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CZroe

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CZroe last won the day on October 3 2018

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About CZroe

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    Dragonstomper
  • Birthday 09/01/1980

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    Newnan, GA, USA
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    Nintendo, electronics, and PC hardware

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  1. Trying to think of something similarly pie-in-the-sky sooo... what if it's not a straight FPGA console and we get something more in line with the original Analogue Nt? Like, transplant N64 CPU and/or RCP to a board engineered by MarshallH? I've seen the dude design a PCI-X card for transplanting those chips. He and Kev are acquainted. Transplanting is not at all like moving two 40-pin DIPs and you'd get something barely different from a PIF-modded console with UltraHDMI, so it's obviously not going to happen. Still, I feel it's more likely this way than an FPGA N64.
  2. Wow! Way to think outside the box, but the economics of high-end CRT manufacturing only make sense with economies of scale... economies of scale that you simply can't have with a niche CRT product after CRTs themselves are no longer mainstream.
  3. Bumping this old thread because it still comes up on Google when you search for this kind of thing. Anyway, you can use a North American TurboGrafx-16 with a Japanese dock (IFU-30 / IFU-30A "briefcase" Interface Unit) and drive (CDR-30 / CDR-30A CD-ROM² drive) with very minimal effort, though there are a few caveats. No, it will not fit directly, but that's not as big a deal as it seems because, well, neither would the Japanese-only SuperGrafx (SGX) console and yet that can be used officially. How? With the NEC RAU-30 "ROM Adapter." Yes, it's an additional expense but I got one for under $10 earlier this year and just got a boxed one for under $56 shipped. It's an additional expense, sure, but not to bad if you ignore the overpriced ones from the people who thing SGX-anything is valuable... not this because the later Super CD-ROM² unit dilutes demand (fits directly). It requires a bit of trimming to fit a US model TurboGrafx-16 but not much more than the PC Engine Ten No Koe 2 that everyone keeps using for external RGB/component/AV mods. The pins all line up but the connector inside the RAU-30 has some little wings you need to trim off. Even then, it will not quite reach unless you trim the fingers that slot on the back of the console. I did mine super-clean with only a few minutes of effort... just snips and a file. You don't even need to touch a soldering iron. The last caveat is that you cannot get AV from the IFU-30 briefcase Interface Unit. The original SGX had built-in AV so the RAU-30 expects you to get it from there, but the TG16 only has RF. RF works fine but looks like crap. If you haven't modded it for composite AV or better already then you still can... or, better yet, mod the RAU-30 with a DIN-5 or DIN-8 multi-out (Duo-style, often upgraded to DIN-8 with RGB). So, yes, you can do this to save money. It works: Now, the Turbo Everdrive 2.x is WAY cheaper than a North American Super System Card 3.0 (HUNDRED$) but you might prefer a Japanese version with an adapter. I recently got the SuperSysCard for under $25 but the adapters aren't too cheap. You get a lot more functionality from the TurboED2.x so I feel most people would prefer that.
  4. Yamatoku has been selling a ton of them for decent prices recently. Here's one that sold for $85 shipped: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F401803873724 There's a boxed one up for sale right now but watch out for that $70 shipping: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F401892493837 Most recent boxed one sold for $60+ shipping: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F312758801052 They do combine shipping but the discount is less than you might think. It seems to be an effort to minimize the stated value of the item so people don't have to pay import taxes. They will break large purchase up into multiple shipments to keep each under a certain value threshold though they can't publicly admit that this is what they are doing. Contrary to popular belief, the USPS can hold a commercial/merchandise package and demand import taxes if it is valuable enough though I don't know where they draw that line (probably a few hundred at least). Some of the Yamatoku bundles have a Super System Card, some have a lesser system card, some have no system