DavidMil
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Posts posted by DavidMil
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Because I couldn't find a parts list from Atari and no silkscreen on the board, I used the silkscreen in the Field service manual and the parts
on the modem itself to make a list of the parts in the 835. Below is the attached list of parts in PDF format. A few have Atari part numbers,
but most don't.
David
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Not talking about anything to do with the power supply. BillC is correct in that this is an isolation transformer. It separate's the modem from phone line.
I guess what I'm asking is for any sources to find replacements. Neither Best or My Atari has any.
Sorry for the misunderstanding,
David
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Does anyone have any information about the transformer (T1) in the 835 Modem? The parts list in the 835 Field Service manual
is a joke. It only lists 18 parts (no Caps, Resistors or transistors) including the phone cord and the Telelink II Cartridge. All the info listed for the Transformer is
a part number: FC100283, and a description: Transformer, 600 ohm. I've ohmed out both of my 835's and both read about
180 ohms on the phone side and 75 ohms on the modem side. Both of the transformers have these numbers stamped into the
metal on top of the transformers: 94-100-049
549-8340G
If anyone can shed some light on this part I would be VERY grateful.
Thank you,
David
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No, it looks like they just scanned the Atari version into a PDF without fixing any errors.
David
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One thing I've always been is a collector of documentation. Some is reprinted from Atari Mania, and some has been purchased from Best
over the years. I actually have an original version of the 1200XL Field Service Manual. I've got the PDF version too. To be honest, I
didn't think about looking at the PDF version to see if any of the errors had be fixed. I'll take a look at that tonight. I'll let you know what I find!
Thanks,
David
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I'm sorry, I also didn't realize I was still on the fist page. Well done!
David
PS I love mouser too!
DM
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I agree with DrVenkman. I'd look at the sockets real hard. Atari was known for putting cheap sockets in their computers. I have on occasion even
pulled socket pieces up still attached to the IC pins when removing IC's. I think I posted some pictures of that about 3 or four years ago.
Plug the chips in and test for continuity between the top of the pins coming out of the IC's and the under side of the motherboard. I would stand
the board on edge and wedge it up with a couple of heavy books to do this testing.
David
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I wanted to add a couple of pictures of the Hi tek plungers that I did a 3D print of. Like I said, they work beautifully in the keyboard,
but the inside is to tight for the keycaps to fit in.
David
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I've run into a wall with this project, but I haven't given up yet. The company that did the original scans for me is no longer in business.
And the first samples they sent me work fine in the keyboards, but the inside opening is too small for the key caps to fit in. I sent
the CAD files to another company, but they said that the files are locked and cannot be modified. I checked around and the cheapest that
anyone else would rescan the parts was over 500 dollars each! So I've been looking at buying a 3D scanner that can scan parts that small, but
the cheapest one I can find is over $1500. I even bought a Prusa i3 MK3+ 3D printer for my Christmas Present. I tried to modify the 3D
print file created from the CAD file but that was a disaster.
David
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Well right off the bat BillC caused me to find an error in my schematics...
Q2 and Q4 should be 2N3906's and not 04's. Very nice blowup buy the way, BillC!
Things in the schematics that I could not figure out I left as is, and I have no way to check on the larger ROM chips.
I had to blow up the drawing 511% but I finally figured out all the notes and the table on the left of Page 1. This revision
to the schematics was done with Windows 10 and Paint 3D. I moved the traces around between the two pages to get them
all aligned. I printed them out on my HP OfficeJet Pro 8600 and on my old LJ 4000 and they lined up very well. Also did a PDF
version but they were slightly off.
Please continue to let me know about other mistakes. Some of my work kept me up after 3 AM, when I started seeing double!
I'd hold off a while on adding them to you Library Mathy (nice to hear from you again).
Here is the corrected page 1.
David
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Thank you both for the kind words. Just being back and reading through all the new posts makes me want to get involved again!
