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Everything posted by fluxit

  1. Watch Darcy's play in the ZPH video above. He finds the gun after a couple of minutes.
  2. I used gparted to 'nondestructively' resize the partition to fit the size of my sdcard. It works just fine.
  3. Try a different USB power supply and/or HDMI cable if you can.
  4. My only thought after reading your post a couple of times, is that while HDMI is nominally plug-and-play, plugging 'hot' doesn't work reliably with all devices. Many devices will negotiate a link if the HDMI cable is plugged in while they are powered(and the input is live) but some will not, and you will see situations where a TV for example will always get a working connection to a particular device whether hot or cold, and whether you've switched to it before or after plugging it while another device will only properly negotiate if cold plugged. As for the garbled video, you might have had a partially working cable(usb or HDMI) that was moved, or not securely plugged in. Note that for the service of this hypothesis I'm assuming the new cable was hot-plugged, which is why it didn't work. For this reason, my procedure for always reliable HDMI is to: 1. Physically plug in the device to the TV/monitor. 2. Turn on the TV and switch to the correct input. 3. Turn on the device that's been previously plugged. If you weren't hot-plugging your HDMI cable(with the R77 on,) or plugging into an already active input on the TV(with the R77 on or off,) I'm afraid that I don't have any other ideas.
  5. Once the firmware has been upgraded to the community build, the aspect button does not serve the same function as with the original Hyperkin firmware. Can you take a picture of your screen at the Stella launcher and share it with us? I'm just not sure what you are downloading or what you expect. If I had to guess, the 13.2 size is probably just 13.15 rounded up or otherwise calculated differently, in other words they are likely the same.
  6. You didn't mention which version you wrote to your sd card. If it's the latest, you should be able to press one of the buttons on the back of the Retron when in the launcher(game list) to bring up the options menu. The menu can be navigated using a joystick. There are options that will allow you to fit your screen. Where are you seeing 48 games, in Windows? You are placing the games in a directory on the sd card named "\games," correct? Are you ejecting the card properly in Windows before unplugging it? The game should work if it is a straight or zipped binary stored in \games.
  7. Make sure that you set the switch to "P mode" before plugging in the controller. I noticed that switching modes while connected didn't always register with the Retron.
  8. The Retron's launcher is simplified as it doesn't have a mouse(or an OS UI to return to.) Some of these changes will not be seen until the Retron has been turned off. Also, left/right to navigate, up/down changes options, fire for check-boxes and buttons. Physical cartridges? They should just work when plugged in(or not- if the particular game can't be successfully dumped via the cart slot.) This isn't currently supported, at least not in a straightforward manner directly on the Retron 77. Probably. Which changes? Assuming the game supports them, they shouldn't require any setup if they are up to the R77's 'standards.'
  9. So far as the slowness is concerned, that's probably just "joystick mode," though degradation of the rollers can also make a trak-ball feel slow as it reduces their efficiency. Joystick mode is slow because unlike a real joystick where holding it in one direction produces an 'always on' effect, the trak-ball sends a series of on,off,on,off,on impulses. They are very rapid, but even if you are spinning the ball perfectly, maximum speed of control will still be feel slower than a joystick. Real trak-ball mode is a completely different situation. I can't speak to the upside-down, etc. as I only have CX-80s.
  10. The original 2600 didn't care if you had paddles plugged in or not as it didn't 'detect paddles', it just used them, though some games which support other control methods try to detect if paddles are plugged in. The Retron on the other hand, wont use(present to the game as) paddles unless it sees them as paddles. A way to tell if your paddles are being seen as a joystick instead is to have your paddles plugged into the left port, and a joystick plugged into the right port. Press right on the right joystick to go down a page in the rom launcher. Now press each of the paddle buttons in turn. If one of the buttons causes your launcher to page-up, you know that your paddles are *not* being detected properly. Until this condition changes, they will never work in game as paddles on the Retron, at least not without the addition of a 2600-daptor or similar. I currently have one set of At Games paddles that works on my R77's front ports, and a set of Coleco Gemini paddles that does not. The Gemini paddles did work about a year ago, and they do work on my 7800 as well as 2600-daptors. They likely need cleaning. In addition, the Gemini paddles have a very loose plug which likely doesn't make a particularly good connection to the console which may be contributing to this problem.
  11. The way those keyboard knobs usually work is to actually send a 'standard' multimedia volume up command(keystroke) when turned in one direction, and a volume down keystroke when turned in the other direction. The problem for software in doing what you propose, is that most modern OS have drivers that understand and intercept those commands before a user app like Stella would even see them. Which is not to say that it can't be done, just that it isn't necessarily straight forward. Of course, if you didn't ever intend to use the wheel for volume control at all anymore and wanted to hack the hardware, as Rom Collector says- it's most likely just a rotary encoder and could be connected to a hardware decoder or ball mouse pcb for use with emulators.
  12. Did you get the pink led? I was trying to power my dongle via the USB port, and so far as I've been able to determine, if it doesn't see a USB host when powered via its USB port, the device will halt with a pink led after syncing your bluetooth controller. At least that is what I've seen with my current firmware.
  13. I wouldn't worry about it. It was really just a rabbit hole as far as I'm concerned.
  14. Sure, if you had Robotron's sound turned off. It's a very noisy machine.
  15. The result with the game "One on One," was that my character headed for the upper left corner of the basketball court and stayed there unless I held the joystick full down-left, in which case the character would travel to the right(only.) This flightstick was purchased during the period of time when as a PC user you might have been asked "why did you get the USB version?" I got it during a closeout sale. It's an actual USB 1.0 device so far as I can tell. The bottom says that it's an Orion 90, which seems to have been made by Qtronix. The gameport version was called the Orion 90V Pro.
  16. fluxit

