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rednakes1

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About rednakes1

  • Rank
    Chopper Commander
  • Birthday 08/07/1976

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
  1. Received in Canada today. Thanks for your hard work! Very nice packaging, I am impressed.
  2. This is one of the more useful mods out there. I finally got the courage to try this out after doing the A/V mod months ago. Thank you very much for the diagram. The only hard part about this hack is drilling and filing the rectangular hole to put the switch in. It took me an hour to file it (after drilling two holes) but that's because I was being very careful. You can also mount the switch at the back like I did so that it doesn't "ruin" the original look of the console. See my attachment.
  3. I have a spare ColecoVision controller that has a non-working keypad, which I have been unable to repair. I was wondering if anyone has a keypad (not the entire controller) they are willing to part with. I'm in Canada.
  4. Just wondering anyone has any idea about this problem concerning a rolling interference pattern on my AV-modded Colecovision. I'm attaching a photo to demonstrate what I am seeing on my CRT TV. It's a set of diagonal rolling lines on the screen that disappear after several seconds and then show up again. It drives me nuts, especially in games with a blue background (eg. The Coleco blue skill selection screen, or Evolution title screen). This problem is most visible on my AV (composite) connection but also shows up on the RF coax input as well, though not as noticeable because the lower quality hides it a bit. I've tried the transistor AV mod as well as the op amp version of the mod, and neither rectified the issue. I've also tried two different power supplies, cleaned the power switch and PCB, and tried different TV sets (CRT and LCD). I don't want to waste any more time on this but was just hoping someone can help out. Someone else had this same problem a couple years back and he ended up selling the unit and buying another one, which didn't have the problem. So it wasn't an issue with his power socket or location.
  5. Bumping this old thread because I have been pulling my hair out trying to fix the same issue. Jeremy mentioned he eventually sold this CV and got another one later that worked better. So it doesn't look like an issue with his location and power socket. I'm attaching a photo to demonstrate what I am seeing. It's a set of random lines on the screen that show up, disappear after several seconds and then show up again in the same or different orientation. It drives me nuts, especially in games with a blue background (eg. The skill select screen, or Evolution title screen). This problem is most visible on my AV (composite) connection but also shows up on the RF coax input as well, though not as noticeable because the lower quality hides it a bit. I've tried the transistor AV mod as well as the op amp version of the mod, and neither rectified the issue. I've also tried two different power supplies, cleaned the power switch and PCB, and tried different TV sets (CRT and LCD). I don't want to waste any more time on this but was just hoping someone can help out. Mine is a Revision J motherboard.
  6. Did you manage to solve the issue? Did you put the metal lid for the RF box back on after modding? You might have shorted one of your wires or components with the lid.
  7. The pot is above the Atari cartridge slot. I have a picture here. EDIT: I believe you can access the pot even when the expansion module is not opened, and when plugged into the CV. Just use a screwdriver to adjust it.
  8. Okay, figured it out! Pin 8 on the controller port (which controls the joystick and left fire button) goes to the grey connector at the bottom of the PCB. With my multimeter I noticed there was no connectivity between the grey connector and the track that leads to a solder point near the middle of the controller, which was likely due to a broken trace again. So I soldered another wire...and now it works! Here's a photo attached. Pardon my shoddy solder job, but it works now and I'm happy
  9. So I saw this page with a description of the pinouts: http://old.pinouts.ru/Game/colecovision_controller_pinout.shtml "when pin 5 is connected to power, the keypad and right trigger are activated. When pin 8 is powered, the joystick and left trigger are activated." Ah, so that exactly fits my issue. My pin 8 is not getting power. So I'll have to figure out how to fix that.
  10. Yesterday I tried out a Colecovision controller that I bought at the flea market for very cheap. Unfortunately, I got what I paid for, as it has been giving me a lot of grief. The original problem was that the Up and Right directions did not register at all. With my multimeter I was able to narrow this down to damaged traces on the PCB. So I fixed this problem by connecting a wire to the parts that could not be reached by the Up and Right direction contacts, as can be seen in the attached photo. Afterwards everything worked great, the controls were smooth and perfect! However, after a few minutes I noticed that the controls intermittently would stop working for a second or two, and then come back again, and then stop working again. This went on for a few minutes and got worse and worse (longer stoppages), until none of the controls except for the Right fire button worked at all. I noticed all of the keys on the keypad were working as well. Does anyone know what could have caused this?? Judging by the intermittent behaviour, it seems like a cold solder joint somewhere but I don't know how to narrow it down. Do all the controller directions and left fire button eventually share a common point? I can't figure out why only the right fire button is working (along with the keypad). Could this be a diode issue? I also tried my other Colecovision controllers on the same controller port and they work fine.
  11. This is the picture I took last year, so here are the connections. (See attached) The wires are really thin in this kit so I wonder if that has any impact. I did put the RF shield cover back on and routed the wires out a hole, but that makes no difference. EDIT: From top to bottom, the wiring is: Ground, Audio, Video, 12V
  12. I did a composite mod last year in my CV using the kit from coolretroprojects. Unfortunately the kit actually made it look worse so I went back to my coax connection. Now that I have some time I would like to investigate this further. Also I could also attempt a different mod using my own parts. For instance, I see a fair bit of noise in the screen with the composite output... kind of like faint diagonal lines one moment, then horizontal lines, then other types of interference patterns. It's not horrible but the changing noise gets annoying on games with blue backgrounds such as the Evolution title screen. Anyone else had this experience? Ideas?
  13. This resistor mod is only for the Rev 14 and lower motherboards for the 4-switch woodgrain atari 2600s. Not the Jr, which has superior colour to the 4-switch. I haven't been able to compare to a 6-switcher however.
  14. Works perfect, but light as a feather, so it may seem cheap to someone if you're trying to sell an Atari. But it does the job and that's what counts.
  15. Yeah I realized that, but don't think I need a fancy one, just something 'good enough' for this old system.
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