DavidMil

Check the three inductors (L1, L2, L3) to make sure that 5volts is going to all three of the 5 Volt rails. Does it look like anyone has done any after market modifications on the computer? DavidMil

In the 5200 Schematics section there is a separate set of schematics for the "Atari 5200 Super Game" Looking at the component placement page, it is almost identical to the four port version. There are a few more components and the placement of some of them is different. DavidMil

Can someone tell me what the difference is between the 5200 Super Game and the 5200 4 port version? Both have 4 ports. DavidMil

You can buy new brushed aluminum cap covers from Best Elect. to replace any damaged aluminum function keys. Just use you finger nail to peel back the edge of the aluminum cover on existing function keys, then pull the aluminum cover off. Use something like Isopropyl alcohol to completely clean any sticky off of the plastic key. Then use something like a hat pin to remove the Very Thin plastic cover off the underside of the replacement aluminum cap, center it up and stick it on. Press down a little to make sure it's well stuck. Clean keyboards and new function keys really improve the appearance of your Atari product! They are about $2.50 each from Best. DavidMil

No Problem...

There was also an old IBM 1/2 height, black face drive in the plastic container and I was wondering why it was in with the Atari stuff. Maybe if I keep digging around up there I'll find the rest of the Percom unit?. Worth a try... Thanks everyone for your knowledge! DavidMil

That is a different arrangement them on my Omnimon board. I only have two wires that are connected to S2 switch 4 and go to the manual switch. And it looks like there are some modifications on the motherboard that I have never seen. DavidMil

Ok, we've been telling you to do a lot of things, so can I get you to recap (list) what components have lifted legs or have been removed totally? Also when you are ohming things out, where are you putting the ground lead? DavidMil

I think it was replaced with another board. If you look closely at the left side SIO connector you can see that pin 12 is missing. I don't suppose anyone has any schematics? DaviMil

I can't see how that switch has anything to do with the Omnimon board. Do you have the Omnimon that plugs into the Atari ROM board or the entire Omnimon ROM board that replaces the Atari ROM board? Can you show us a picture of where the wires actually attach to the board? DavidMil

I found another mystery board mixed in with all the other Atari stuff in my attic yesterday. I'm wondering if this may be something for an ST but with the dual 13 pin SIO connectors, I'm miffed. It has a 6809 processor and a 17 pin dual pin dual connector as well as a four pin Molex connector (see pics). One complete row of the 17 pin connector is tied to ground as well as pins 4 and 6 on the SIO connector. The board also has two 7805 (5V) regulators and a 7812 (12V) regulator. One 7805 and the 7812 regulators supply the Molex connector. The other 7805 supplies the rest of the board. The EPROM window is covered with a sticker that has AT88 V. 1.3 The three large chips have the following designation's: 40 Pin F68A09P 40 pin F6821P 24 PIN F6850P I'm open for suggestions... DavidMil

NEVER try to get an ohms reading with the power on! You can do bad things to your meter and or your board. The input voltage for VR1 goes through Q6. If Q6 has failed VR1 won't get enough power to enable regulation. Q6 doesn't have to be shorted to be bad. If raising one leg of the caps doesn't make any difference, I would check the resistance between E and B and E and C on Q6 and compare them to similar reading on Q7. When you had the voltage on did you check any of the VCC readings on the chips? DavidMil

With VR1 removed you may want to check the input voltage on the board. It's possible that one of the power transistors is bad. MJE210 (Q6 or Q7). If one is bad it may be 'starving' the VR. If one is bad, I would swap out both. Another possibility, but not as likely, you may want to look at Q8,9,10. They are all 2N3904's (very common), and usually have a very low failure rate. But at this point you want to cover all your bases. DavidMil

That bypass switch is self defeating, not sure what was up with it. And the piece of paper guarantees that the door is always closed. I always put a bypass switch in my 800's but I just put the wires into the via holes beside the door switch. Also my Omnimon has a switch to disable it so I could play games that looked for data in certain parts of RAM. DavidMil

Thanks for the mapy.atari8.info site, I never knew it existed. I'll look around for some of my old favorite games there. Thanks, David

Thanks so much for the info. The version I downloaded from Atari Mania doesn't have any intro, you just appear at the beginning screen. One of these days I may get around to taking a screen shot of every room and making a booklet out of it. Now that we are retired, my wife seems to think that I've become her personal servant. I had more time of my own when we both worked! (A word of warning to you guys thinking about retiring!) And remember: It is a scientific fact that married men live longer than single men. So guys, if you want a slow death... DavidMil

Are either of your voltage regulators (VR1 or VR2) getting very hot? Even when the power is turned off? Check the big heat sinks for temps around the VR's, don't put your finger on the VR's (you may get a nasty burn). DavidMil

I've downloaded the program twice from Atari Mania, and both times I find the same bug. I'm running it on my 800 and every time I go through a single red door on one of the lower levels the game glitches and I loose everything I am carrying. There is a large lava pool and no way to get across it in this room. However the rest of the level is still lite up. If any one would like I can post a couple of pictures of the room with the door and the room after it. I many try this on my 130 XE to see if the problem replicates there too. Anyone else having this problem? DavidMil

Cool. I'll put this in my happy drive folder. Thanks, David

Both best and myatari are out of 800XL shields. Believe me, I tried them first. The fine steel wool is an idea. I use it to get a shine on wood surfaces. I'll try it first and let you know what happens. David

Well the Arm & Hammer Super Washing Soda remove all the rust. The problem is that where there was rust now there is just a black spot on the shielding. I guess I have to nickel plate after all (I was trying to avoid that). Anyway, I've attached before and after pictures of the first RF shield that I tested. DavidMil

I think the idea was to not have a slot on top as it might look too much like a game machine and not a true computer. Without the slot on top it does look more like a business computer. DavidMil

There is a R to the right of the Atari. Like I said, I've never even touched a 1200XL before I got this unit, so I'm a deferent newbie here. Here is a screen shot... DavidMil

The 1200XL I bought off of ebay a while back was sold for parts as it didn't have a power supply or keyboard. This is the one I've been asking questions about for a couple of weeks now. IE. Only one 28 pin socket and misplaced jumpers. Well, I got it to boot up to the Rainbow Atari logo and I can get a ready prompt with Basic installed, and it boots up to MyDos too. I just don't have a keyboard to do anything with. Here's my latest problem,,, I talked to DrVenkman and he has never heard of a keyboard connector on a 1200XL like the one on this machine. It is not a mylar ribbon type connector but rather a old Atari 800 style connector (see picture). Has anybody ever seen one like this? The board says C060585 Rev 13A. DavidMil

I wanted to let you know that I installed the Rambo XL in my last 800XL today. It worked beautifully. Thanks for the help folks! David