RawSteelUT
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Posts posted by RawSteelUT
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Been playin' them myself. Without a paddle or trackball for the Xbone, playing Pong or Super Breakout is a bit of a chore.
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Ugh, tried playing Cruisin' USA on MAMEUI64. Steering is a serious pain in the ass. WAY too sensitive and not sure how to fix this in the ANALOG CONTROLS tab. Will work on it.
Yeah, racing games are some of the hardest to play. Even if you have a modern pad, it's very sensitive to even the slightest movement.
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I usually use a stick with a Vewlix layout for my MAME play, and one thing I've gotten pretty good with when playing Ikari Warriors and Guerilla is using 1P and 2P to rotate the character left and right respectively, while 1K and 2K handles the gun and grenades. It's a bit fiddly, but it works well enough absent a rotary joystick.
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Well, it's an arcade game. They're meant to be quarter-munchers.
I'm assuming you're using MAME, yeah? You playing on a pad? Looks like the game requires turning on a moment's notice, so maybe a stick would work better for ya?
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Apologies, it was just soo funny! I couldn't believe you were seriously asking $300 for that. More power to you and best of luck selling it!
Well, I had to pay around $50 for the case, $140 between the board, the joystick and the buttons (with Cherry switches), I'm assuming ~$50 for shipping the thing, and I'd like to at least make SOME money off it.
If I can't sell it, I can't sell it, but I'm not gonna sell it at a loss.
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This is crazy...but I like it. Is there space for some cigars in there?
I had to gut the humidor part to make room for the joystick and the buttons. You could probably fit a few cigs in there, but they'd probably get in the way of the board and cables.
Looooooool
good one .....oh wait your serious.Thanks for being so constructive. TOTALLY not a troll comment.
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Listed here is an excellent joystick fashioned from a gorgeously crafted humidor from Cuban Crafters, with all Industrias Lorenzo (superior version of Happ) parts. It comes with eight PSL-CV action buttons and three PSL auxiliary buttons, one of which is a player imprint buttons, along with an IL Euro Joystick. The micro-switches? Nothing but Cherry, for long lasting performance.
The brains of the board is a PS3/PS4 Fighting Board from Brook, which allows you to use this bad boy on the PS4 without any time-out worries. Not only that, but I've put in a 10-foot cable, so you can play as far from the TV as you'd like.
Works on PS3, PS4, and Windows PC. It shows up on the Windows PC as an Xbox 360 Controller for Windows. Though untested, it should work with Linux when using the appropriate drivers.
Price is $300, which includes shipping and handling inside the mainland US.
Also comes with a pair of brass keys to lock the case. No need to worry about the little ones tugging on cables while they're playing MAME or Atari Vault.
PM me now if you're interested.
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I'm sold on the Happ plunger style buttons with the Zippy soft touch switches. If you buy them from Groovy Game Gear, they will come with the Zippy switches as stock. Other places will sell you the e-switches then you'll have to buy Cherries or Zippys separate. The e-switches Happ sells aren't junk but they're not great either. I can achieve much higher turbo rates with the Zippy switches.
I put Cherries in my A7800 stick, but the Alan 9000 I picked up uses Happ's e-switches from what I can tell.. Might pick up some Zippies, see how they feel.
Actually, now that I'm here, where can I pick up a nylon actuator and the piece that the actuator rides on? I'm NOT a fan of the black plastic Happ uses. You can hear it grinding when you use it.
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Seimitsu and Sanwa buttons are made for 30mm standard, though some joysticks will use smaller 24mm buttons for start and select, so as to save space. Also, there's no spring mechanism in the button - the plunger rests right on the microswitch, which is why it takes so little force to actuate. They're good enough, and I can see why they're preferred for fighting games, but I find if I rest my fingers on the buttons, I accidentally push the switch. Happ/IL are still comfortable, but there's not a lot of potential for accidental button presses.
Anyway, while my stick has been amazing, I ran into a single issue - the felt pad at the bottom of the box slides around slightly when I'm using the stick. In case anyone else is having the issue, I thought I'd show you all how I solved it for cheap. The Everbilt 1 1/2 inch anti-skid pads are great; they stick easy and can handle normal play. And since they come in packs of 8, that's enough for two joysticks. Good thing, since I also had an Alan 9000 for my Master System that also had the same problem. -
I might give drilling my own holes on a stick a go. I've never had the steadiest hand in the world, so for this first project (and given how pricy the box was!), I wanted someone who was a bit more capable than I to do the work.
But yeah, cigar boxes are great for this sort of thing. Just make sure you get one that's big enough for your joystick. Having never seen an IL stick outside its cabinet before this, I was quite shocked at how much clearance it needed.
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And here she is, my baby!
For all the headaches wiring gave me, I had a couple of lucky breaks in sourcing the case. I live close to a cigar shop, so I was able to source a humidor for around $40. While I had to get the bits (particularly the hole saws for the shaft and buttons), my brother had a drill and was willing to drill the holes for me. He did a pretty good job, methinks.
