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seastalker

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About seastalker

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  1. I'm getting my drive ready for my MODE and am going through old files. I'm replacing my Darksoft copies with REDUMP ones. I had a game on a list that I doubt actually exists. It is called with this identifier number: 145 - NHL Break-Away '96 Am I correct in thinking the author of the list (Darksoft maybe?) intended "NHL Powerplay '96" instead? I cannot find the listed title online.
  2. Source: http://www.racketboy.com/retro/dreamcast-keyboard-mouse-be-prepared Quoting: Phantasy Star Online was a killer app for the keyboard when you could chat with other players when the servers used to be a-blazin’. Worms World Party added keyboard support for those people like me who are used to the PC controls but were disappointed with the limited possibilities in the Dreamcast version of Worms Armedeggon. Starlancer was a PC game first, so I imagine the controls can map nicely in that game, but I haven’t tried it. Virtual On: OT also supports it, but I haven’t a clue how that would work out. And finally, I have see keyboard support a bunch of fighting games, but I haven’t really figured out how that is beneficial.
  3. I missed it before but now see that Supergrafx support will come to the Pocket as well. I never had a Turbo Express and don't remember it having that ability. The pocket is the one I'm most interested in. CD games on Mister. I'm glad Kevtris made this duo though for those with large CD collections. I only have a handful of Hu-cards. I wonder if this will affect the TerraOnion option considering this console is HDMI. Any more or less than Mister? I'm just glad there are OPTIONS for everyone.
  4. If Pocket now will support PCE/TG16 hucards, then a jailbreak will likely do the same. Probably no CD support on jailbreak or why have the main duo system? SGX on pocket would be nice in a jailbreak as it is 5-7 games depending on one's outlook of the Darius(?) games. Interesting they are doing a CD based system. Maybe down the road a PSX or multi CD core system will develop. I think I'm good with the Mister core personally. P.s. For those that plan one.. ugh, limited quantities
  5. I hope I'm not completely sidetracking the OP. I was going to start a thread about flight sticks in general and ask what systems and retro games people suggest to use them on. If you aren't playing complicated flight simulators, do you still like a classic Thrustmaster or Sidewinder for examples that have USB on emulators or MiSTer to play much simpler games like Space Harrier or After Burner? Maybe all the extra unused buttons are still exciting aesthetically to make you feel you are really in a cockpit? I have several such joysticks in the game closet and wondered if they would be fun for anything retro.
  6. newtmonkey, are you able to test out any usb keyboard on it for games like Typing of the Dead? Thanks.
  7. MODE's support for playstation really adds value to the device. It is a shame they couldn't design it to provide some way to swap between systems without opening the case and stressing flex cables, etc. The MODE a two part unit would be interesting like an installed base inside the system and a swap-able top portion. Still, multi-system functionality is fantastic and will be great if other systems get supported. I haven't checked the case size and fit, but 3DO and CD-I could use some love.
  8. I just re-capped my Sega Saturn. Picture is crisp and sharp as ever but the sound is very quiet. I thought it MIGHT be the adapter -> Sega Genesis HD retrovision cable but ruled that out by using my svideo cable and noticed the same thing. I will have to open my saturn again to study the solder joints. Anyone know where I should focus on? When I put it back together the first time, I think the power supply was touching metal the plastic guard was supposed to be protecting from and I shut it off immediately when I saw a black screen and smelled burnt plastic. The system now works great after readjusting except for the very low volume sound. I have to turn the sound on the tv WAY loud and hear buzzing so hope to correct this.
  9. I have a Sega Saturn model 2 and have had a heck of a time trying to deal with the open/closed tray sensitivity. I've opened the Saturn's case, fine tuned the tray open/shut switch that triggers the on screen message, and even de-soldered and re-soldered the switch back in place. I have fine tuned and pitch perfect bent the metal as if I am trying to pick up a 1970s 'naughty' channel with precision direction of components. I cleaned and sanded the little copper strips in the switch and still had hit and miss functionality. Then I looked at the design of this tiny switch and thought it was crap. I love Sega, but this switch is the pits. I took the transparent plastic tip off of it so the nano-milometer of YES/NO connectivity had a much wider range and presto! It finally works as it should! Ironically, I have a MODE on the way and won't need the functionality anymore but still, I thought this fix may help others with this really annoying problem on the Sega Saturn.