    RetroN 77

    Try formatting the card using Windows' format option. Make sure that you choose the correct drive so you don't format your hard drive. Then write the firmware image with Balenaetcher again. If it still doesn't work, buy the smallest capacity replacement card you can find and try again. You may need a different card reader/writer for your computer as unfortunately many writers do not work well.
  17. From the symptoms, that's what I suspected as well. After testing many devices both wireless and wired, mostly to satisfy my curiosity- the controllers that I decided were the best choice on the R77 when I don't want the 'authentic' Atari controller experience are the "NEXiLUX Wireless 3 Pro Controller Gamepad for Nintendo Wii U" connected to a "Wireless Wii U Pro Controller Adapter for PC USB" by Mayflash. A nice(and unique so far as I've been able to tell) feature of the dongle is that it can actually support 4 gamepads simultaneously on a single dongle when in dinput mode(which the R77's kernel requires anyway.) It's definitely not a trivial issue, particularly if you are trying to support more than one type of device. I just checked what would be required just to properly center the old flightstick that I mentioned, using evdev-joystick on my PC. Apparently the reason it doesn't work properly with the R77 unlike almost every other controller that I tried is that the pot values it provides are in the range of "-32767 to 0" unlike modern usb devices like the gamepads over dongle which do "-32767 to 32767," with 0 being center. So far as I can tell after some web searching, I have to run evtest against the flightstick and note about 17 different values and then arrange for them to be fed to evdev-joystick in order to properly calibrate center for SDL2. I don't have the mental energy for that right now. That said, If there's anything I can do to help, let me know.
  18. I'm not sure what's going on with analog joystick support in v6.2.1. By default the joystick has a huge deadzone set-14,500 IIRC. With the thumbstick on my Wii U Pro controller, this barely works at all in menus. If I pull the stick down in the launcher for a few seconds, sometimes the selection highlight will begin to move suddenly and rapidly after doing nothing. Sometimes double-tapping a direction will illicit a response. After setting the deadzone to the minimum, the thumbstick works much as it did in 6.1.2, but it seems as though the 'repeat delay' is too short, much shorter than I see with a front port digital joystick. I've not tried an intermediate deadzone value to see if that would give me a longer delay in the launcher, as in releases <6.2.1, the defaults seemed to work well for almost any controller(all but 1, a very old flightstick) that I tested with. The response when in game on 6.2.1 is completely different from the Stella menus with the default settings and seems to work fine with the thumbstick, which is even stranger to me. In 6.1.2, using either my thumbstick or a front port Atari joystick felt about the same as each other so far as the response in the launcher and Stella dialogs was concerned. It just worked and felt good, with no settings massaging required.
  19. I'm a bit confused, didn't you say that the white port was the one was working? That's what is connected to the white wire with the brown stripe, isn't it? What games are you using to test? Some games don't actually use both channels.
  20. Have you tried swapping the cables to make sure that the problem isn't following the cable rather than the monitor, or cleaning the ports themselves? I've found that cleaning helps sometimes with MDP ports.
  21. Your connection to TIA 13 looks like a cold joint to me, but the resolution of your images is too low to tell if it's just in shadow. If you have a multimeter, I would use it to check from that pin(the pin itself, where it is not covered in solder) to the brown wire's connection on the mod board for high resistance. Also check if that pin is shorted to ground. In any case, if you haven't added flux and then reflowed all of the brown wire connections, you might want to do so.
  22. Sorry, I don't know much about MAMEUI, but can you choose a different screen output option- switch to/from OpenGL for instance and see if it affects the problem? Or switch between bgfx and hlsl if you are using them. Of course it could be your particular graphics driver version as well, the latest is not necessarily the most compatible with everything. FWIW, I'm currently running MAME .212 which I built a few months ago for my Linux machine. It fixed a slowdown problem I was having with art overlays+bgfx on .185.
  23. That reminds me that you'll also want to turn off scan lines. They don't look good at all on a device that already has real scan lines.
  24. Sorry, it was my fault on the pots. It was very late when I was finishing up. I forgot vcc entirely. Now both paddles are working on the 1st port, although they are fighting each other a bit. I'm getting a full range response.
  25. To get a good picture with the R77 on a 4 to 3 crt with an HDMI to AV converter, you probably need to turn on "stretch" in the Retron's video options. I also have zoom set to 275%(this may be the default, I don't recall.) You might also wish to adjust the overscan option as well to your particular screen.
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