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Bruce Tomlin

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About Bruce Tomlin

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    River Patroller

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    CD C9 01
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    San Antonio, TX

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  1. The main feature of Sally is just having the HALT line that isn't in a normal 6502, right? I guess it depends on if you can make RDY work like HALT. Doesn't HALT work by stopping the CPU, but RDY just pauses a bus access for slow memory? So I'm going to guess that RDY doesn't free up the address bus. But it seems that on the 65816 there's the BE pin which will disable the address buss. So I guess it would be do-able as a plug-in replacement with a 65816. It's just not worth the effort with a plain 6502 because Best Electronics still has plenty. And I can see how 8-bit users might want one. And in fact, I found this thread: Here is someone trying the reverse, a 6502C in place of a 6502: http://forum.6502.org/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=4190 And here is some information about Sally: http://ushomeautomation.com/Projects/Atari/65816.html
  2. Tandy used ALPS mechanical keyswitches for the III/IV and I think also the later Model I with the keypad. You can tell from the sculpted matte finish key caps, but also from the signature T stem on the key mechanism. The main downside is that ALPS stopped making them, and Cherry won the mechanical keyboard market. The original Model I used a very hard to repair type of keyboard that was molded as one big piece of plastic, with metal finger contacts and a square frame plunger thing that the key cap slips into. Pulling out the plunger is likely to mess up the metal fingers. I have an old Lear Seigler ADM3A terminal that I'm restoring where those square frame plungers have split and the keys stick. TI-99/4 and Atari 800 also used those kind of keys. I've read where people used a hole drill to cut an entire key mechanism out of an Atari 800 keyboard to get repair parts.
  3. Yeah, no. The hardware may be similar but it's all mixed up. In particular, CV puts the VDP interrupt on NMI, which is super stupid because reading the VDP status register in between bytes will break loading the VDP address register, and that's kind of what you need to do when you get a VDP interrupt. The controllers aren't even wired the same. When I ported Girl's Garden, I had to make it set a flag, then keep checking for the flag in the main game code. I also had to turn EI and DI into macros. And SG-1000 has no ROM at all, it just boots the cartridge. I was so happy that the guy hadn't discovered RLE graphics compression, it gave me a lot of space for that crap.
  4. FWIW, Sony only sold a 40GB drive. Supposedly it had MagicGate support in its firmware, which is why you couldn't use any old hard drive back in the day. I don't know too much about how 3rd-party drives work on a hacked PS2, but having FMcB run from a 3rd-party HD with no memory card is not something I expected to work, so there must be more to it than I thought.
  5. Don't use 8.0 with PPC. Just don't. When I got a Power Computing tower, it came with 8.0 and it would randomly freeze up. The mouse cursor would just freeze and I had to reboot. And that was so much fun because this was years before HFS journaling so I would be listening to that clackety-clack for a few minutes each time. So I went back to the last 7.5.x. When 8.1 came out, it worked fine. Otherwise I never had any particular problems with the most up-to-date of any line (7.0, 7.5, 8.1). Except maybe 9.2.2, I seem to recall that it was just an updater and I couldn't install more packages from the OS install disk because now it was a different version. So stick with 9.2.1 for that.
  6. Note: unless you're using an SMD heat tool with a sufficiently small tip, be sure to put aluminum foil around the area you want heated to mask the heat from where you don't want it. Otherwise you will have a de-soldered switch mounted to a warped case.
  7. I like the idea of using an old light switch for a gear shift, partly because I have a bunch left after replacing every one I could with decora-style switches. You could even glue on a handle of some sort, maybe from a couple inches of small PVC pipe. The only real limitation is that with DC, you can't switch nearly as many volts or amps without worrying about arcs, but for controller use there's no problem. (I've also considered using a couple of contractor boxes worth of decora switches to make huge toggle switch panels for retro computing!) As for the dimmer, I think the ones that aren't electronic usually use a wire-wound rheostat, which isn't going to have the resistance you need for a paddle. If you can gut it, you could install a regular potentiometer, then use light switch plate parts to mount everything together. The ones that are electronic and have a knob, I guess if the potentiometer has the right value you could gut them and just use that, but they're probably like 20 bucks.
  8. It would be possible, but there's no point. I long ago disassembled most of the games (to make a comprehensive list of ROM entry points that were used, to make an optimized BIOS), and saw nothing that knew about any sort of hardware other than the standard CV.
  9. Yesterday I went to get a Roland System 1 synth at a pawn shop that I had been waiting for the next price drop day on it. It's an analog emulation synth, and I wanted it to play around with. It turned out to have a dead high E key (of 2 octaves), and it took me about 2 hours to clean it properly to work again. Hooray for rubber domes and carbon dots! I have a random little Akai keyboard with a dead low C key, so now I'm going to fix it too. On the way I discovered a hole-in-the-wall thrift store and found a PS2 Midway Arcade Treasures 3 for five bucks. The Wii uDraw also can be used with a microcontroller project, like any of the other plug-in controllers. I just buy cheap extension cables from China and cut off the other end. It's so nice that Nintendo used I2C for those. I'm not sure what kind of project I'd do with a pen pad control, but it's good to know in case I come up with an idea. Try one of those universal remotes if you have one lying around. I use one to control a Bose Wave in the next room over (with appropriate line of sight).
  10. What is that artwork on those cartridges? It looks like a few 20-sided dice? Then it had to be from some college thing. No idea what they would go into, but I think that kind of 44-pin connector was pretty common as cheap surplus parts, so it could have been for some kind of custom system. I notice that it has two EPROMs but no decoder chip, so whatever the board plugged into decoded the chip selects for it. Those holes for diodes are interesting, probably some sort of configuration thing for different game sizes.
  11. Bruce Tomlin

    PAX South 2020

    Got my badge in the mail a couple of days ago.
  12. You meant AUDV0/AUDV1 in that table, right?
  13. Could be one of a few things... - cartridge edge connector could be dirty - cartridge slot could be dirty - cartridge slot could be weak from too much use of circuit boards that are too thick (not very common) - board could have a problem like being cracked (chip can be transplanted to a donor board) - chip could be fried First thing to do would be to try it in another system.
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