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Posts posted by DavidMil
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On 5/22/2021 at 12:34 PM, BillC said:When I took an electronics course I connected a 3906 transistor with the circuit wired for a 3904, the "crack" as it failed was heard by the entire class.
Had a similar experience in my second semester of electronics class. Working on a 12V breadboard I accidently plugged a 470uF radial electrolytic cap in
backwards. When I hit the on switch I heard the sound of sizzling bacon for a second. About the time I realized what I had done and was reaching for the
power switch, the top of the cap blew open and it's super hot guts flew into the air including on the bottom of my forearm. To this day I'm not sure if I was
madder because of doing something so dumb and getting laughed at by my fellow classmates, or the little scars it left on my arm.
DavidMil
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9 hours ago, Mathy said:Hello Andreas, MausR
If you want to order from Simius, he prefers it if you do so via a private message.
BTW MausR, have a look at my Atari 8 bit meetings page.
Sincerely
Mathy
Mathy,
When I click on the link you provided, McAfee say that the link has been compromised and someone is monitoring that link.
Then McAfee say it is not safe and won't let me continue to the site. You're not trying to steal all my super high level Atari A8
secrets are you?
David
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17 hours ago, Mclaneinc said:Yes please David...For what little SMD work I've done I've used a lot of flux but a tutorial from a pro would be excellent..
As a general rule of thumb I don't usually care for people how like to think of themselves as experts; but 'pro' I can handle.
Let me see what I can put together...
David
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I should make a video about soldering surface mount components. A trick I picked up while working for Compaq in
one of the manufacturing buildings (CCM4). I NEVER have any solder bridges when soldering multi legged components.
It involves a LOT of liquid flux and a lot of 99% Isopropyl Alcohol. If anyone is interested I'll explain it here (or in another
thread if anyone wants).
DavidMil
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Many years ago (my wife is looking over my should and asked if this was going to be one of my caveman stories). No Dear,
not that many years... I wanted to build a 6502 processor using through-hole components. I gave that up when a little research
pointed out that I would need approximately 4478 additional transistors to go with the 50 that I had, and 1019 resistors. What
brought all this on was when I came across this interesting site:
www.monster6502.com
And it reminded me of that old idea I had. (My wife is laughing now, but she's asking how come I can remember something
from 35 years ago, and can't remember what she asked me to do yesterday! I'm now playing confused...). Reading down
in the article, I noticed that to use through-hole components I would need a surface area of over a square meter. Anyway
this is an interesting article.
DavidMil
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Wow! Looks like somebody with some serious wire wrapping skill and a lot of spare time made a very interesting project!
DavidMil
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I know this has been kicked around before but: Is it worth swapping out a C012399B for a fast chip in an old 800. And does anyone have a
program that allows the two chips to run a stress test one after the other (I know that a power down and a physical swap of the two chips
would be needed between tests) so someone could compare the results?
Thank you,
DavidMil
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I've come across a couple of Odyssey 2 games that are in perfect condition (including the boxes). "Conquest Of The World", and "The Great Wall Street
Fortune Hunt". The latter is still in plastic wrap with the price tag on it (it started out as $42.?5, was then reduced to $23.99 and finally to $11.99. It
looks like the price tag says JOSKE'S. Conquest of the world has all the pieces including red and blue markers that say 500 and 1000 on them, 6 different
colored squares of 44 little magnetic squares. The Cartridge, rules and the gameboard is in the box. I can post some pictures if anyone is interested.
I'm wondering if it would be worth my time to put them out on EBAY.
DavidMil
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Wasn't there a software package made to create BBS's? I think it was called, "BBS Construction Set"?
DavidMil
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21 hours ago, Mclaneinc said:Glad you are finding more stuff and sharing it with the community, hopefully those last two boxes will yield some treasures..
Hello Paul!
I need to get them before it gets much hotter. When it's 90F degrees outside (about 32C) the attic is around 120F (50C). There was
time when that didn't bother me that much, but not now! I always enjoy hearing from you!
Stay well!
David
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9 hours ago, Sugarland said:There is a modern PIA still manufactured afaik. They cost about $2.50.
I've been buying them from Jameco, they just don't have Atari part numbers on them. Not sure about the price though.
David
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The CX85 keycaps are spoken for already. Sorry. I did find another partial set with the 0 . and 1 through 9 keys if some one would like
them let me know. They are a different keycaps underneath with the square base like the 800 computer and not the flat bottoms as on
my CX85 keypad.
