SiberianSpForces
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Posts posted by SiberianSpForces
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I did replace the 2 transistors and the 3 0 reading resistors. The 3 still reads 0, but one of the 2, behind the power input(closest to the ribbon), will read 4.## after three or so minutes after powering the board up. I might look into a new speaker? I don't know a for sure way to test s speaker this small.
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Cool beans! I found a text file with some technical info for the D&D game. With the black probe on pin 4 and red on pin 20 I got 6.03, then with red on pin 20, black on the battery clip ground solder joint; 6.02. Hopefully in the morning I can run to the local electronic shop and snag the resistors and transistors.
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Checked the diode, one direction gets the overload display, then the other direction it gives a voltage that starts to drop off. The 0 resistors still come up as 0 when tested. The caps all look great, no puffiness or leakage, then I tested the transistors with the diode setting.
I'm not precisely sure which end is E and C on these
;1st transistor
+ on base/- on E = 729
+ on base/- on C = 731
- on base/+ on E = 772
- on base/+ on C = 1/OL
2nd transistor
+ on base/- on E = 731
+ on base/- on C = 1/OL
- on base/+ on E = 751
- on base/+ on C = 770
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I DC tested the bugger and 3 of the resistors are reading 0, along with the speaker. I'm not too sure right now if the speaker reading is important.
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I sprayed some Deoxit into the switch and slid it back and forth a few times. The battery it uses is a 9v and it's just the clip the battery connects to. I'll see if my meter can do the beeps and check the board out with that.
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Here's a couple close ups. I tested the transistors and got numbers from both. I also got numbers from that cap by the speaker by swapping where I put the + and - from the meter. I also tested the speaker with a 9v and it pops when I test the contacts on the speaker and board.
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Yeah, I can post them later tonight. As for testing it with a battery in, do I leave the meter on the max OHMs setting?
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Yeah, that's something I could try to do. I can google the modern equivalent to the original components and go from there.
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The cap right next to the speaker isn't giving a reading. The display just shows 1 on the left hand side. Then the 2 resistors behind the power input are reading 001, 001, and the one in front of the ribbon is 004. All the joints look good and nothing seems loose. I'm not sure how to test the speaker exactly.
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Used to have one that ended up disappearing. Snagged a non working one off eBay and figured it would be a quick solder job. Not the case, as everything on the board and membrane looks fine. I can't find any type of schematic or technical info for it. I took the multi meter to it and there's 4 parts that I'm wondering about. There's 2 resistors behind the power jack that reads 001, resistor in front of these ribbon reads 004 and the cap next to the speaker just has a 1 that's towards the left side of the display. Any assistance is always appreciated.
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Grew up playing the SNES ports, but if the cut off is the 64/Saturn, I'd go with the 64 port of Hangtime.
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There are some games on the play store, but I'm not sure if there's a specific emulator on Android.
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I almost stopped and picked up a 32" looking Sony flat screen tube TV that's on a curb. I read where some of them have hdmi and aren't ideal for retro gaming. I may check it if it's still there, though it'll be hard to hide a big box like that...
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I sort of remember Chocola. My brother really liked it and I thought he had found some again maybe a couple years or so back.
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I really hope there's not a re-re-release of Shadow of the Colossus, because I have no future plans for console gaming.
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Though a bit hard to find around here, Green River. A local pizza place has Pibb on tap.
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I need to get my game sounds back on my phone. I used Foobar2000 to convert game sound files to wav and then Cool Edit Pro to tweak if needed and save as mp3. I was even able to snag in game sounds off the Twisted Metal disc.
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3D printed a custom d-pad so no alteration to the MAX itself is required. The upside to this is you can change the depth of the pad in relation to the cycloid housing. I made this one about 2mm higher so there's a more pronounced pivot.
That's cool. Would you be down for sharing the stl?
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When I go to the page with chrome on my phone, I go to desktop view in the chrome options. Yeah, my metal tab for the 1p down is very flimsy and doesn't work unless I put some effort into it.
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I still have T2, MK, and MK 3. One in a while I'll pop batteries in and play them. Some guy started putting up in browser playable LCD games on the archives.org site. It would be great to download them and get them working on a Pi. There's a few Pi Zeros that have been put in the Tiger shells. Here's the archives link;
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For my NES with a new connector, I don't have to push the cart down for it to play games. I've had it for a while and since I don't use it much, the connector still isn't broke in.
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Very neat! Wonder if someone will try and make that 2D Breath of the Wild.
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I've never got into chip flashing, but if swapping the OS bin file for the official OS file doesn't work, then I would think flashing could work. I may be wrong, but I think you can flash the current chip, unless it got damaged in the outage.
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in my case I would make the replacement of the flash memory of the super everdrive china board, after this procedure I need to write the OS and the firmware in the new flash memory would I have to use the OS and the fimware Jack Diy to be compatible with board?
Pop the SD in a computer and in the SPED folder there should be an OS.bin file. Move that out and drag and drop the v11 or 12 in and try. If that doesn't work, you may have to hunt down Jack DIY and try to get that OS.
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PC Build for Emulation
in Emulation
Posted
I feel like I've seen this setup. You by chance frequent r/pcmasterrace?