Retro STrife

True, for NOS, I do agree with that, assuming the item is new and sealed or packaged up. In that situation, the item is sealed, so there is no way to test it. The seller doesn't want to break the seal or disrupt the packaging and devalue it. So everyone is in the dark. So it makes sense that some of the risk is shared. But, as to any unsealed items (whether "new" or used), I disagree. But I know sometimes there's a gray area. In this specific case, though, I looked at the item on ebay that the OP bought and I side with him, since it is not sealed and can't even be guaranteed that it is unused. Always better, though, if some middle ground is reached on an expensive NOS item, and sounds like they did. That being said, my problem is more so with the sellers that sell used items "as-is" and say things like "I don't have a system to test this game on" or "I don't have an old TV, so I can't test this system". That's fine, but if it doesn't work, a return should happen, regardless of any "as-is" nonsense they tried to put in their listing. (Which, again, is trumped by ebay's policy that if you list it as new or used, it has to work.) Otherwise it's too easy for disingenuous sellers to claim that things are untested when they know it doesn't work. When I sell, nothing is more annoying than a return, but I know it's the right thing to do.

Thanks Shawn. Experiment complete...

Everything, Shawn, everything. I think you're on to something here. And in honor of that, I've relisted the game at $49.99 with free shipping. I've posted it as an auction, ending next Sunday, and we'll see how it goes. Here's the new link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/322406580648?

Also, I disagree with those here saying to the OP that he should be SOL because the auction saying "As-is" somehow absolves the seller of responsibility, especially for a $500 item. If you sell on ebay, you need to provide good customer service. Within reason, the seller needs to accommodate buyers...not the other way around. If your $500 item doesn't work, you take it back. As long as the buyer didn't do something shady, the seller needs to take the loss. I agree with Tim that "as-is" is too often used by sellers to avoid responsibility or to sell broken items under the guise of them not knowing if it works. Not gonna fly with ebay...if you list the item as "New" or "Used", ebay requires that it works...by using those designations you represent it as a working item. That trumps your "as-is" nonsense in your auction. Therefore, the only exception is if you list it as "Not working or for parts" in which case you are representing it to be broken. So for sellers that really don't know if something works, they need to post it as "Not working or for parts" if they don't want to take a return on a broken item. Otherwise, buyers are going to win their claim for the return, as they should. And, as a seller, I find that being nice and just agreeing to the return makes you less likely to get screwed over, compared to if you put up a fight with a buyer. Piss off a buyer, and you might get a box of rocks back, and negative feedback. Not worth it. I'm with Tim on this one.

Sniping is the way to go. I disagree that is in somehow wrong or disingenuous. Auction bidding is all about getting items for the best price. To do that, I prefer if everyone snipes at the last second and the highest bid wins. Far more annoying than sniping is people who fight over an item with bids when there are 5 days left to go. I sell on ebay, but I understand that everyone is there to get a good deal--not jack up the price with a bidding war so the seller gets rich. Sniping ensures the best result for buyers. If you can't be there at auction end, plenty of online programs will make the snipe bid for you. I have no problem setting up my bid with those, going to sleep, and checking in the morning if I won. Nothing wrong with people doing that.

