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citrus3000psi

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About citrus3000psi

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    Space Invader
  • Birthday 11/18/1983

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    Indianapolis

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  1. So its been awhile since I've been active on this topic. I was hoping to get to working mod at the first of the year, can't believe its August already. Better late the never I suppose. I currently have a working RGB mod with the shift fix included. I'm using a Atmel CPLD to shift the syncs. This chip was chosen as its 5V tolerant. Some interesting things I've noticed (At least with the VP536a) that might help people with existing mods, the shift is more severe when cold booting up in 480i. If the console cold boots up in 240p (Thats to @Taijigamer for figuring this out) the shift isn't nearly as bad. Its unclear to me why this is, but has to be something the video DAC is doing. I plan on supporting all encoders expect the the later Anvil models. I've chosen to tap directly into the CLIO. These means one board/flex cable for all consoles. Features of this firmware include: Center aligned CSYNC output 240p/480i switching (Composite/S-Video will not work properly while in 240p mode with BT9101 encoders) 240p never triggers on the odd field when flipping the switch from 480i to 240p There likely will be multiple firmware versions. I could fit everything into one CPLD with the ATF1508 but this is more than double the cost of ATF1504. For now this is the route I've chosen. I am also experimenting with underclocking the console for those 240p games that go to fast. I just bought some parts to experiment with, will know more soon if this is possible.
  2. I just updated the oshpark link with sizes and some digikey part numbers for the not so obvious parts. https://oshpark.com/projects/ogorMaoU
  3. Great let me know, if it works for you
  4. The pots have been different for all the boards I've done. I think its related to power supplies etc for each console. @mobiusstriptech, on the latest revision on my oshpark, there is a jumper so you can bypass the pot and drop a straight resistor in.
  5. I've never tried it in a Pal System. The PAL TMS9929 has color bursts which should make my board not supported. However I have design a PAL variant based off this: https://hackaday.io/project/13056-tms9929a-rgb-and-component-adapter This board is 100% untested: https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/ogorMaoU
  6. I've done some basic research and maybe will have pure digital solution at some point on the xbox. But I plan to tackle the ps2 first. Just got an ADV7513 dev board to play with.
  7. This part should work from digikey as a replacement for now: P3V501CT-ND
  8. 100% agree with you. That's how I handle a lot of my projects. The discovery board is too clumsy for me. So I'll wait. I don't mind PCB assembly etc. Great project BTW.
  9. Very cool project. Do you plan to release the PCB design files soon? I'm not wanting to resell, just like to build one for myself.
  10. I don't sell the plugs. Its just too tedious and time consuming to pin the connector. There was a member on ebay that was selling the GCplug: https://www.ebay.com/itm/HDMI-adapter-GCPlug-with-HDMI-cable-for-Gamecube-DOL-001-GC-Video/263318526076 Its listed as sold out when this is posted, but I'm sure they will make more. I'm not trying to sway people from buy the Zelda, but just wanted people to know that its open source project, and you can build your own with the appropriate skill set. I do sell an internal solution (Kit is 120, installed is 150) , that offers both RGB/Component out of the multiout and HDMI through the backside. The digital port stays in tack, so you can also still use official cables if you choose to.
  11. Just wanted to put this out there that the Zelda's New V3, is my PCB and collingal's plug. My board is open source. I have no connection to zelda, and honestly don't like the guy. As it took a lot of effort from us to finally give us credit on his website. If you'd like to build your own, info is on my oshpark: https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/yROQl0A7
  12. I have modded two consoles with Tim's board (but it should work with borti's too) and UltraHDMI. You have to keep the clock signal on the RGB board short as possible. I mounted the RGB board on the bottom:
  13. I don't know of any machines built in, but It would be pretty easy to add them in on the controller side. They are referred to as TVS Diodes.
  14. Good to know. Right now, I'm in waist deep of my Gamecube kits. So once that wraps up, I may side step to this. Also what part was out of stock at digi?
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