displaced
-
Content Count
57 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Posts posted by displaced
-
-
On 11/30/2020 at 7:55 PM, leech said:Ha, yeah I had thought of making a 3d model of the piece myself, but haven't really seen (though not really looked) for some greenish translucent PLA. It's like I wanted to make a new Jaguar CD hook, I ordered one from best, I'm just hoping he didn't take apart a JagCD to sell me one! We really should get some of us together and just make 3d printable parts for some of the most common things that break!
I think someone actually started their own model of the hard drive cover itself, but for holding the Internal Ultra Satan, I need to see if that got finished, and print one up, as I've had an internal one for quite some time, and just haven't installed it...
I think on my travels I saw that STL for the entire HD cover. Nice to know it’s there in case of future accidents!
I’ve made the model for the LED cover - was pretty straightforward - am happy Atari chose a regular 45° angle for their parallelograms! I’ve done a few test prints, but my printer’s suffering a bit for having been moved about and gone unused for quite a few months, so I haven’t yet got a clean, accurate print yet.Oddly, the existing cover for the power LED on my MSTE is clear, untinted plastic. I mean, it’s not ‘crystal-clear’, but it’s definitely only slightly opaque, not coloured at all. So a translucent PLA might give a suitable result.
I did print the bracket for the power LED and fitted a modern 5mm green LED. It’s a much richer colour than the floppy LED, but I really like how it looks. Seriously considering swapping the LED on the floppy drive so that it matches
(sure, it’s not 100% true to how the machine came from the factory, but at least I’m not using blue LEDs!)
-
3 hours ago, leech said:Nice! Yeah, I need one of those lenses as well for the floppy drive. My TT was always missing it. if you figure out a good way to make them, that would be sweet!
Cool! Yeah - it seems the only source I’ve found for them is Best Electronics - and they get them by ripping apart new-old-stock TT drive covers. That’s a) expensive and b) a shame!
I’ve got two ideas - the first, as mentioned, is to 3D print a mould to pour resin into. After hardening, it should then be possible to lightly sand it to fit nicely.
The other option is to 3D print the cover itself, with a clear plastic filament.
The first option will need a more complex 3D model to product the mould, probably with holes to allow the air to escape whilst filling with resin.
...but the second option would also be tricky - clear 3D prints need a really well calibrated printer to be successful, and the filament is tricky to get a decent print with.
Either way, I need to get the digital callipers and angle measure out
-
Just wanted to pop by a say a big thanks for making the bracket STL available!
I’d already soldered an LED to some wire, put the DuPont connector on the end and was pondering how to fit it to the case. Then I did a couple of google searches - first, how did the LED usually fit, then second, had someone made a 3D printable model?
That took me to your work and, 20 mins later, my Mega STE has its power light back!
One quick question - do you know of any source for the clear plastic lens that fits inside the hole in the case? My machine’s missing it from the hard drive cover.
If it comes to it, I’ll try 3D printing a mould to pour some clear resin into, but it’d be nice to get the proper part!
-
1 hour ago, siccoyote said:I like this method because it requires that I do barely anything and have to buy nothing.
I'm in the UK, Heat and Sun are in short supply. But I am willing to leave a tub of keys outside for weeks and just see what happens. Even if it's not back to mint condition it's better than nothing, and worth the amount of effort put into it.
That's the Before, lets see in a couple of weeks. I've kept the space bar on the keyboard as a control.
I did the same with my XEGS in the UK last year. Took a good couple of weeks but there was a noticeable improvement!
-
1
-
-
In case it helps, the buzzing/hissing from around the processors is normal - my fully-working Jag does the same - and always has since I bought it on release.
In fact, it’s probably a good sign - shows activity!
-
D’oh! I’d spotted this late last year - thought I’d treat myself for my 40th birthday (end of this month - Jan).
Just seen the discontinuation announcement!
Oh well - snoozing and losing and all that!
-
I’ve got the code finished, with pin state changes being properly reflected on each Arduino via Bluetooth LE. Pins 1-4 on the Jag side set pins 1-4 on the controller, with all other pins operating in the other direction.
Just soldering up the DB15HD plug and socket, plus the Arduino to some veroboard. Words can’t quite express how much I hate soldering a full DB15!
On the subject of powering the Jag-side Arduino. Although they work fine with 5V on the VIN pin, the board’s regulator is indeed lowering the voltage on the digital pins to ~3.5V, which is too low for TTL.
The Nano doc’s show that already-regulated power can be fed to the 5V pin, which bypasses the nano’s regulator. If the 5V on the controller port is stable enough for the Jaguar, it should be fine for the Nano, so I’ll switch to using that pin. Gives a stable 5V on the digital pins when running with the bench PSU.
