seastalker

I'm confused - what needs to be cut? The plastic pegs? If so, do new replacement pin headers come with pegs? I had assumed a new one would fit over and secure with those two pegs. If I wasn't clear, those pegs are what is left-over after I removed the pin header on the Genesis model 2. I can push them in or pull them as far as they will go out, and they look ready to fit a replacement header. I can live with just soldering pins and using screws without the pegs, especially when the 32x has that metal plate with four extra stabilizers. Do you mean cut out the pegs to remove the 32x pin header without damaging the traces on the board?

MrMaddog - that RetroArch feature would be amazing! The 32x is interesting in perhaps a similar regard, though far less numbers in available software. My 32x, already on thin ice in the "Should I keep or should I sell" realm, cannot play some protos/demos/homebrew that an emulator can.

I'd have to look up this tech but it sounds intriguing. Maybe I am late to the party, but what is a Super Capacitor if not from Console5? In all seriousness, I wonder how I have yet to hear of this and am excited for any potential improvements.

I don't mind wearing the comfy hat. I don't accept the corona virus as depicted any more than I would the VCS... just a business delay. Taco Bell would be more of a health concern, but that's just me. I'm sure the VCS will take full advantage of the extended pass this grants them though. It will be interesting to see if the VCS is released before this thread gets to page 2000 though.

Keatah, respectfully I suppose you and I aren't on the same wavelength (in this thread, at least). Maybe lost in translation, but just like 'ashamed' is not implied by not wanting to admit something, the marks around the word flaws were there to provide context of how little such design problems like the 360 and ps3 models mentioned exist anywhere else. Those other systems' 'flaws' are sure easy to take care of if you catch them in time, and I'd work on them any day over a PS3 or 360 ever again. Any flaws if anything at all are a lack of future planning if a component could leak and render the system useless, but still only if they took the cheaper route and knew about it. If that was all that was available, then it is not. I've heard capacitors took a dive somewhere around the mid-2000s too so if that was all that was available and the quality dip was unknown, it is harder to blame a manufacturer of the era. A mostly trivial demonstration can be at the soldered vs. easily drop-in replaceable batteries of a 3do, Saturn and dreamcast where convenience or not doesn't make or literally break the console. Amigas and OG Xbox's typically aren't as lucky. Why does a more modern system like Gamecube have more disc rot than earlier titles? Design flaw (of discs) or cutting corners? [I am not implying either way.]

Exactly! Not to mention early Xbox 360s and PS3s are in my opinion the two WORST systems to work on! There are TONS of screws of all different types to keep track of, a puzzle to put back together, custom opening tools, and of very few systems where end users need to actually fix crippling design flaws as a maintenance given... if you have to do reballing on a PS3 phat or 360 white, you really should have special gear for it. Only design 'flaws' I otherwise contended with are the clock capacitors and batteries in an OG xbox, Amiga and Apple IIGS.

Thanks as always DrVenkman, but these aren't rivets and I unintentionally used a misleading word. These aren't like drilling a model M keyboard for a bolt mod, if that isn't an analogy for a niche audience. The pictures below show a Genesis Model 2 after desoldering and using a flat head to pry up the connector on the topside. The Plastic pegs on the underside 'unlock' to free up the topside pin connector. Those pegs can slide down but don't fall out, nor do they by pulling. I could force them but might break them as well as would need them to apply a new pin connector. Being a dead board, I don't mind just using it for parts. I was more liberal with the flathead, but though I did not see visible trace damage, I don't want to risk it on the 32x, which has the same pin connector, but uses the extra metal shielding in the last picture. Anyone know a good tool to free up the 32x pin connector without damaging the board?

Though I mentioned the Dolphin's capability before, Catpix SHOWS it. Maybe this is where I came up with the thread idea. That and the controller idea. Look at the PS1-PS4 controller designs. Basically the same shape with some modernizing along the way, but not like SMS to Genesis leap or all the Nintendo changes. Even new retro controllers for the Genesis, Saturn and Dreamcast are getting the modern standardized double handgrip look so it's a thing. I'm sure a PS8 future controller option will be just as handy for playing all PS games (except we will get 3 years battery life on one charge). Xbox is similar in controller designs. As systems, the 360 had design flaws and the PS3 is the twin in terms of both design flaws and PITA to fix design flaws unless, funny enough- their first models were the worst, slims were the best, and 3rd models have hacking limitations or just not as good as the slims. Oddly similar paths of their timeline. So, I'll add that working on the upkeep of modern systems is worse than older ones- you have not only electronics to learn, but mechanical repair with moving parts... and don't get me started on proprietary power-supply changes on each of those revisions. Some of the younger crowd probably love the post-2000 consoles. Many newer consoles are like beefy PCs, and also played on flat panel displays so I don't feel as differently than I do for 90's and earlier. Another factor to add is time for games. I loved Resident Evil 4 on the wii, but in the same way I shy from tv series, I just don't have time for modern games that suck a month away. A simple game that takes that long to master is one thing but a drawn out linear story I just can't do anymore. So for the handful of PS2 onward and Xbox (jury is still out on OG xbox) using the same basic controller shape, I think PC emulation if not there now, will be the way to go. FPGA over HDMI and component CRT for N64, PS1 and earlier are fine by me. I'm keeping my recapped non-TMSS Sega genesis for the foreseeable future though. Pocket and Mister have my handhelds covered. Saturn-waiting for ODE to buy. Dreamcast is interesting because my modded one plays well on a VGA monitor, but I hesitate on the HDMI mod because I can see Redream taking the dreamcast to Dolphin levels. Dreamcast is most on my radar to see my own best solution who never had one 20 years ago. I'd like to try a real Vectrex someday because even with Mister, you can't recreate the original monitor. That's a unique system I can see keeping around.

If you mess up your cable, there are gold plated modern ones manufactured without that pin. Probably castlevaniagames has it or console5.com

Are you using an original Sega branded power supply? This site has great info: https://gametrog.com/how-which-do-i-need-sega-ac-power-supply-information-specs-model-mk-3025-mk-1602-mk-2103-mk-1479-mk-4122-aa-s95j/ Check if your current (no pun intended) power supply is 9 volt, 10v etc. If possible, that is a good place to start. I am unsure about 3rd party ones, but Bob at RetroRGB mentioned one before. Also, I have enjoyed using the 3 in one 'tower of power' ones (called the S3 or Trio I think on ebay). As for patch cables, Nick's advice is sound - for more info on that check this video:

Sometimes, cleaning just isn't enough. You can try to re-tension the cartridge slot pins, but sometimes you just have to try replacing the whole pin connector. I've seen how to do an original NES front loader. I can even de-solder the pins on other systems, but to get the pin header off the board after the pins are free-floating post desolder, there are still those left and right holes that screws usually go through. I got one off a dead Genesis model 2, but to put it on a 32x for example is no easy feat. I don't want to hurt 32x traces by jamming a flat heat under the plastic (nor create invisible broken traces from cracks in the fragile pcb). Is there a tool or method to get those "rivets" out safely? A video link is best if available. I had one a year ago but can no longer find it. Thank you!

My last post's issue is fixed, and wanted to share from another thread where people can get replacement 32x ribbon cables:

Why should anyone think "ashamed" enters the picture. I thought I was clear and again in the clarification but I suppose I failed again in communication. I don't hate emulation, nor imply anyone should. Think of the thread title like re-wiring your whole office and moving your desk to face the window, and then realizing you liked it better the original way before you put in all that work. If you re-cap systems and monitors and have spare parts on hand, they will likely outlive some of us so I doubt I will be begg'n for emulation, but I like emulators. Equally, for most, original hardware will give the best experience, but with assumptions. Original hardware like an Atari 2600 on a new 4k tv through RF isn't the same 'original hardware' as assuming you are playing on an old woodgrain CRT. Then there are some that just don't understand FPGA, and when done correctly, it IS the original system, but playable on a modern screen like you RGB modded the original. With the Analogue products, it was mentioned that Kevtris actually made a BETTER SNES than Nintendo did when using the DAC. When people start using acid to de-cap ICs and get to cycle accuracy, it's hard for me to hear people call FPGA "emulation." It is its own category in available options though. As Juansolo mentioned, The Mister project NeoGeo makes buying real hardware and super expensive game titles obsolete for SOME people like me. Maybe it will help drive down the prices for those that do want to collect for it. Mister is the ONLY way I play Supergrafx games for the same reason when prices can't be justified. Other great examples here are cd load times, burning CDrs, unreliable hardware, desk space, not wanting a PC in the living room... all great examples. I mention PS1 in that I bought a modchip, installed it, learned the laser is very picky on cdr media, researched, bought Taiyo Yuden Silver Lacquer cdrs, still have trouble, and still experimenting with both arguments of best write speeds... yet my PS mini classic works like a champ. Others may prefer emulation for newer features like rewind if not save states. Cheating for me doesn't matter if just playing for fun on your own and not competing. I modded the heck out of an OG XBOX due to the state of emulation not being ready yet, though it was 'after my time' and holds little to no nostalgia for me. I may only have it because Modern Vintage Gamer did a video calling it pretty much the Dreamcast 2. I'm checking out Sega games mainly. PS2 I may check out just for Sega Ages.

