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About the_crayon_king

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  1. UAV is the best bet. I had thought his goal was to make his own thing from scratch tho. Or possibly he can't get the UAV shipped to his location. The FMS6410 can still be purchased but it is no longer produced AFAIK. If you source a FMS from somewhere other than china then I really doubt it would be fake. Just old stock.
  2. So I converted those descriptions into colors but I can't say they match the palettes that are out there much. Here is an example with IMBezerk's palette on top and the description colors on bottom: https://i.imgur.com/lwHwGcu.png The blacked out colors are ones I haven't done yet. I got the colors by taking the things he is talking about and putting them through a color averager. Or sometimes I took descriptions like "gray with a tinge of purple" to mean things like lavender gray. I'm not sure what to do with this information really.. Imbezerk's purple isn't dark purple either; its more of a dark magenta. "Sick green-blue" would be retro mint green I am pretty sure. Afrika Korps yellow shows up a bit different in the show The Rat Patrol than any modern cognates for that color. Still his description points to something in-between marigold and amber which is what I did. The overall point being what are we considering as "accurate" when we talk about these colors? These boards will be coming in a few days and I want to install them.
  3. Lol that's a hamburger ?! I thought it was a big ol pickle. I thought the hamburger patties were coming later and we were just making pickle and lettuce sandwiches. In hindsight that doesn't make a lot of sense. All my TVs are early to late 90s. Apart of the problem is blending you get though RF; I will cede that the color "brown" should probably be brown and not green. Despite how it looks on my TVs though RF. I have to use other people eyes to discern color correctness because I didn't grow up with this console. I changed it to this: https://i.imgur.com/jRh4euE.jpg This is brown without the tinge of green in it 074 074 000; VS IMbezerk's 066 074 008 This is also an example where the khaki colored tan looks less good than the yellowish colored tan
  4. I tweaked a few colors as I discussed previously.: I am using IMBerzerk's palette for most colors. IMBerzerk's tan (khaki) is the default tan but this tan can be toggled to mthompson's tan (yellowish). Anyway, this is the one and only color that can be toggled. IMBerzerk's grey was too bright (coming off as white) so I am using mthompson's grey there. Lastly, I am using mthompson's brown color since that color (super dark green) looks closer to what I see over RF on all 4 of my intellivisions. I made some changes to the code that restores hsync pulses inside of vsync,. which has a very small chance of allowing this to work with an OSSC. If this code doesn't help with the OSSC then I will remove it and allocate those resources to adding another color or two to the palette toggle function. I mean I am working with binary and the code is so full right now changing a single 0 to a 1 puts me over budget as far as available space. Sadly, most mod developing is sitting around waiting for boards/components to arrive (which is what I am doing right now). I will have at least 10 of these put together by the end of the month. It will take some time after to restock some of these components (the CPLD and DAC). Once I validate the design I won't have a problem buying a larger amount.
  5. I don't know why you would not just have your op-amps being voltage followers. Like if you are setting gain on your op amps at all then your inputs must be being attenuated to less than 2V; I don't see a reason to do that. Just change your 75 pulldowns on the video inputs to a higher amount. I also don't see the point in having two potentiometers on the Y line. Like that is the point of the resistor ladder those resistances should already be correct. I mean I see you are trying to augment the Luma without effecting the sync. My point is you shouldn't need to do that; these should already be weighted correctly. If when adjusting the other pot you lose video (sync is less than 300mv) then you have moved video out of the correct P-P anyway. Also those input capacitors block DC right ? So then your op amp MUST have a negative power rail. Else your 0 to 2V inputs without DC would be -1V to 1V right ? If you don't have a negative power input then your output will be clipped at ground unless I am missing something. As the others have said we don't really know your motives; just messing around ? trying to make an open/easy circuit for others ? Trying to make a mod better than exists currently ? < this is unlikely There are hundreds of ways to build this kind of circuit. I have done it just separating the Y/C on the Atari after the Atari's own dac ladder. Then fed those signals to a pot to ground then into the THS7314. I may have used input caps and pullups or something and of course output caps but that's it. If you want to sum for composite you should probably just double up the inputs to a THS7374 then sum two of the outputs (one Y and one C) with a 470pf capacitor. That way you still get S-Video outputs. There is also the FMS6410B but I don't like using it personally.
