Boojakascha

... i am disappointed it still fails to work for me... all other games do work... However I still would totally love to get a hold of your new game. Bubba was lovely made, great artwork and great music. I think I will enjoy your new game no matter what.

Are you already taking orders? I am afraid I missed it... I have found out many problem sources in my chain. I will try Bubba today steamed from a digital file to a hdmi to av converter and then to a crt. I am confident that it will work this time^^ Another question: there was a WOW-esque version of the Bubba cover. Why did you scraped it? it looked great^^

No, it hasn't it's a real light gun and works the same way as the Radica Menacer. Similar guns with Sensorbar were made by SuperHappyFunFun for Jakks Pacific. Sensor Bar meaning a stupid plain IR light source as with the Wii.

Do you have any particular information on this piece? Is it similar to the Huntin2 and Huntin3 systems? Are the in-game graphics similar?

Hello I am looking for the lovely Huntin' plug n play light guns which were part of the Play TV series. Does anybody sell one? I am having part 3 sent, so I just need part 1 and part 2. With kind regards Ben

Wow, you are right, in 2017 people lost the ability to print PCBs... the few companies worldwide that still do it charge 1 Billion per piece. The animal they made the FRA4 of got extincted...

I am interested. Please send me a payment invoice if you do another run.

I would definitely be willing to help trying out stuff. My biggest disadvantage: I yet have to buy a 3do. Other than that I am in. I have the proper tools, can solder SMD and can print PCBs (can have them printed^^). I even could implement small changes to the board files as long as they are saved in an “Eagle” compatible form. Otherwise wouldn’t be a problem too, as I could redraw the PCB based on the Gerber files. I think it would take at least one month for me to get ready. Is that ok, or am I too slow/late?

Thanks a lot the_crayon_king! I am very intrigued. Please keep us informed.

Hello The connection on the video out socket gets loose, so I think of putting a normal hosiden s-video plug into the chassis. Because there is not plenty of space I think of removing the RF modulator. However I am not sure as it is in this particular case as easy as in other micro computers as this one is HUGE. It is three times as big as the ones on ZX Spectrums and the like. Is it really solely a RF modulator, which I am allowed to remove, or does this thing more than that? The alternative would be to the remove the video out socket and put a new in. I did that with my Atari STE. But it was cumbersome...

I am sorry to revive an old topic but the Radica Menacer is superb and just gets too less love. It is definitely worth getting tracked down. I use mine on a Multi Mega (needs slight rewiring).

Hello I am using an Atari STE 520 with a HxC device called the "USB floppy drive emulator" in revision D made by Lotharek. This is the version which lacks jumper switches, but lets you select the device ID in software. Using this device as a internal floppy drive works acceptable. However I run into problems when I try to use it as an external FDD with a cable made by this guide: http://www.atari-forum.com/viewtopic.php?t=26656 Sadly the Wiki entry which is mentioned in this guide is broken. All internal jumpers inside my STE are on their default (http://info-coach.fr/atari/hardware/interfaces.php) so pin 5 of the 14 pin connector would try to reach a FDD with ID 1 (rather than 0). The problem is that it won't work for me... The control LED of the HxC device for floppy access just lights up if I set the HxC to DS2 (all normal) or DS1 (with twisted cable). With those configuration I can for example open the floppy folder of "orbital destroyer". The internal FDD does sounds when doing so. If I then start the game the internal FDD continues to make sound, but the external one isn't used. The problem is the same if I cut the cable of (Atari STE-) pin 5 having it floating (Atari STE pin 6 still connected). However cutting 6 while having 5 still connected doesn't work. Does someone of you operate a Atari STE 520 with a Lotharek USB floppy drive emulator as external FDD? Is this possible, or is there a funky bug? Has anybody an idea what I am doing wrong? PS: Of Orbital Destroyer I have the actual 3.5 inch and I am going to put it to SPS tonight =) With kind regards Ben

I would like to order one unit for a 800XL

It's me again digging out old stuff concerning the support of the game "Strike Wolf" I actually found the needed Mapper! =) It's on GitHub at https://github.com/TASVideos/BizHawk/blob/master/BizHawk.Emulation.Cores/Consoles/Nintendo/NES/Boards/Mapper036.cs That might help. And concerning light gun support for other cores than NES: You said you would love to use the Zapper as much code is already present. Personally I think that wouldn't work. But I did a Sega Light Phaser to NES adapter. So it behaves like a Zapper (aka your code can reach it as if it was a zapper) but it reads with better tech. and much less noise. I have the scheme and a "video of proof" on YouTube.

