fluxit

I purchased one of those knockoff NES minis a while ago for $7. The guts would fit in a case that was a quarter the size. I briefly considered printing one for fun.

What are they? A26 is the same as 'bin.'

Yes, but in my case, replacing the HDMI cable with new one eliminated the problem. In my experience, most sporadic HDMI video is the fault of the cable. They are quite fragile, it seems. FWIW, this was the sequence of events here, IIRC: 1,Sporadic video after having updated my firmware. 2.Good video after returning to the original. 3.Sporadic video after switching back to updated firmware. 4.Sporadic video upon once again returning to the original, and eventually no video until I replaced the cable and then all firmwares had 100% working video. When the cable had finally failed completely, no amount of replugging, hot or cold, would result in stable video. Cleaning the video connections did nothing, although they didn't seem to be dirty or damaged. It seems as though initially, reorienting the cable was allowing it to work 'better.' That cable still works on other devices, so it seems that HDMI is fiddly enough just testing a cable successful elsewhere is not enough to rule it out as the cause. Other similar HDMI failures can be related to the ports being dirty or damaged. Why these problems would be more obvious with the community firmwares on the R77, I have no idea. And of course, just because my problem sounds similar to yours and was fixed with a new cable, doesn't mean that you aren't seeing something different.

The case of the 2600+ looks great. I'm glad that Atari is working on cart compatibility, and apparently trying to release a product that people will want to buy. On the other hand, shipping it with only one controller seems chintzy. My first memories of playing the 2600 VCS are of Air Sea Battle, and Combat. Flashbacks came with 2 controllers, and generally cost less I understand that there are plenty of 2600+ buyers who will probably never even play a two player game on the system, but the fact that it can't manage that simple feat out of the box, with no preexisting or added hardware just seems wrong in 2023.

I modified my Atgames sticks by tapping the hole, applying a generous amount of glue, and then I screwed in a bolt that is long enough to pass into the body of the stick. I cut off the head of the bolt, and filed it flat. The Troopers that I have don't have a ready hole, so they'd have to be drilled first.

Plus, if the 2600 compatibility with it(as a 7800 stick) was proper, both buttons should be usable with 1 button 2600 games, providing ambidextrous support at the same time. Of course it would still be a somewhat suboptimal 7800 joystick, due to the button placement.

@SoundGammonWell, you can. In joystick mode.😐

What would make me want to purchase a 2600+ is if Atari opened up the actual capabilities of the machine through the cart port. Then 'reloaded' carts could include the original game, and say- flip that single dip switch to 1, and you get a modern version that isn't using emulation, with updated graphics and sound.

It's available to preorder directly from My Arcade's own store at myarcadegaming.com .

I have one on preorder. The console and controllers look great, IMO. Hopefully the controllers are actually USB compatible, though I'm expecting that they just are able to draw power from USB while remaining 'wireless' for their control signaling. My only complaint from what I've seen, is the paddle not being used for arcade spinner games. Being the optimist(not really🙂,) they will definitely fix that issue in the firmware before shipping regular orders begins.

The 'lower left' corner of the pcb is broken off, including(it appears) the trace that connects to pin 1 of the rom. Perhaps if the board was fixed it would work.

There seems to be a bug related to the timestamp that is being applied to scores in the leader board. The upper score in the two circled scores came first, and did not occur at the time listed. The time is correct for the lower(positionally, on the screen) score.

Mouser has these. You're looking for 2200pf 100v feed through capacitors. As I said, all of the ones that you listed are the same part, according to schematics.

If your 8bitdo arcade stick can be set to a mode other than x-input(what the xbox controllers use,) such as "Switch," or "dinput"- do that. The version of the linux kernel on the R77 is too old to support x-input. Some devices also only work properly with the R77 if they are plugged into the OTG before power is applied to the R77. Many devices do not work if hot-plugged, though many *do*. A non-working device may also render the hot-pluggability of the R77 non-functional until power to the R77 has been removed.

Comparing motherboard images to the schematics, I'd say that those are probably EMI filter capacitors. The ones that you listed are all marked on the schematics as "222." The component numbers are EM11, etc. though. No "I"s though the confusion is understandable due to the unfortunate spacing of characters on the board.

