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HeadcolorsTV

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About HeadcolorsTV

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    Star Raider
  • Birthday 05/08/1982

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    Cannot be classified as a planet
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    Male
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    Buffalo, NY
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    Retrogaming, video production & editing, console repair, website development, graphic design/art, cooking
  1. THAT WAS IT. 😃😃😃 Thank you so much for that tip. I just ran through an entire game of TM2 with 0 problems. (BTW: a Happ bat top stick feels really good with that game.) OshPark, here I come. ~ Fin. ~
  2. Lo and behold: I was actually onto something here. Connecting the main rails to both the outer and other center rails, then connecting the 5V rails to each other at both ends worked, BUT ONLY if I only connect voltage at the main and outer rails at both ends, while leaving the two center voltage rails connected only at the far end (see updated breadboard diagram). Again, the controller went from a very bad/flickering ATT to a perfectly working controller; was able to play TM2 for about 20 minutes straight without a problem. I'm not quite able to put my finger on it, but might it be something involving the relationship between the 5V going to U6/pin20 and the 5V going to C1?
  3. I only have the pull-ups and the "missing pulse detector" on the second half, so I thought it was ok to get the 5v from the originating bus; I think I connected the center ground rails because I was ruling out a fairy rail at some point. Gotta love these breadboards.... Would this be the cause? Am I overloading the two voltage rails? That R1 was a weird part of the issue I was having. Before discovering my odd "solution" (and therefore with the two voltage rails still connected), I noticed while fiddling with R1, the purple cursor returned in a weak, flickering way when my fingers were touching both leads. I'm gonna try connecting the center rails, as well as the "bad" rail, and form a closed loop on the other sides of each. I get the feeling that I'm not getting enough juice to every component and the circuit is prioritizing.
  4. Okay, so I got it working! ...and I'm still not 100% sure why, exactly. I just gave myself a crash-course in Fritzing so that I can post a breadboard illustration of how I have it set up. Three things: I was a dummy and swapped R1 (22K) with a 1K, just to see if it made a difference, but forgot to swap it back to the 22K. Once I did that, I saw the thing I'd been looking for: that beautiful purple arrow cursor in the PS1 console menu. It turns out that NFG's method of starting at U1/G and ending with the Square button at U5/SER was CORRECT. Go figure. The problem was, the purple cursor would often flicker away or disappear completely. I spent a good two hours trying to find where the weak connection was, nearly at the pulling-my-hair-out point. I tried about three different diodes and five different 22k resistors. I touched and lightly wiggled nearly every wire. It got to the point where I was pretty sure it was one of the buses. And then it happened: I pulled the bus-to-bus 5V wire out to disconnect the 5V bus on the ABCD side (see illustration), happened to look up to see a solid purple cursor. Confused, I started testing the buttons. Flawless. Started a game of Twisted Metal 2. Everything worked perfectly. So I'm sure this makes sense, I just don't know exactly how (maybe someone can enlighten me?). In any event, assuming this isn't a case of me lucking into a working circuit by getting something very wrong, I have a working controller. If it's good, then great. I can throw the schematic into KiCAD, get this fabbed, and give 'er a whirl. THANK YOU, everyone who helped out. I feel like I had a tidal wave of knowledge crash into my brain these past two weeks, and I somehow retained all of it.
  5. Welp, I'm stumped. Testing the logic on U1-U3, everything's fine. This is with A1 starting at U1/H or U1/G. I get: 1111 1111 HGFE DCBA 1000 0010 HGFE DCBA 0101 1010 HGFE DCBA (1 = LED goes from ON to OFF) (0 = LED stays ON) And still, the controller isn't recognized. I swapped U6 with a new one, same result. I tried new breadboards, same result. The problem must be somewhere in my understanding of the U6 schematic. Can anyone point out where I'm going wrong? One of the gates (pin 1 (GND) or 19 (ATT))? Is my data-out on U1 pin 9 connected to the correct pin on U6 (pin 6)? After that, I feel like I've run out of questions to ask.
  6. Trying this method, let me make sure I got this right: When it's hooked up as described, the LED lights up. LED STAYS lit = 0 ? LED turns OFF = 1 ? In any event, I'm trying different breadboards. Not really expecting much from these, as they're also Elegoo, just unopened. I'll probably order better quality ones this coming weekend. The ones I was using were so touchy that even getting my fingertip near parts of the circuit caused the LED to go out, and all the wires I'm using are insulated. 😕
  7. So A1-A8, B1-B8, etc. should each go from A to H, as opposed to H-to-A as NFG put in his schematic? If so...yes I've tried that too. 😂 I'll have to pull an LED out of my scrap collection and give your logic test a go. Otherwise I'll have to wait for a NOR gate chip to come in from Mouser, and I really don't feel like spending $7.99 for shipping on just one chip. Thanks very much for the tips! I'll let you know of my results in a little while.
  8. Ah yes, R1 is 22K. I overlooked that one in the schematic and forgot to label it properly. I also noticed in NFG's schematic that his R2 is labeled "1K0". Not sure if that was a typo, I tried a 10K resistor. As expected, this didn't fix the problem. My breadboards are fairly new, but I'm never buying Elegoo brand again. "Amazon's Choice"...my ****. On a previous controller circuit I was testing, one of the voltage/ground rail pairs was shorting into itself right out of the box. Turned on my console and heard such a pleasant feedback hum as a result. 😡 Do you (or does anyone here) have a recommendation for an "old reliable" breadboard they'd swear by?
