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About juansolo

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  • Birthday 05/01/1972

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  1. Thought we'd do a bit of due dilligence when I was over today. So with R&V the problem manifests when the pad is plugged into the left hand port. Plugged into the right hand port on it's own, it goes away. Likewise if you plug two controllers in, both work fine. So that's exactly the symptoms we expected from other's who've had the problem. Just to be absolutely sure we swapped out the associated 3 transistors and checked the associated resistors. All were fine. So a TIA issue, I don't have an NTSC TIA so it's not something I can just swap out, so I'll be bodging the fix for this. What I'm going to do is put in the switching for the internal AtariVox (which will be happening on our next order when Al does the next cycle of new stuff). When I'm running the AVX I'll be running single player so it'll also switch in the resistors to make the left port play ball. When I'm playing two player, I have to switch the AVX off anyhow, but it'll also switch out the resistors. Nice and easy fix that is only two resistors more than what was already going into the machine regardless.
  2. Other side of the pond pespective here (where the 7800 was pretty unheard of), I can honestly say I've never seen a 7800 title outside eBay. The good news is that other than a couple of titles they're pretty reasonably priced. I originally bought most things I wanted CIB/NOS and didn't pay a horrific amount for them. I sold those and am now re-buying a handful as bare carts with less of a regard to their condition and you can pick most things up surprisingly cheap. I just had one of those moments where I realised that the first thing I did with any game was break the seal, take it out of the box and chuck the box on a shelf never to be touched again. As with anything else retro, patience is the key. Set up watch lists on eBay. I've even bought consoles with game bundles to get games when they've worked out better after I've sold the bits I didn't want. I'm doing something similar with my 2600 games right now. I managed to get a handful super cheap early on, but am now just watching eBay and will slowly chew through them.
  3. Very useful stuff, cheers!
  4. I've got a later AVX so I shouldn't need to de-PIC it thankfully. But if it addresses the problem, it kills two birds with one stone for me. For the time being I'll make a ghost controller dongle for the P2 socket until I can get another AVX and fit it internally. Then when I'm single player and it's on, things should be ok, and when two player, I should also be ok. In the meantime if I end up with spare TIA at some point, I'll swap it out. I didn't really see the fringing at all on the 2600 side. It's an exellent picture all-round other than that also. Really surprised by just how well our relatively simple mod worked on it!
  5. Hit my first bit of oddness with the NTSC machine, seems it has the sticky fire button problem noticable on Rikki and Vikki resulting in your player auto picking up boxes in single player with only one gamepad plugged in. Now this can be gotten around by plugging in a second controller. Which is fine, but I only have two controllers (a gamepad and a modified 7800 Zipstik) for both my machines so I'll probably end up making a dongle for the 2nd port. This does however potentialy scupper my internal Atarivox plans. I'll have to find out what lines the AVX actually uses and hope they're not the ones we need to add resistors to to negate this problem (if anyone knows this'd be VERY helpful as my two are buried inside machines). If they are, I can potentially negate the issue when running the AVX when it's switched in, and it'll just automatically negate it when it's switched out and I'm running two player with a second controller. It's a potential work around that depends on the planets aligning a little. That said the AVX itself might make the problem go away. I guess I'll be taking my 2600 apart and extracting that to test that. First, of course, we're gonna swap some parts and see if we can't fix the problem. A job for Wednesday when I'm next over. Now you can see why I made it super easy to dismantle As for the colour fringing issue, this is interesting. Looks like a UAV equipped NTSC 7800 does this also (check out Dungeon Stalker): Dungeon Stalker and Frenzy were the most apparent ones to us, but you can see it on certain colours in the palette picture. That'll be interesting because that looks awfully similar to my AJM equipped machine!
  6. I make no appologies for the tarty piccs that are about to occur. All can be embiggend with much clickage. It's complete, for now, and I'm really happy with the results. The picture on it is better than my PAL machine that has a UAV with chroma switching, and there's just our AJM in the NTSC machine. Looking forward to seeing what changes the UAV then UAV plus switching might make. It's not the neatest install, but as it's only temporary and this things is likely to go through several iterations before I'm done with it, it'll do for now. I wouldn't normally do the outputs like this. Normally there'd be a case mounted 3.5mm stereo jack carrying both composite and audio, with the S-Video also just bolted into the case. As I'm planning to be taking this apart a bit, I thought I'd make that as easy as possible. There's no composite out and there is a board mounted phono carrying audio where the channel switch used to be. You need to drill some holes in your PCB to do this and cut two traces. Also I've grounded and anchored the S-Video jack using twisted solid core wire to the RF modulator mounting holes, this ended up being surprisingly rigid and the socket doesn't move. It's still bolted through the case when it's in, but that's super easy as it all just lines up when it's dropped in there. It's a bit of a faff to do, but in the long run it'll save me loads of time. the new socketry So that'll be it for a while, when the UAV lands the experiment will contine. But for now, we're done.
  7. That was part of the reason I wanted to do this in the first place is to see what our mod does vs the UAV, vs the UAV plus chroma switching. Our mod is fairly basic but it's a lot better than the simple composite mods out there. The UAV does some really nice things and generally speaking does a better job at most things, but it's still blending the chroma so it'll be interesting if the switching makes it even better. We can't compare to RF because we don't have anything with an NTSC tuner in it sadly. But generally speaking, from the many different consoles we've modded, RF rarely looks good next to a decent composite mod. I would say though that the NTSC 7800 is vastly better out of the box than the PAL one in terms of picture quality.
  8. UAV purchased for £30.79 delivered. We'll see how much it's total is once HMRC and the Post Office are done with it!
  9. Given the backlog, and the amount of work involved in the boxes/manuals/decals, I wouldn't expect Galaxian for some time. As with everything homebrew Atari, patience is a virtue I personally order bulk (combined with a friend to help with postage/duty), usually once a year and generally I'll have to wait a few months before I see them. It's not a problem. This is all very small scale stuff done by a very small group of people for what amounts to little to no real money if you take into account the sheer amount of work required.
  10. Also if you're doing this it's worth swapping out the ferrite ring for a diode as @-^CrossBow^- suggested:
  11. Piccage from Mr Clegg (@marauder666) As with all the pics on this thread, much zoomage is available if you click then click to open in new window, then click again to zoom in.
  12. Bugger, posted the wrong PSU, that's the 5V, you want a 9V one for the 7800. We use a Mean Well 9V DC Power Supply, Mfr. Part No. GS15A-2P1J (https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/desktop-power-supplies/7212092/?relevancy-data). It's early morning here... Cleggy (who PM'd me) is obviously more awake than I am right now! Edited original post.
  13. It's not neccessary to use the supplied 110V PSU with most machines with an external power brick. Just find out the power requirements of the machine and find something that decent that meets that. In some instances you can't get around the external brick or it has an internal supply. For those you'd need a step down transformer. Either 110V for US or 100V for Japan. Usually you can get away with using a 110V step down for Japan, but ultimately you are overvolting the power so if you can source a good quality 100V one, in those instances it'd be better. Don't use cheap Chinese eBay stuff if you're doing that, get something decent.
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