seastalker

FINALLY got my problem 800xl board running... EXCEPT it only works with the BASIC IC chip out. Tried two spare ones and both result in a black screen. Take it out and self test loads. Tried with holding option too. This board has been nearly a year off and on to get working so any ideas to finish would be wonderful! Thank you! Process: checked all chips and put in good ones if needed. Even installed a new power switch and SORTED THE COLOR with the NTSC color adjustment knob on the board. WHOOOHOO!

Update 2: no solder bridging the din connectors. Tested with alt video cables in case mine was bad; standard composite yellow rca jack on Dell monitor shows in b&w AND flashes in and out like the monitor is trying to retain the signal. I also tried my scart cable to upscaler - HDMI out on LED TV. Black and white with fuzzier video and some hint of color. Tried even switching out the NTSC to PAL ANTIC and got sharper B&W. ReaLLY confused...

I should add that before proceeding, I "undid" the easy 3 step S-video hack (never had a C-56, removed underneath wire, and replaced C-54): Pix provided: I rewired to match the recent posts, and added a 5v power wire to the capacitor+ near the power jack. I'm still in B+W and really think the culprit was when I touched and untouched the right leg of C-56 to its solder joint while plugged in weeks ago. The color was gone with leg removed and there when put back... temporarily (even the replacement doesn't work. If I shorted something, is it fixable? Could the actual DIN be bad? I'm also looking to see if extra solder got between pin 5 (chroma) and Pin 3 (Audio) and if bridged that would create the b+w. [EDIT- I did take the pix BEFORE cleaning up the flux paste - don't worry!]

@iesposta: Thank you GREATLY for the pictures, info, and especially your effort to help, but respectfully, I think I'd do more damage than good if I changed to configure your way. You seem to have the opposite legs of the chroma luma barrels lifted, and I cant make out where your red/white wire connects to/from. My chroma (socket 3 on a plug in) is wired fine to the top side on the Din 5. I HAD a wire under the board based on the now outdated easy 3 step Faicuai method. I have two separate issues: making sure UAV is installed properly and then sorting the color that left me after I messed with lifting a leg of C54.

Yeah I saw the links which were mostly to pics. I didn't know if there was a step by step, but I THINK I got it: I installed 5 wires to all the places in the pix. I removed my rf box and 2-3 channel switch a while back, so my ground is the bottom metal of where the rf box WAS. Is that it though? In one picture link I see a wire on the bottom of the board, but no one else seems to list that step on youtube or in the other links. I got this for better video and to hopefully fix my chroma (I'm in black and white after lifting right leg of C54 [since removing it altogether]) but I'm still in b&w. It's no fault of Bryan's device but I do hope someone can help get my board back to color with chroma and luma.

I'm searching- anyone have an install guide for a 800xl?

I'd love a brand new 2017+ drop-in replacement board (think C-64 reloaded) for my 800xl that is more energy efficient, expandable, S-video, etc. If anyone makes one, please PM me about the interest and cost of making an extra one for me.

Ok- well the last two posts (edit: now three- FJC beat me to it) are a great start! From those it seems the U1MB is the winner in the availability and feature department. If the Antonia supports SOME of the functionality as the U1MB but not all, then determining the best choice to get (or hold out for when available again) is to determine what features Antonia has that U1MB does NOT have. Also, the 3MB difference may be obvious, but then looking at present day available software that takes advantage of this would be helpful. Not claiming to know: It may be that the U1MB is compatible with all software pre-year 2014 (arbitrary year from thin air) while the Antonia can play new demos/games designed for the extra 3MB RAM since then. If what is available is just a port of a game and a hi res demo pic of Angelina Jolie, I'd go for the U1MB. Again, just an example.

Anyone have a good comparison of the Ultimate 1MB vs Antonia 4MB? If not knowing memory standard differences, most noobs likely would say "4 is more than 1" which means "better" then when looking deeper, see that Antonia is newer and confirm in their mind then Antonia is the latest and greatest; This conclusion would imply the Ultimate 1MB USED to be the best but is made moot by the Antonia board... an unfair assumption. A comparison at the start of the thread could correct this misconception and a "Which upgrade is best for me" section could advise the best upgrade depending on usage.

Thanks for the valuable info on a board being able to output both at the same time. I should have also specified in my question - is there room on the board for plug in models or would the hardware have an overlap of shared space preventing this? A solution likely would be to get the UAV that can be installed anywhere inside but still good to know. Thanks!

It may seem redundant, but I always like to know what is POSSIBLE. Anyone have both a SOPHIA AND one of BRYAN's UAV boards? They install in separate locations, so is it possible to have BOTH installed if you wish to move your system between monitors where one's best is S-Video and the other has RGB?

