Crystallas

Lube the connector. Dielectric mineral oil(which should be any mineral oil that doesn't have certain plant based oil additives) would be my first try, but I could be steering you into a bad habit. YMMV. Never had the issue as all of the ribbons fit for me when maintaining the telephones.

http://lifehacker.com/build-fake-batteries-to-run-electronics-on-ac-power-541144160 Not sure if you could do a lm317 like here or a 7805 1A variant, but a 7806 would naturally do the job, just be mindful of the heat, use some kind of thermal solution, even the most basic heatsink on active power components. Heck, you could integrate that into your fake battery design.

Just some things to consider. Did you do the -5v delete on the memory, if so did you bypass? Are the traces on the VDP good? If so, is it passing current(in spec), if not, there is your answer.

haha, well good deal

I know people that worked at Ultra. It's not far from where I live. One of them is also trying to acquire the brand and some IPs with a group of friends that worked there so they can revive projects they worked on. I appreciate CollectorVision and what you guys do, I just hope buying up brands for the hell of it doesn't become your deal. The CollectorVision Holdings Corp. Ugh, doesn't have a nice ring to it. They weren't *just* a publisher and a workaround for Konami like most people think.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Huge-Lot-Of-Official-OEM-Colecovision-Hand-Controller-Parts-/162087810653?hash=item25bd2fb65d:g:wVMAAOSwie5XTMP4 Such a disturbing image.

Atari didn't program the port. A vector game on a vector display(the original arcade) is considerably different than a raster game. For Atari to develop the port and publish it, they could have, sure. But they were already bleeding money at that time and someone beat them to the punch. Missed opportunity.

For a system that sold around 2million units, there seems to be quite a few variations and revisions. I had a REV M board at one point, and a B,C,D, J... Then yes, you have CBS and Canadian models. Really, when we get down to it, some systems that we own may have only had a 4digit run(aside from obvious ones like prototypes and review units) before something was changed. My first coleco, brand new in the early 80s, had some kind of woodgrain sticker. Still to this date, I've heard about 20 different theories on this and used to think people peeled it off if I saw one without the faux wood. The funny thing is, most CV enthusiasts have this experience with odd revisions in something from coleco, whether it be something on an accessory or the console itself. But once you get into the foam box variations...........lol. I personally don't think there are only two. I just don't have the slightest clue as to how many.

Did Opcode have a limit? Personally, I have no issue with reseller practices. At most, it can be annoying, but it also helps a small company like Opcode sell bigger batches and do other things that give life to the system. Dude could buy 200 for all I care, that's his risk to take.

My 1292 is a 12V ~0.6A, if that helps. I don't know if the rebrands like yours are the same, but good luck. Cool find either way.

The SAC uses a significantly better joystick mechanism, but as you see, it's a unique feel for the fire buttons. I notice more hand fatigue personally, not to say the original controller is particularly good for eliminating fatigue It feels very different and was made for Super Action games. Which IIRC, were included seven titles from the original run. If you collect+want to play any of the Super Action titles, the Super Action Controller is virtually unavoidable.

These are produced from heavy metal deposits extracted from Nolan Bushnell's joints, producing a signal superior to displayport 1.4. And here's another from the same vendor named wtf_suckyid, but these are only for lots of two. Don't know where they extracted these materials from. http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-TV-adapters-for-Atari-2600-Game-system-Cable-RF-Switchbox-antenna-adapter/131377649594?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D38530%26meid%3Dc699e57d01ea4850ad1ac6a1c6f821ed%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D130908071528

I lived in Hawaii for a few years. That high humidity and salty air corrodes contact surfaces in ways that need real buffing power and not a degrease. The midwest weather has it's own tricks on electronics that also benefit from an occasional polish in the right places. While I much prefer Weimans, I would use brasso in the 70s to clean contacts and that gear still works today, just be smart about it and use it when other methods fail. Do we need a good write-up on label removal for screw access? CV carts are tricky, I give you that, but not that bad if you know what you're doing. I'm new to the site, not new to the game.

Yep, definitely a CV cart. If Alcohol doesn't work Weimans will, or brasso. Alcohol cleans up gunk, polish knocks off that surface corrosion.

Well my Frogger 2 TD is a tan label, always has been. The 2600 Frogger 2 is a gray label. Parker Bros have been screwy with carts, but you might be trying to play a VCS game on a CV.

Cleaned stock switches are not always enough. You have to lube them up. All the dirt inside the CV that came unraveled when you banged it around while taking it apart(and then reassembling). It all got sucked back into that damn switch like a vacuum. Sometimes it's enough dirt to interfere, sometimes you wont notice it again for years.

Tan label, not gray right? Oh yeah, you said it played sound. Without opening it and inspecting the PCB, it's going to be a guessing game. You could brasso/weiman polish the fingers too. Just clean it off real good before you dump that crud into your CV cart slot.

About five years ago I had this PDP playstation 3 Versus controller and the microcontroller fried. The switches were still good, The thumbstick used a floating axis on top of 4 2-input microswitches, similar to how the CV controller uses a floating axis on top of 4 2-input contacts. I had a cracked CV controller with chips and bits missing. So I thought, HAY, what the hell. It took me about an hour to do and I wasn't going for pretty points. I was more curious if it would work. Not sure if a newbie like me can post a link. But here's what the sacrificial PDP controller looks like. -> https://c1.q-assets.com/images/products/p/zfw/zfw-106_1z.jpg And here is what I wound up with. As ugly and poorly planned as this whole deal was, it works perfectly(almost, the thumbstick is a little off center, but you would never notice it when gaming) and has become my main CV and Atari EM1 controller. Sorry for the bad pictures. My camera is as old as my gaming preferences.