-
2
-
-
Hi Stephen,
Like most of these ideas, it comes from my own desire. My Jaguar’s connected via an OSSC to a big TV that’s about 4 metres from where I sit, and I like to avoid extension cables if possible.
On my breadboard right now two idle BLE-Nano boards are taking 20mA according to my bench PSU, so the jag’s port should power the ‘receiver’ Nano fine. The Nano has a VIN pin for power input which is regulated and accepts 6V to 20V. 5V may be a little low for that, but they’re behaving fine on the bench.
On the controller side, I’d be happy with the jagpad’s lead shortened and plugged into a box containing the Nano, battery and charge controller. I could even forego the battery and power via Micro USB (my chair on the other side of the room has a USB multi-way charger beside it). Sure, it wouldn’t be wireless, but stowing away a 0.5m micro usb lead is neater than finding somewhere for 4 metres of 15-way cable that would otherwise be draped across the room.
As for team-taps, I’m very unlikely to ever want one - pretty much just building this for my own convenience. And it gives me an excuse to play with some Arduinos and, if it all works out, design and 3D print some enclosures.
-
Thanks, Zerosquare!
All that makes sense. Slightly concerned about the team-tap bit, since if the jag and Arduino have differing ideas about pin directions, nastiness could happen. I don’t mind losing team-tap compatibility, so maybe I’ll use some diodes to prevent the jag outputting on pins that are nominally inputs.
Im using Bluetooth 4.0 LE which apparently has massively better latency. I’m not expecting my simple approach to work, but I’ll start with it just to see how badly it doesn’t work (if that makes sense!). Then I’ll fiddle with state caching to see what happens.
I want to try something similar with the simple CX40 joystick on my XEGS too. Perhaps I should start there to keep things simple!
-
2
-
-
ure Hi!
I have a couple of Arduino Nano boards with bluetooth which I'm eyeing for a project. Thought I'd mention it here in case it's a stupid idea...
I was thinking I could connect one Nano to the Jaguar's controller port, and connect another Nano to a controller. Then, via Bluetooth, replicate the controller's signals to the Jag, essentially turning any Jaguar controller wireless.
Now, technically there's nothing magic here. The Arduino code's quite straightforward. But I'm assuming that this won't work for reasons I don't yet know
I've been researching how the Jag's controller works, since there's clearly more buttons than signal lines on the port. So it would appear that the connection is bidirectional - the Jag sets pins 1-4 to choose what group of buttons it wants to read, then reads their state on other pins. I'm not actually replicating a controller, rather, just trying to reflect the pin states between the two Arduinos over bluetooth -- so I don't really care about the nitty-gritty.
So it would seem that the Jag-side Arduino should have pins 1-4 as inputs and the others as outputs, whilst the controller-side Arduino would have 1-4 as outputs and the others as inputs (to read from the controller). All I need to do is watch for changes on the signals and ping BT messages back and forth to reflect those changes on the other end.
Has this been tried before? Is there a glaring reason why it won't work? If it does work, would anyone else be interested?
(I'm imagining there being a little Arduino dongle that'll connect to and be powered by the Jag. Then, a little box with a DB15 socket for the controller to plug into, and a micro-USB for charging a battery for the controller-side nano. If it does work well, I could see if I could fit the 'duino and a battery pack inside the shell of the controller)
[edit: The glaring issue I can foresee is lag. If the Jag sets pin1 and assumes it can scan other pins straight away to get button states, it may well not be happy about the delay introduced by bluetooth. The best way to find out is to try, I suppose!]
-
3
-
-
Ah, superb -- thanks very much indeed!
Didn't realise the ATR support depended on a driver supplied by U1MB - that bit of info makes what I'd been reading make more sense now. Knew I was missing something...
At the moment I can't quite justify a U1MB purchase, even though it's objectively a very nifty bit of kit - especially after having just bought the XEGS and VBXE! Perhaps after some future payday.
Cheers!
-
Hi,
I've read a load of threads here on this subject - just wanted to coalesce it here to make sure I've got the right end of the stick...
The Aim
- Upgrade my SIDE2 firmware to the latest version on my 64K XEGS with VBXE
The Problem
- SIDE2 firmware is supplied as an .ATR file. SIDELoader or SIDE2's SDX mode cannot work with ATR files/APT partitions because 64K isn't enough.
A Solution?
- The VBXE can be flashed so that it provides 320K additional 'RAMBO' memory.
So, my questions are:
- Is the above even vaguely correct, or utter nonsense?
- Could I switch the VBXE to provide RAM by upgrading it with an ATR via an SIO2PC cable?
- After doing that, would the SIDE2/SDX be able to use that RAM and allow ATR support?