Hey Bryan! Please check PM. Need ordering info. Please Please! I wish to join the SUPER CLEAN and BRIGHT club!! :)

Although it may be heresy, the internal width of a standard Commodore 1541 drive is just over 7.5 inches (length you get almost double that). I don't have Atari floppy drives anymore to measure. Would still prefer ANY retro case over a modern ATX if no one designs one with an atari feel.

RE: alternative cases. Would this fit in any vintage floppy drive case be it Atari, Commodore or Apple?

RE: alternative cases. Would this fit in any vintage floppy drive case be it Atari, Commodore or Apple?

ooh! What added functionality or features does your audio board add?

This is SUCH BS. What is one to do to actually get this RGB nonsense up and running? Got my new adapter in the mail today and nothing works (no fault of Nezgar- I DO appreciate the help). I have purchased THREE cheap Chinese Scart to HDMI converters. TWO didn't work at all and one "works" with major electrical buzz noise rendering it useless. I bought all the gear mentioned in the last post, and female to female RCA audio converters, etc. NOT ONE CONFIGURATION WORKS! Neither Commodore monitor's RGB works with the MIST with scandoubler=0 on multiple cores. My C64 and Atari 800xl show NOTHING when connected by scart to hdmi nor my new female scart-> to Commodore monitor cable. Not even Composite/S-video through SCART. I think I must finally give up on this RGB crap. I'm sure its great for others. No way I'm risking buying a Framemeister and PVM monitor when the basics just don't work for me. I'm no noob at advanced computing and have some soldering skills. So frustrated at the wasted time and money right now. I sense a fire sale coming soon. Thanks to anyone who read this rant.

Sorry to cross-pollute some threads, but I'm hoping someone will know how to fix this or have a link before I buy a different cable. S-Video Mod attempt on an 800xl trying the 3 step Faicuai method but it mucked the color: I clipped out C56. Soldered a Chroma-signal wire under the board from the 5 pin video connector (left lower pin as pictured in description) to the R67/R68 junction (in between, as in connecting to R87 AND R68) The bad part: Lifted right leg of C54... I got a decent signal, but in black and white. If I pushed the leg of C54 back down to its former joint, the ready prompt screen turned back to blue. I tested that "live" which probably was a bad idea... I only get B&W now even IF I put that leg back. I removed C54 completely for now as maybe it is dead? How do I get color back? I've tried with both NTSC and PAL Antic chips swapping out in case it was a PAL issue. Does not seem to be the case. I did hear strange noises coming from the 1084S monitor speakers but that stopped. Is it possible that I did everything correctly, but my cable may have been designed for Commodore 64 and the pins don't match up or do I need a different video Din connector?

I'm just curious as to what you are referring to. SOL on what?

@Dropcheck Did you ever resolve this issue? If you follow THIS thread, there may be some interesting ideas. I'm NOT suggesting it as it is for a different mod. Still, if you see the 3 step mod that Faicuai speaks of, is it possible C56 or C54 has anything to do with this? In my experience, Removing C54 from the right hand side killed my color, but touching the pin back to the pad would temporarily restore it... now that doesn't work so I removed C64 all together. I hope I did not short anything. Curious, your video output - did you run the connector through the expansion port or did you mod your case?

Don't know how I missed that in my search... Many thanks! Seems the how to answer is to just keep trying to desolder the legs, but it can be a pain.

The RF module box has tabs all around it but seems you have to de-solder the four legs at the bottom which are much more stubborn than standard solder joints. Are there any good guides/videos for doing this properly without mucking things up? The same can be said for the channel selector.

Also, I removed C54 and C56 as mentioned in my cross referenced thread. Are those some of the pull up resisters in your item 2 that would make your board not work until I fixed that?

I have a Commodore 1084S and 1902 monitor which have S-video via chroma/luma inputs and RGB. The chroma/luma has been working fine unless I'm seeing Composite only from my C64 and 800xl without knowing it. I can't see why the monitors would function with one input but not in RGB mode. I bought the following setup to work with both monitors: PHILIPS CM8833 MKII RGB MONITOR TO SCART ADAPTER CABLE Your linked Amazon gender changer item for the 1902 monitor to also work with this cable (haven't received adapter yet) The above would plug into the back of the monitors to allow input from: From http://www.retrocomputershack.com/I bought a Commodore CBVS A/V cable that is 5 pin to male scart Lotharek's RGB output cable for MIST Toggling to the RGB input provides a black screen on the 1084s when using the 800xl and C64 with the retroshack cable- same result with Lotharek cable with MIST with scandoubler=1

Ok Bryan, please PM me so I may see ordering options for an 800XL with a soon to be added Rev C Basic rom and currently a PAL Antic on a NTSC (with optional NTSC Antic). The Sophia RGB mod sounds awesome but my MIST computer already supports RGB and I haven't got ANYTHING RGB related working yet after TONS of cables, gadgets, adapters, etc.