  6. The buffer based design could remove analog noise on the luma line. However your issue doesn't seem to be "just" noise. The only time I have seen video with so much distortion is if ground is not connected to the AV cable. What about the blank pin ? I have heard if blank is not connected to COL with a 680ohm resistor it can cause issues. You could also try removing chroma from luma; this will tell you if your video issues are from the chroma line. The picture will be in black and white when you do this but it can help when trying to trace down an issue. Lastly, all things being equal try swapping the mods between the consoles. That will tell you if the issue is in the kit or in the console. Good luck.
  7. Maybe try an output capacitor ? Unless you are making a mistake like summing audio with the video I don't see any other explanation besides maybe a DC offset. Or try using an op amp. I do not trust transistors. https://easyeda.com/hotdog6394/ths7374-universal-video-amp
  8. Arcadia 2001, Magnavox O2, Mattel Aquarius, and Fairchild Channel F. Any console that has 6 or less digital bits for video can interface with this. Those consoles are the only ones I know of. The code/clock buffer is the only thing that changes between any of those versions. Someone would still need multiple boards for multiple consoles. I have tested all of those except the Chan F and the Aquarius. I think my Channel F is broken and my Aquarius has a clock with a 12V DC offset (thus the need for a clock buffer). How much will this cost ? I don't know yet. It will certainly costs somewhere between 30 and 60$. It really depends... Paypal fees are X amount, shipping is X amount, all the parts are X amount, and my time per board is worth X amount. I have to go though and figure that out. If I could invest enough money in a reflow oven and stencils I could possibly reduce the price. Demand will dictate if I can afford to do that. Right now I need to finish developing the new dev board and then get some tests done with the old version in the interim. For now I just want to concentrate on the Intellivision then move on to those other ones.
  9. I will be selling these., they wont be open source for a long time. There is a lot of time and money invested in this goofy little project. I just got the model 1 in the mail and it is unfeasible to make a socketable kit for it. I guess I can just go back to the old design and just make breakouts to make the wiring cleaner. I should probably mention this board works on other consoles as well I just wanted to start with the Intellivision. I just need to incorporate a clock buffer into the "dev board" design and this will be done. The Intellivision doesn't need its clock buffered but some of these other consoles do. I'm just doing some minor research on how to buffer a clock with something that doesn't cost more than 2$.
  10. I thought I posted a picture of the install (whoops). I installed "the dev board" like this https://i.imgur.com/ZDewwTz.jpg Pictured is a very temporary install on the bottom of the motherboard of an intellivision model 2. Anyway, with a specific board design you could either mount it with the header pin setup or stick it someplace like I am currently doing with the dev board. So you kind of get both options just by changing the design a bit. The dev board is about 2x1.5 inches and the revision I have made but not printed yet is about 2x2 inches. So either way it is pretty small. The circuit/code won't change at all; it is functionally the same thing (minus that red bodge wire). I am waiting for a model 1. If I can make the same socketable board work on both then I will do that. Otherwise I will probably revert back to the dev board thing.
  11. @emerson I still don't have a flash cart for the intellivision. I will keep adjusting and see what I can fit while still fitting YPbPr. I will make minor changes so that my screen better reflects what RF looks like on my intellivisions. @Icelvlan I have a model 1 intellivision that should be here any day now. I need to take some physical measurements to see if I can make a board that works across both the 1 and 2 models. (so far I have been using the 2) Anyway, I already have the schematic and the code isn't going to change much. Assuming I don't make errors when creating the board then I should have everything needed by the end of the month. I already have dev boards that work more or less the same as the finished product will but I assumed people want to socket these ?