I found a reddit post that may be very handy for those needing replacement white ribbon cables: get 4x of these: https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=HF20U-02-ND Original reddit post: Aaron707 Ive replaced the ribbon cables with shorter ones when I built a neptune for my brother.Here is the part: HF20U-02-ND https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=HF20U-02-ND You will need four of the above part and place two back to back to make one ribbon cable. Nice tight fit with no issues. It allowed me to get everything very compact. I also used wire to relocate some of the genesis capacitors near the cart slot so the upper 32x board could be lower when sandwiched. Also a good idea to recap the genesis and 32x before doing the mod. I had some faulty caps on my 32x and wished I had replaced them before modding as its much easier. I wonder if the model 2 Neptune hack also can fit a triple bypass mod. If I can get this 32x working I will have an extra one so maybe a Neptune project will happen. My next fix may be a replacement 64 pin cartridge port from a dead donor model 2 genesis to replace the 32x one. If that doesn't work, I guess I'll try a new voltage regulator(s) where needed.

I want to notate this troubleshooting for others, knowing that the Sega 32x can be a tricky thing to get working. I got a working 32x (revision VA 1 board) to go with my one with issues (VA 0). Here is the timeline: 1. Sega 32x VA0 doesn't work. Cleaned it and it worked. 2. Came back to it weeks later and I get audio and picture, but picture is flicker-city and distorted. 3. Ordered recap kit form Console 5 and recapped it all, but problem persists. 4. Muti-meter test on all pins of two white ribbon cables showed no problems. 5. Researched revisions and found that the top board is the same on all but the bottom cart slot has VA0, then more reliable VA1 and bought a working 32x of the latter. 6. Saw Kevtris's 32x guide and on the recapped VA0, I re-recapped the one barrel cap and the one surface mount cap on bottom board- no difference. I borrowed the white ribbon cables of the new one- no change. 7. To pinpoint the problem, I took pictures (see below) of all wires connecting top and bottom boards and swapped bottom boards (again, top boards are all the same) between my two 32x units. Lucky 7! They both worked perfectly! I had two working 32x's for some unknown reason. **Notice in the pictures, that Sega opted for different points for the ORANGE wire between revisions. 8. Wanting the new surface mount cap on the bottom board, I swapped those between the two 32x models... and the screen flicker came back on my original 32x problem even with the new lower board. UGH!! I thought the problem must be this surface mount cap but swapping back, and the problem was still there. So if not the cap, I re-tinned the video output jacks and the solder points of both ends of each connecting wire between top and bottom boards. When all was said and done, I knew that BOTH lower boards were fine because the newer 32x accepts both the VA 0 and VA 1. The lower boards hold all the specialty chips so that is the good news. 9. I re-checked polarity on all my new cap replacements even though the issue pre-dates that task. Thinking it must be the wires, I reconnected each. 10. Stable picture now, but the screen was heavy on the RED hues. These wires must be the culprit. ***11. Messing with each wire individually, the BLUE wire connected to pin 8 on the white ribbon header lifted... with the pad/pin underneath! ARRGGHH! [More on this down below]. Without this wire connection, I got no picture or anything. I jammed the wire in and the solder pen adhered it to SOMETHING inside. 12. I powered on the 32x, and it now ALMOST works! I have correct colors, and Star Wars 32x looked fine until the destroyer ship in the opening fired weapons and the screen is now doing minor flickers, but not more flickering like you threw the V-hold or sync out of whack. I laughed because the AUDIO makes the flicker now- it's like the ship's weaponry in the Star Wars intro is too "awesome" for the 32x to handle so it must flinch. That's my one handy OG 32 x game so I tried the Mega SD and some Genesis carts. All work fine until I load a 32x game where the "sound causes flicker" issue is there. Tested with Afterburner 32x. Being fair, if it IS the blue wire's fault, PLEASE PLEASE someone help me trace that pin 8 to an alternate location so I might try again with a sturdier solder point. I wonder now if my original issue was a liftING pad on pin 8 before it finally went. I really want to share my findings with a fully recapped in 2020 Sega 32x with Kevtris fix compared to a non-recapped one. I'll then recap the other one and compare re-cap to re-cap, but with only one having the Kevtris 2x cap mod. So if anyone can help me pinpoint this problem for others, here is the help I need. I need to find where blue wire pin 8 can have an alternate solder connection for the blue wire. I looked at the service manuals and schematics here: https://gamesx.com/wiki/doku.php?id=schematics:console_related_schematics ...and realized that schematics are greek to me. I looked with a magnifying glass. Pin 8 was by design or afterthought NOT fully connected like the other pins on the ribbon header, nor can I see where this pin leads to on the VA1. It almost looks like a metal stub of the pin is above. On the VA0, there is a Sega technician's cut trace as per what they did in Sega's in house repair guide. Now, 10 pics of a VA 0 vs VA1 . Again, note the orange wire placement differences while the others are the same. Note the pic descriptions 2. Any help on that blue wire especially would be so greatly appreciated. These 5 or so connection wires may be important 32x troubleshooting so hopefully Kevtris or Smokemonster's recent experiences lend themselves to comment on this. Thank you all.

