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fluxit

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Everything posted by fluxit

  1. I wouldn't worry about it. It was really just a rabbit hole as far as I'm concerned.
  2. Sure, if you had Robotron's sound turned off. It's a very noisy machine.
  3. The result with the game "One on One," was that my character headed for the upper left corner of the basketball court and stayed there unless I held the joystick full down-left, in which case the character would travel to the right(only.) This flightstick was purchased during the period of time when as a PC user you might have been asked "why did you get the USB version?" I got it during a closeout sale. It's an actual USB 1.0 device so far as I can tell. The bottom says that it's an Orion 90, which seems to have been made by Qtronix. The gameport version was called the Orion 90V Pro.
  4. fluxit

    RetroN 77

    Try formatting the card using Windows' format option. Make sure that you choose the correct drive so you don't format your hard drive. Then write the firmware image with Balenaetcher again. If it still doesn't work, buy the smallest capacity replacement card you can find and try again. You may need a different card reader/writer for your computer as unfortunately many writers do not work well.
  5. From the symptoms, that's what I suspected as well. After testing many devices both wireless and wired, mostly to satisfy my curiosity- the controllers that I decided were the best choice on the R77 when I don't want the 'authentic' Atari controller experience are the "NEXiLUX Wireless 3 Pro Controller Gamepad for Nintendo Wii U" connected to a "Wireless Wii U Pro Controller Adapter for PC USB" by Mayflash. A nice(and unique so far as I've been able to tell) feature of the dongle is that it can actually support 4 gamepads simultaneously on a single dongle when in dinput mode(which the R77's kernel requires anyway.) It's definitely not a trivial issue, particularly if you are trying to support more than one type of device. I just checked what would be required just to properly center the old flightstick that I mentioned, using evdev-joystick on my PC. Apparently the reason it doesn't work properly with the R77 unlike almost every other controller that I tried is that the pot values it provides are in the range of "-32767 to 0" unlike modern usb devices like the gamepads over dongle which do "-32767 to 32767," with 0 being center. So far as I can tell after some web searching, I have to run evtest against the flightstick and note about 17 different values and then arrange for them to be fed to evdev-joystick in order to properly calibrate center for SDL2. I don't have the mental energy for that right now. That said, If there's anything I can do to help, let me know.
  6. I'm not sure what's going on with analog joystick support in v6.2.1. By default the joystick has a huge deadzone set-14,500 IIRC. With the thumbstick on my Wii U Pro controller, this barely works at all in menus. If I pull the stick down in the launcher for a few seconds, sometimes the selection highlight will begin to move suddenly and rapidly after doing nothing. Sometimes double-tapping a direction will illicit a response. After setting the deadzone to the minimum, the thumbstick works much as it did in 6.1.2, but it seems as though the 'repeat delay' is too short, much shorter than I see with a front port digital joystick. I've not tried an intermediate deadzone value to see if that would give me a longer delay in the launcher, as in releases <6.2.1, the defaults seemed to work well for almost any controller(all but 1, a very old flightstick) that I tested with. The response when in game on 6.2.1 is completely different from the Stella menus with the default settings and seems to work fine with the thumbstick, which is even stranger to me. In 6.1.2, using either my thumbstick or a front port Atari joystick felt about the same as each other so far as the response in the launcher and Stella dialogs was concerned. It just worked and felt good, with no settings massaging required.
  7. I'm a bit confused, didn't you say that the white port was the one was working? That's what is connected to the white wire with the brown stripe, isn't it? What games are you using to test? Some games don't actually use both channels.
  8. Have you tried swapping the cables to make sure that the problem isn't following the cable rather than the monitor, or cleaning the ports themselves? I've found that cleaning helps sometimes with MDP ports.
  9. Your connection to TIA 13 looks like a cold joint to me, but the resolution of your images is too low to tell if it's just in shadow. If you have a multimeter, I would use it to check from that pin(the pin itself, where it is not covered in solder) to the brown wire's connection on the mod board for high resistance. Also check if that pin is shorted to ground. In any case, if you haven't added flux and then reflowed all of the brown wire connections, you might want to do so.
  10. Sorry, I don't know much about MAMEUI, but can you choose a different screen output option- switch to/from OpenGL for instance and see if it affects the problem? Or switch between bgfx and hlsl if you are using them. Of course it could be your particular graphics driver version as well, the latest is not necessarily the most compatible with everything. FWIW, I'm currently running MAME .212 which I built a few months ago for my Linux machine. It fixed a slowdown problem I was having with art overlays+bgfx on .185.