  12. Don't listen to past me (oh what a fool he was). The (RF) output is possibly inverted when using pullups but not the outputs that are going to the RGB mod. I re-re-made the mod and added S-Video, YPbPr, and Composite Video. I added a resistor divider and a cap for audio out as well but I don't know what audio might need specifically. The link is still the same: https://easyeda.com/hotdog6394/arcadia-2001-rgb Replacing the power reg should be done if there is any significant drift from 5V. There is a buffer here that should set the outputs near 0V for 0 and near 5V for 1 (assuming your input VCC is 5V). Anyway, at 5V 6.04k into 1k should give 714mv. If you need 700mv or 5V is too high (over 5V) just use different values for that section. I added a big fat yellow line to indicate the portion of the circuit not needed if you only want RGB output. Everything is labeled on the board and I can provide a BOM if needed. I predict very low demand for such a circuit so I don't feel like putting much more work into this (but I will change the 0603 resistor pads to the 'correct' size at some point). I will order a small batch but that is about it. I will go so far as to say this will probably work. Keep in mind "YPbPr" here is specifically for old CRTs; I highly doubt it will work on anything else.
  13. Well that's unfortunate... Anyway, I thought the chroma couldn't be buffered. Since chroma is analog? When I say 'buffered' I mean you can't use a hex buffer on C; you can use an op-amp/transistor. I think blanking is just an offset applied to C., so you can buffer blanking then feed it to C. However, I don't see how blanking applied like it is on the atari could wipe C if it was transmitting., which is how I usually see blanking used (like an OE pin). Where Cout would be 0 when blanking is active even if Cin had voltage. Anyone else feel free to illuminate that area because I do not know. You are going to have a hard time getting measurements without an Oscope (im assuming if you had one she stole that too). I guess you could build the circuit in here: https://www.falstad.com/circuit/ Just concentrate on the Y video portion for now. I believe the scale for the resistors should stay more or less the same. You should be seeing 700-714 p-p for video and 300 p-p for sync (sync can be a higher P-P if you don't want to stay super close to spec because if its too small then you won't get video). Here is an example of Y: http://tinyurl.com/y2j7totq This can be used if your buffer goes from near 0 to near 5V any deviation from that messes up the p-p; right now the P-P goes 400, 200, 100 and 300 for sync. I am not sure how that FMS IC will like the impedance with that so you may need a transistor or op amp to buffer to 2X gain (6db). I am also not certain if the resistor ladder I made is correct but its sums up to 0.7 for Y and 0.3 for sync or 1V overall; which is what Y+sync is. If you want to change the scale you can do it with a pot at the op-amp/transistor end. Basically, we are making a DAC in the simplest way possible; there are better ways to do it. You can test Y just by itself first to make sure you get video. Then start messing with C. I would buffer blanking and then apply it to C through a resistor., just like Y the FMS IC probably will not like the impedance so you may need to buffer with an op-amp/transistor. C should probably have a resistor as well. I don't know how you can get it into spec if you don't have an Oscope. I don't know the specific voltages output there. I guess just eyeball the video output and hope you don't break anything. The FMS is sensitive to voltages above about 2V p-p (I think?) so make sure you are going from low to high not high to low. If you got rid of the FMS and just wanted S-Video you could use the THS7314/THS7316 as it doesn't seem to have an issue with impedance. It's also tolerant to 5V so you might not have to worry about breaking something., maybe your TV but at least not the breadboard. Any of this helpful? Anyway, I am sure there is someone on here with more knowledge about this system than I have. EDIT: It appears like the FMS can go +0.3v above VCC or -0.3V below ground. I am confused about that whole thing. Either way you shouldn't be feeding 5V signals to either IC. Or in the case of the FMS exceed 1V p-p; I have definitely melted one before.
  14. Thanks for the input. Looking back imberzerk's version of Harry's shirt looks a lot easier to distinguish. I like imberzerk's for everthing except its tan color. Gray could also be a smidge darker. Left is mthomson right is imberzerk. I can put in a toggle to switch between two different 'tans'., leaving the white looking color as the default and the toggle will change tan to mthomson's version. I hate that white looking tan so it's a must to be able to change it. mthomson's BG color (what color is that anyway ?!) on the Pitfall! startup screen clearly matches what I am seeing on RF better than imberzerk's. I'd like opinions on what to do there. Am I the only one who converts all their consoles to YPbPr so I can play on a CRT ? I could always scrap YPbPr and then have two completely different palettes. The trade off is that people wanting YPbPr would need additional circuitry/costs. I mean I could do that and the additional board could put out YPbPr, S-Video, and composite.
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