Boojakascha

Do you have stock again?

"pretty much died" and "almost" is the perfect form to put it, as there were some very, very few exceptions =)

Thanks ckrtech I have all parts ready (presumably, until I discover something is missing). In the mean time I tried with the DOS of a Windows 95 machine (compaq, everthing original, nothing fiddled by me). It gave me the same result as with Windows 98SE's DOS. Especially Crazy Shot is hard to run. This weekend I won't be able to continue. The soonest next weekend, but I will see. In the Windows 98SE PC I swapped the apr. 500 MHz CPU for a apr. 1 GHz CPU just for the LOLs and so far none of the games which are of interest to me are affected. I think I am lucky and all the games that intrigue me are made independent from clock speed.

Hello jschipmann Please never ever trash the system =) I would love to get the Shootout at Old Tucson to run! I will help hunting the arcade board for you. To the others: Is there a way to dump this BIOS without actually removing it?

What I tried is connecting two Mignon cells to pin 16 (plus) and 18 (minus) over a resistor, with a battery caddy hanging down from the SCART socket. I think I had limited success. However eventually I owned a G-SCART and stopped using this kludge.

About blanking: The Analogue NT mini has none too. What I do to inject blanking manually is having a battery trail at a SCART socket, or (BETTER) having a G-SCART router. Possibly Hydra is also feasible.

Thanks. Next time I will know.

Hello I am seeking the plug and play game "Operation: Cobra Mission". It was sold by the American company SDW Games. Does anybody have this and is willing to sell it? Amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LC0URK/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I3EU46FKKNJBIY&colid=TK05IDXSSNHF Apparantly there were ports for Chinese Wii clones as well: With kind regards Beb

The 480, 240 thing is just the old interlaced versus progressive story. As long as your capture card behaves correct it won't be to much of a problem in order to compare qualities. Does the console still output s-video after the mod?

So you want us to wait for trying, or shall we cut a trace and wire a quick fix? I am afraid your YouTube link points to anybodys "myVideos" and not to your specifically.

Wow, good to know! Thanks a lot! It does! As you said it works with a lot of games. However, there are two games from 1988 not running properly. So I resort to an older DOS. I start fishing with DOS 6.22

Yes, I expected most cards stop functioning. Ha, that's darn new! You give me hope, kind Sir!! =) Do you swap cables manually, or just simply alter boot priority in bios? (to choose OS)

Hello I have built a Windows 98SE gaming PC. It runs very fine and I can play all the games I want, except West Phaser and Crazy Shot. These are strict DOS games, and they run bad from DOS mode of Windows 98SE. I had the idea of inserting a second HD into the PC, from which I would boot if necessary. This one would contain an version of DOS of the needed era. The main board is form the year 2000 though. The CPU is a Pentium III. Is it feasibly, or is the plan absurdly impossible? Did someone else tried something similar? I am afraid that DOS wont work with any component on my whole main board, but I don't have any experience in performing such a crude down grade. With kind regards Ben

Just bought a Japanese FZ-1. So now I am ready.

I would be in as tester. I can put the stuff onto the PCB myself I guess, I have decent tools. I have to buy a 3DO though. Is your PCB compatible with all models? I can strap a thin wire to the diode, I don't think it will be a problem.

Wow, thanks a lot, that would be very generous! =)

That's nice. I just dropped another payment, as I well understand that you are not a company, but just a cool guy making 8 bit nerds happy^^

I tried. It results in the same picture as shown before. It is looks exactly the same as if I screwed it onto the terminal. I received my ESR meter early and have it already at hand. Is are there any particular capacitors worth checking?

Here is another picture of bug hunter. It has again all colors (as asteroids did) but the color images are not at the same location, giving a rainbow and un-sharpness. The white font remains sharp, it just looks un-sharp on the photo EDIT: Having no croma output connected to the s-video jack, looks the same as leaving "color in" away from the UAV EDIT2: Removing luma, yields an unstable picture with no content. That makes sense, as this removes the sync as well.^^ EDIT3: Does any of your customers have a PAL machine? Could that be the issue?

Ok. I have another idea: I remove the "color in" wire. If it does no difference to what I experience, I know that that's the problem. Then I recheck all lines concerned with "color in" and recheck the base, and the solder work to the base in which the board sits. EDIT: Removing "color in" results in a very sharp image, but black and white without colors (makes sense =) ) EDIT 2: Actually it's AMAZINGLY sharp! It's affected by your board for sure, composite wouldn't be able to do this.

I just checked and tried, and then removed and re-did all screw connections. They are all nice and firm. However I found something new: the color that will taint the whole screen is random: sometime it's red, sometime it's green, I just power on and off the system and the color swaps eventually. EDIT: I a week from now I will have a ESR meter. Do you suggest checking any particular capacitor?

The problems are not very reproducible. When inserting Bug Hunter I had the white font on black ground correctly but everything color was not sharp and rain bow like. The same in asteroids. The non game inserted green ready screen was washed, with a wide horizontal white bar crawling down slowly. the image got brighter over time. Then I inserted Bug Hunter again and there was no picture. I thought I fried my s-video input with too much signal level, as I also tried the mentioned direct connection with the hosiden jack. Other machines ran s-video fine though (dvd player and sms). I re-tried, Bug Hunter had still no picture, and the ready screen turned red. Asteroids is red now too. @ Bryan: May I connect the s-video jack directly to the UAV board? Do I have to do something with C18?

Hello I have issues with the board. I have the Plug-In version for 800XL models. I have a PAL B verson of the micro computer. I don't know whether I did it right, so before I describe my problems I want to show you what I did. Can somebody tell me whether this is right? - I connect the front side of the resistor at color to the color in on the UAV - Then I interrupted the diodes at L9 and L7. I soldered a wire at the point the diodes were and screwed them into Composite and Luma of the UAV - As can be seen I connected ground to the chassis of the RF generator. I saw others removing it. Is that mandatory? - I connected Chroma output of the UAV to what I think is pin 5 - I saw others mentioning the + 5VDC line at the capacitor right next to the cartridge slot (C18). I did nothing with it, as it wasn't stated what to do with it. Did I make something incomplete or wrong? Can anybody please comment on what I did? @ Bryan: If you read this: For quick testing, may I solder a s-video socket directly to wires going to the screw terminals on the UAV board? (Luma, Chroma, Gnd) Or does the 800XL PCB some signal adjustment and leveling necessary to be done before connection to a TV?

Cool. Would you sell me a copy?

Well, that possible... However I use a NTSC ActionMax and all my other games (which run) also use NTSC video format... The CRTs and PVM are PAL though. But never had compatibility issues. Is Snowman's Land still for sale? I would love to have a copy =)