  10. I would love to buy a new XL board. I haven't looked in a while if the layouts differ, but it would be cool if one board could fit in a 600, 800 and 1200. Even if just one computer, I'd get it, especially if the mods and upgrades are built in.
  11. Anyone have "pot" or pushy buttons maintenance advice on Commodore monitors?
  12. I ordered a MODE for the Saturn and am waiting on it. I am very excited about the disc lid bypass (I de-soldered my finicky one to clean and rework but end result hasn't occurred yet). I just re-capped my Saturn and was looking into currently available mods but reading the online MODE manual seems to have most available mods covered: It seems the features of a modchip, Switch between 50/60Hz Mod (advanced MODE instructions) and Region-free features are all covered. MAYBE it will have game save in a future firmware but I have a 4M cart which should probably be fine. I have a Retrovision adapter and Genesis 2 cable for Component output. I guess all that's left (besides game saves) for the Saturn is an HDMI mod.
  13. By saying "Just use emulation," is that not the same pigeonhole in reverse? As in "emulation, no exceptions". Feel free to use emulation if you wish, as long as you are playing and having fun. I rarely lug consoles to friend's houses... emulation is great, especially for arcade games.
  14. Thank you Stephen, that is a wonderful counterpoint. If you found new old stock of an Atari 8 bit computer, etc. Then you would KNOW it hasn't been used in 30+ years. Would you personally recap it then? When buying used devices with unknown history of usage say at a thrift store, or on ebay, it can be tricky to know how long they sat, if in a humid garage, etc. I have gear from long ago working fine as well which is why I love sharing these ideas. My used Panasonic 3DO I bought online 'worked' but had VERY low audio. After replacing all Electrolytic caps from a cap kit, the sound issue was completely fixed. The picture seemed a bit brighter and crisper if memory serves. I will have to look into the idea that reflow vs recap provides the same results in some cases. I suppose the concern is more about caps bulging and leaking and thus corroding PCBs rather than if a device works as a whole or not. I looked and felt the tops of many caps before and never even saw a burst one until this year. A Dell computer from around 2007 had two that looked like toasted marshmallows on the tops of them before removing them. It doesn't seem right that some 2007 capacitors should be outlived by many that live still in Atari 2600s. Other than the known to leak clock capacitor, has anyone had caps go bad in an OG XBox yet be it psu or mainboard?
  15. So I had a pleasant result on de-rusting metal shields and casing See the after, then the before. This is the neckboard RF shield and or case on a Commodore 1084-D1 Daewoo Monitor. I did nothing but soak them in muratic acid (pool supply or home repair store). I then neutralized the acid with lots of baking soda. I then did a neutralizing rinse with baking soda water, dried and wiped with a clean cloth with isoprop, then treated immediately with WD40. I'm using vinegar or lemon juice to scrub rust off certain points where rf shields rusted on the board. I've then recapped the whole motherboard and now am looking at the faulty power switch and knobs. I have a new power switch on the way and desoldered the current one to repair it and or learn from it. I am thinking of desoldering all the pots and buttons to service them. The springs could use some WD40 soaking if nothing else if not replacement. Are the values on the pots of all front and rear access knobs on a 1084 monitor the same value or do I really need to memorize which came from where if removing from the board for servicing? Any places to source new Commodore monitor new pots, switches and knobs? POWER BUTTON EASY "FIX": This is a great "hack"(?) for those with a monitor with a non working power button that don't solder. I've seen "always on" vintage monitors (especially Commodore) where the power switch has gone bad. Many won't risk opening a CRT monitor for LEGIT fear of death from poking around. For others, replacement parts are pricey. Here is something you may want to do even with a WORKING switch. Thrift stores will have vintage 80s/90s power switch panels that CRT monitors sat on top of. The button sizes vary, but look here as an example: This is a great external OFF/ON bypass switch option for vintage monitors with bad/broken power switches that you had to keep in an "always on" position.
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