  11. That reminds me that you'll also want to turn off scan lines. They don't look good at all on a device that already has real scan lines.
  12. Sorry, it was my fault on the pots. It was very late when I was finishing up. I forgot vcc entirely. Now both paddles are working on the 1st port, although they are fighting each other a bit. I'm getting a full range response.
  13. To get a good picture with the R77 on a 4 to 3 crt with an HDMI to AV converter, you probably need to turn on "stretch" in the Retron's video options. I also have zoom set to 275%(this may be the default, I don't recall.) You might also wish to adjust the overscan option as well to your particular screen.
  14. Nope. Here's what I get with my second, bare board: Driver version is 2.1.0. Joystick (Grand Idea Studio Stelladaptor 2600-to-USB Interface) has 2 axes (X, Y) and 4 buttons (Trigger, ThumbBtn, ThumbBtn2, TopBtn). Testing ... (interrupt to exit) Axes: 0:-30045 1:-29960 Buttons: 0:on 1:on 2:on 3:on
  15. Making progress. This change does show paddle button inputs. They are inverted(closing the switch turns the button "off",) but both paddle buttons are now working. Pot(lack of) reading behavior is unchanged as expected(by me.) Do you suppose that removing the resistors would allow for joysticks to be "detected?" I realize that since they are just a bunch of open switches there isn't really anything to detect without something actuated on a stock standard 2600 joystick.
  16. Welp, I finished the preliminary build last night. Yeah, the first port needs some work, but contrary to their appearance in the image, the joints are acceptable and there are no shorts. Unfortunately, I have no functionality at this point. With two joysticks plugged I get: [email protected]:~$ jstest /dev/input/js1 Driver version is 2.1.0. Joystick (Grand Idea Studio Stelladaptor 2600-to-USB Interface) has 2 axes (X, Y) and 4 buttons (Trigger, ThumbBtn, ThumbBtn2, TopBtn). Testing ... (interrupt to exit) Axes: 0: 32767 1: 32767 Buttons: 0:off 1:off 2:off 3:off No control input causes any change. With a set of paddles plugged into port 1, one of those axes shows "0," but neither paddle causes a change when rotated, and the buttons remain "off" when pressed. I've tried resetting the device, and holding down a joystick or paddle button when plugging in the 2600-to-USB with no change. To confirm, this is how the ports should be wired, correct? // Atari pin 7 -- VCC // Controller #1 // Atari pin 3 -- PA2 // left paddle button, joystick left // Atari pin 4 -- PA4 // right paddle button, joystick right // Atari pin 9 -- PA1 // pot 1 // Atari pin 5 -- PA3 // pot 2 // Atari pin 8 -- GND // Atari pin 6 -- PB5 // fire // Atari pin 1 -- PB3 // joystick up // Atari pin 2 -- PB4 // joystick down // 100K resistors between Atari pin 9 and GND and between Atari pin 5 and GND // Controller #2 // Atari pin 3 -- PA6 // left paddle button, joystick left // Atari pin 4 -- PA8 // right paddle button, joystick right // Atari pin 9 -- PA5 // pot 1 // Atari pin 5 -- PA7 // pot 2 // Atari pin 8 -- GND // Atari pin 6 -- PB8 // fire // Atari pin 1 -- PB6 // joystick up // Atari pin 2 -- PB7 // joystick down // 100K resistors between Atari pin 9 and GND and between Atari pin 5 and GND
  17. I'm giving this a try. I'll build the device later tonight.
  18. I actually like the Jakks Pacific Pac-Man TV games, other than their (usually)janky joysticks. The gameplay is not terribly accurate to the arcade games, but I just view them as yet another Pac-Man or MS variant. Bob's 7800 creations blow those games out of the water. They even play quite well with an 8-way joystick, unlike so many of the home Pac-Mans.
  19. The arcade game? Do a google search for "mame samples collection"
  20. It's looking good. No ball bouncing off of a paddle sound?
  21. I was able to reproduce this by renaming my stella directory. Stella created a new one, but the only back panel button that functioned in game was color/bw. After a reboot, nothing had changed in this regard.
  22. The game surprised me a couple of weeks ago.... It usually takes a couple of games to get in the groove and make it to the super tanks. Eventually I ended up with a super tank at 12 and one at my 6. The tank that was behind me fired and I dodged its shot, which was headed directly for the tank ahead of me. The tank in front backed up just in time for the other super tank's shot to miss it. I thought "got him now" and fired at the tank that had just dodged. It dodged my shot exactly as it had done with the shot of the other tank and I was so flummoxed by what I'd just witnessed I barely noticed as the tank behind me destroyed my last tank. =D Good stuff.
  23. The cartridge slot. As opposed to a rom file stored on the sd card. The hardware that manages carts has less compatibility than if you use a rom file directly, in which case the only limit on compatibility is Stella itself.
  24. In case nobody else has done so, I just confirmed that the 'black screen with no cart plugged and no games directory' is an issue on R77 6.1.1.
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