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About juansolo

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  • Birthday 05/01/1972

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  1. So @Zap1982 sent his Sears over for us to have a broddle at and here's what we found out and what we did. Tuning it in being an NTSC console on a PAL TV was not easy, Cleggy managed it once, had to go manual and got a very bad B&W image. Which to be fair was more than I was expecting. Wasn't ever able to get it back though. Condition wasn't great, though to be fair we've seen worse. Zap did a nice job of cleaning it up, we also swapped the caps and regulator on it, and reflowed some suspect joints. We also cleaned out the WD-40 from the switches with some IPA and used some contact cleaner as that'll last a lot longer. First thing after that was to see what we could get out of it simply. So we bodged in a s-video mod just to try it. The results weren't half bad and after a bit of fettling became really rather good. We've got jailbars but that turns out to be some digital interference that you either get or you don't depending on the console (there's a 12 page thread on that somewhere but I've lost the link to it) as it is, now we've got it all dialed in, they're not bad. Certainly it seemed to work with all the sets we have to hand and the quality is pretty damned good otherwise we've recommended to him to try this out on his set and see how he gets on. It's just so dramatically cheaper to do. Had the Sears been a minter I'd have probably pushed him to RGB just for the ultimate, but the jump in quality I'm not sure is worth the huge jump in cost to him. This is the mod we did. I've re-jigged the vero vs the one we did for the actual install to make it smaller so the one attached isn't verified as is, but I don't see any reason it wouldn't work if you want to give it a go. We've done the install to have both S-Video and Composite out, selectable using a re-purposed NTSC band switch. The stereo 3.5mm jack carries both audio and composite. Not the greatest pics of it running, the colours are way better than this in the flesh, the camera just wasn't playing ball. Just gonna run it for a day or so to be comfortable that everything is cool then send it back.
  2. Good enough that I got rid of my Playstation (space is an issue). I think it's just multi-disc games you might have an issue with. Everything else tends to be ok.
  3. Yep I currently have a PS2 slim with both a chip (to play imports) and FMB (I've got my PSX games on a USB stick). I used to run a PS2 TEST with a HDD, but sold that a while back. Been meaning to pick up a fat for a while now to drop a HDD back into to finally move my collection from disk to HDD. I think it's the amount I've got that's been putting me off until now
  4. It does indeed. That's what drove me to change because they wouldn't run from disk.
  5. I've got a Chinese GD-EMU and it works fine (though can take quite a bit of effort to get to that state vs the Mode). The software for building the card was a bit iffy when you got over a certain size or you hit some problematic images. Because of this I used to run multiple cards. However this works much better: https://github.com/sonik-br/GDMENUCardManager and I now have everything working properly on a 200GB SD. Also try different versions/regions of SOA and RE:CV, I've found ones that work on my machine. Mode I find annoying. Not only the cost, but the portability of it is inconvenient. Yes it can work in multiple consoles, but you need to dismantle them to move it. The GD-EMU might take some effort, but it's cheap as chips and once it's done, it's done and it works. As far as I'm aware the Fenrir is in the works to connect to currently non-compatible Saturns (my bizarro Asian one included), I'm holding out for that.
  6. I was lucky in that I never sold my DC so I had a load of games that had become really quite expensive to get now, and I swapped the BIOS so I could play imports as most of the fighting games were way, way cheaper from Japan. That said, I recently bit the bullet and pulled the optical drive and put a Chinese knock-off GD-EMU in there. Mainly just for convenience as there were few games left that I wanted that were silly money. Personally I wouldn't go back, it's just so damned easy and the amount of shelfspace I'm reclaiming by doing this (or something similar) to all my old systems is lovely. I was already at the stage whereby all my movies I've had to put into CaseLogic folders and bin the boxes, all my CDs are now on a server and are in multiple boxes in a cupboard. My games were becoming an issue also until I purged all my Nintendo games. Looking to do the same with my PS2 collection next which is by far the biggest. As you say the costs of the conversion becomes a little irrelevant if you've got a decent collection and are prepared to part with it.
