displaced

My XEGS’s plastic bits have been out on a bit of cardboard on the lawn for two days now. Been a bit overcast here in the UK, but we don’t want blazing heat anyway! Seems to be doing the job! I’m using the keycaps as a reference since they’ve got a visible line between the yellowed plastic at the top of the key and the unyellowed sides. That was very visible to begin with, but is very nearly gone. Reckon most of the parts will be done by the end of tomorrow. The spacebar and the grey joystick top on base might need another day or two as they were worse to begin with. Will post some some before and after pics when it’s all back together. This has worked so well I’m tempted to do the same with my STFM and Falcon. Neither of them were as bad as the XEGS, but they’re not quite what they once were.

Brilliant - thanks! The instructions are otherwise nice and clear, with a straightforward table of ‘connect this to this’. There’s also an annotated photo of the motherboard. There’s some text saying precisely ‘remove the oscillator’, but then there’s no annotation of the oscillator in the motherboard photo. Thought it was worth double-checking

Hi all, Im in the middle of fitting a VBXE 2.1 to my XEGS. Ive got as far as adding the resistor between pins 3 and 40 of FREDDIE and have removed ANTIC, installed the board, and replaced ANTIC. All working so far... Now, the instructions say to remove the oscillator. Is that the metal box just to the left of FREDDIE? Thanks!

Thank you (and everyone else!) With my wife supplying an extra pair of hands, we got the faulty Select switch disassembled. Put some more graphite on the dome inside and it’s now working fine. Ive got a 5Kohm resistor ready for the FREDDIE mod for the VBXE. Reckon that’s tomorrow’s job while the case is having a bit more time in the sun!

Yeah - I’m coming round to it being flux or something. The machine was otherwise in too good condition to have nicotine deposits. IPA did indeed to the trick. Started off with a slow soft brush, and rinsed with IPA until it ran clear. I’ve had the machine uncased running all its self tests for a few hours. Seems fine (apart from the temperamental button - need to have another try at disassembling the switch tonight). The case and keycaps had a good few hours outside in the sun. It’s a good few shades lighter than it was - I think the same again tomorrow should get it back to factory-fresh! And best of all, after all this cleaning, it no longer smells funny My VBXE’s arriving tomorrow or Monday. So I need to lift pin 3 of FREDDIE and link it via a resistor to pin 40. Already checked and there’s 0 ohm between those pins, so need to mod it per the instructions on lotharek’s site. Will see if I get time to do that this eve ... don’t want to rush it!

I considered an XL or regular XE... but the slight oddness of the GS won me over! I intend to see if I can build little Arduino modules to bridge the GS’s keyboard and joystick ports so that I can use a Bluetooth keyboard and gamepads. Did the same with my STFM (but with a Raspberry Pi Zero). Thought the GS would be easier for that because of the external keyboard. Of course, I’ve since learnt that the Start/Option/Select buttons aren’t exposed on the keyboard connector, so it’ll be tricky. Still - all good fun!

Looks like I dodged a bullet :) . I cleaned away with a shaving brush I'd cut shorter to give it a bit more stiffness. Plenty of IPA was involved! Had the board in the sink and just kept spraying and gently wiping downwards until the run-off went from orange to clear. Hooked the board back up after drying and it's still running OK. Now... the Select switch is playing up. Have to push quite firmly and wiggle it to get it to register a push. I saw a link here to http://vybostok.com/8bit-atari/flooded-and-rusted-atari-xegs-repair/ which shows removing the plunger part so the insides and be cleaned and the rubber dome re-carboned. I'd like to give that a try, but am struggling to remove the plunger. The linked page just says it was removed 'carefully' -- can anyone elaborate? It looks like I might need to pinch the two catches visible through slots in the base to extract the inner part, but don't want to go nuts on it without asking here first. The machine's even starting to smell better. If only I could get the stink and stickiness off my hands :)

Well, my XEGS arrived today. System, keyboard and grey joystick. My first A8! Got one of the OK PSUs, gave it a quick multimeter test and it looks good. System passes self-tests which I left running for an hour or so. Good news! The exterior’s pretty grubby, but no scrapes, chips or cracks, so should clean up well in some soapy water. Top of the PCB looks fine, but the underside is *gross*. Not it sure what it was exposed to, but the underneath has patches of dark orange under it. IPA’s taking it away, but it’s leaving a nasty-smelling sticky residue that’s taking extra work to clean off. First thought was a drink spill, but then it’d be on the top of the PCB too. Current thinking is perhaps this machine had many, many packs of cigarettes smoked over it!

