Bruce Tomlin

But if you noticed, Ray Kassar had a hand in it too, by getting in trouble with the SEC, and eventually having to resign from Atari, thus paving the way for Jack Tramiel to screw things up in his own way. GCC was tight with Warner management and could have helped lead Atari out of its own arrogance, if things hadn't completely fallen apart with the Warner sell-off and the Tramiel lay-offs.

Actually, the code should be using BCC and BCS. BPL and BMI merely check the sign bit of the result. If there's an overflow, this will NOT be correct for a greater than/less than comparison. BPL and BMI are half of a signed comparison along with BVC/BVS, while BCC and BCS are for an unsigned comparison. CMP #value BCC label ; if A < value CMP #value BCS label ; if A >= value

In case anyone hasn't seen this yet: http://www.penny-arcade.com/view.php3?date=2004-06-11

It was on Slashdot last week. The general consensus was that it looks like a toilet. The word "retarded" was even used. It's not too impressive. Really. He didn't even bother to unify the NES and SNES controllers.

Somewhere I've got a complete copy of this, but I don't know where in my stuff it's physically located right now. I've still got a lot of cleaning up to do before I find it. Unfortunately, it seems its manual is NOT in the AtariAge files.

For those interested in Crazy Otto information, here is what I've been able to find: Video Games Magazine, Feb 1982 (it's on page 2, so use the second link) http://www.gamearchive.com/General/Article...2-83DrVideo.htm http://www.gamearchive.com/General/Article...-83DrVideo2.htm And a screen shot from http://www.beercade.com/video/mspacman/mspacman.htm :

Nope, just a touch typist. If I were a stenographer, it would have been done already.

I'm trying to transcribe this for those would rather read it. I've done about 15 minutes so far, out of 65:36. Maybe it'll be ready by the end of the week.

Spy Hunter sucks without proper controllers, especially when you're running a conversion, like the NES version, which has no support for decent controllers at all. It's great in the original cabinet. I think the accellerator is supposed to be analog, and I'd like to play it that way on an emulator someday.

Now I remember why I was playing the C64 version back in the mid '90s. It didn't have these bugs. I don't know whether SID or POKEY makes better sound, so I'll leave that war to someone else.

A few words about the encryption might have been nice, but basically it was great.

Cooper Black isn't a company, it's the font used for the game title on the label. Which this one is. (I could even have been the first to call them that, but I don't want to bother looking it up with Google now.)

That's not good enough. A bad solder joint will look just fine except upon really close (magnifying glass) inspection, you may notice a circular crack around the pin. Just get in there and reflow all the solder joints for the plug connectors. Those cold solder joints are as annoying as hell. I first learned about them when my old original Macintosh video would simply flip off. Beating on it would eventually bring it back. Eventually I noticed the ring crack on the pin for the video signal and figured out what was going on. One time I found a broken Genesis 2 that was flaky as hell. Upon opening it up, I could see that half of the connector pins (power AND video AND joystick) had bad solder joints.

Huh? The bootleg game units use Famicom slots. Not too many folks out there (in the USA, at least) with extra Famicom carts to put in them, or systems to put the Super Joy carts into. So how many of you folks have noticed that Ken hasn't said anything else in this thread so far?

Only if you're using this to make a bank switched ROM using RORG. And there's no need for one at $FFFC because there's no labels there.

Atari never sucked, just some of the people in charge. Then again, without Ray Kassar's superb management style, we never would have had Activision.

A few years back I was jammin' with the C-64 cartridge version of this. It's an extremely excellent game. The 800/5200 versions are supposed to be good too, but I don't think I'd want to play it with a regular 5200 stick.

Hey, that's a great way to get rid of a few old commons! I do wonder what they're using for the hinge, though. I hope it's not just "glue down some felt and hope it doesn't wear out". That Imagic cart was probably a pain to hinge, whatever they did. As for the screams of "they could be used in homebrews!", get real. There are plenty of commons out there (that's why we call 'em commons), and there's no way this can even make a slight dent in the supply. When AtariAge raises their bounty from 50 cents, then you can start worrying. And those "rom chip dogtags" are just the edge connector sawed off of the PCB. (Who but a total nerd would tolerate the chip pins scratching up their neck?) Six bucks for those is a great way to make easy cash.

Ummmm... "CHROMA LUMA" is S-video. Only us crazy folks with old Commodore monitors have anything with separate chroma/luma jacks, so that's even less useful than an S-video port. And stereo output from a 2600 is way overrated. As long as the board design has lots of tap points on it for mods, I'll be happy. P.S. I just found out that Fry's has chroma/luma RCA-F to S-video-M cables for five bucks. I'd have preferred S-video-F, but this is still great, because now I can use more of my C= monitors without having to make more #@%!! S-video adaptor cables.

Not good enough. Then they'll just pull some random gaijin in off the streets of Roppongi and you'll get voice acting like the mad scientist from the "wooden mecha" bit in the anime Robot Carnival. Not quite as bad as Japanese people pronouncing English badly, but not much better.

...like Jakk's has been making them.

And I was glad that someone else had gotten a program working to generate 7800 signatures, so I could take my time on it. The past five years or so, I haven't really been able to do much recreational programming (moving from San Antonio to Austin to get a job, then having to get another job, then buying a house and getting the rest of my crap slowly moved up the highway during weekend trips, all while my main hobby at the time was anime fandom), or I would have done this long ago.

Have you tried more than one set of joysticks? Broken flex circuits (caused by opening the controllers without removing the start row bezel first) can cause fire buttons to not work. The other possiblity is one of the CMOS 4052 chips on the motherboard going bad, which requires desoldering work to replace.