The initial question is just a bit of fun and my example answers (3DO 32x) are my own journey. Am I alone in seeing how serious the answers are here as an indicator of how this question needs to be asked? derFunkenstein, what a great comment: "Since I don't want a PC in the living room, I use a DE10-Nano for everything it can do and have original hardware (or backwards-compatible hardware) for the rest. PS1-4, OG Xbox, Xbox One X, Dreamcast, Saturn, Switch, and WiiU (with vWii and Game Cube compatibility)." This is a great example where OG hardware may sit in a closet for "one fine day" but the MISTER is like a RGB mod for many OG systems and computers and much smaller without software emulation of any kind. I want to know one individual who is still rocking a DEC PDP-1 computer to play Spacewar. That may be the broad end of the spectrum, but it makes the point here for discussion of when is it OG or broke and when is it emulation above all and when is there place in your heart for OG hardware? Here is another example: I had a GC for many seconds AFTER getting a Wii. I modded both and had hard-mod tech for the GC and DS around the same time. The point is things change all the time. The GC is hardware built-in on a wii - this is like a PS1 built in on a fat PS2 and the early slims before PS1 was relegated to official Sony emulation. The GC load times never made me need a GC, and after Nintendont, loading Wii, GC, and then arcade Triforce games from USB hard drive made me not look back. I never had a GBA other than my DS lite with a M4 flash cart. I learned of the GBA player attachment for the GC. Cool, yes but I was fine with emulation for not having the system. Now, the GBA player is cool, but there is the option of GBA consolizer if you have carts, or again, MISTER now takes over for the GC attachment need. The Analogue Pocket may be the new hardware killer for a battery eating, McWill mod needing Lynx, GG, and even the NGP, NGPC and entire GB line. So yeah, FPGA hardware is definitely a consideration in this topic as well. Currently, though I am experimenting with PS1 games on real soft and hardware modded PS1/PS2/PS3 systems, my current favorite way to play PS1 games is on a PS1 classic image - you get the totally acceptable factory emulator, and for sticklers, the Retroarch core on a piece of plastic and controllers that look like the original. I thought I'd like OG PS hardware but am finding I most enjoy the experience in emulation so far. A jailbroken Analogue PS system or Mister core, and I am done with anything else probably. I never got an acceptable PS1 emulation experience before the classic (modded). So I will poke the stick more - in 2020, for you personally, are you ok with Saturn, Dreamcast and N64 emulation or for you are they still not where you need them for accuracy? And glazball: "Games are always best on original hardware, end of story." Yes, the point of this fun is to see though the real word cases where the hardware woes don't justify the upkeep, or the setup pain in the ass doesn't, etc.

I am stirring the hornet's nest a bit for the question. Say you've invested in OG hardware on something you thought you'd have the passion for, then spent money on playing it on a modern screen (like an OSSC or Retrotink) and then had to admit not to others, but yourself that you'd be fine with emulation. Example, I bought a 3DO, and it is cool. I even recapped it to fix an audio problem. I need to test it against the 4DO emulator to see if it is worth keeping or get it to someone with a bunch of original 3DO games. If a Mister core gets released, again it is a fair argument just for not dealing with optical media.