Ok everyone, thanks for all your help with this. I'm back with an update. Over the past few months, I've been working on my gameroom and just recently got around to doing my portables area of the room. I used a lot of the ideas you guys gave me, as well as a few that I had in mind or that popped in my head along the way. As I mentioned before, it's tough to find info online about displaying a collection of portables, so I figured I'd share what I did now that I have my section mostly complete. (I say "mostly complete" because I'm satisfied with where it's at, but open to switching things if I get new items or think of a better way to do it.) I'm not remotely handy, which means everything I used had to be bought (rather than hand-made). So, I've posted the photos of the shelf here. For those interested in an explanation of what I did, feel free to keep reading below. First, to help the explanation, I'll give a quick tour. (Ignore the Odyssey at the top, as that is just sitting there temporarily until I finds its permanent home elsewhere in the room.) The top shelf is larger/older portable systems (Microvision, Lynx, and Game Gear). Originally, the Microvision games were stacked off to the left, and this top shelf looked bad. My girlfriend came up with the idea of stacking them along the back, and I think they make a nice retro wallpaper back there. The second shelf is all Nintendo portables (GB, GB Pocket, GB Color, GB Advance, Advance SP, Pokemon mini, DS, 3DS, an e-Reader, and Virtual Boy). (On this shelf, I don't really like the open space above the systems, so if anyone has ideas for that, let me know!) The third shelf is more miscellaneous portables (Tiger R-Zone, Game.com, Neo Geo Pocket Color, Tapwave Zone, Nokia N-Gage, Gizmondo, Wonder Swan Color, and Sony PSP). The fourth shelf is a selection of my loose portable games, mostly Game Gear, but also Game Boy, NGPC, R-Zone, etc. I put most of my other handheld games on another shelf in the gameroom, because they were mostly complete games and so display better on a media shelf (like DS, PSP, N-Gage, Wonderswan, etc.) The fifth shelf is portable toys, like a Tiger handheld, Tomytronic 3D, and some plug-and-play type games. The bottom shelf is home to my Vectrex (maybe not truly "portable", but due to it's weight I prefer it here where it won't topple over, rather than elsewhere in the room) and a few storage bags for systems. I'm open to throwing those bags in a closet if I acquire new items worth displaying there. Ok, so I'll explain a bit about each item and some of my thinking, so that others might be able to use them too. So first off, I decided that I wanted to display my portables on a bookshelf. That allows the depth to display many systems, without having to construct my own shelving. I wanted a sturdy bookshelf with adjustable shelves and at least 6 shelves to maximize space. By far, the hardest part was finding one with 6 shelves that didn't cost a fortune. Trust me, I get almost everything on Amazon, but a 6-shelf bookcase was nowhere to be found there or anywhere else online. Nor Craigslist. I ended up driving an hour to IKEA, and got the Hemnes bookcase for $149. For less cost, IKEA also has the Billy bookcase for $80, which is a similar size and color, but I preferred the look of the Hemnes. Shipping to home from IKEA was like $150 itself, so forget that. But here's a link for the one I picked up: http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/80245640/ For displaying systems, TDIRunner referred me to Rose Colored Gaming. Great place. They sell stands for many of the mainstream handheld systems, especially Nintendo systems. The stands are pretty cheap at about $7 each, although they add up quick if you get a bunch. I used their stands for any systems that they make them for. Here's their link: http://www.rosecoloredgaming.com/ For systems not covered there (and for more cost-minded ppl), I highly recommend Gibson Holders. Check them out on Amazon. They make display holders for things like plates (as Keatah recommended) and small ones specifically for electronics. I was stuck deciding which size to get. But now, trust me, the small version works great for nearly everything... everything from my N-Gage to my Lynx fits on the small displays. Yes, even the Lynx. I also bought a couple mediums and a large, so I used the mediums for my Game Gears and a large for the Microvision. My only issue with these is that the stand is too visible for smaller systems like the N-Gage. But anyway, here's the link for a 12-pack of the small stands: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NEDHM6A/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=atariage&linkId=240d136ae4e3ad1ff1d5924d0c23353b Next up, it's time to display the loose handheld cartridge games. First off, as you can see, the InterDesign soup can shelf works great! (See my prior post.) I got two of them. I used them for Game Gear games... it fits 3 rows of carts across and 3 down.. and the two shelves are holding over 50 games there, with room for much more. Here's a link again: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002BRU8R0/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=atariage&linkId=4fcfb029d29f7fdbf75ef9beaf7564cd For the other loose handheld carts, I highly recommend US Acrylic holders on Amazon. InterDesign also makes some. The trays are 3" wide, which is perfect for most handheld carts. They come in various lengths (3", 6", 9", or 12") depending on how many games you want in them. In my photo, I have GB games in a 9" tray, NGPC games in 6" trays, and GB Advance in a 3" tray. I'd avoid 12" trays as I think your games get more unwieldy at that point.. just go with two 6" trays for that many games. InterDesign also does a 3"x3" tray, which is just slightly spacier and slightly nicer looking. I used those for my R-Zone carts, because it fit one extra cart. (Side tip: These trays also work great for certain loose console games--I use them to display my loose TurboGrafx cards on one of my media shelves.) Here's some links: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D06SIP4/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=atariage&linkId=5cac6abaa63a6afb9ab6086d43cc8e91 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D06SK6G/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=atariage&linkId=7f66ec72c91c4e89a1182e5bc9452946 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BKODXMG/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=atariage&linkId=cd4e8742786db9fa5f4bd1c2515720c4 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WSO18SE/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=atariage&linkId=d16943a0705fbdbac9759a1545943696 That's everything. Thanks again everyone for the help. Any questions or any thoughts on improving this display are more than welcome.