Watch Darcy's play in the ZPH video above. He finds the gun after a couple of minutes.

I used gparted to 'nondestructively' resize the partition to fit the size of my sdcard. It works just fine.

Try a different USB power supply and/or HDMI cable if you can.

My only thought after reading your post a couple of times, is that while HDMI is nominally plug-and-play, plugging 'hot' doesn't work reliably with all devices. Many devices will negotiate a link if the HDMI cable is plugged in while they are powered(and the input is live) but some will not, and you will see situations where a TV for example will always get a working connection to a particular device whether hot or cold, and whether you've switched to it before or after plugging it while another device will only properly negotiate if cold plugged. As for the garbled video, you might have had a partially working cable(usb or HDMI) that was moved, or not securely plugged in. Note that for the service of this hypothesis I'm assuming the new cable was hot-plugged, which is why it didn't work. For this reason, my procedure for always reliable HDMI is to: 1. Physically plug in the device to the TV/monitor. 2. Turn on the TV and switch to the correct input. 3. Turn on the device that's been previously plugged. If you weren't hot-plugging your HDMI cable(with the R77 on,) or plugging into an already active input on the TV(with the R77 on or off,) I'm afraid that I don't have any other ideas.

Once the firmware has been upgraded to the community build, the aspect button does not serve the same function as with the original Hyperkin firmware. Can you take a picture of your screen at the Stella launcher and share it with us? I'm just not sure what you are downloading or what you expect. If I had to guess, the 13.2 size is probably just 13.15 rounded up or otherwise calculated differently, in other words they are likely the same.

You didn't mention which version you wrote to your sd card. If it's the latest, you should be able to press one of the buttons on the back of the Retron when in the launcher(game list) to bring up the options menu. The menu can be navigated using a joystick. There are options that will allow you to fit your screen. Where are you seeing 48 games, in Windows? You are placing the games in a directory on the sd card named "\games," correct? Are you ejecting the card properly in Windows before unplugging it? The game should work if it is a straight or zipped binary stored in \games.

Make sure that you set the switch to "P mode" before plugging in the controller. I noticed that switching modes while connected didn't always register with the Retron.

The Retron's launcher is simplified as it doesn't have a mouse(or an OS UI to return to.) Some of these changes will not be seen until the Retron has been turned off. Also, left/right to navigate, up/down changes options, fire for check-boxes and buttons. Physical cartridges? They should just work when plugged in(or not- if the particular game can't be successfully dumped via the cart slot.) This isn't currently supported, at least not in a straightforward manner directly on the Retron 77. Probably. Which changes? Assuming the game supports them, they shouldn't require any setup if they are up to the R77's 'standards.'

So far as the slowness is concerned, that's probably just "joystick mode," though degradation of the rollers can also make a trak-ball feel slow as it reduces their efficiency. Joystick mode is slow because unlike a real joystick where holding it in one direction produces an 'always on' effect, the trak-ball sends a series of on,off,on,off,on impulses. They are very rapid, but even if you are spinning the ball perfectly, maximum speed of control will still be feel slower than a joystick. Real trak-ball mode is a completely different situation. I can't speak to the upside-down, etc. as I only have CX-80s.

The original 2600 didn't care if you had paddles plugged in or not as it didn't 'detect paddles', it just used them, though some games which support other control methods try to detect if paddles are plugged in. The Retron on the other hand, wont use(present to the game as) paddles unless it sees them as paddles. A way to tell if your paddles are being seen as a joystick instead is to have your paddles plugged into the left port, and a joystick plugged into the right port. Press right on the right joystick to go down a page in the rom launcher. Now press each of the paddle buttons in turn. If one of the buttons causes your launcher to page-up, you know that your paddles are *not* being detected properly. Until this condition changes, they will never work in game as paddles on the Retron, at least not without the addition of a 2600-daptor or similar. I currently have one set of At Games paddles that works on my R77's front ports, and a set of Coleco Gemini paddles that does not. The Gemini paddles did work about a year ago, and they do work on my 7800 as well as 2600-daptors. They likely need cleaning. In addition, the Gemini paddles have a very loose plug which likely doesn't make a particularly good connection to the console which may be contributing to this problem.