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Everything posted by fluxit

  1. Oops. I see I'm not alone in applying my label upside down. Neat game. Now I need to rustle up a friend for some competition.
  2. It works great with the forced 7800 mode. I get proper 7800 stick operation +2 buttons, and with the twin 2600 stick I get two joysticks and one button(#2) as expected. Thanks, it works perfectly now AFAICT, having tested in MAME with Super Xevious(7800 stick,) Krull(Twin Sticks,) and BattleZone(Twin Sticks and fire button.)
  3. Ultimately, the 7800 support is more important to me. I was proceeding under the mistaken impression that the mode switches were checked during powerup, and then became available for reuse in 2600 mode. I have removed my second db9 and cleaned up the board. 7800 mode remained unusable. You gave me a good hint though; upon reprogramming with the "2600-daptorII TB FB1.hex", 7800 sticks now work again. I must have corrupted the firmware somehow with my 2600 twin stick. Your download links for the MPHidflash for Linux are dead. I looked it up on Github and failed at building it, as for whatever reason apt-get couldn't find libhid-dev to install it, so I had to reprogram the 2600-daptor II from Windows.
  4. I received my 2600-daptor II today. 7800 mode worked great with two button support in MAME under Linux. Wanting to be able to use my 2600 twin stick under MAME as well, I tried to use the 'extra button' functionality. Thinking that perhaps one could actually have a complete standard second 2600 stick on 2-6(+C,) I wired a second female db9 as follows(daptor connections on the left,db9 on the right:) pad 2 - pin 1(up) pad 3 - pin 2(down) pad 4 - pin 3(left) pad 5 - pin 4(right) pad 6 - pin 6(fire) pad C- pin 8 No other connections were made. In 2600 mode, everything but Right(extra button 5) worked. Right(extra button 5) caused MAME to see what is shown in the attached image. Figuring that I'd give up on the second fire button since I really only wanted twin sticks anyway, I removed the wire from pin 6 and soldered right(pin 4) to the 6 pad on the board. This worked properly one time with the twin stick. Subsequent attempts to use it resulted in no input(including the main joystick) when right was pressed on the second stick. I noticed that I would sometimes get a 'button 5' in MAME, but it was completely unusable. The red light on the daptor would go out when the "extra button 6" was pressed and stay out until it was released. Apparently, using the "Mode Select Switch" extra buttons wasn't going to work well, so I removed the wire(right) from contact 6 and wired it to contact 1, giving up joystick 1 fire button as well as fire button 2 on my twin stick. This worked(and works) great for Robotron and Krull. Sadly, now 7800 mode doesn't work anymore. With a(single) 7800 stick plugged in, only down on the stick down does anything, and it outputs a whole bunch of buttons(maybe all at once.) I tried a second(single) 7800 stick with the same results. Trak-Ball mode still works. 2600 mode also still works. When set to 7800 mode, the LED blinks the proper sequence as though it should work. Before I remove the added db9 from the daptor, in hope of restoring 7800 mode(I'm not optimistic, there isn't anything plugged into the added connector, and there are no shorts that I can find,) am I barking up the wrong tree? Should my initial idea have worked?
  5. fluxit

    7800 Joypad

    Alternately, you could grease the interior of the dpad's thumb stick attachment hole with lithium grease(so that it doesn't damage the plastic) and then fill the depression with silicone sealer. I tried a Gatorade cap as a mold using this method, and it worked great. I had no difficulty removing the cured plug(it took a couple of weeks to cure due to the depth) intact from the plastic cap.
  6. Having had a couple of play sessions with my Pitfall, I'm quite happy with it. Never having personally owned 2600 Pitfall!, it didn't seem right to get the stick without the cart, so I picked up a copy of Pitfall! 'blue' on Ebay, and the game arrived on the same day as the joystick. Response of both stick and buttons is excellent. I could comfortably prop the case on my lap while playing Pitfall! on the couch. The cord is ~5 feet long, and I'm using an extension that makes it just about perfect for my setup. Xevious 7800 feels absolutely perfect with this joystick. I can easily tap the fire button with my index and middle finger much faster than the game will use input, while effortlessly dropping bombs between targets with my ring finger. After a couple of rounds I found that I needed to jam the case between my knees in order to keep it stable once I was in the groove(at which point I tend to unconsciously use excessive force, regardless of stick size or construction,) but that wasn't a big issue, nor did it cause discomfort for me with this stick. The paint job, though not absolutely perfect, is beautiful. Construction is fine. The components used are excellent. My initial impression is that I would give the stick an 8 out 10. It comes very close to a 9. I definitely don't regret my purchase. Thanks Wyluli Wolf. The better response of this joystick also inspired me to tune my frankensteined twin stick Saitek Megamaster VI(modified for use with PC and Atari.) I reduced the required stick travel and the spring tension(although I really need a finer spring) on both sticks for quicker response and less fatigue.
  7. What a great game. Please put me on the list for an NTSC with PAL colors. There's a dead(always was) Jungle Hunt cart here that needs a fresh new game. Out of curiosity- do other folks have donor shells ready to go? If so, what were they?
  8. Per page 32(numbered 31) of the manual, it looks as though "Power Save(*not* Standby Power Save,)" found in the "Settings, Other Settings" menu might be the relevant option to disable. It is implied that this function is available in analogue mode. On the other hand, page 34(33) makes it seem as though the default setting is "Off" so I don't know if it will help. Keep in mind that as a TV with a fluorescent back-light, this function may save you as much as 40 watts, so if the picture is acceptable to you when not playing Atari, you might want to only disable it when gaming if it seems to be useful. Alternately; in case the display problem is related to something obscure, you might want to try the "Shipping Condition" option to return the TV to its default settings. This is available in the "Setup, System Menu."
  9. fluxit

