Jump to content

JGRAHAM2

Members
  • Content Count

    111
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by JGRAHAM2

  1. I have used toggle switches and dip switches. This is the easiest to use and fits easily.
  2. Thanks. Most 600XLs are fully socketed. All 4 of mine are.
  3. I have 4 of them too. I bought them as untested and had intended on putting a RaspberryPI in one of them, but I’ve been able to fix them or there was nothing wrong with them, so I have 4 working 600XLs. I have upgraded 3 with UAV, one with 64kb RAM, one 576KB and one with U1MB. The last will likely be upgraded to 64KB SRAM and left as it is otherwise. That upgrade is solder-less and easily reversible.
  4. And, in my experience, they are usually in almost new condition. I don’t think they got a lot of use unless someone gamed with them.
  5. What do you think? It has a 576K RAM upgrade. 4 OS ROMs, 8 cartridge ROMs, and UAV. I am using DIP switches for ROM selection. I have done better with the opening for the monitor jack. I should have taken more pictures before I closed it up.
  6. I did something similar only it was my Indus floppy drive. The display went crazy when on the AC supply and then it went black. Fortunately, it was just the fuse in the 1050 supply that blew. The Indus was fine.
  7. I bought these and they work great both in size and function. Thanks!
  8. Well, after putting the aluminum cage back together, it again did not work, so I reflowed the power connectors on both the power supply and the mainboard and it is finally stable and back together with the formerly shattered case. Not perfect, but from the front, it looks pretty good!
  9. After replacing both sockets for POKEY and PIA with precision sockets, SIO now works. Thanks to all who helped especially DrVenkman who pointed me to the sockets as the possible problem.
  10. I did find that the socket for the Pokey chip was as you described. The 28 pin would check good sometimes and sometimes not. It was clear that it lacked spring tension. I replaced it with a precision socket. It is acting different, but is still not working. Pin 28 is looking good now. I’ll work on it again tonight with the scope. I was looking at the field service manual on what I should see.
  11. I have both. I’ll try that.
  12. Thanks, that is why I tested with the cassette recorder. I have verified that both Pokey and PIA are good based on switching them out with a spare board and testing there. (Spare board is an 800XL)
  13. I haven’t tried with a real drive yet. I did with a tape drive as I was working on one. It starts the tape, but fails to load.
  14. I looked at the schematics and there is not much between the SIO port and the PIA and POKEY chips. Some resistors and capacitors. The resistors check fine in circuit. Capacitors are harder to check, but they are not shorted. The power board/ mainboard connector looks good. I ran Super SALT, but I don’t have the test fixture or “SIO shorting plug”, which I assume is a loopback, does anyone have a wiring diagram for that?
  15. I checked the resistors and all look good. Continuity looks good. Voltages look good at the power board/mainboard connector.
  16. I checked the resistors and all look good. Continuity looks good. Voltages look good at the power board/mainboard connector.
  17. Thanks, I will do this later today and report back here.
  18. I wonder if you had something conductive shorting something out and the air dislodged it. I had an issue recently with a 130XE and it was a bit of solder.
  19. I did that and no difference. I, at first, thought Pokey or PIA, but tried both and that’s not it.
  20. I have an 800 that works great, except for SIO. It will not boot from an S-Drive Max or FujiNet even if they are externally powered. I have tried to replace all daughter cards with spares and also all major ICs on the motherboard. Anyone have any ideas on how to troubleshoot?
  21. I have 38 8 bit Atari Computers and 2 working motherboards.
  22. Mine was different as well. I did the same as you and remapped it. I believe he had a note not to depend on the colors.
  23. Looks like one was made in the US and the other in Taiwan. The US one had a darker shade on the Help key.
  24. One did not have the plungers and the circuit boards were a different color. Of course someone could have replaced the keyboard with a fully populated XE keyboard....
  25. One did not have the plungers and the circuit boards were a different color.
×
×
  • Create New...