Thanks for sharing this. Since first learning of this book months back, the title has misled me to believe that it was mostly a collection of photographs, just showing off artwork from Atari boxes, ads, etc. Glad to see that it's much more. I'll have to pick up a copy.

Never even heard about that! But I agree with you- looks like a Missile Command clone... probably with 1-pixel bombs falling down the screen with a movable gun at the bottom to shoot up at the bombs.

Thanks for the tip! I placed an order, so if that works out, then I'll update the post here with a review of Super Block Buster. I also checked out all your Microvision reviews. Looks like we agree on most of the games, with a few exceptions, like that you liked Pinball and disliked Block Buster. Very good stuff. I'm gonna check out your reviews on other systems as well.

Yeah, good point. I should note here for potential collectors that there are tons of name variants out there, due to the games being sold in various European countries and having their names translated into the proper language. Otherwise, they might be confused as different games. As some examples, Connect Four was called Forza 4 in Italy (and Puissance 4 in France and Vier Op 'n Rij in the Netherlands), Sea Duel was called Bataille Navalle in France (and in Germany it was See-Duell), and Block Buster in France was Casse Brique. Shooting Star is one that people confuse as a European exclusive, but it is actually the same as Phaser Strike. Besides the European cartridge buttons being made differently than North American versions, I don't think there are any programming or gameplay differences. By the way, I notice in your photo that you have Super Casse Brique (a.k.a. Super Block Buster), which is the one I've had trouble finding. Any thoughts on that game? How is it compared to Block Buster?

Maybe you're on to something with the "wrongly named" part. I think I got psyched about the concept of pinball on the system, and then was so annoyed when I actually saw what it entailed. Just batting a ball at 4 little dots on the screen.... It was a disgrace to call that "Pinball". Maybe if they called it "Bumper Ball" or something dumb like that, I would have been a lot more forgiving and accepting. But, admittedly, my annoyance did impact that score.