Thanks for the welcome, everyone! Had a good read of the newbies topic - plenty to go through there. I've got an old Dell 2001FPW monitor which I keep around because it's got a convenient composite-video input. Got a cable for that and some RCA-equipped powered speakers set up on my desk ready to go! Just pondering how to do the RGB video connection once my VBXE arrives. Want to try to stick with a no-case-hacking policy. I'm happy to have a short flying VGA socket hanging out the back if it's the only way without taking a Dremel to the casing. I'd rather remove the RF output from the board to free up a hole than hack at the case. At least that can be put back in!

Following - this is a timely thread for me! I built a Raspberry Pi Zero-based mod for my ST and Falcon030 so I could use USB and Bluetooth keyboards, mice and joysticks with them. I'm about to receive an XEGS and am wanting to do something similar. Seems like getting an Arduino Nano to send joystick signals to the A8 is easy enough. I'm looking at a few Nano clones which have built-in Bluetooth support, but I can't quite get a definitive answer on whether I can successfully pair a BT gamepad with such a board. Hmmm!

Hi all! First time in the A8 section of AtariAge! I’ve got an XEGS on the way Friday and am more than a little excited. I was an Atari kid growing up, but missed the 8-bit machines (my 8 was an Acorn Electron). I was drawn to the XEGS because it’s a little bit different. Plus, it was the last of the 8-bit machines, which kinda fits with some of my other machines (Falcon030 - last 16/32-bit, Jaguar - last console). Got a VBXE on the way too so I can get an RGB output. Anyway - off to carry on reading through the threads here!

That is wonderful! I'd just posted about alternative ideas for the VGA placement, then saw this. Will definitely be giving it a try, and if you get a chance, sharing the .gcode files would be much appreciated -- the cover for the ports is a really nice touch.

Damn, should've scrolled down a bit. Just saw this: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/282545-consolized-atari-lynx-1-with-mcwill-vga-controller/ I think I need to do that

Hi! Having installed a McWill screen in my Lynx 1, I'm pondering some different ways of installing the VGA output. I'm searching for a clean-looking shell to re-case my Lynx, and am wondering if I can avoid having to mod the shell to install a clunky VGA port. I'm going to try filing down the internal 'lip' on the case just above the cartridge edge connector so I can run a 6-way ribbon cable through into the game cart 'bay'. I'm now looking for the highest density 6-contact connector to put on the end (perhaps a high-density IDC socket?) My idea is that the ribbon cable + connector folds up inside the cartridge bay when not in use. Then, when needed, I pull it out and use a dongle to adapt the connector to standard VGA. The only downside I can see is that this might make the Lynx a little awkward to hold during play, but that may well be a decent compromise. My other idea, if I can't avoid modding the case, is to use the smallest 6-contact DIN I can find. Perhaps something like the old PC PS2 mouse/keyboard DIN sockets (or some other small DIN-style connector). Assuming there's enough space internally, this would be nice in that it could be fitted flush to the case. Has anyone else installed their VGA-out in a way other than 'normal'?

Hi, The info here was vital to help me bring my Lynx 1's board voltage down from ~7.8V to a more normal 5.1V so I could fit a McWill screen. I ended up using the original model zener diode from mouser.co.uk (although shipping from the US was not exactly cheap, since there was no UK stock). I couldn't find any of the mentioned MOSFETs -- they were all out-of-production. However, the Farnell website suggested a substitute, which I fitted and it's working fine: IRLR024NPBF - MOSFET Transistor, N Channel, 17 A, 55 V, 65 mohm, 10 V, 2 V (although even this part is available only until stock is exhausted)

Zener and MOSFET replaced fine and that got me 5V as expected! McWill screen has been fitted and works great! So my Lynx is now happy internally. It could do with a whole new shell though. Gonna keep an eye out for a nice-looking parts and spares sale on eBay.

I can't quite remember where it was from, but I'm following the McWill installation guide, so re-checked from the +/GND points exposed after removing the backlight power module. The guide says this must read ~5V in order to not break the new LCD. Anyway, the old MOSFET and Zener have been removed. I've got a replacement MOSFET (https://uk.farnell.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10001&langId=44&urlRequestType=Base&partNumber=1013486&storeId=10151) I'm waiting for the correct Zener to arrive from mouser.co.uk -- it's shipping over from Texas, but should have it on Friday.

Cool, will do. I couldnt find the original MOSFET or the recommended replacement. Farnell recommends this alternative: https://uk.farnell.com/on-semiconductor/rfd14n05l/mosfet-n-logic-i-pak/dp/1017789 Reckon itll do the trick?