I am done testing. It has nothing to do with it. But thanks a lot for the suggestion =)

I was in "two controller ports mode" all the time. The suggestion is good, I will try it right away =).

That's really nice, thanks a lot. No, I had it in port 2. On all games I tried ports 1 and 2 with zappers, plus the back connector with "the gun" (black revolver sold in Japan). On several (but not all) I tried all 5 connectors (4+1). On my Famicom AV I have to plug the zapper into port 2 for all those games.

Now that I knew it should work I retried with Duck Hunt and alike. It really works. It was just bad luck as I tried - 3 in 1 Supergun - Crime Busters - Master Shooter - Strike Wolf all those didn't work! Strike Wolf glitches out completely... "3 in 1 Supergun" and "Master Shooter" work on my Famicom AV. So I think they should also work on the Analogue NT mini... "Crime Busters" and "Strike Wolf" has mapper problems with the Everdrive, so I didn't came very far trying those on original hardware.. I think "Crime Busters" and "Strike Wolf" would be really worthwhile being fixed, as those are great games.

Yes... And with an Everdrive it works on those ones which support the mappers... My analogue is a real bummer so far... I just bought it for light gun games and I can't use it as I want so far... Kevtris, speaking of mappers: Strike Wolf seems to glitch out :-(

Kevtris, is it possible that you dropped light gun support, when attempting to play the NES/Famicom as core instead of from the main menu? Would it be possible to fix that?

you can delete me from the list, in the meantime I made my own master copy. But thank you nevertheless =)

No I am afraid it won't! In the 8 Bit era are two kinds of guns: - Light Pen type: XG-1, Light Phaser, Defender, Magnum etc. - Zapper type: Zapper, Gun, Hyperblaster, Plus X Terminator Laser, Gunstick etc. Guns in one class can't be adapted to work on the other class, as the work fundamentally different. There are games supporting both classes though such as Duck Hunt home brew on MSX. Zapper type guns have no clue at all where they are shooting at, just whether they hit. Thats why msx, Gunstick Games and Famicom have those annoying white squares when shooting. Both systems in question need a pen.

Hello Kevtris I am 2 week late as I was busy. You were thinking about how to add coin support for VS systems: You don't have to! Coin is mapped to the microphone input on NES systems. So it already works on your system, just the colors are off (implementing another PPU would fix that). Also a question which is really important to me: Does the jailbreak support Light Guns on SMS or Atari 2600?

Hello I have my final results: On Saturday the missing cable came, giving me the possibility to record my very own video master directly from VHS, transmitted as YPbPr. With the perfect frame rate I was able to find my perfect setup: Light in the room out, distance from TV as with every other light gun system (Zapper, Light Phaser, Gcon, Stunner etc), contrast high, brightness really low (really as suggested in the recommendations on every Action Max VHS) and the distance potentiometer really low(!). Of course now, after swapping the potentiometer with a 100 kohm linear one by CTS (for Fender Amplifiers) especially the distance setting might be a different one for you. I can set it to the minus character of the drawn scale to get the best results. Thats useful as I don't have to mark the spot in order to find it again. With those settings I get easily 20+ points (usually about 25) at the "shooting practice" parts of the cassettes. This is my benchmark to set everything up when I take the system out for some game play. I thank you guys very much for sharing your experience, being patient and kind and being so much of a help. Alone it would have been cumbersome.

It seems now you are as far as me^^ I will keep the thread updated as soon as I got my cables.