48kRAM

I'll pick my favorite Atari number - 12294

A fellow in the UK has imported a batch of UAVs and is getting set up to sell them there shortly (maybe even now) https://ctrl-alt-rees.com/ctrl-alt-rees-shop.html

Thom has created a proof-of-concept "boot menu" for the Atari. It allows to choose a TNFS server and then provides a list of available disk images. You can choose one and then (re)boot your Atari into that image. I've posted a video demo of the "diskulator" test. I've tested against my local TNFS server as well as one on an internet-facing VM and it works pretty smoothly. Things are moving right along!

The video from the stream is here: https://www.twitch.tv/videos/511966022?t=00h01m33s Please pardon my goofing around with the camera and my phone (tschak couldn't make it into the stream so we used Twitter instead)

All, Now that I have the stereo POKEY mod installed in my 800XL, I'm converting a bunch of my favorite tunes to XEX to run on real hardware. I'm using asapconv like: asapconv --tag -o foo.xex foo.sap and copying the results to SIO2SD. Many of the files play fine, but occasionally I'll get one that "glitches" during playback. Basically, it sounds like playback stops for ~2 seconds and the POKEY just keeps on playing the last thing in its registers. Playback resumes afterward and sounds fine. Could this be an issue with asapconv or will some SAP files just do this? The SAP files in question play fine in, say, Foobar2K w/ the ASAP plugin installed. As an example, the tune Windy Mind (from asma38/Composers/Grayscale) exhibits this issue, while "Let it Roll" from the same folder does not. Glitch occurs on real HW and in Altirra. Thanks, -Josh

I did more-or-less exactly this on my 800XL - just solder wire jumpers in place of where the pin jumpers should go. Just followed the jumper settings for 800XL without really caring about the purpose of each pin, but they're pretty clearly labeled in the schematics as being the 4 luma channels plus power and ground. https://twitter.com/48kRAM/status/883007320254492674

The date code on mine is 024, so early 1984. Before things really started downhill.

Or I might try to use it for the stereo / mono switch for my dual Pokey upgrade that I still need to install. I have an SIO2SD so I might skip the SIO2PC.

Yep, Paul sells all his 800xl machines fully socketted I think. Anyway, he made sure mine was.

Hmm - no power LED. That sounds like a big clue to me, so, I quickly found some schematics for the 130xe and.... I can't locate the power LED on the schematics. So I can't guess at what could be causing the lack of a power LED (unless the LED is burned out). The diagnosis from here would be to validate the power supply. You can check this at the power pins of any of the chips. Here's the pinout for the RAM chips: http://www.minuszerodegrees.net/memory/4164/4164_list_4.jpg So you want to measure voltage between pins 8 and 16. Follow the diagram and not the chip orientation via the notch. It should read 5 volts.

Yep - no problems running w/o the RF modulator. I removed the modulator from my 400 as well when I did my first quick-n-dirty composite mod there.

I got the RF modulator off the board. My Hakko iron wasn't up to the task but a 240w Weller gun made short work of it. The case hole for the RF jack is the perfect size for this S-video jack: https://console5.com/store/s-video-jack-gold.html I also have my UAV installed. Only the composite output so far. The picture has definitely improved, but I'm still seeing a lot of ghosting, etc. I'm hoping that will get cleaned up with proper coax video cables and video jacks.

The 400 and 800 used standard coaxial jacks and single-voltage power supply outputting AC power. The 5v DC is generated from the internal power supply board. IIRC, those type of supplies were basically tanks -- unless someone here w/ more experience contradicts me. I have several of the 9V AC Atari supplies for my 400, 810 and 850 units.

Cool - thanks for the confirmation on the power supply. Now, is there any known or suggested fix for the buzzing? If not, I'll probably just replace it with a modern 5V 2A supply instead. Any words of advice on such an undertaking?

That was a top photo - granted it was a bad top photo It's the type shown in the top-right in this image: