FABombjoy

Just came here to say the same thing, so you're not the only one :-)

For North American folks that want to save on shipping, I will be carrying a small stock of Philia CDs as well.

I've saved many many red-screen only carts with this incantation: 1: Thoroughly clean the contacts. High % rubbing alcohol is OK. Leave the contacts wet. 2: Insert & remove the cart from the Jaguar 5-6 times 3: Clean the cartridge again. 4: Insert & remove another 5-6 times 5: Clean it ONE MORE TIME 6: Shake excess cleaner out and allow cartridge to fully dry. This may take 30-60 minutes. In my experience, Jag carts don't work if there's even a trace of cleaner left, and whatever you use to clean them will probably wick its way up into the cartridge body.

Payment sent for one of each!

Yep, I'm the owner. Thanks for your consideration! Like sh3-rg said, they are on CD-R but the quality is very high end. At my day job, I ocassionally produce educational materials on DVD-R and Matthias's productions look better than mine

Many thanks to you both! Doctorclu, I sent you a followup email re: your order.

The game box on mine was fairly beat-up. Cart, manual, and cart holder are all good, tho! During the holidays, USPS = US Postal Smashers

The DAC offset adjustment isn't really for centering, only the magnets are. If you move the DAC offset pot to far out of adjustment, vectors at the edge will become distorted. Unfortunately you'll need a scope to put it back 100%, but if its a bit off its usually OK

They're here! http://console5.com/store/impulse-x-cart.html

All SMD caps will probably be bad. I've done more Duo / Express / Laseractive PAC cap replacement than I can remember and the failure rate is pretty much 100%. Unfortunately, the longer you wait, the more frustrating repair can be.

Possibly the SMD caps have failed to the point that the system will not function. They are pretty much guaranteed to fail on all Turbo Duo / PC Engine Duo units. Replacing them all is the first step in troubleshooting, and depending on if there is any damage to the PCB, further troubleshooting afterward. Examine the legs of the SMD caps and see if they look corroded. That's the only real way to tell with them. Here's a pic of what to look for. The right leg on that SMD cap has been damaged by the leaking electrolyte, but there is no presence of liquid and the cap itself looks fine. Edit: Added pic

1 CIB please!

I have a Playcable T-shirt and a full set of Playcable manuals in their original box. But alas, no actual Playcable unit (yet).

For any US buyers that want to save on shipping, I'll have about 30 copies or so available as well

Oh, ha... now that I'm not on Tapatalk I can see the Moon Patrol screenshot I wouldn't think you have to replace any, just supplement in parallel. If you look at the 16-bit era, 10uF (Sega / Pioneer) through 22uF (NEC) were typical values for bypass caps. Again I'm just kind of "writing out loud" here and haven't tested any of this, except for adding caps to the RAMs themselves. There could be other loop issues present due to the twin 7805s design. According to the schematic, the RAMs and ANTIC/GTIA aren't even fed by the same regulator.

Maybe the CPU draws less power when paused, you know, that's just the theory I'm working on. That the lines become visible during higher power consumption because there is a lack of reserve capacity current-wise off of the regulators. I will try to get some measurements over t'giving break. What game do you observe the pause phenomena with?

I hate to recommend a shotgun approach, but all the chips could probably use bigger bypass caps. Haven't tried this myself but it has cured similar problems with other consoles. I don't know how pause is implemented programmaticly, but if it puts ANTIC in a lower power mode, that could be why the refresh lines disappear. E.g. the chip consumes less power and the +5v becomes more stable.

The ceramics could be on the left too, I'm referencing a 4-port board myself. Not sure if they are in the same position on the 2-port boards or not. If in doubt, check the schematics

These would be the little .1uf caps on the right side of the RAMs. C26, C139, etc. I've done the S-Video mod before and added electrolytics in parallel with these to diminish the lines. With it running, you should be able to just touch an electrolytic cap to the existing ceramic and see an immediate change. Also check that your ANTIC, S-video circuit, and S-video connector grounds are at the same potential. I try to ground & power my circuit directly from ANTIC to keep any ground loop issues at bay.

If you have some spare 1uf or 10uf caps, place a couple in parallel with the existing ceramic bypass caps connected to the system RAM. Just add a couple and see if they begin to diminish the effect.

Seems to be working today. I didn't make any changes on my end... I have no explanation, but I do love self-repairing bugs. Thanks for looking in to it!

Weird, I still dont see it. I can read threads if I search for them but I only see 3 subforums.

I noticed recenly that I can't see the CollectorVision subforum under AtariAge Forums -> Gaming General -> Classic Gaming General -> ColecoVision / Adam. I haven't checked all subforums, so it may affect more than one. All 4 subforums appear on the website, but I only see the other 3 subforums on Tapatalk. Using Tapatalk 4 on Android. Other than that, everything else is great!

I'd like 62 or 64 please!

Yes, I would love to stock these. If a second run happens I'm in! Especially since I missed out.