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About juansolo

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  • Birthday 05/01/1972

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  1. It stretches or becomes harder as it gets older also. It's not difficult to change the belt and the replacements cost buttons. It's a very common problem.
  2. @Jobf did get back in touch with us and may be sending his over for us to have a go at. However I don't think he gets on the internet much and we haven't heard back from him in a while. I'll give you a ping in a week or so if we've heard nothing back from him.
  3. Luma circuit: Finally there's a 100uf across the power rails that's not on any of the schematics.
  4. These should be good for people doing setup. Colour is about spot on here for the 7800. Setting the luma is only required with the all-in-one mod and is easiest on the 2600 if you have a Harmony cart. Running the ChipHead demo, you should be able to see the grey bits on the picture below. If you can't, it's too low. You're trying to get it so that's visible and the bright white of the copyright on 7800 Asteroids isn't overblown. Colour on the 2600 is a real PITA because it just doesn't photograph well with my camera. The first arena on Combat when the game is started should be green, with a sandy yellow border. The left tank light blue and the right pink. On mine it's a case of tweaking the pot to get that with as little interference as possible (I can't completely get rid of it, but it is at the stage where you wouldn't really see it if you didn't know it was there). In the doc it shows the position of the trimmers for the 3 consoles we've set up as they're all in the same area so it could provide a good starting point. Added more to the setup bit in the doc. I am trying to keep it all together in there so it's a one stop doc... AntiJackModDoc1.4.pdf
  5. Found a couple of bits. Essentially the complete mod is in four parts: Clock, Luma, Chroma and Sound. The clock is simple. It has 4 pins, only 3 of them do anything. You've +5v, GND and clock out. That's it. Put a 100nf cap accross the power pins. Job done. Likewise the sound, each line comes in through an 8K2 resistor. They then go together and go out through a 1Uf cap (it'd be very different on an NTSC machine, really easy here however). Chroma is all switched by this IC (+5v is on pin16, that's not part of the scribblings, same as the buffer): The out from this goes through a simple buffer: They're all the bits in your mod. The all-in-one adds the Luma parts. They'll follow as I can't find the scribblings for that so Cleggy is re-drawing them up.
  6. Go for it dude. If you're thinking about PCB layout, the cap across the oscillator power wants to be as close to it as possible to the oscillator, and that whole section wants to be away from any other signal lines. Likewise you want to keep your chroma circuit away from the luma one as much as possible. All just trying to minimise interference. I've probably still got all the paper bits of schematic kicking around somewhere. Might want to go SMD for the Oscillator, I suspect they're easier to get your hands on.
  7. Latest doc update. More clarity around adding the mod board to a UAV install. AntiJackModDoc1.4.pdf
  8. Many thanks @Gaztee Super fast delivery and awesome game. Cheers dude.
  9. I got mine when it first came out. No problems at all to the UK. Things can just take a while to get here. Expect a couple of weeks, if not more with the current situation. They tend to get here eventually. For what it's worth I just had something through from the US and it was just less than two weeks. That said I'm still waiting something from Japan that's coming on to three weeks now... I start to panic after a month.
  10. I used Elecrow for years and never had any bother. But only for prototype runs (batches of 10 or 5) of small boards (2 layer, 10x10 or less). For that sort of thing I've never had any complaints and they've always been very reasonable. For bigger or more complex stuff you're better off elsewhere.
  11. I bought a Jaguar back in the day when the stores were selling them off for buttons. Back then there were only a handful of games really worth playing and after a while you move on, so I sold up. When I got on the retro kick I purely wanted a Jaguar to play Tempest 2000 again. Now already prices had started to get a bit silly, though not quite the insanity they are now. Thankfully i have a friend who'd done what I had back in the day but never sold up. Also he went a bit to town and just bought out the shop's stock of consoles and CD drives. I'm embarrased to say what he sold me essentially a NOS jaguar for... Let's just say he as good as gave it to me, even knowing full well what they were selling for, for which I am ludicrously greatful. I picked up a copy of Tempest 2000 as a loose cart for £15, and I was a happy chappy. The thing is it just isn't worth what they sell for now to play a handful of good games. However the homebrew scene and Saint's cart do start to justify that expense.
  12. The Jaguar version of Tempest 2000 has spinner support and a classic mode.
  13. It's just become a bit more of a pain. It is still possible to ship reasonably to the US, it just requires being smart about how you package it and getting things as light as possible. Things are far, far worse coming into the UK as a rule...
  14. I'm poised, but waiting a couple of 2600 titles to appear before I order. Need to order big to offset the duty.
  15. Are these available anywhere in the UK yet?
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