H454

He is pretty busy. It might take a couple days to a week to get back to you. Last time I sent him a msg, I took a while. Don't worry, he'll get back to you.

100% ^this. I've done the RAM upgrade on a couple coleco's and this is the way to go!- MUCH less of a headache.

I think Its been mentioned a couple of times to others, FYI, DON"T start threads using Tapatalk on Atari Age. It posts multiple new threads, not just one.

Even with a desoldering gun it's not a couple of minutes - thats for sure. But that is the hardest part / 95% of the install. If these where socketed, most people wouldn't hesitate to do it themselves. $125 for a zero lag nes upscaler built in and overclocking / stereo options - its totally worth it. If I didn't have a PVM And a lowbudeget super 8 bit with RGB output, this is what Id use. But with the AVS from retrousb doing the same thing (mostly),Thats the real question as to why bother with the upgrade? I'm pretty sure having the AVS out is why it's been so slow to get new HDMI kits. Here is a good topic discussing the two: https://www.reddit.com/r/nes/comments/6235oo/looking_for_advice_hidef_nes_mod_vs_retrousb_avs/

How much do you think desoldering two 40 pin ic with out wreaking them is worth? I've done two of these installs, both on top loaders ( Much easier than front loader). Both TL nes where about $70, the kits $125 and an led installed under the power switch. Sold the first for $350 on CL and the other for $300 on Ebay - both no hook ups. So $105 to $155 on my end for "installation" - with out pre-assembled interposers. Voltare lists $105 with led mod and soldering interpossers. Which seems pretty reasonable. But who knows when / if the next batch on nes hdmi are going to be made? Thats probably why they are so high on eBay right now. I've got a cheap TL NES that I am debating either a RGB or HDMI kit to install and flip.

The older Xboxes & 360's can be finicky. I have a 360 That I hadn't turned on in like 3-4 YEARS. Newer model. Hit the power button, red light on the PSU. And RROD Spent the better parts of two days and two "new" PSU's trying to reset / get it working. What finally "fixed" it: Blowing the "dust" out. Yep - not even stored it a dirty / dust area. So if any gets an old 360 with a red PSU light - some tips: Plug it strait into the wall, no power strips / filters (per Microsoft). Disconnect Everything and reinstall - Try the original A/V connector with the HDMI unplugged. Use some compressed air and blow the crap out - you may need to do this 2-3 times. Try Holding down the eject button when powering on. I don't remember what specifically this does, but after the forth time I did it - success! Hopefully this will save somebody some headaches down the road.

Its item # 122928449313 Here is A LINK - https://www.ebay.com/itm/Atari-800-XL-8-Bit-Computer-Lot-SIO2PC-Cable-1050-Disc-Drive-Plus-Tested-Works/122928449313?hash=item1c9f1b4721:g:jPMAAOSw~T9aZpxM Staring bid $299 plus shipping. This is all info that should have included the first post.

The High end macs had AAUI ports at least as early as the Quarda 700 (1991). I don't know when 10baset boxes became available thou.

I've noticed apple is really picky with what works on SCSI. Getting non-apple stuff to work is usually a PITA. Even getting third party CD-drives to work is a trick. I don't Know 100% If a PDS network card will work with a 630. If so, these are pretty cheap: https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Apple-Computer-Macintosh-Mac-Color-Classic-PDS-Ethernet-Card-LC-Performa/272846522387?epid=2241961242&hash=item3f86eb8813:g:WloAAOSwQBFZub0Y

Just A heads up - with the pizza box macs - plan on recapping them. I have 5 of them and I've had to cap 4 of them. If they won't start up any more or start squealing (really, they whine too), those are sure sign of bad caps. Here is a list of caps for some mac models: http://www.maccaps.com/MacCaps/Capacitor_Reference/Archive.html Also, The video RAM has to be installed for the board to work and the DRAM has to be matches pairs. Just some useless info that may come in handy later.

I had no problems using my Harmony cart in either of my Sears II units.

I have some OLD rom packs. Is this It?: Daring Do versus the Everfree Forest (Pitfall! Hack) (2012) (plusX).bin

Are you running the sound through (what I'm assuming is a genesis jack) as the video? The RGB instructions recommend running the sound out separately due to interference.

If it is just ONE RCA jack and its an old tv(like 90 or older), It might be RF. I have a couple of antenna switches with a "game" RCA Port. How bout some pics?

Yea, the new connectors are made really cheaply. Break very easily. So much so, I don't even bother with the cheap ends. I found with the cheap stuff, the money saved is then lost with the time and frustration from using them.

When I cut the tip off, I'll put a little bead of solder. If you do it right, the tip looks the same as new.

Bump

I'd say the "one chip" SNES are probably the most reliable. Keeping everything clean (cart port) and clean power source is all you can do. I use surge protectors with power filters on everything now. After having a giant Plasma TV crap out, $30 on a surge protector is cheap insurance. Was your bad board a one chip? If so, how much would your want for it?

Yep, I used to pick the one closest to me. Then I only had to pay the handling charge ($2) instead of shipping and handling. Plus they will have the stuff people bid on, but never picked up. I got a Tandy model 100 with case a manual for $5. It was broken though.

You can contact them and ask them what you need for you set-up. Saying you need "rgb scart cable(s)" can mean almost anything. No body knows what your setting up, so store links are the best anybody can do. Maybe start a new thread with what you want to connect to what. Because it might get complicated. Meaning what kind of monitor, what exactly you plan to connect to the monitor and if you plan to connect anything else.

That eBay store got switched to a real website: https://retro-access.com/ Also really good (I ordered all my scart / RGB cables from them): https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/

Yup, hot air station. But it's totally not worth the time it takes to do it. Also, Its like $30 (retrofixes.com) for the mod kit the add RGB and s-video to a jr. If you only want s-video, its two wires to solder. Actually the same kit is $15 from console5. https://console5.com/store/nintendo-multiav-add-on-rgb-bypass-s-video-kit.html But I think It is solder your self kit.

Are you using an USB power supply because the 5V out is regulated? I'm just wondering why not use a barrel connector for strength? Female board mount Mini/micro usb are usually where something breaks. I've just had so many connectors I fixed over the years it just leaves me with a bad option of them. But, the design looks great! I can't wait to try it!

I was wondering how many boards were made. Kinda of disappointing that the new ones were going for almost the same price as an old one. Last auction on eBay I saw for an Org. trans-warp went for over $650 +shipping - "as-is / Untested". Maybe 10 @ $777 was so they could make a larger run (fingers crossed)? I would think if the price point was under $300, it would be pretty easy to sell 50 to 100. I know the IIgs is no Amiga when it comes to after market upgrades. But it might be case of "their is no market, so nobody makes it". And that means some times that is no market until someone makes it - A "build it and they will come" situation.

The snes jr is at least three versions newer of the video processors. They even went from two ICs to one. One of the ic revisions may have been to fix something like this. Snes are one of the cases where older they are, the less desirable they become. I just got a jr because it was a one chip and did the rgb mod. They rgb difference between a 2 chip and a one chip is night and day.