card. Same with the drive, but they sell loose drives and you can get a shipping discount. Most drives and IFUs are sold as "defective" or "junk" because they are yellowed or missing a power cable or something but only the drives ever seem to have issues in my experience. Both of my IFUs and the RAU-30 were sold as junk. Two of my four CD-ROM² drives came from them and one of them actually works when I let it warm up and use a higher voltage PSU (12V) with the IFU (likely just capacitors). If you are lucky it will just need lubrication or a replacement gear (cheap). If you are unlucky, well, full refurbishment including adjustment and capacitors is $45 from that guy on eBay and I'm sure he's charging less if you can find him elsewhere. The TurboEverdrive can work as a Super System Card if you'd rather put the money toward that but here's a real one for $23: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F273992536082 By combining four items I ended up paying about $12.75ea for shipping but that was a MUCH more reasonable shipping discount than I usually get from those guys. Still, only recent example I have.
  5. Have a TuboGrafx-16 and want to play those sweet Duo CD/Super CD-ROM² titles on the cheap? Build a poor-man's TurboDuo! Last I checked, the cheapest Turbo-CD docks are usually $150-$180. Back in 2017 I managed to trade a $68 TurboEverdrive from Black Friday 2016 for one and ordered another on Black Friday that year, which is why I was concerned with finding a cheaper drive option that looked more like the Turbo-CD. For those not concerned with that, I suggest skipping the Turbo-CD dock all together and going with a Japanese IFU-30 + Japanese CD-ROM² drive. I got my IFU for less than $12 plus combined shipping. As shown, you won't be able to connect a TG16 without also obtaining and modifying an RAU-30 but it's cheap and you don't even have to take it apart. The modification is just cutting some plastic back so it fits on the TG and doesn't block the power port. I just bought a second one boxed on eBay so I can pair this one with one of my extra TG16 consoles (getting ready to trade off or sell). Paid less than $10 and combined shipping with the IFU above (among other things). This is the thing that was meant to let the SuperGrafx connect to an IFU. The all-in-one Super CD-ROM² attachment replaced that whole setup and fits SGX, displacing the RAU-30+IFU-30 in Japan which is why these are still cheap despite the extreme price of anything else SGX-related. A TG-compatible Super System Card is rare and expensive while a Japanese card plus import adapter/mod costs more than a TurboEverdrive, so just get a TED and use the patched Super System Card BIOS from Elmer. You'll be glad you did for its other functions. I don't know if you can get it for $68 on Black Friday now that they are sold through Amazon but someone's going to have it for close to $80 (Stone Age Gamer? Whoever the other Euro distributor was?). Alternatively, you can build Osman Celimli/@tailchao's Super System Card 3.0-compatible "CD Stupid Card 4.0," if you're handy with that sort of thing. I plan to do a few since I have too many Turbo-CD docks (3)/IFUs (2) and I'm not about to pair them up with TurboEDs when I trade/sell them off. Osman actually has software that lets CD Stupid Card 4.0 work as a TurboEverdrive by loading games from CD-R instead of SD card but he hasn't put it up for download on his site. The BOM isn't much. I think the total is about $20-$25 per card but I understand this DIY electronics project isn't an option for most people who just want a poor-man's TurboDuo. Though the price was hovering around $60-80 for most of the year, there are multiple junk CD-ROM² drives on eBay for around $50 and it costs WAY less to refurb one of those than a Turbo-CD drive. Even a "broken" Turbo-CD drive is usually $200+. Heck, I keep seeing one vendor bundle them with IFUs for $50 + shipping. Another eBay vendor offers drive refurbishing service for $45. DO IT! I just want people to know that their TG16 can be upgraded almost as easily as a PC Engine so there is no reason to replace it with a whole Duo or PCE/CoreGrafx setup. If you're careful and wait for the good deals then you can actually upgrade it for pretty cheap. Oh yeah, there is one major drawback compared to a real TurboDuo or Turbo-CD setup: it's RF-only without a mod, but it looks like that's really easy to correct inside the RAU-30. Looks like it would work with Voultar's IFURGB amp that fits directly onto the internal pins from the EXT port. From there, you just make a hole to panel-mount a connector. You don't even need to do audio since that still works fine from the IFU (system audio and CD audio). Voultar's amp only gives you RGB but there are also many composite amp designs that you can use. Hope this helps someone with a disused TG16 who was interested in playing Super CD-rom²/Duo CD titles.
  6. I saw a Twitter discussion yesterday where Jose Cruz drastically reduced the jailbars by lifting the graphics chip to install a shield of grounded copper tape underneath. Here's his original post about it: Yeah, no one is going to do this for the Genesis 2 in a Genesis 1 shell. It genuinely "plagues" many of the desirable High Definition Graphics models. Edit: It looks like the RetroRGB link got left out of my last post and edits are locked so I'll have to add it here
  7. You seem to be hung up on the word "plagues" because you thought we were saying it affects the majority of all Genesis consoles. We weren't. It "plagues" Genesis from a purist's perspective specifically because a large percentage of the otherwise most-desireable models have the issue. It comes up every time Genesis RGB is discussed. Heck, it just got mentioned AGAIN in the latest RetroRGB video that was just released:
  8. RetroRGB says 3-7 frames, average 5.
  9. Doesn't matter: I was talking to everyone, including you. I made three points that negate the comparison you were making. Interesting that you think this kind of response somehow dismisses me and let's you weasel out of admitting that you never had a valid comparison. Why did you bother responding at all if you couldn't refute any of those three points? This kind of response is basically futile since everyone can see that you were reduced to dismissive name-calling without anything to address the criticisms. You basically confirm that you were backed into a corner and still weren't willing to admit it. It's not flattering. You aren't saving-face. You're only digging your hole deeper. Think about that before your next response.
  10. For Analogue products, the Analogue DAC enables true 240p without pillarboxing. If it added support for other stuff then it would likely have options for handling aspect ratios, but it doesn't absolutely have to. Stuff like UltraHDMI do have stretched modes which would render properly once sent to a 4:3 CRT, a bit like anamorphic DVD. Heck, UltraHDMI'S 5x 1200p mode is always 1600x1200, which makes it really difficult to find a proper digital monitor with the same native resolution (I use Dell 2007FP)
  11. Yes, but it's usually the other way around: anything with digital processing exacerbates it due to horizontal pixel clock syncronization... even CRTs, like my XBR910.
  12. In my experience this is often because of dissimilar metals reacting where they make electrical and physical contact. It's why they used to say to pair tin with tin and gold with gold when upgrading RAM back in the '90s. If the pins consistently rest on the exact same part of the contacts with the new position then it will likely develop their too... unless something like DeOxit or dielectric grease is separating the two. The other major use for dielectric grease is to put on automotive battery terminals so that the electrolyte fumes don't react with and corrode the battery terminals. My understanding is that it's the same sort of thing in effect with dissimilar conductive metals... like a bit of unintended environmental electroplating contaminating the contact points.
  13. Three differences:VAT is a tax, not a "shipping fee," thus your comparison is invalid. Analogue's products are the OP's FPGA game consoles and accessories, thus the discussion is more on-topic. This issue isn't limited to one region (EU Economic Zone), thus it is applicable to a broader range of customers who might be interested in this product. Same reasons it was appropriate to mention my "foreign transaction fee" problem here despite it being significantly less than your fee (around $13, IIRC). Again, sucks for you and other EU people who were caught unaware, but you seem to be doing your best to make us resent ever showing sympathy to your situation.
  14. The switches sound like they are for bank-switching which I presume means the user can switch between a bank flashed with the original functionality or go back to PseudoSaturn at the flip of a switch. I've had some GameStop or EB-branded import adapter for decades. Inside it's obviously a Datel product with reduced functionality: parallel port removed and no cheat functions in the FW. It has a low-capacity EEPROM to match the limited FW but I can probably flash it back to an AR using a larger flash chip.
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