R.Cade

Trust me- I agree they are overpriced when new, but when bought used and at a reasonable price, they are good cables. So in this case, I disagree with "never". There are cases where there is a difference, and this is one of them. If you are just philosophically against them, then you can try to find the Official Microsoft HD AV Pack...

The official Microsoft HD adapter and the Monster cable work great. The cheap ones have bad interference, especially on anything above 480p. Believe me, I am typically cheap and I've tried them- they have noticeably bad quality. You do get what you pay for here... However, you can find the good ones cheap enough if you are patient.

That is beautiful!

Just to be clear, this is a homemade box with printed art from the AdventureVision glued (or taped?) to it and some scanned and printed manuals? The edges look kind of rough... If you can get that kind of money for it, then I'm surprised more people aren't doing it better...

Looks like it may be part of the RF modulation, so likely frequency and color subcarrier.

I see you are keeping some stuff, so you are not really purging all the way. You are hedging. I predict you will just start collecting it back up again. Nothing wrong with that, I go through binge and purge also to keep it under control.

Likely one of the caps on that line has broken loose on one side. They are usually kind of large orange candy-looking caps near the cart port.

Yeah if you were going to mod it anyway, you could have gotten one for $100 or less...

There is a guy on eBay, and also a guy on AppleFritter forums that sells them from time to time. I was able to get some white stems to fix my early IIe keyboard once. There is also one particular kind of black stem that fits the white stem keyboard- it's the same other than the color. Basically, the thin, longer "T" stem is available in black or white, the shorter "T" stem in black/brown only, and then the later "cross" stem. I checked my history and remembered it's Steven Buggie that sells them on eBay.

That's what the original cart title screen looks like on my released cartridge. The one linked from Lemon comes from some other version (or copy, who knows). Mayhem- if you have a cart matches the one that says "1983 Atari, 1984 by Atarisoft" you need to dump it. That is not the one on your site...

They've really kept their website up to date since the 2011 launch. However, from the reviews they get, it sounds like good people.

I assume it means you would just plug in joysticks instead of them being integrated, like a regular Junior.

Yes, this mod is generally bad. It's cheap and sometimes works, but usually doesn't look to good. There are better ones out there that are worth the extra money.

I was young in the late 70's/early 80's, but all the older teenagers knew the tricks to powering off/on and kicking the coin doors at just the right time to get credits. I saw it many times and it works, but makes a lot of noise- you could only do it on machines in areas that weren't "patrolled" or had employees there. At that point in time, that was common - machines were everywhere. Astro Fighter - they would kick the hell out of this game and it would give you multiple credits at a time. Pac-Man - this one they would reset it, and would kick it right before or after the end of the crosshatch screen (I forget which). For some reason, if they timed it right it would give a credit. Galaxian - same as Pac-Man. Turbo - I remember they would kick the hell out of the side of the sit-down version of this and it gave credits. Many Pinball machines from the late 70's would give you credit if you kicked them hard. At a skating rink, that's really easy since you have heavy skates on. I always heard rumors about quarters with strings, or using a flattened red Dairy Queen straw. I never saw any of those work... So many abused machines....

That's a really good price...

You probably do need to change the firmware to the PAL version. The 2600 will always look wrong on most LCD's. The CRT description is hard to say because everything disappears in Defender all the time normally.

The XBOX is much faster at getting from game to game (if you're OCD), much easier to plug in a bunch of controllers and go, and almost all the old-school emulation is covered. It's like having one giant multi-cart. I wish it did 240p, but it won't. I tried the Wii for that and RetroArch is a nightmare... never again. My experience with the RPi (I tried with the original, and the 2) was that it took a lot of time to set up, wouldn't load ROMs from my network shares, getting in and out of games was slow, and my controllers were hard to configure (and the config got lost or was not working in every emulator). Finally, my SD card corrupted itself and I had to start all over. Others have a better experience... I prefer XBOX, personally, but agree the hardware *is* getting old and unreliable- I have had to do repairs. Drives go bad, motherboards go bad, etc. However, I have 4-5 spares I paid from $0-20 for sitting in the closet with the clock caps removed...

That's it, just the Apple 1. Even early Apple II's don't fetch quite that much, I don't think.

It'll go way higher than $5k- you were dreaming. Even non-working. Makes no sense to me either, but people are crazy and have money apparently.

Also, the time is more toward the center of the screen- it's not on the edge. You'd have a cut off quite a lot...

I have seen a 286-based all-in-one with the keyboard and drive like this in the last couple of years. Someone brought one to an AHCS meeting in Atlanta. I don't recall what brand it was... it was likely some kind of point-of-sale PC.

They make new ones like this- generally low-power Bay Trail (at the moment) with 2G RAM. All over eBay for $100-120. They are not fast enough to be satisfyingly useful...

I tried exactly what you said with the image in the original post, with the name BAKER. In 800 OS-B and 800XL modes, it works fine. I can save as that name, and reload. No corruption.

I kept a few versions where landmark changes occurred... From memory: 0.106 because after that, the video rendering was improved/slowed down so it doesn't work on older hardware well. 0.131 because after that, all cocktail flipping was broken. I don't know if that was ever fixed. I have a MAMEd cocktail machine... I also have 0.35, 0.79 and 0.84 but now I forget why... maybe someone from the old days can remind me.

It's not possible to make it anything close to the real thing without an XY monitor. Without that you are just playing the games themselves, which aren't that great outside the real thing.