Hey everyone.. I posted this a few years back on another forum that I frequent, but figured you all might get some use out of it too. It’s a review of Milton Bradley’s Microvision handheld system from 1979, along with all 11 U.S. games. As many of you know, this is generally considered the first handheld gaming system ever released, as it was the first to use interchangeable cartridges. Since this is a system with low interest overall from collectors and retro gamers alike, that also means there's not much info about it on the internet. You can find some details about the system itself...but the individual games? Forget it. I searched for Microvision game recommendations all over the internet when I bought mine and found almost nothing. So I figure posting a few of my thoughts here might help someone else now or in the future. I bought my Microvision and all the U.S. games in 2013, and played it for a couple weeks, and then wrote these reviews while everything was still fresh in my mind: SYSTEM: The Microvision is a primitive handheld with a basic 16x16 LCD screen, often considered the first handheld gaming system. It was designed by Jay Smith, who later designed the Vectrex. At the outset, I would say that this system is best considered as just a piece for collectors-- there is nothing compelling about it from a gameplay standpoint. The games are not as awful as you might expect from a 1979 handheld that can only display 16x16 pixels on the screen-- but there are also definitely no "must play" games that I tried. But there were a couple games that were able to occupy my time for over an hour, which I consider a good feat considering my short attention span. And that's better than I can say for the Game.com. The version I got is a later model (from 1980, I think), and I had no issues with it (no screen rot or other common defects). To the best of my knowledge and research, the Microvision had 11 games released for it in the United States. None are particularly rare, so it's very possible to collect the whole set. A system with a set of several games should run you about $50 on eBay; most games sold individually run about $5-$15. Gameplay (D-): If you buy a Microvision, it shouldn't be for the games, unless you happened to have one as a kid and have some nostalgic longing to replay it. The games are just too simplistic, and the small 16x16 screen made it quite difficult to produce worthwhile games. While there are a few games that could hold your attention in short spurts, there are no must-play games in the entire library. Collectibility (C+): I view the Microvision as more of a collector's piece, and, in that sense, it has a lot going for it. Most notably, of course, it has the distinction of being the first handheld video game system. It's also cheap and easy to collect for. No U.S. game is exceedingly rare or expensive. Most games sell for under $5-$10, and even the rarest can be had for under $20. The system itself is cheap too (my set came with 5 games for $50). On the downside, the desire for this system is low (surely, the simplicity and lack of good games is a key reason) and the system is also prone to technical issues (particularly "screen rot") which makes it more difficult to find and maintain a working system. GAMES: I got a few games with my set on eBay, and then also individually purchased the others, and now have the entire 11-game U.S. library. (There is also a 12th game, Super Blockbuster, released only in Europe, but it is the rarest of the set and I have not been able to get my hands on it.) I've discussed each game below, and placed them in the order of best to worst based on my opinion of them. Generally, I get bored fast with simple games like these, so my idea of "best" was what kept me interested and stayed fun for the longest. I used an A to F grading system, scoring each game based on comparison to the rest of the Microvision library (so an “A” game is only an A in comparison to other Microvision games). [NOTE: Games followed by a * = Instruction Manual Recommended. Due to the rudimentary nature of the games, certain ones are very difficult to figure out (sometimes impossible) by trial-and-error. I've marked these with an *, after the letter score. Fortunately, manuals can often be found online in PDF form, if you don't receive one with the game.] 1. Block Buster (A-): A Breakout clone, and a pretty good one at that, especially considering the limitations of this system. On the hardest setting (fast speed and a one-pixel long paddle), it's impossible and unplayable. But on the easiest setting (slow and three-pixel paddle), it's still very challenging, but it's also fun and addictive. Just beating the first level is an accomplishment on the easiest settings. I spent about an hour or so before finally beating that level, having a "just one more game" mentality the whole time. Actually got so caught up in it, that I ended up a few minutes late to work one day. You can choose from 1-9 balls, and it generally makes sense to choose 9 because the game can be cheap and you lose some of those balls when you shouldn't. Problem is, once I beat the first level, I didn't think I could make it through another level, so my brief addiction ended. And good news-- this game was packaged with every new Microvision back in the day, so any used set should have it. 2. Alien Raiders (A-) (*): Here it is, the peak of "arcade action" on the Microvision. First, despite the name, this is not a Space Invaders clone (in fact, it's unlikely that the Microvision could handle such a clone). And, while it won't give Space Invaders a run for its money, it's a very good arcade-style diversion nonetheless (at least by Microvision standards). In this game, you control a ship (or laser) on the left side of the screen, and alien raiders fly toward you from the right. The goal is to shoot them before they reach your side and "land", at which point it's game over. But there is more to it than just shooting everything in sight. Your ship attacks with a laser beam rather than bullets, and the laser beam will only hit the raiders if it is adjusted to the perfect length (using the control knob) when you fire it. If the beam is too short, or so long that it goes past the raider's ship, then it will not hit the raider. In this sense, there is some true strategy and skill involved in the game. Things get more difficult as you play longer and the objective is to keep besting your high score. 3. Connect Four (B+): Here’s one of the few (or maybe only) official standalone video game versions of Connect Four ever released (since Milton Bradley also made the board game). It has a two-player mode where you hand the console back and forth between turns. You can also play against the computer. The screen is big enough to fit a whole Connect Four board, so it's just like the real game. It's nothing special, but it is what it claims to be. I liked Connect Four as a kid -- in fact, I was the Connect Four champ in second grade!!, my life's greatest achievement -- so maybe that's part of my high score for it. Only bad thing is that sometimes it can be hard to differentiate your pieces from your opponent's on the screen, especially as the board fills up. 4. Mindbuster (B) (*): This is a puzzle game, most similar to Lights Out (the Tiger handheld, also released on Game.com). Mindbuster has two different game modes. One is very easy and the other is very challenging. It'd be nice if there was a middle ground. The game randomly generates puzzles that you try to solve. The more challenging mode kept me busy for a long while trying to solve its puzzles. But I actually don't think I was ever able to solve any of those. Still had fun trying, at least for a little while. 5. Sea Duel (B-) (*): The amount of depth to this game is surprising, and it's by far the deepest game on the Microvision. This is a turn-based strategy game out on the open seas, where one player controls a submarine and the other controls a navy destroyer (either 2 players or versus the CPU). Each player takes a turn moving their ship around the grid and selecting which direction to fire. Then, once both sides have locked in their moves, the actions plays out simultaneously on screen (Milton Bradley even has a fancy name for it -- "Multiple Simultaneous Movement"). The result is that you never know where your opponent will be when your ship fires. So if you shoot where your opponent is currently, there is a chance that he actually moved his ship elsewhere during his turn, but you won't see that until the simultaneous action plays out afterward. Thus, there is a lot of strategy and thinking involved here, as you try to outsmart your opponent with your movements and predicting where he will be when you fire. Think of it like a more active, fluid version of Battleship. I have seen at least one reviewer on another site call this the best game on Microvision -- to me, the pace is a little too plodding for my old school gaming tastes, but with the amount of depth here and a worthy human opponent, I could easily see some people finding this game worthy of a full letter grade higher. 6. Baseball ( C) (*): I expected this game to be awful (I couldn't picture baseball being on a 16x16 screen), but it's not half bad in short spurts. It's actually more like "Home Run Derby" than a full baseball game, because there is no fielding. The ball comes from the pitcher's mound, and you swing the paddle (i.e., your "bat") to hit the ball. Depending on where and how far the ball flies, you'll either get out or hit a single, double, triple, or home run. You go through 9 innings of this. Eventually it gets boring though, as it gets too easy to score once you get past the learning curve (but in a two player mode perhaps it would be better). [An instruction manual is highly recommended with this game, because it is very difficult to figure out the swing mechanism without it.] 7. Bowling (C-): This game is alright for a few games of bowling. The problem, though, is that it's too simplistic so it gets boring pretty fast (even with 2 players). There are ten pins at the top of the screen. Your ball moves back and forth at the bottom of the screen. Timing it just right, you press a button to "release" the ball and it goes towards the pins and knocks down a certain amount depending on where you aimed. Woohoo. 8. Cosmic Hunter (D+) (*): One of the last-released games for the system, so it's one of the harder to find. If you can't find it, you're not missing much. In this game, you're supposedly on an alien planet. You are a dot on the screen (the "hunter") chasing another dot around the screen (an "alien", I think). You have to catch the alien. You can only catch the alien from 2 pixels away -- if you are 3 pixels away then you're too far, and if you're 1 pixel away then the alien eats you. So you have to maneuver yourself 2 pixels away and then press the capture button with perfect timing to catch it. The game keeps your score, which is 1 point per alien caught. There is a little bit of strategy involved, in terms of chasing the alien down and cornering it in areas to set up the captures, because the playing field is a bit maze-like. Give it credit for creativity, but overall, it's just about as lame as it sounds. The game might be more exciting if there were ever multiple aliens on the screen at once instead of just one, but I don't think that happens. 9. Vegas Slots (D-): Now here's a Microvision game your Great Uncle Fred would love. It reminds me of those cheesy $10 slot and poker handheld games that you used to see old people sitting in their recliner playing for hours on end. I never understood the point of simulated gambling games and, of all the gambling games to simulate, I can't imagine one more boring than slots. The fun of slots is the thrill of winning money; take that out of the equation and your left with some sort of lame matching game (where the actual matching is totally out of your control). That being said, if you want a slot simulator, this game works as advertised. The graphics are crude, but it gets the job done. The "highlight" -- if we can call it that -- is the two-player mode, which is comprised of a couple unique slot-based games, including one where you "bank" your winnings as you go along but you lose anything you didn't bank if you get two cherries, and first to 100 points wins. In this way, at least there is some strategy and an objective involved in the 2-player games. 10. Star Trek Phaser Strike [later released on just "Phaser Strike"] (D-): This game is pointless. You control a gun at the bottom of the screen (a ship perhaps, I don't know). Then pixels fly from left to right or right to left across the screen above you (perhaps these are other ships, I don't know), and you must aim and time you shots right to shoot them. That's it.. shoot the horizontally-moving pixels for points. Very lame. Just stick to Alien Raiders for shooting action. 11. Pinball (F): The lamest, dumbest Microvision game of them all. Which is sad, because Pinball just sounds like a game that would have potential on this system. In this game, you do not get 2 flippers like normal pinball. Instead, you have a paddle at the bottom of the screen (like Block Buster, or Breakout). In the field of play, there are four bumpers -- that's it, just four stupid bumpers, that's the whole "pinball machine". So you move your stupid paddle along the bottom of the screen, and use it to hit the stupid ball, and it bounces around the screen, and hopefully hits the stupid bumpers. It keeps your score, which is 1 point for each bumper you hit. This game is incredibly dumb; if you want to use a paddle to hit balls at things, play Block Buster, which is a much better game. I don't know if Pinball is actually the worst Microvision game, but playing it infuriates me so much that I can't imagine it being in any other spot. So that's all, finally. I know this info is sort of useless for most gamers, but I hope it's helpful to the one other guy in the world who decides to buy a Microvision! And at least informative for the rest. I'm glad I got one, if for no other reason than that it's the first handheld system. But overall I can't recommend it if you're only interested in gaming. If anyone feels different on any of these games or has anything to add, please feel free- I'd be interested to hear.

Great guy. Sold him a game and he was very pleasant to work with, as always. Quick and easy transaction. Thanks Fuji!

Could definitely be right; I do think it would sell if placed at that price. This has been sort of an "experiment" of mine. I'm not in any rush to sell it. It's more of a curiosity to me, since there's no data on what these types of gaming memorabilia are worth to people. As we know, it just takes two competing bidders and one unique item to turn something from a $2 thing into a $200 thing. So I started with an auction listing at $99 to see if bidding would happen and tried to promote the auction on a few forums I visit. (I don't usually promote my ebay listings, but the "experiment" was more meaningful if I got word out.) Then did BIN at $99. Now at $74 with BIN. People have viewed and watched it, so we'll see how it goes. But this particular listing is more about the curiosity for me than the money or final sale price.

See the original post above, as I've reduced the price and posted an update.

Nice "Wanted" posters...it almost makes me want to help capture 'em for you!.... I have a factory sealed copy of Commando for 7800 in nice condition. Been planning to sell it. If interested, feel free to PM me an offer. I also have Beamrider (loose for 2600) posted on Amazon right now at $33 +shipping (I'm the the lowest price on there), but for you Fuji, I'd take it down if you're willing to meet me in the middle.

Great guy to do a deal with. Bought a system box from him. He packaged it perfectly and shipped it quick. Thanks! Very happy here.

little bump. By the way, a box for any model of the Atari 2600 would work for me. And as mentioned, I'm open to any other console or handheld boxes as well. Boxes for 80s computers even.

It's a lot to comb through, but I did watch some of these videos when I first learned of it, and it's great stuff. Especially with all the great people they were able to get together for the interviews. It's clear how much they loved working on the system and how important it was in their lives, just by the fact that they would want to do these videos. And by 1997, the VCS was already making its "comeback" as a retro gaming console. Single-handedly starting this hobby that we're all here for. That retro resurgence, of course, inspired this ill-advised 1998 sequel to Stella at 20 (I think): http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0120703/

Sorry sir but there's no way they could have predic--.... Hold on, wait a second, is that guy trying to "grab her by the ....."??

Yes, the Logitech was analog and probably the best option. I do have a sealed Logitech controller in my collection, though unfortunately it's not for sale. According to the packaging, it appears to be analog. To show what it looks like, I've shared the photo off my computer here. I was fortunate to get my set when the stuff was a little more common, but I feel your pain man. I probably bought this stuff in like 2008 and the controller was expensive even then (as were Tempest and Space Invaders).