DavidMil
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14 hours ago, mimo said:I'd be interested in one hitec copper contact if you would be willing to let one go. I've an 800 keyboard with a non working space bar
It's easier to send a set then just one because Hi-Tek had different contactors for each key. One was a solid piece of copper with a
square end and the other one had a end that looked like little fingers. I understand that this was to allow better contact between
the ends when the key was depressed. PM me an address and I get a set in the mail to you. You are sure that the keyboard is
Hi-Tek and not Stackpole?
DavidMil
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In a box of old Sci Fi books I found a perfectly good 800XL motherboard without anything soldered into it. I think it was a rev D.
I also found a complete set of keycaps for a CX85 keypad which I don't need or want so if someone is willing to reimburse me for
the postage, I'd be willing to mail them off. I also found a plastic bag with 10 sets of copper contacts and springs that are used in
Hi-Tek keyboards for Atari 800 computers. Behind that box I found another slightly crushed and roach eaten cardboard box that
that had a compete torn down Atari 400 along with another 400 MB and power board as well as two 800 mother boards with all
the chips in them. After running all the pieces through the dish washer (which turned the aluminum castings dark gray), I discovered
that neither of the 400's had the cartridge guide in them. So if someone has one and is willing trade it for a PIA and/or Pokey chip, give
me a shout. After shining a flashlight around I can see two more boxes pushed back in a corner. But the roof is so low over there I'll
have to squirm over there on my belly, and I'd hate to get stuck up there. It seems that to counter balance all the lost hair on my
head, my stomach has gotten a lot bigger! (sigh)...
DavidMil
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6 hours ago, damanloox said:ok, thanks guys. Could somebody scan PAL 600XL label for me? I have a picture so will be able to "recover" serial number but my label (or what's left) is not really "suitable" for scanning...
@DavidMil: labelway.com don't seem to ship outside CA/US... Any chance you could send me a few sheets (I'm in Dublin/Ireland)? We can discuss the price via PM...?
I can send you a few sheets, if you'll pay for the shipping.
David
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Please tell me that the 1946 on the last line is part of the device info and not the date....
DavidMil
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I always put a piece of plastic taped to the bottom of any Atari device that I run through the dish washer to clean. Sometimes the tape doesn't
stay attached and the label is either washed off or faded to the point of useless. So after that happened the first time, I now scan the bottom
plastic on my color scanner before washing it. I have since lost two other labels this way and had to replace them. I found an exact match to
the size and shape of the Atari labels at LABELWAY.com. The part number for this box of labels is LW3115. They are 2-3/4" x 1-7/8" with rounded
corners (remember that almost all Atari labels have rounded corners).
DavidMil
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Hello Bobby,
If you're offering the keyboard with the caps for that price; sure I'll take them. Either way $50.00 is ok.
Do you have any idea what shipping will be? Do you want me to mail you a check or do you have a
Paypal account?
Have a good day!
DavidMil
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Very cool! How much you want for it?
David
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I'm looking for some non-working Atari 800 keyboards. I'm not interested in the keycaps so you can keep them if you want.
HI TEK or STACK POLE
Thanks,
DavidMil
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On 5/7/2021 at 11:01 PM, Nezgar said:@DavidMil Right! Wow look at that. I think I may remember you mentioning this now prior to your hiatus - and welcome back by the way!
I would very much like to get that dumped. I'll PM you.
I sent the dumps for both chips to Nezgar. He is currently evaluating both of them.
David

Need a soldering refresher? First time soldering?
in Atari 8-Bit Computers
Posted
I tried using my cheap little USB camera to get close enough to see the .7mm wide legs with .5mm spacing on a ULN2003A surface mount
IC. I had to get the lens of the camera so close to the IC that there was no room for my soldering iron! Anyway I've ordered one of those
$50 USB digital microscopes. Should be here by Sunday. I'll get a good video after that!
About the flux... You need a liquid flux that is made specifically for electronics or communications. I myself prefer an alcohol based flux.
NEVER use a rosin based flux unless you are sure you can get it all off, or in a few weeks to a few months strange things will start happening
to your electrical pulses. It's best to avoid rosin flux all together for electronic repairs! And lastly, I've never worked with water based fluxes,
but some people swear by them. What ever you get, don't try to use a brush on your board. I'm a diabetic and after they went to the new flex
pens, I had about 200 .5cc syringes left over that I now use to draw flux from the 4oz bottle and drip onto the circuit board. You will see that
in the video.
One more thing... I have seen in several soldering videos, the person doing the video will use the soldering iron to smear the flux or solder
around the pad. PLEASE DON"T DO THIS!!! That is the best way to lift a pad that I know of ( well, besides pressing down on the pad to
transfer heat to the pad from the soldering iron). Don't be afraid to cover the pad in flux, but it's best to do that after the IC has been placed
on the board. Again, you'll see this in the video.
DavidMil