As promised here are the cleaned up 1200XL schematics, and the revised Imperium Galactum star map. The three worst problems
I found in the 1200XL schematics where:
1. The Electrolytic Cap C155 goes to pin 8 on the SIO connector. Not pin 10 as the old schematics show.
2. The original schematics shows that the collectors of both Q17 and Q18 are tied together. On my 1200XL (Rev 13A) the Emitter
of Q17 is tied to the collector of Q18.
3. The Collector of Q4 does not tie to the Emitter of Q2 as shown in the original schematics. The Emitters of both Q2 and Q4 are tied
together.
I don't know if these changes were done in a revision or if it's an error on the schematics, but I've ohmed them out to verify the
differences.
And here is my colorful revision to the star map in Imperium Galactum
Later!
DavidMil
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Enjoyed the read Mark! Back in the early 80's my wife and I sent a lot of pictures and forts to a company that had a contest going.
You may have heard of them... ClipArt. Anyway, after we sent them in (and never heard back), we bought a book and disk from them.
And there in the book and on the disk, were several of our pictures. When we called ClipArt about it, they said that it was in the fine
print in the rules that all submissions became the property of ClipArt. That was the first baby step for us; teaching us that piracy was
a two headed axe!
DavidMil
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First let me say that I'm sorry to have been gone for so long. It's been a bad couple of years for me. Between floods, loosing a brother to Covid, and depression
because both my wife and I are rather old and have compromised health and have been shut in the house for a year now; it just all got me down! Then Mr.
Mclaneinc and The Doc sent me emails (concerned about me) and a lot of badgering from the wife, and now I'm back. So Hello Everyone. I've got a LOT of
catchup reading to do.
I've been cleaning up the 1200XL schematic's and I found several problems with the original ones. I'll post my cleaned up version tomorrow. Also found
a couple of errors in the 835 revised schematics. I updated the Star Map in 'Imperium Galactum', which I can post if anyone is interested. And lastly you would
think that a 69 year old man wouldn't get mad and throw his best joystick down in anger for getting killed over and over again in Zaxxon (a game which I was
very good at 35 years ago), but I did. I was even madder(?) when I discovered that my tantrum caused the white wire in the cable to break. My wife laughed
when I told her about it (which really didn't help matters)!
Anyway, I'll get busy reading now. I hope everyone is well!
David
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How many different versions of Archiver are there? I came across a disk that has Archiver 2.0, and it
allows you to copy to or from a cassette to disk. It also has an option to run version 2.0, or the version
I remember 1.2.
DavidMil
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On 9/17/2019 at 3:35 AM, toddtmw said:@DavidMil you might want to see if you can find someone with a resin printer that can print this.
They actually aren't that expensive, but it looks to me like the resin they use is more toxic than PLA printer filament.
I know now very little about them, but looking at the specs, it looks like they can print things that are much finer than a filament printer.
I had never heard of a resin printer before you mentioned them. I looked them up and they are very different. They use a light beam
to activate the resin and cause it to solidify to a surface that is continually raised. A light beam can certainly be made much smalled
than a extruder nozzle. Very interesting! They must be more expensive because all the sites that I looked at want you to call for a quote.
David
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On 8/3/2019 at 9:58 PM, DavidMil said:I've sent off a couple of 800 Hi-Tek plungers to a 3D scanning company and I now have good stp and jgs files that I will be using
when I get a 3D printer in a few months to try and start making new plungers.
David
Brad at Best Electronics was kind enough to send me a couple of Stackpole plungers. I'll be sending them off to get scanned too.
Below is a couple of pictures of Stackpole (yellow) and Hi Tek plungers (white).
David
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8 hours ago, _The Doctor__ said:Of course I'll help out. I'll clean and extract from the disks all that I can.
Thank you Doc. I'll try and get them in the mail Monday or Tuesday at the latest.
DavidMil
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On 9/11/2019 at 4:44 PM, _The Doctor__ said:certainly a good idea, never know what you will find... a couple people are playing around with BBCS as we speak so your timing is perfect.
if you wish I've got Double Density drive both single sided and double sided to read the disks if you wish I could do it for you.
Do you have an idea why the modem isn't happy?
You could modify the topic and say I just bought an 835 w/ BBCS off ebay...
and put the dumps right here.
