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About Polymorph

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    Star Raider

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    Apple II
    Atari ST

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  1. I've got a couple of Taiwanese Softcard clones, plus a couple of PCPI Applicard's (one's a clone I think). I don't recall which version of CP/M each uses. For the Applicard(s), I generally use the official CP/M version released with the card. The CP/M bug hasn't really bitten me yet. For me, CP/M is a solution begging for a problem I've yet to find. 🙂 I've made a few attempts to "get into" CP/M, but I find my enthusiasm quickly fades and I move onto something else.
  2. It could be a bus timing issue. I've heard that the original Softcard design was very tightly coupled to the original Apple II (and II+) bus timing. Starting with the //e design, the bus timing changed a little bit (so small most cards don't care), but the CP/M card you have may have fallen victim to this. FYI: Microsoft actually released a CP/M card (the Softcard //e) specifically for the Apple //e.
  3. Actually, Ciderpress can save/load CFFA partitions to/from a CF card via the Volume Copier. I've been backing up my original CFFA partitions for well over 10 years using this feature (it probably works for CFFA3000 images too if you use raw partitions (I use disk images on my CFFA3000 however)). But yes, I too open multiple Ciderpress windows to copy paste between images. Whilst Ciderpress is a bit odd at first in the way you need to do things, once you get the hang of it, it's a very powerful tool (I actually paid for it back before it became freeware).
  4. I can attest to this because I had a similar problem just in the last week. I have a clone //e as well and I had previously enhanced it by burning my own ROMs and upgrading the processor and it had been happily running everything I had thrown at it. However, when testing a new aux RAM card I tried running ProTerm (and PublishIt!) and got errors stating my machine wasn't enhanced. After much swearing and gnashing of teeth, I discovered that the cheap 65C02 that I had purchased off eBay was a fake - most probably a 6502 sanded and relabelled. After swapping in a genuine 65C02 both apps were happy. So both of these apps must look at the processor level (opcode tests) to determine whether you have a 65C02 or not.
  5. The original Apple ][ and ][+ machines had the defacto rule that slot 3 (50 pin) was for an 80 column card. The Apple //e was designed with a special slot (the Aux slot - 60 pin) which provided both an additional 64Kb and 80 columns. The //e was designed such that it was backwards compatible (as was Apple's way) to mimic the earlier machines - so PR#3 does indeed activate the 80 column card in the //e. As another poster mentioned, the *real* slot 3 was usually left empty.
  6. No, no, no! Do *not* attempt to put the 80 column card anywhere but in the aux memory slot. It will not work anywhere else as the aux slot has a very different pin assignment. Try removing the disk interface card and retest the 80 columns and try and isolate which card might have the fault. If the 80 column mode is still flakey after removing the disk interface, try spraying some contact cleaner into the aux slot (with the computer turned off!). Also try cleaning the fingers on both the 80 col card and the disk interface card with a pencil eraser to make sure that there is good contact between the card and the slot. Also inspect the slots for any debris, or bent slot contacts. Let us know how you get on. Hopefully you will be able to identify which card causes the instability. Cheers, Mike
  7. Just a heads-up, I'm pretty sure all Apple II and II+ machines were painted that colour which is why you don't see them yellowed. Even the real early //e machines were painted, but they switched at some point fairly early on in the //e life cycle to using coloured moulded plastic which *does* yellow (as we all know too well!).
  8. Speedway Classic was another racing game I used to enjoy playing back in the day too. Not first person though.
  9. Glad to hear you got the display working. With regards to the keyboard, sometimes you can get the keys working again by applying a little contact cleaner down the key stem and working the key up and down for many repetitions (like a hundred or so). Other times you have to fully desolder the key switch and open it up to adjust/clean. If the key is not working at all, like in the case of your 'T' key, I suspect you are going to have to resort to the latter option and open up the key switch. Upon opening the key switch, you may need to gently bend some of the metal contacts such that they make contact again. Good luck, and let us know how you get on.
  10. Yeah I agree. If you look really closely you will see what appears to be part of a Videx 80 column card (or clone) in the bottom left of the bottom picture which lends weight to the unknown card not being an 80 column card (why would you have 2?). It might be an RGB card, but it is unlike any I've seen. It almost looks home-brew except its so well laid out.
  11. The original poster mentioned that this is an Apple II+ and this is also clear by looking at the keyboard and case slot access cutouts. There is no 80 column expansion slot in an Apple II+ either. As for identifying those cards - no idea sorry, there's an awful lot of 7400 series logic chips on there though...
  12. I would dispute this due to all my Apple's having their original RAM - with the exception of my 1981 Apple II+ which had one bad DRAM chip. In fact of all the vintage machines I own, the Apple II's are generally the best built and need the least repairs.
  13. Sounds like you have a marginal component somewhere on your motherboard that fails when it gets hot (which is pretty common). To find the culprit I would suggest using freeze spray in isolated areas of the board until the problem goes away. Then you can "hone" in further to find the faulty part. I would suggest starting with the RAM as that looks to be the most likely cause of failure.
  14. Yes, in fact System Software 6.0.4 has been out for nearly 2 years now: https://a2central.com/7396/the-source-is-strong-with-this-one-system-6-0-4/
  15. Yeah, I'm pretty sure the ebay auction said that it had been stored outside in a shed for many years; and it really showed. Even the box it arrived in had bits falling out everywhere. I was actually reluctant at first to put my hand inside it for fear of what I might find. Thankfully it was pretty much just dirt/debris and some remains left by spiders.
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