- If so, could I then simply upgrade SIDE2 to the latest firmware using its own ATR support, or would that need loading via SIO2PC as well?
Thanks for your help - I'm totally new to A8's beyond having a read through the SpartaDOS X manual and a little fiddling in BASIC (and my brain works on BBC Basic at that, not Atari Basic!)
-
2 hours ago, ivop said:Oh and those people mostly filmed vertically, and were too lazy to dim their screens 😕
But your setup looks great! I assume there's a comfy couch on the other side
Partial to a bit of Neil Young too!
When smartphones were new, I did stuff like film gigs... but ended up preferring to take a few photos, a minute or two of video, then just enjoy. It’s nice to imperfectly recall seeing everything than just remembering looking through the phone’s lens.
There’s not quite room for a couch, instead there’s some IKEA seat with a footstool which is fantastic for falling asleep in whilst playing Elite
1 hour ago, kheller2 said:I dig the Lynx placeholder.
I think the Lynx stand came from an Etsy shop - nice little clear acrylic display stand thing. It’s meant for the Lynx II but my Mk. I sits there fine!
1 hour ago, Wrathchild said:I'm just imagining the Draconus or International Karate/World Karate Champ tunes coming out of those speakers 😎
I’ll make sure I get those onto the CF card!
the speakers are part of a 7.1 setup - far more than enough for the small room, but it was an absolute eBay bargain, including the amp. Mrs. Displaced and I had a fun road-trip from Kent to Devon to go pick that lot up!
I’ve wired the audio out of the XEGS so that the mono signal goes to both L and R channels on the amp. The fact that both channels are identical doesn’t give the amp much to work with for its spatial effects. But setting it to all-speaker stereo sounds pretty good.
I love hooking these old machines up to A/V gear that was the stuff of a madman’s dreams back when they were released.
Having said that, I know there’s an authenticity to playing these old machines on contemporary CRTs. Especially when game graphics took advantage of interlacing and phosphor decay to produce particular effects.
Personally though, I like to make using my old stuff every bit as convenient as playing Elite Dangerous or Battlefront II on my PC.
...and that’s my next project - turn some Arduino Nano boards into Bluetooth-to-Atari Joystick/Keyboard bridges. That’s going to be harder than I thought with the XEGS - might end up running a ribbon out from the motherboard so I can hook the Start/Option/Select/Reset lines up to the Arduino.
-
9 minutes ago, Stephen said:Wow - I bet you even hold your phone horizontally when taking videos 🤩
Crazy, I know.... 🤣
-
1
-
2
-
-
48 minutes ago, flashjazzcat said:+1 for proper aspect ratio.
Quite - can’t bear stretchy-vision on TV shows, films or games!
-
3
-
-
Made up the mini-DIN to VGA cable and plugged it all in.
I know this comes as no surprise to most of you, but as this is my first A8 and my first VBXE installation, I am well pleased with the video output quality!
I've not put any games on my SIDE2 yet, but here's a quick pic of the XEGS's self-test menu on my TV.
The XEGS goes to an Aten VS1601 16-port VGA switch. The output from that feeds an OSSC scan-converter. Then, HDMI to the TV.
Now to obtain some software!
-
5
-
-
Ah-ha!
My genius (read: pokey-fingered) wife comes to the rescue again (after helping fix the Option switch).
The smaller spring needs sits with its wide end around the bit of X-shaped plastic on the underside of the button. Then she noticed that the narrow-end of the spring was a bit out of shape. It's meant to sit on top of the metal post of the power switch without falling down it.
Bent the narrow bit back, reassembled, and perfect!
I'll take a few snaps for my other thread showing the finished article (and the amazing video output of the VBXE!)
-
1
-
-
Hmmm -- well the XEGS's power button pushes a big metal mechanical switch, rather than the small black rubber-dome switches under the other XEGS buttons. So it feels quite different anyway.
I've been scouring Google and Youtube for teardown pics/vids. No-one seems to remove the buttons, which is frustrating!
I don't want to keep experimenting too much - the latches on the buttons which hold them in place are likely to be a bit brittle with age and I'd hate for one to snap.
I think I'll keep my fingers crossed that another XEGS owner wouldn't mind confirming how their machine's power button is installed. That, or keep looking at it and wait for inspiration!
Thanks for your help though guys... It's a bit funny that I got through the ANTIC desoldering, VBXE install and RGB output install without any problems or breakage, but am falling down on a stupid button!
-
*shakes fist angrily at Atari through the mists of time*
I should've guessed that'd be the situation
Without a spring at all on my XEGS's power button, it sits really low in its recess. So there must've been something there. But after your info, I'm wondering if the smaller spring might've come from one of the four front buttons, with one of the bigger springs under the power button...