The original consoles will of course be better in terms of accuracy be default just for being THE thing and not the copy. Maybe the question was strangely worded. What experiences do you have if playing a wide selection of games, do you want to like original hardware more, but for whatever reason, you still prefer emulating it? Maybe you don't want to deal with bad lasers anymore, maybe you prefer the Dolphin emulator for getting sharper results from upscaling on a modern screen with a beefy PC you just can't get from a GC or Wii. Maybe it comes down to monitors... many feel the only way to play the retro systems is on a CRT, but if you only dabble in modern gaming, the switch to LCDs and flat screens lessens your requirements for read hardware so your flat PC monitor with an emulator works better for you if playing Sony PS2/3/PSP or Xbox 360. I suppose a part two question is what systems do you feel are two modern for your tastes to try playing them on a CRT, regardless of picture quality. Maybe it just feels wrong or out of place. Then the middle road systems, depending on if you had them in the day, you could go either way. OG Xbox and Dreamcast come to mind. I have an early 1080p LCD LED 40 inch flatscreen that has VGA input, but man does Dreamcast look great on a mid-90's VGA CRT. For me, I'm messing with the 32x library on real hardware, but finding a reliable one is hard. In my case, even when recapping. Will I keep it when I'm done playing all the games? I burned through AfterBurner and Spider-man Web of Fire today. I don't like having to swap the 32x in and out so there is one con. Then, with the small library, a handful won't run on my USA NTSC model, so I will have to emulate those and the Sega CD 32x ones unless the MegaSD gets the expansion slot adapter. So the 32x is on my purgatory watch list for now. A MiSTer or future FPGA solution would make me get rid of it right away. A PS1 core will make me stop experimenting with the PS1,2, and 3 probably.

PREFACE: The thread title may be both subjective and divisive. I am mostly a pre-2000 gamer when it comes to consoles and computer games... [see, I didn't say PC games]. So subjectively, of course first and foremost, if you have nostalgia for a certain console, buy it and play on that. EVEN with access to complete rom collections, I tend to play the games I actually own or owned back in the day. So these are the stories I'd love to hear about from others! For me, the Genesis is the ultimate. My re-capped non-TMSS model 1 with a MegaSD on a CRT plays my SMS library, light gun games, Genesis, and Sega CD. I have an Analogue MegaSG as well, which I consider my triple bypass HDMI model, and my perfect-enough SG-1000, Gamegear and Colecovision (and to think of each core as an official original 1st party revision model). 32x is a different beast for me. I have little 1st hand nostalgia beyond 3-4 games with little attachment. I am testing the 32x library on original hardware to see if it justifies keeping vs the PC emulation route (or wait for FPGA solution). My best 32x experience thus far was Blackthorne on a PC emulator with a Genesis controller so we'll see. As a Sega fan, I now have a Saturn and self-pimped out Dreamcast (battery mod, fan mod, Pico-PSU, GDEMU), though I never had them back then. I'm waiting to judge the Saturn when I can get a Satiator or more likely, a Fenrir solution. Still, I have as a Sega fan, ZERO 1st hand nostalgia for either post-genesis system. Now I hear the right PC specs can make the REDREAM emulator run better than the dreamcast could output even with the expensive HDMI mod. If you had a Dreamcast back in the day, you are likely to say Dreamcast or nothing. Saturn emulation has had a rough history and I foresee the ODE on a real Saturn option to be the best until FPGA core comes true, which we may wait a long time for. This is not to say I bought NO post-2000 console. In fact I bought a Wii on the release day just to get back into gaming. I had some fun, but even there, I think the Dolphin emulator has pretty much taken over the original Gamecube (again, except for nostalgic sticklers for original hardware). I just saw a video that disc rot is surprisingly most prevalent in this more recent Gamecube system than anywhere else. I even had a Gamecube [post-wii owning] and messed with homebrew. It is cool but I missed the boat. My Double Dash Mario Kart life was entirely on the wii's built in Gamecube mode so for me, SD ODE solutions for GC are not a wise purchase since I sold all GC games I had. The Gamecube for me from here on is the Wii for official hardware (I think of the Wii as the Gamecube Commodore 64c -no... the C128 . Command line: Go GC) with Nintendon't on a USB HDD. I might even sell my wii though; if I upgrade a PC to optimized Dolphin standards since even the wii I am running my backups mostly. I have no interest in current gen systems. I've held a WiiU once and know zero about its library. I have a pimped out OG Xbox that I need to give more time for and think of it as a Dreamcast 2. My modded Xbox 360 I haven't touched and should probably sell. PS2, PS3 I'd only be interested in for revised classics from Sega or arcade so emulation is fine by me. Even PS1 I am struggling with for a perfect setup for me. I didn't play PS1 games until my modded PS Classic/mini image. To compare, I'm messing with glitchy discs on a modchipped PSONE vs emulated PS3 (and PS2 fat I can play un-emulated if I get a mod chip). For a non-original disc player like me, so far, I'd have to give it to the modded PS mini/classic emulation for ease of setup and convenient HDMI. The hit or miss burns on a real PSONE is annoying, and I haven't done the modded PS2 HDD route/modchip yet. Not having the same passion for anything Sony, in the end, my experiments are stalling because without many physical game copies, I think my ideal PS1 will be an inevitable Mister core. For Nintendo, Mist/Mister is enough, but I'd buy an Analogue 8 if it is what I think it will be. I only played Nintendo NES at friends houses and have near zero Super-nintendo memories. The SNES core on Mister has blown me away though so that is my RGB modded SNES on a budget with no perceivable downside. I have a N64 and flash cart for now because I have yet to see perfect emulation in the trinity of Saturn/N64/Dreamcast. Plus I can play DD and arcade games. I'd sell my recapped 3DO in a heartbeat if a Mister core were released, and wouldn't blink about using a Genesis or Saturn controller for all 3DO gaming from then on. CD-i - This system still has little in terms of emulation in 2020 and I think a Mister core would be the one chance to make it more mainstream. So what do you think of better to emulate than not ideas? CD32? CDtv? Jaguar? when is it better to emulate based on the given emulator performance vs hardware solutions?