    Planet smashers

    That's a rather piercing 'laser' sound to be continuous. It sounds similar to the 'split demon bird descending' sound from 2600 Demon Attack.
  10. Keeping the manufacturer and model of the TV a secret doesn't help. Perhaps you have a 'dynamic lighting' setting or something similar? If so, turn it off.
  11. I'm definitely in the market for a 'Pitfall!' with a ball-top(preferably still yellow, wouldn't want to break that neat color scheme.) Let me know.
  12. The Pitfall version is amazing. I don't suppose you have any ball tops you'd substitute? I've never appreciated those newfangled sticks.
  13. Check the joystick port for bent pins. Try a different joystick. You didn't mention which type of controller you were using, it may or may not make a difference.
  14. Any progress to report since July?
  15. Yours may be different, but in my case, the double sided stickers under the rubber were sticky enough to stick the bumpers solidly to the table I gently set them on while I had the CX80 open. I've now had it open about four separate times, and the bumpers are staying on the CX80 without any new adhesive added.
  16. Okay. Obvious questions time. Are you using your CX80 on a 2600? Do regular joysticks work normally on said console(including fire button?) What cart(if any) did you use to determine that the ball works fine, but not the fire buttons? Assuming your CX80 has the mode switch, have you tried both modes(JS/TB) to see if the fire button behavior is the same? Have you tried a non trakball supporting game that can normally be started using the fire button only(reset not required) to see if it can be started using the CX80 in either mode? You should be able to test the 'fingers' of the switch on the board by momentarily bridging the contacts with a small piece of aluminum foil on the end of your finger while a game is running, if you really think that the portion of the switch that is connected to the buttons themselves is really where the problem lies.
  17. I don't love or hate the CX-40s. My first 'Atari' was a Coleco Gemini. The 7800 Prolines don't cramp my hands. Perhaps my hands are exactly the right size for them? In my defense, while I could take or leave the stick, I absolutely love the action of a minty fresh CX-40 fire button. Who needs a game when you have that awesome button and a thumb to push it with?
  18. Insert the end of a 3cm steel paperclip into the pin-6 hole of the plug. Check continuity between the paperclip, and the 'BLUE' contact(where the blue wire attaches on the CX-80 pcb.) This is your fire button line. Insert the paperclip into the pin-8 hole of the plug. Check continuity between the paperclip and the 'GRA' contact. This is your ground.
  19. It arrived. Woohoo! I modded my CX-80. The trakball feels nice, the extra weight definitely helps. 4 games in. It's great to be able to zip across the field to pick up spiders and zip back to continue zapping the 'pedes. The added precision gives me confidence to purse the fleas- sometimes leading to unnecessary deaths .
  20. That's definitely first, now on my list of things to try. Thanks. And you're right, I'd forgotten about the 'paste' that you can get with dust, etc. that goes beyond simple 'dust to surface adhesion.'
  21. Howdy folks. I'm a longtime AtariAge lurker and XM 'owner.' I just cleaned the dust and cat hair out of my CX-80, then I washed the ball with soap and water. Before doing so, the ball felt like roller skates on a rough sidewalk. It now feels nice and smooth, Centipede 7800(non-TB) conjures up those many games played on the arcade machine back in the 80s, even though I can only make squarish movements with the trakball in 'JS' mode. It's amazing the difference a thin coat of dust can make. Although I like my arcade stick on the left, a trakball feels better to me when it is under my right hand. Unfortunately, this means that when rolling fast to the left, I find that the ball tends to lift up off of the L/R roller(which is located on the right side of the ball) and collides with the edge of the case bordering the ball, unless I take care not to start my leftward roll from the right side of the ball, and instead start from the center of the ball. I attribute this to the lower mass of the CX-80 ball when compared to the arcade. It's not a major issue, but it does seem wrong when it happens. I don't recall my Wico trak ball having this problem, although I can't check it at the moment as I've misplaced the Wico somewhere since the last time I played Yar's Revenge. Does anyone else experience this? If so, have you tried to fix it, by adding a slippery bumper or additional small roller at some point along that left inside(internal) edge of the case? I just ordered Centipede: TB and am looking to get the best experience possible.
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