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About Sugarland

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  • Birthday 01/01/1970

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  1. Yes test the voltage coming off the PSU. Should be close to 5v. Don't use the 'ingot' power supply. If you don't have a voltage meter just get a USB power adapter cord from The Brewing Academy. Also reseating all the chips can help and deoxit will remove corrosion. Photos of the motherboard and PSU will help.
  2. What about TNT Amusements? They are near Philly. Their YouTube channel is very active with arcade machine restorations and they do repair/restore monitors.
  3. There was a post here about a keyboard that was smashed and the PCB was nearly broken in two. It was fixed by soldering wires to both sides and reinforcing the PCB... I also recommend gluing the corner back on and soldering some wires. Key is to apply solder to any area where you removed the solder mask to avoid accelerated corrosion where the mask is removed.
  4. I was so excited about ultra speed in sparta dos that a few times I attempted to move all of my games/disks over to it. However I found it was not compatible with enough games to make the effort viable. Many would just do nothing when loading. =( I think it was version 3.2 (purchased in '85 so it was whatever was available at that time).
  5. The alien is not in yet. Game looks amazing tho. True to the original, which is best.
  6. Did you make sure the 800 works 100% without the ATR? Connect it to a regular Atari disk drive and an 850 and try to print through that if you have one.
  7. Did he still own the unique/prototype Atari hardware at his passing? I would guess he had many, many thousands of dollars of value in all of it. If his daughter inherited the collection she could sell it...??? Also a college education these days often (but not always) ends up wasted and unused in adult life as people's life ambitions change. No idea what she is studying. The real world doesn't have fifty million gender studies or french literature job openings.
  8. Would be happy to play them, sure please!! So you are responsible for Antic going belly up?
  9. I had very good results from the console5 kit. Quality caps as far as I could tell. Still have one kit to install.
  10. God bless him. He's in a better place. Sorry to see him go so young and full of enthusiasm. Thank you Curt!
  11. Yes the mylar is probably failing. There is a resistor mod you can do that might help for a while but perhaps a better fix is a new mylar. The Brewing Academy has them for $15. Not a 100% guarantee fix but 95% chance. If you have a desoldering gun you can socket the two keyboard decoder chips on the motherboard and swap them as a test. Same with swapping POKEY with a known working but the keyboard mylar is the easiest and most likely what is the problem.
  12. First have you tried swapping GTIA and ANTIC to your 5200 to see if they work there?
  13. It's also missing the LEFT CART - RIGHT CART labels. Very cool find! Does the lower label under the serial # have a date code? How is that read? "G 142 AW211423-16 2/10 L40 P"
  14. 1. Not as far as I know. 3. Yes the late model garage door types. They have a PCB (called the analog board) visible above the drive mechanism when looking into the door. The other 810 with a narrow slit disk slot (also called the 810T Analog), are all late models (Tandon mech) are all good except there is a plastic pivot pin that according to Best Elec break 100% of the time. They sell a replacement pin. The 810T for some reason is considered less desirable than a rev C analog MPI mech (garage door type). I can say with personal experience that the MPI drives are more satisfying to insert and remove disks. Strongly recommend you read the Atari 8bit FAQ on the 810's. The Best page linked above has this text:
  15. Could the Sophia have damaged the GTIA? Putting it in the other 800XL damaged the second one, maybe?
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