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ajacocks

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Posts posted by ajacocks

  1. Posted

    6 hours ago, Aaron Spinks said:

    Did you print this face down or vertically?  I tried face down last night and the top was not glossy like yours came out.  

    Aaron,

     

    I printed it face-down, on a textured PEI build surface.

     

    - Alex

  2. Posted

    Amusingly, I don't actually have a 5200, so I can't say if it would fit, or not. I built these controllers as a gift for a friend.

     

    If anyone has a spare functional 5200 that they would be willing to part with, I'd be happy to develop a mounting solution.

     

    - Alex

  3. Posted

    I'm fairly new to the ST, but I picked up 3 STs, in a lot, recently. I got a 520stfm, a 520stm, and a 520st. I didn't get any monitors, or video cables, with them, though. Given that situation, the first thing that I did was to make up a DIN-13 to composite video + audio cable. The quality of output I got from that was acceptable (but not great) at low res, and terrible at medium res.

     

    Looking to improve my output, I bought a an NEW v2.0 Atari ST DIN13 to VGA Adaptor Low-Medium/High Switchable with Audio Out and, after reading that my Extron RGB-HDMI 300a was capable of going beyond the spec of 30 kHz, I tried it out. I think that the results speak for themselves.

     

    You can see some jailbars, particularly in high res, but if I take a bit of time to adjust the phase, those should go away. These images are the defaults, with zero tuning.

     

    - Alex

     

     

    IMG_0453.JPEG

    IMG_0454.JPEG

    IMG_0455.JPEG

    IMG_0450.JPEG

    • Like 1

  10. Posted

    Out of curiosity, do folks prefer the left-side thumb stick layout? If so, I can mirror this to that layout, and share that, too.

     

    I might also make the change that @amiman99 suggested, and extend the retaining tabs around most of the edges of the shell.

     

    - Alex

    • Like 1

  13. Posted · Edited by ajacocks
    Insert correct image

    Here is an updated version, showing all the changes:

    Fusion 360 - 5200 SuperController

     

    I didn't re-model your number button caps or the start/pause/restart buttons, yet. They work fine, as is, and I haven't gotten to it. I did adjust the sizes of the cutouts a bit, and realigned the fire buttons, for the right-side thumbtack layout. I also changed the specified screws for some self-drilling plastic screws.

     

    Here are some renders, and a photo, as well.

     

    - Alex

     

    Case_2021-Feb-12_04-28-08AM-000_CustomizedView15924632130.png

    Case_2021-Feb-12_04-29-08AM-000_CustomizedView15924632130.thumb.png.c358bd74ce391645c547b9807a2f8695.png

    IMG_0380.jpeg

     

    • Like 4
    • Thanks 1

  17. Posted · Edited by ajacocks
    Add clarification on button alignment

    Thanks for your excellent work, amiman99. I printed it, and it came out very nicely, using supports for the rounded edges.

     

    There is an issue with the button layout, though, using the updated rev 0.9 PCB, in at least the right-side thumbstick layout. The fire buttons don't line up with the holes, with the holes being offset to the left and above the actual buttons:

     

    p44-content.icloud.com:443&x=1&a=CAog3XC

     

    You can see the square white button caps, in the bottom right corners of the holes. Those are the tactile button caps that are listed in the BoM.

     

    I'll attempt to fix this, and remodel the case in Fusion 360. I'll share the results, of course. Are you OK with me posting the final files on GitHub, PrusaPrinters and Thingiverse? I always license GPLv3, so the results would be fully open source. I'll also publish the F360 source and .step files, for others to use.

     

    While I'm at it, the BoM needs a bit of correction, in that it is short one tactile switch, and doesn't include the recommended Sparkfun large tactile buttons.

     

    Thanks!
    - Alex

  22. Posted

    I recently acquired a fairly nice 1200XL, that seems to work fully, except that the keyboard is 100% nonfunctional. Having read plenty about the 1200XL, I was expecting either a damaged keyboard cable or major Mylar failure. Imagine my surprise when I discovered that 100% of the keys work, when I remove the actual keys and actuate the Mylar with my fingers!

     

    Looking at the bottom of the keys, it appears that pressure alone causes the contact to happen, since pressing the pads with a non-conductive object still results in a key press being registered.

     

    So, it seems that my keys are not physically making contact with the Mylar. I’m including a picture of the bottom of the keyboard, in case anyone sees something obviously wrong, but I’m somewhat confused.

     

    Any suggestions would be welcome. I’m pretty much an Atari 8 bit noob, so please forgive any obvious errors.

     

    Thanks!

    - Alex

    638F9D8B-6C8C-4369-BE66-8B2BC402F866.jpeg

    03B4F8A7-87C9-4A55-B55B-21252638074D.jpeg

  24. Posted

    1 hour ago, DrVenkman said:

    This is the first of @mytek‘s bespoke Atari A8-based machines which don’t incorporate one of Byan’s UAV boards for video, instead designing the video circuitry from scratch.

     

    At least Y/c output through my usual C1702 monitor is completely on par with any other Atari machine. 
     

     

    38A591FF-85C7-4D79-A153-47F88EC6513D.jpeg

    9859CAC1-0D38-43FD-A6F0-D31F41593437.jpeg

    694740A5-78D6-48B3-B897-FB32DD5FBA49.jpeg

    79EBBBE0-50AC-4CEE-8CAF-61D82EE75C7F.jpeg

    B5A12AC6-7F89-443B-890F-134FABEF6DD4.jpeg

    Looks fantastic! I’m really excited for this.

     

    - Alex

    • Like 1
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