I've been on a "box only" kick lately, buying some system boxes to display in my gameroom. I figured I'd do a WTB post on here to see if you guys have any spares lying around. First off, I would be interested in any box for any system. I collect for every system out there, mainstream or obscure. However, naturally, I'm more interested if it's a box I don't already have. Atari 2600 is probably the main one on my "to-buy" list at the moment, so that's why I mention it in the title. Colecovision, Intellivision, Virtual Boy, Sega 32X, and Sega CD are a few others I can think of that I don't have. But there's many others. Handheld system boxes are good too. The price I would pay would depend on the system, the condition, whether I already have it, whether it has any contents (foam, manual, etc.), and so on. I probably wouldn't be willing to swing more than $25-$30 shipped on a box, and that would be for an early Atari 2600 box in good condition. I think that's at or close to ebay prices, while saving you the hassle and fees. By comparison, I'd have a hard time justifying even $10 on an N64 box, just because I already have two decent ones. (I wouldn't expect someone to accept that low of a price..simply pointing out that I'd pay fair value for some and can't pay fair value for others.) So that's the price range I'd be looking at, just to give a heads up in advance. But, for the right box, I might be more flexible, so don't feel hesitant to PM me. Also, if you have any manuals, foam, or other box contents, I'd likely be more interested. But I'm fine with empty boxes. I do already have boxes for a number of my systems and handhelds (off the top of my head.... NES, SNES, N64, Master System, Genesis, Dreamcast, PS1/PS2/PS3, Xbox/Xbox 360, CD-i, Odyssey, Odyssey 2, and several more). However, if it's a variant of my box or if you're trying to get rid of it at a low price, I may still be interested in buying a duplicate. I am not super crazy about condition--I'd consider a box as long as it's sturdy enough to stand up and be displayed, and doesn't have damage/mutilation to the point of being unsightly. Creases and heavy wear are not dealbreakers. For me, condition just factors into price. If you have something, feel free to shoot me a PM, preferably with photo(s).

Exactly. It looks clean and in very good condition. If only he marketed it that way instead of claiming it's new....

Well, here's a "NEW" Atari 2600. Yes, he claims it's New. Just ignore the fact that it was taken out of the box years ago, has no controllers or accessories, has been played but only to "test it" (just trust him, ok!), and it comes with some old beat up game. Yes, essentially everything you'd hope for from a new console is missing here... BUT you do get the piece of mind of knowing his buddy at Radio Shack "told him it's new" and the original box was just thrown out because it was water damaged (which bodes real well for the system too). Yep, all this could be yours for just $100.. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Atari-2600-New-no-box-/252611435844?

Hey guys. I have a factory sealed Earthworm Jim 2 for SNES (a legit copy with H-seam and hang tag) that I just posted last night. I have it set at $399, but I am accepting offers. I've already gotten a couple good offers since last night, but while I mull those over, I wanted to give anyone interested here a chance too. Especially since this very rarely shows up on ebay. If interested, please feel free to "Buy it Now" or make an offer, the sooner the better (due to the pending offers that I am going to respond to). Here's the link: eBay Auction -- Item Number: 322314597228 I also have a factory sealed Dr. Mario for NES (with H-seam). This is a really pristine copy, maybe even uncirculated. One of the nicest looking sealed games I've had in my collection. I have it at $125, but accepting reasonable offers: eBay Auction -- Item Number: 322308817857 I also still have my signed copy of Mortal Kombat II for Genesis (complete) up on ebay. It's signed by Daniel Pesina, who starred as Johnny Cage and the ninjas in the MK 1 & 2 video games. As an "experiment" I had given it a shot at auction-style for $99, but it didn't sell. So I'm now accepting offers on it: eBay Auction -- Item Number: 322312064541 Lastly, I have the rare Gargoyle's Quest II for NES (cart only) and Zombies Ate My Neighbors for Genesis (complete) also posted, both with Buy It Now prices: eBay Auction -- Item Number: 322304202932 eBay Auction -- Item Number: 322308796769 I don't promote my auctions much, but since Earthworm Jim 2 has been getting some buzz, I decided to share with you guys before it gets scooped up. Figured I'd list the others while I was here. I plan to start listing a bunch more of my games over the next couple months, especially SNES and NES doubles soon, so please keep an eye out. Even complete copies of Super Metroid and Twisted Tales of Spike McFang, both for SNES. Trying to clear out the clutter while I set up my new gameroom. Thanks for looking!