Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

172 Excellent

About fluxit

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Gender

Recent Profile Visitors

4,549 profile views
  1. If you haven't already, you'll probably want to upgrade your firmware to this version. Yes, you do need to keep the SD card inserted. No the roms are not included. You place them in a folder called games in the root directory of your SD card.
  2. I'd never thought about the type of flying those jet pilots would have to be doing to cross the screen like that. Now I feel bad about shooting them down.
  3. Seeing as how they apparently wirelessly connect to an AtGames system dongle that plugs into your TV, I'm guessing that they wont work.
  4. Hmmm. Is that in the options? I don't see it. I've gone over every single list and tab a few times at least.
  5. There's a small control inconsistency in the launcher UI. I don't know if it can(or should as I'm not sure what's intended) be fixed by simply remapping or not. A 9 pin joystick plugged into the front ports allows one to select a game line by line by using the up and down directions, or page by page using left and right. The same is true of a USB keyboard's cursor keys. With a wireless USB controller on the other hand, the left thumb-stick works as expected in the UI, but the dpad will only do line by line. Left and right on the dpad in the UI does nothing. FWIW, the right thumbstick doesn't do anything at all in the UI. I see from "jstest" on my computer that the Mayflash adapter I'm using maps left thumbstick to axis 0 and 1, dpad to axis 4 and 5, and right thumbstick to axis 2 and 3 respectively.
  6. My experience mirrors Keatah's. I played up through level 3 on Sentinel with my desktop computer. Sentinel is actually fairly playable on the R77 even, by firing "tracer rounds." Shooting Arcade on the other hand severely limits your ammo, so you can play it on the Retron, but games are short.
  7. I didn't do any remapping. And the screen has a flashing "Paused." Indicator. Ah, good point though. I see that the actual "Toggle Pause mode" is currently mapped to "none" and "Start Pause mode" is mapped to "Pause," which I'm guessing is the keyboard key.
  8. What's the intended way to exit "Pause mode?" By default it's(Rewind one state & enter Pause mode) mapped to J0/B6, which is left-lower trigger on my wireless controller. Pressing the trigger again, holding it down, double-clicking, tapping- none of these seems to have any effect once paused. The only way I've found to exit pause so far is to bring up the menu and then close the menu at which point the game is running again. No other buttons seem to effect the paused state, not even reset.
  9. It'd actually be nice if a version of HiDPI mode(or otherwise larger fonts) was available for the R77. I can read Stella's text if I'm right in front of the TV, but I usually play from the couch which is about 6 or seven feet away.
  10. The boards on Activision carts are just very slightly thinner than those in carts from other companies. If the contacts in your Atari's slot are getting spread to the point where they just barely make usable contact with the carts that do work for you, carts that are dirtier, rougher, or thinner may not work. Are you sure that you've gotten those cart 'fingers' completely clean though? My method is 90% or better isopropyl alcohol on a cotton swab until the contacts on that side of the cart look shiny... then I switch to a new swab and clean again. If the swab is still completely white after using it to clean then I'm done with that side. If the carbon on the contacts is still able to turn the swab grey at all, I switch to a new swab and do it again. IOW, just because the contacts *look* clean and shiny doesn't mean that they are actually clean and it does make a difference. If all else fails, it's also usually possible to retension the contacts in the Atari's slot to give it a better grip, but it takes care not to cause damage because the slot contacts are easily over bent. A little goes a long way.
  11. Did anyone else buy a box(or more) of CX-80s back when they were a part of Oshea's(or was it Surplus Software) offerings? I really need to go through my storage and dig out that box. It still contains 2(?) of the three NIB trak-balls that I purchased. I don't even know for sure if they work. They've never been out of the box. The CX-80 from that bunch that I use always leaves me wondering why it doesn't have the model number on its case, causing me to forget if it's a CX-80 or CX-22. The paper label on the bottom says: KM513 5 And "MADE IN U.S.A." is molded into the case bottom below that sticker. I don't use it that way on regular basis as I prefer my Logitech Marble "Mouse" for its comfort and reliability, but I was suitably impressed with how usable the CX-80 is through a 2600-daptor as a computer trak-ball.
  12. I take it that the "galleon" is the green Dracula Koolaid Man at center bottom of the screen? The fish are so polite to not try to eat you as you're reeling one of them in, especially considering how hard the game tries to feed you to them before you even have a chance to control your diver.
  13. Have you verified with a multimeter that the contact for "down" is actually connected to pin 2(or any pin for that matter) on the 9 pin connector? There isn't really anything else to go wrong so far as the Tac-2 is concerned. If everything else on the joystick is working, you either have a short in that wire, a bad crimp or solder connection, or the problem is with the Atari instead of the joystick.
  14. 130xe? Probably. The 130xe schematic shows a 500k color adjustment pot.
  15. fluxit

    RetroN 77

    While testing the Stella 6.1rc1 release for the Retron 77 on my LCD TV(I usually use my CRT through an HDMI converter) I found something strange. First of all, the R77 booted up to Stella's launcher, and everything seemed fine until I tried to run a game. The TV said "No Signal" and showed a black screen. I tried another game and the same thing happened. Enduro showed a flash of game screen followed by blackness and again "No Signal." I didn't see how it could be the case, but seemingly 6.1rc1 was incompatible with my TV while the previous R77 release had no issues. That didn't make any sense to me, so I tried removing the HDMI powered switch from between the R77 and the TV. Now games would display and everything seemed fine. Games looked and played as they should so far as I could tell, until... Missile Command. Every other interceptor missile that I would fire(almost) would be invisible, both during travel time and its explosion. It didn't seem to matter if that second missile was fired immediately after the first, or if there was a pause between- it would be invisible. It didn't matter if the missiles(and explosions) were gone from the screen, that next missile would be invisible if the previous one had been visible, and vice versa. I thought perhaps I had just not noticed that this particular ROM had issues, so I tried other NTSC Missile Command versions. All but one had the same issue of alternating invisible interceptors. I tried PAL versions, and the problem was not present on any of the PAL ROMs. Since I had yet to update Stella on my desktop, I did that and tried 6.1rc1 on my desktop machine with the offending ROMs- the issue was not present on my desktop machine with Stella. I'd not noticed the issue with my other TV and the Retron 77 either. That was when I remembered that I was using a different HDMI cable on one TV verses the other. On the LCD I had simply used the cable that came with the android TV box that's usually plugged into that port on my TV to connect the R77 as well. It turned out that that was the problem. When I retrieved the cable from the CRT and used it with the LCD, Missile Command was no longer missing any missiles. Really strange. I didn't notice anything else out of the ordinary with the 'bad' HDMI cable and Stella. I guess it just goes to show you- just because it seems that an HDMI cable is compatible and working with a particular device, doesn't mean that it actually *is* working correctly.
  • Create New...