For the stick and buttons, I went with an IL Eurojoystick, paired with IL concave push-buttons (short stem) with Cherry micro-switches. It's an absolute pleasure to use, and I'm just over the moon with joy that I have such an awesome stick! All that's left is to put a lock of some sort at the front to keep any kids that I may have over from getting to the cables, and sourcing an Atari 7800 sticker for decoration.Might do an NES stick one day, though I imagine that takes a lot more work. I'd try for a 5200 stick, but I don't think I'll ever find a humidor that big. For now, though, I'm just going to enjoy my new 7800 stick.
Once again, thank you ALL for having been SO helpful!
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Getting your system modded to accept another power supply is also something worth looking into. Before I discovered Best, I got a 7800 without a power supply (as well as a busted Pro-Line, which led me on my odyssey to build my 7800 stick). I just sent my system to Rapid Fire Gaming and had the guy mod it to take a Genesis 1 power supply. Bit of an extreme solution, but it works like a charm.
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Check your Difficulty Switch settings on the console.
You are fucking BEAUTIFUL, Trebor!
WIth the switches both on left, the left button fires blaster rounds while the right fires the bombs. It's alive! Works like a dream!
Thank you ALL for helping me out on building this bad boy. It's so hard to find good Atari 7800 controllers, so being able to make one is a HUGE deal. Seriously, everyone on this forum has been such a great help!
I'll be sure to post a screenshot later in the day. But seriously guys, thank you all for your help! Love you all!
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Well, I put the thing together, but I seem to be having issues. It works fine in 2600 mode, but when I try to play 7800 Xevious, both buttons fire both the bullets and the bomb. Is that normal for Xevious 7800? I've played it on emulator and they were on distinct fire buttons (though the bomb was on left and the bullets were on right), but the instructions suggest it's a one-button game. I'm looking at other games that are more obviously multi-button, but in the meantime, is that normal for Xevious 7800?
EDIT: It seems Xevious is single-button on RetroArch, and I now know that BizHawk isn't to be trusted for Atari 7800. Now I need another game to check it out. I'm looking at Ikari Warriors, but are there any other games I should look at to try the multi-button feature?
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Well, at least I've got the way it needs to be wired. Now I just have two more questions.
The resistors seem to have some distinctive markings. Does it matter which side of the resistor is on the active wire versus which one is on ground?Also, is there any place I can find a good diagram with screwholes for the layout? I looked at Slagcoin, and theirs doesn't have screwholes for the mounting plate. I'm using an IL Eurojoystick, if that helps.
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OK, so the joystick directions are how you'd normally attach them to the microswitches (with the active pin on the NO prong and ground on the outer prong, then for the buttons, you put the common 6 pin on the NO prong of both fire buttons' microswitches, then link the ground and wire for pins 5 and 9 each, each getting their own 620ohm resistor between the ground and the main wire, in the outer prong? Am I understanding this right?
And yeah, I realize my diagram isn't exactly great. Just short-handing it so as to try and make sense!
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That's funny, I just posted now, but it didn't show up.
Anyway, I'm using this switch here for each of the buttons. Normally, the outer prong is where you put the ground. So in this case, I can use the outer and the NO pins in any order, and mix ground with the the fire button cables, each with their own resistor on their ground cable?
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I'm not entirely sure I've got this right. I'm using western buttons/microswitches, so I wanna make absolutely sure. Pin 9 and 5 go into the ground port, with the wire from pin 8 mixing into those wires, and then pin 6 goes into the actual circuit port of the microswitch?
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Left button between pin 6 and 9
Right button between pin 6 and 5
620 ohm resistor between pin 9 and 8
620 ohm resistor between pin 5 and 8OK, so put each 620 ohm resistor in the ground wire for each of the buttons, and then mix the pin 6 wire into the wires for pin 5 and 9 each? Like this picture?
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OK, so does the ground for each button get their own 620ohm resistor, or are they sharing one between the two buttons? Also, that diagram says that pin 6 is both, but pin 5 is right. I'm assuming that's just for people who want to use both buttons in 2600 mode?
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Hey everyone!
I'm looking to put together an Atari 7800 stick (well, I wanna use it for my 130XE, but also for my 7800). I have, however, been having trouble finding a good, step-by-step guide for it, which is odd, since I've found a pretty good one for 2600 controller DIY. Anyone here know a link to a good step-by-step guide and what I'll need (aside from the obvious stick, buttons and button wires) to get this job done? Thanks for you help!
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Japanese games on a USA 360 console?
in Microsoft Xbox 360
Posted
Whether a game on the Xbox 360 is region-locked or not is down to publisher choice, as was the case with the PS3 (though in the PS3's case, it was only ever used for Persona 3 Arena, since Sony tended to discourage the practice). The Xbox 360 had more region locked games, probably due to MS not giving a crap either way.