I saw a video on the 32x claiming to show all 40 games. I went through my archives and thought there were 34 + 5 CD/32x titles, then discovered this one rare extra cd/32x one. I then saw a reddit post saying this rare title was available for free download but it did not include a link. I am not wishing for any illegal against the rule links. I mean to ask, was this title legally made available for free? If so, can anyone lead me to where I can find it? It would be nice to have a round number of 40 titles for the 32x.

I checked and saw there was a firmware revision from .07 to .09 which seemed to make things better, mostly. The problem still happens, but it is good to set your MegaSD reset setting to HARD. If the problem shows up again, hit the reset button on the Genesis a couple of times and the menu should show. ALSO, if you select a 32x game and it doesn't boot, it might be loaded into memory but you need to hit reset again for the game to load. I can live with that.

I don't really need the adapters, they might be more a nice to have (though if the My Card can make the 3d glasses work... maybe). The price hike is disappointing, and I am also bummed for others here with large collections that really could have used them but missed out. Kevtris is fantastic, and I adore the Analogue products, but PLEASE someone at Analogue on the business side, think longer term creating a fan base for future purchases. It is beyond frustrating to not know to pre-order a DAC right away ASAP or if it is safe to wait a few days, knowing the adapters were coming, and one could order both to save a bit on shipping. Further, if one did pre-order two things together, combined shipping should be an option if your account already has a pre-order attached to it. Please don't do this again with the Pocket and the dock, and please be ready for orders so Pockets dont go out of stock before one can get it from cart to finish.

Such fantastic news, schnuth! Pezz, if you read this, I thank you for coming back. I hope you PM someday for words of encouragement. Welcome back.

I finally have a working 32x. Works with both 32x carts and Genesis games. When using the MegaSD, I can select any game and load fine. If I turn off the genesis and on again to select a new 32x game, the MegaSD doesn't boot into the menu again. I have to wait a while and try again. I do not have this issue when the MegaSd is plugged in directly in the Genesis without the 32x (though obviously I mean the menu loads but can't play 32x games w/o a 32x). I tried to define precisely what wait time is required. I think I got it down to a five minute wait before powering on again. Is it a heat issue and waiting a few minutes makes the SD load again without issue? Does the MegaSD take a power draw standard carts don't take? I'm trying to troubleshoot why a recapped Genesis, Mega SD and 32x all work fine on their own but not when paired as a trilogy without waiting some odd minutes. The only other thing I can think of is if the MegaSD holds something in static memory that prevents it from rebooting on a 32x for a few minutes until time elapsed rids the cart of some memory based stored information. Any takers on this issue? Thanks!

I've been into re-capping systems lately and wondered about how important it is to recap surface mount capacitors. I knew to replace Electrolytic capacitors on things you want to keep but overlooked somewhat the surface mount ones over the Donkey Kong barrels. I also realize that 'surface mount' doesn't exclude the possibility that some/all are also Electrolytic capacitors. I first learned of needing to replace surface mount caps on a Sega Game Gear. Now I am looking at the Sega Saturn and see that there are kits available for both hole 'DK barrels' and surface mounts. Obviously getting both and changing all is 'best' but is the surface mount kit overkill?