chue

I can't type spaces when I'm creating a new post. This also happens during editing. When pressing spaces, the browser acts like I am pressing the page-down key. This happens on Windows 10, browser is Microsoft Edge (version 41.16299.15.0). FF and Chrome don't have this problem.

* deleted * posted in wrong place

Looks like you got a deal, because these things are averaging $100 on eBay. I myself am contemplating a budget board for my A500 that runs around $20 - $30 on eBay. You can find it by searching for GBS8200. There are some complaints on the net about picture quality but I figure it is better than what I have now which is the black and white RCA output.

Seems to work for me in the Classic 99 emulator, found here: http://www.harmlesslion.com/software/Classic99 This is what I get when I type 1:

Oh... the goggles aren't for me to wear, they are for my potential dates to wear. Just look at my profile picture and you'll understand.

I like the Bono Safety Goggles: "Protects eyes and maintain inflated sense of self importance when using power tools." Now does anyone know where I can find some beer goggles?

At $17K it's about $14K - $15K too much. The dual Titan Z cards are outdated and overpriced when compared to GTX 1080s (currently $4K each vs $500). The 1080s also appear to run circles around the Titans: http://gpuboss.com/gpus/GeForce-GTX-TITAN-Z-vs-GeForce-GTX-1080 Throw in another $1K or $2K for current generation I7 CPU/ Motherboard/ RAM / etc. Of course you'd have to put it together yourself, but like I said you'd save $14K - $15K.

F18A? Just kidding , I am sure that would not be keeping with the "spirit" of the contest.

As Travis mentioned, reflows are a temporary solution. Reballing is what you want. Reflows works for a while, but then the light of death eventually returns. It's great for when you just want to pull some game saves off the PS3's drive. I actually reflowed one and it did die after a while. There are loads of stories on the net that confirm this. Now since you know Ben Heck, maybe you can ask him why this is. I'd be interested as well. Maybe he'd do a show on it!

I will give you the name of the guy that did mine, but my experience with him was not great. He has plenty of 5 star ratings from others though. Maybe my experience was a fluke. So here's my story: I had a YLOD on my PS3 and sent it for repair. The repair went long and I messaged the guy many times but he never responded to my communication. After three months I figure I'm not getting the PS3 back so I complain to the payment provider (PayPal) and ask for a refund. The complaint works it's way through PayPal and it gets to the point where they say they will talk to the service provider. At this point I am hoping to just get my money back, and not my PS3. Maybe a week after the complaint, to my surprise, I get a package in the mail - it's my PS3 - I plug it in and it works! So after all the teeth pulling I am relieved that I got my working PS3 back. So yes I have a working PS3 now, but only time will tell how good of a job was done. So far I've been babying the PS3 and not pushing it too hard. I do plan on pushing it a little harder soon though. This is the guy I used: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Playstation-3-PS3-Reballing-repair-service-One-year-warranty-RoHS-standard/291290818089?epid=1150079233&hash=item43d2492629:g:T5MAAOSwQiRUohan He also has a website, but if you decide to use him I would recommend you go through eBay (I didn't). That way you have 2 levers you can pull - ebay and PayPal.

Unfortunately the one I bought on amazon is no longer being sold. It was a no-name charger though. Hopefully someone else will have a link.

They won't charge on "any old" USB port. The joystick itself will not charge unless the port supports some kind of special handshake. I believe the port and controller do some negotiating as to how much power can be delivered (don't quote me on that though). I don't know if it will charge on the Switch. For my controllers I have a PS3 controller charging device. They are cheap on amazon/ ebay, probably $10 - $15. You may need to provide a USB wall wart though.

I have it installed under Fedora 25. Here is what I used - note that I did get a small error with some directories needing to be manually created. dnf update -y dnf groupinstall "C Development Tools and Libraries" dnf install wget bzip2 patch tree dnf install gmp gmp-devel mpfr mpfr-devel libmpc libmpc-devel ./install.sh /usr/local/bin/gccti The above produces the error: /bin/sh: line 3: cd: tms9900/libstdc++-v3: No such file or directory Which is fixed by creating some directories and re-running the install: mkdir build/gcc-4.4.0/build/libiberty/ mkdir build/gcc-4.4.0/build/libiberty/tms9900 mkdir build/gcc-4.4.0/build/libiberty/tms9900/libstdc++-v3 ./install.sh /usr/local/bin/gccti

That's how they get you... They throw in a couple extra Vic carts and the next thing you know, you are buying a Vic 20 system. Muhuwahahaha!

Re: Retrobrighting Just be careful so that yours doesn't turn out like this guy's: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/269859-some-things-were-not-meant-to-be-retrobrighted/?p=3845350

Yes I'd like to see if I can get rid of the splotches... I'll have to go pick up some hydrogen peroxide and a tub large enough for the TI.

Thanks! I'll keep that in mind for next time.

Yes, I did use saran wrap. I think that you are right that the results would be better with a UV light.

In thinking about it, it isn't the white that bothers me so much but the "mottled" part. I was also thinking blue for the fix on the plastic case, but I think I would go for the same blue that is in the logo on the top of the case. (Sample in the attached image, but it's a little faded because of the retrobrighting.)

You are right those machines are cheap... That is why I am not sweating it too much. I did see that episode by the 8-bit guy. I didn't have the clear liquid peroxide (or a tub large enough), so I didn't go that route. It was a late August day, probably between 70 - 80 degrees out. I could never get the retrobright to stay on evenly, and I am sure that is part of the problem. One thing I didn't show in the photos above is the 2nd TI. On that one I did retrobright the keys using the same mixture - the keys came out perfect. So I think it is also related to the type of plastic.

LOL Sinphaltimus, too funny!

Not sure if I'll do anything further to it at this point. I might just leave it as a reminder of what can go wrong...

I recently purchased some beige TIs off of craigslist. I cleaned them up and they still had a bit of yellowing so I had this great idea to retrobright them. It was a big mistake. The retrobrighting process turned them white, and the process also left the coloring marbleized. For reference, I did not retrobright the keys; also in the photos, the TI sits on top of a white freezer. I did die a little inside after I saw the results It is entirely possible that I did something wrong, but I just thought I would share my experience in case someone else has the same great idea. It might give you a little pause before you do it.

Oh man, I have to open up my TIs now to check! I'm not holding my breath though.

From a buyer's perspective, I call that a good deal.