Although having said that, I think the smaller spring would fall through the inner hole of the top case. That's why I thought it was for the power switch - thought maybe it anchored to the silver post on that switch (which the other four don't have - they're just black plastic).
Hmmm....
-
Hi,
I'm done with my refurbishment and VBXE install on my XEGS and am putting the thing back together.
One tiny hiccup, which I blame on me not paying enough attention during disassembly:
I can't figure out how the power button spring is meant to be fitted!
After disassembly, I have a total of 6 spings:
- 4x Large, flared springs
- 1x Small, flared spring
- 1x Small, straight spring.
Now, the 4 are for the Start/Select/Option/Reset buttons. The one small straight spring is from the joystick fire button, which leaves the smaller flared spring for the power button.
But for the life of me I can't get it to sit right! It seems to just fall down over the power switch and the button sits low in the top case no matter what way up it sits.
If some kind soul knows off the top of their head, or wouldn't mind peeking in their own XEGS, it'd be very much appreciated!
Thanks,
Chris
-
All the XEGS stuff’s done!
Very pleased with how the 6-pin mini-DIN looks!
Unfortunately I cant build the DIN-to-VGA lead yet - the seller I got the plugs from left out part of the plug. And I don’t have any PS2 keyboards or mice to nick the cable from.
As an aside, I reckon a 4-pin mini-DIN (like s-video connectors) would work - 4 pins plus the outer shield as ground. But I prefer this as it’s a bit of a reminder that it’s *not* an s-video port!
-
5
-
-
Mini-DIN arrived today - fits absolutely perfectly in the former-RF hole in the shielding!
Here’s a couple of pics - the VBXE installation and the video-out ribbon routing. Next step is to solder the mini-DIN on the end and also to make the connection for CSYNC on CD4050.
-
2
-
-
9 minutes ago, Rybags said:I've not looked inside my 800XL at my own work for a while (almost 10 years old) but...
- fairly sure I've just got a bunch of unshielded wiring carrying the video signal with a little effort to keep it away from noise sources. The RF mod still intact, my video signal from VBXE is near perfect, unlike anything you'd have expected from any Atari.
- my choice of video connector was DE15 (as used by VGA) though different pinout. This was because I could match the output to suit an existing cable I already had for my 1084 monitor. Some people have done DIN13 as per ST then used an ST monitor. So, look at what gear you already have when considering your own options.
I also used a couple of header pins soldered where the wire might have gone directly, from memory picking off the CSync signal was done that way. More a convenience thing than function.
In the meantime I also aquired an arcade RGB 16 KHz video converter board so can use my machine now on a modern monitor via analog 31 KHz VGA (noting it's external and uncased)
Thanks for the info!
I'm using VGA connectors everywhere too. I have a 16-port VGA switch that also switches audio. I've made up a bunch of 'whatever-to-DE15' cables for all my old systems (STFM, Falcon, Jaguar, Acorn Electron). Video and audio go from each system to the VGA switch. The output of that goes to an amp for audio, and an OSSC for the video.
My one criteria is that I never make case mods! I've emptied the modulator box on my GS, and found a 6-pin mini-DIN (basically a PS2 keyboard/mouse connector). The mini-DIN should simply screw into the shielding where the RCA jack was - it appears to be the perfect diameter.
I'll then build a mini-DIN to VGA cable and an RCA to 3.5mm audio jack cable.
Anyway - so, unshielded cable internally for the video isn't a problem if done with care. That's great! I'll stick some DuPont terminals on some ribbon cable and run it to the RF box in preparation for the mini-DIN to arrive!
-
Got the VBXE installed yesterday. Worked first time, then stopped working. Turned out one of the ANTIC legs had folded as it went into the adapter. Straightened it out and tinned it to restore some strength and it’s done!
Now, I’m thinking about how to do the VGA connection.
I’m going to remove the RF modulator board so I can use its case hole. I’m hoping a s-video style mini-DIN will have the correct diameter to fit where the modulator’s RCA jack was. Ideally I want to get a panel-mount socket with a nut fixing so I won’t need to drill holes.
Now - one last question! What are people using to get from the VBXE header pins to their socket? I feel like unshielded ribbon cable running inside the case will lead to a noisy signal. Just a regular length of shielded cable with enough conductors?
Like us on Facebook
Follow us on Twitter
AtariAge on Instagram
Watch us on YouTube
Chat on Discord
Mega STE/TT LED replacements!
in Atari ST/TT/Falcon Computers
Posted
Yeah - that really is a great piece of work! Unfortunately the only bit I need is the little clear plastic cover that goes in the parallelogram-shaped hole in front of the activity LED.
Hopefully getting a few bits and pieces to improve my 3D printer over Christmas and will have some free time - so I should be able to do some experiments with translucent PLA to make one!