I've read through all the power-related threads I can, but would like to double-check my conclusions before wielding my soldering iron... My Lynx Mk. I works normally on batteries, but with a 9V PSU, the display is too bright even with the brightness pot turned all the way down. I've measured 7.6V on the board with my multimeter. From reading through here, I think this is correct: - The Q11 MOSFET is likely fine -- the Lynx powers on/off perfectly OK. - The ZD1 Zener diode is likely failing, allowing >5V to pass. So, on the face of it, I should replace the failing Zener. But I'd read that when ZD1 fails, it'll dump all 9V to the board. Is it possible for ZD1 to partially fail, leading to >5V but <9V to reach the board? Or is there possibly something else that needs looking at? I measured the 7.6V on the output of ZD1, so if there is something else to replace, it'd be upstream of the diode. [EDIT: One quick thought... during testing when I couldn't lay my hands on any batteries, I fed 5V to the battery +/- terminals, and it worked fine. Would it be crazy to add a micro-USB socket to the Lynx, with the VDC/GND pins connected to the pads for the battery? Hmmmm.] Thanks for any help, Chris

Thanks all -- some good advice there! The two positive terminals are actually the user-accessible ones you can see when just taking off the battery cover (not that I have one of those, but that's another story!). So foil or a washer would be practical as long as care was taken when replacing batteries. I might even look for a bit of sheet metal I could cut to size and see if I can slot it in. Another idea was to see if there was some way of extruding the convex part of the contact so it sticks out further. That'll involve vices, blowtorches and stuff... so maybe not [edit: I've taken a look at the terminals to see if shaving the plastic retainers back a bit is an option. I think I'll do that as a last resort -- it looks all to easy to end up snapping one off entirely!] I'll start with foil, I think! Chris

It *is* weird isnt it? I felt like I was taking crazy pills.... And yes, its a standard alkaline AA Duracell. I initially thought my Amazon Basics Enerloop clones were non-standard, so grabbed a bunch of Duracells to check. Tried a bunch of other random brands I had in the house (Energiser, Uniross) - all had the same problem. Im thinking of putting a blob of solder on the two Lynx positive contacts. Itll work, but Im not sure how durable itll be.

I've been looking at my Lynx Mk. 1 for the first time in ages, and struggled to get power to it. I put in some fresh AAs and it wouldn't start. So I opened the case and got the multimeter out. There was continuity between the +ve to -ve lead between the two battery compartments, but nothing between the solder points for the red/black leads. I stuck the meter's probes into the battery compartment and got ~7.2V as expected (they're rechargeables). Then I looked a bit closer and noticed that there was a good 1mm gap between the top of the +ve terminal on the two 'end' batteries and the respective contacts of the Lynx battery compartment! The odd thing is, the battery bodies are solidly pressed up against the plastic retainer for the contact, so they're not loose. It's almost as if the +ve battery terminal is too short, or the contact has moved away (which it hasn't). I take it the AA battery spec hasn't changed (?!?) I pulled out the terminal plate on the Lynx to see if perhaps the convex part had somehow flattened, but it shows no sign of having squished-in or otherwise deformed. And it's pretty tough stuff -- I can't see how it would've flexed away from its proper position. Has anyone seen this before? Also, I didn't have a 9V/1A adapter handy. I thought I'd try a 5V/1A adapter with the plug cut off connected straight to the red/black battery wires. Seems to be working fine.

Sounds great! Would you mind posting a photo or two if you have a chance? Cheers, Chris

Hi, Anyone got one of the following (in order of preference) available to buy? - Complete Lynx 1 Shell (including battery cover, OK condition, paint chips accepted) - Lynx 1 front shell and battery cover - Lynx 1 battery cover only Im in the UK, will buy from anywhere in the EU. Thanks! Chris

Hello! After losing an ebay auction for an XEGS earlier today, I thought I might as well rescue my Lynx I from the loft and try to resuscitate it. It had a hard life. The case is cracked, the battery cover's missing and the LCD's permanently bright. I seem to remember the only way I could get it working back in the day was to use one of those 'multi-connector' AC adapters -- stupid young me discovered that it worked if I sent power in via the Comlynx port. Who knows what doing that has broken! Anyway, I'm going to do the MOSFET/Zener replacement, a capacitor refresh, and I've got a McWill LCD replacement on the way. So, assuming that all works, I'd love to clean up its exterior. Does anyone know where I could source a Lynx Mk. I shell? I suppose I could wait for a broken, parts-only unit to appear on ebay, but thought there'd be no harm asking here in case there's one available for someone in the UK to buy! Thanks, Chris