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chue

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Posts posted by chue


  1. On 3/11/2019 at 1:08 AM, atarian1 said:

    Excuse my electrical ignorance...Did you have to be aware of connecting the ground holes to the power supply bracket? What happens if you rotated it 180 degrees so that you mount it with the non-grounded holes? I don't recall doing that when I fitted non-Atari power supplies to the bracket. But then, that was ages ago...

    I thought this was a great question, so I did some digging...

     

    On page 4 of the manual is a reference to grounding points M1 and M2.  M1 is safety ground, and it REQUIRES grounding.  Also, M1 and M2 should be connected to chassis ground as well for "better EMC performance".

     

     

    Meanwell RPD60.png

    Meanwell RPD-60-SPEC.PDF


  2. 33 minutes ago, evisu said:

    Planned next steps: re-cap the system, probably new laser unit, TF330 is something what sounds great too.

     

    Is there a chance to connect a P/S2 or USB keyboard somehow to the console?

    There are guys that sell the TF330 with a riser which has a PS2 connector. For example here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/TF330-Expansion-for-Commodore-Amiga-CD32-64MB-Ram-IDE-030-50-Riser-CF-card/233406330699?hash=item365819f74b:g:aRoAAOSwaKVcvLAo

     

    The above seller is based in Canada but there are others who are based in Europe. You can ask on the TF330 forum here: https://www.exxoshost.co.uk/forum/viewforum.php?f=70

    • Like 1

  3. You'll probably want to take it apart and make sure to replace the internal battery.  Those batteries will damage the motherboard if you leave them in.  I have a few M100s and have replaced the batteries with super capacitors.  See the before (brown battery) and after (blue supercap) in the attached pics.

     

    Just something to keep in mind - I believe that it won't boot if there's no battery.

     

    I would also recommend you replace the capacitors on the board as well.

    M100-original-battery.jpg

     

    M100-supercap.jpg


  4. 40 minutes ago, Torrax said:

    Anyone noticing any slight static or noise added to the sound output of this latest release??

    I'm running Win 10 on a laptop and a desktop - I haven't noticed any noise.  I just tried now on my laptop and seems ok.


  5. 22 minutes ago, Sid1968 said:

    Why not changing the 12V DC/DC-Voltage Controller too? Your PSU-Board would get a loooot less warm! ;-)

    Why not taking axial Elkos, instead of radial?

    I have this problem that whenever I order electronic parts, there is always one thing that I forget.  This time it was the DC-DC converter.  I will order one at a future date.

     

    Digikey does not seem to sell the axial types - at least I could not find them on the site.

    • Like 1

  6. 13 hours ago, --- Ω --- said:

    83 days @ 24 hours a day or a little over 3 years @ 3 hours per day... is that correct?  What is the normal operating temperature of the power supply?

     

    I don't know about the operating temp, but the caps are rated for 2000 hours at 105C. 

     

    For every 10C decrease in operating temperature, the lifetime roughly doubles.

    https://electronics.stackexchange.com/a/31600/124611

     

    Given that, we can expect the following lifetimes for a range of temps:

     

    95 C / 203 F = 4,000 hrs

    85 C / 185 F = 8,000 hrs

    75 C / 167 F = 16,000 hrs

    65 C / 149 F = 32,000 hrs

    55 C / 131 F = 64,000 hrs

    45 C / 113 = 128,000 hrs

    35 C / 95 F = 256,000 hrs

    25 C / 77 F = 512,000 hrs

     

    According to google, you can touch something that is 140 F, and HAVE to pull your fingers away after 5 seconds.  If we assume this temperature for the TI, we get a little over 32,000 hours of continuous operating life.  At 3 hours a day, we get 10,667 days or 29 years.

    • Like 1

  7. I've been wanting to recap my TI for a while, and recently did the internal power supply.  Here's what I used :

     

    3300µF/35V Radial. Quantity: 1. https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/panasonic-electronic-components/ECA-1VHG332/P5557-ND/245156
    1000µF/25V Radial. Quantity: 1. https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/panasonic-electronic-components/ECA-1EHG102/P5544-ND/245143
    470µF/25V radial. Quantity: 1. https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/panasonic-electronic-components/ECA-1EHG471/P5543-ND/245142
    47µF/25V Radial. Quantity: 2. https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/panasonic-electronic-components/EEU-FM1E470/P12923-ND/762833
    4.7µF/50V Radial. Quantity: 1. https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/nichicon/UPW1H4R7MDD1TD/493-11360-1-ND/4319999

     

    Note that some caps have higher voltage ratings than the originals.

    Also, all caps here are rated at 2000 hours at 105°C.

     

    post-recap-600x550.jpg

    • Like 3
    • Thanks 1

  8. 57 minutes ago, Gilbyph said:

    I'd like to be able to use a joystick with more than one trigger button. How many buttons can a TI recognize? Just a maximum of one?

    You could hook up a modified Genesis joystick, and use one of its many buttons as an additional fire button.  This would require any game to poll both joystick 1 and joystick 2 for button presses.

     

     

    • Like 2

  9. The trickiest part, for me at least, are the mines. 

     

    On the first course I slow the vehicle down to the slowest speed and then jump the mines that way.  This does require precision jumping, which I cannot do with a joystick.  I find that switching to the keyboard during this makes things a lot easier.

     

    There is an exception to the speed rule above - I will speed up the vehicle to make a jump when there are two mines that are right next to each other.  There is usually a third mine nearby that needs to be avoided as well, and for me there is always some luck involved as to not hit one of the three.

     

    On the second course, the mines always seem to get me.  I always die in the same spot, which is shown in my final attempt.  This spot seems to have gotten @globeron as well:

     

     

    • Like 2
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