  7. For digital distribution, for something as small scale as AA, just put the ROMs up for sale on the store as US and allow payment by PayPal and let it take care of the currency conversion and what have you. Again, bought plenty of software this way from other countries. I'm sure when you're talking millions of bucks going through your store you'd be looking at doing it with localised stores, but small scale digital apps and games all seem to be done this way.
  8. Yep I've built a GBS Control and am currently taking the component out from an OG Xbox and outputting it as VGA to a CRT monitor. But it can also take RGB and the results are shockingly good.
  9. Yep, that's a PAL machine alright so it'll have the shared clock problem creating the vast majority of the interference. You could potentially get rid of most of the problem with a clock (4.433619Mhz CMOS oscillator) with a 100nF cap across the power pins, pulling 5v and ground from whereever on the board then pulling R74 from the 7800 and running the clock out to the upper most pad. Pretty easy to do and might make a big difference.
  10. We've never had one to play with so we just don't know. Given how different the PAL machine is to the NTSC, we've no idea what they did in the French 7800. The signal is Luma + Chroma so it must be converted to RGB at some point. Whether it has the same problems as the PAL machine for the bit in the middle we just don't know. We tried to grab a French machine a while back for buttons but sadly it was pulled from sale.
  11. I'd mod your PAL 6 switch with the RGB mod (it's what I run) it's the best you can get and it'll run everything via a Harmony cart. As you've got a PVM an NTSC 7800 with a UAV mod is likely the path of least resistance for you to get a decent picture as most PVMs are properly multi-standard. The BVMs you have to be careful with it's likely just a PAL S-Video/Composite board. You can put an NTSC one in there, but the pic on the PVM will be just fine. To be honest there's little to no difference in speed between PAL and NTSC machines, only odd games have an issue. Also if you want full screen, I've re-scaled my Underscan button on my PVMs to make most 7800 stuff fit correctly from a PAL 7800, I just hit that to get insta-stretch (you can do the same with the 16:9 button if you're not using it), I mention it on the thread I linked with some pic examples (page 4 post 90). Given how hard an NTSC 7800 is to get here, it's an option, if it wasn't for the complete shit picture out of a PAL 7800 without some jiggery pokery. Given the kit you've got though, if you want us to mod your PAL 7800, we could certainly do that.
  12. PAL 2600 is a good call, and stick a UAV in it. Easy enough to do and will get good results. The 7800 is the one that's a bit of a pain in the butt for us.
  13. Yes with some large caveats. From a picture output point of view, the NTSC 7800 is vastly superior to the PAL 7800. The PAL machine has some horrible design compromises. The UAV is the path of least resistance on the NTSC 7800 and will get you great results. The PAL machine has some options out there but there are some fundamental flaws that make them all a bit pants as nothing really addresses them. We tried and have a solution that for us gets the best output you can from a PAL 7800, but it's a fairly involved mod. Hence I've left it fully DIY as if you're comfortable making your own board, you should be comfortable doing the mod... It's here anyhow: We start getting into it on page 2 and there's a doc on page 6 at the bottom that's the result of all our broddling and contains all the info on what we did and why.
  14. Sadly no one has done this yet. Saint an Tim Worthington have both mentioned they're working on one, but as of today, there isn't a 7800 RGB mod.
  15. If you go with the eTim RGB mod (which isn't trivial so make sure you're up to it), you end up with as near as damnit a multi-region machine as you can switch palettes with it on a button. So getting an NTSC console is a little moot there, just grab a PAL six switch (the easiest to mod). An NTSC 7800 with an S-Video mod will have to go into a TV/monitor that is properly multi-standard. A lot of old CRTs aren't. Many will happily play 60Hz RGB signals from other consoles, but might not handle NTSC over S-Video/Composite. If you're running a PVM you'll likely be ok, a BVM will have to have the right board in it to work. It all gets complicated. You could run it into something like an OSSC or RetroTink and that might get you something useable. But mainly the consideration will be what you're plugging into as to what will be the best option for you. It's unlikely you'll get anything out of the RF on either console on a PAL TV.
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