  9. Yes, I did notice my schematic has the binary for U2 & U3 incorrect. I have corrected it to be: [U2] 0100 0001 (LHLLLLLH) [U3] 0101 1010 (LHLHHLHL) Still the same result, using both Stephen's and NFG's starting points (U1/G vs U1/H). Not even a remote sign of it working. I've tested all my breadboard rails and other important points, and everything tests fine. I even tried swapping in a fresh HC240. I really want to get this to work, and I know it must have, because it did in 1998.
  10. So far, it looks like neither of you were. 😕 I was able to finish putting the schematic together (pic attached), thanks to everyone's help. However, it's still not working. No response from any button input whatsoever. The only thing that gave me anything was when I was fooling around on the breadboard, trying different connections, and removed the connection from pin 17 of U6 (the 74HC240). Playing Twisted Metal 2, in the title menu, the cursor just started endlessly going to the right (about 4 times per second). Reconnecting doesn't stop it, but oddly enough, when I do that and then insert CMD IN between pins 16 and 17, the cursor movement will stop at random for about half a second, and button presses (any of them) will sometimes freeze the cursor; holding the button will not keep it still, however, and no button will advance me past the title menu. And so I tried re-doing the connections for the 5 sets of A-H, based on what you advised, Stephen. Zip. Zilch. Can't even get the pin 17 disconnection to glitch the inputs. I also tried tying A-H of U1 all low. Still nothing. By the way: is pulling up the highs in U1 - U3 even necessary, or should I just go directly to 5V on the highs? OR should I also be pulling down the lows with resistors?
  11. Because I'm actually not purchasing them; I'm selling them. Arcade controllers, to be specific. As NFG points out in his abridged schematic and description: "NB E8 is SER IN on the last HC165". And this is a first-model PlayStation1 (digital) controller. DualShock sticks didn't even exist at launch, let alone L3 & R3 buttons. And if microcontrollers were a cost-effective alternative, I'd probably be going with those. But for now, I'll stick with the "dum" design. Thank you. I've reached out to other people, and have gotten the same answer, so that's what I'll go with for now. Once the ICs come in the mail, I'll slap it all on the breadboards.
  12. Which is why it took me a good bit of time to decipher what he was drawing up. I'm posting my version of the schematic. Other than H2 (COMMAND) and the NC pins of the 74HC165 chips, I'm pretty confident that this is what he was going for (I had to decipher what he meant by "1/4A, 2/4A, 1/4B," etc., and also read up on the data protocol to figure out that A-H of each HC165 === Bit 7 to Bit 0, and the first HC165 === Byte 01, etc.). Nope. :) I want to design a brand new PCB for brand new PSX controllers that'll work on Playstation 1s.
  13. Maybe someone can help me solve a few small problems I'm coming across. I'm following this schematic/description -- https://gamesx.com/controldata/psxcont/psxcont.htm#CIRCUIT I think I figured it out...mostly. He leaves a lot to be deciphered, lol. I'm drawing up a schematic in KiCAD right now, and I only have a few questions: 1. The DATA pin of the controller plug connects to SER OUT, correct? 2. Where does the COMMAND pin of the controller plug connect to? I must've re-read the entire page 15 times and still can't decipher where COMMAND goes. 3. Are the 74HC165 pins not associated with buttons (A1-A8, B1-B8, etc.) left with no connection? Or do they share a connection? COMMAND, maybe? Thanks in advance!
  14. My first question: Have any 3rd party manufacturers (other than Retrobit recently--I'll get to that in a bit) ever succeeded in making a version of the six-button Genesis controller that works 100% like the OEM (in other words, Mode button functionality is exactly identical to Sega's, and therefore compatibility is the same)? My second question: If so, do any of those controllers use an alternative to Sega's proprietary 315-5638 IC chip? I know Retrobit has succeeded in this with their 2019 Sega-licensed controllers, but looking inside of those, you'll see the the ol' "blob" integrated circuit. Not much help or information there. I'm asking these questions because I want to be able to purchase legitimate alternative ICs for production of my own third-party Sega controllers. I see the 315-5638 available on some components websites, but (1) I'm not sure I trust them and (2) they list quantities but not prices (without filling out a quote form). Plus: even if I were able to purchase the Sega ICs, wouldn't I be unable, legally, to sell controllers that utilize them without official licensing? Retrobit has the licensing and even they don't use them. Any help on this is much appreciated. Thanks in advance!
  15. UPDATE: (TL;DR: I cut the 12v rail and the system works absolutely perfect.) I get the ColUSB. I overspend to get a USB-C charge cable. I get home, plug it all in.... The noise is back. The faint snow is back. "What. The. ****," I says. Now I'm testing EVERYWHERE. DC voltage, AC voltage. Everything checks. But NOW, I'm noticing that the hum gets louder when the console-ground-to-mod-ground wire is too close to certain things, or if the audio wire is near any part of the console's common ground (shielding included). I can't figure it out at all. And then I remember, "With only the 5v rails, it worked perfectly. Welp, I might as well." And with that, I straight-up snipped the red 12v wire coming from the console-side connector. And sure enough, the absolute best picture and sound I could ask for--yes, even better than when I had it working before. So there was some kind of interference, apparently, messing with the signal to the mod, caused by something in the 12v circuit. Short? Bad juju somewhere in the RF modulator? For now, I'm going to leave it like this. I don't see myself ever getting Expansion Module 1 or the SGM, as this is just about playing original CV games on my CRT. I have a 2600, I can get a Phoenix for my newer TV; you get the picture (no pun intended). *ahem*... I MEAN, WHAT CAN GO WRONG, AMIRITE?
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