The modem had a bad TMS99532NL 300 baud modem chip in it. When I replaced it with my know good one it blew that one too.
When I get a chance I'm going to start checking voltage first. In the mean time I've ordered 22 from UT Source for 72 cents each.
Doc, can I send you all eight disks to look at? I've got more people coming next week to work on replacing some cabinets we have
discovered have mold on the bottom of them. And to top things off, my middle finger on my right hand has developed 'trigger
finger'. I didn't know it could make your hole hand hurt all the way to the wrist, and prevent it from closing tightly.
DavidMil
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I just bought a non-working 835 modem from eBay and it came with 7 floppies.
One half of the set says DD at the top and my 1050 can't read them. All say
BBSC Construction Set, or Docs, or Samples. Also half are marked 835 and the
others are marked Smartmodem. Anyway the ones I can boot say:
Antic Software
BB Construction Set Ver. 2.2 by Scott Brause
The one for the 835 has AMODEM 42, and TSCOPE, and DLINK
Anyway, does anyone have any use for these Disks? If so I'll put Zipped versions
out there (I just need to know where would be best).
DavidMil
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14 hours ago, kheller2 said:Schematics are at the museum : http://www.atarimuseum.com/computers/8BITS/XL/xlperipherals/1090xl.html
That is great! I can get about all the parts info from that.
Thank you,
David
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Has anyone ever seen or heard of a 1090XL parts list? I've got some good pictures looking down on the board, but
I really need a parts list.
Thanks,
DavidMil
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On 8/31/2019 at 7:03 PM, Gunstar said:It looks to me like the space bar is on backwards. If the space bar was the same color as the other keys, if it had all the function buttons and if the screws were hidden/disguised I think it would look pretty good.
My guess would be this is a DIY project using some old terminal keyboard case and keys, a DIY circuit board, judging by the keyboard layout (return key inside arrow keys, wrong sized CAPS key, etc.) and wiring it up to work like an Atari keyboard for the 400 via a custom cable that isn't included.
It looks like they took a keyboard off of an old terminal (like a Vax or something), and tried to modify it to work with an Atari computer.
David
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On 9/6/2019 at 11:48 AM, Dubis7 said:Looking for a replacement top and bottom shell for my 1979 style Atari 800. If anyone has one, or a parts unit I could pull the shell off of, let me know. I'm open to negotiating on price. Thanks!
I think that myatari might have a few left. You'll have to send Bruce an email and ask him. They will be NOS, but they will be in
perfect condition.
DavidMil
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20 hours ago, DrVenkman said:Looking forward to hearing your progress. I have a friend here locally who has some pretty nice 3D printers as a hobby/side business, including one that does very high-resolution resin printing (look at the buttons on this 5200 controller case he designed). If the resin is tough enough for use on a plunger, it might be ideal. Probably expensive though, but maybe worth it. Note the surface finish on the (resin) buttons, and the detail on in the printed-in numbers as compared to the more usual PLA used for the majority of the shell.
Are those numbers recessed, or a different color?
David
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800 Keyboard plungers (both types)
in Atari 8-Bit Computers
Posted
The out side measurements are perfect. It is the inside opening on the top half of the plunger that the keycap is supposed to push into that is too
small. The inside opening needs to be a square opening of 6.82mm minimum. The inside opening on my plungers is 6.55 not much of difference
(.27mm) but enough to split the plunger each time I would try to force the keycap into it. I tried to soften up the plunger with heat before I
pushed the keycap into it and that worked beautifully... The problem then arose that the plunger was too large to go into the socket
on the keyboard and after you pushed the plunger into the keyboard it stuck in the down position. Which in my case left two lines of "ccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccc
ccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccc" across the screen before I gave up trying to pull the key up and turned off my 800.
Remember that the .27mm is both top to bottom and .27mm left to right. To make the opening big enough to allow the keycap to fit, I have to
file off .135mm of all four sides. So I'm working on it.
Mclaneinc, did yo mean that you had a source for the yellow Stackpole Plungers?
David