manterola

I'll try to install tnfs in a pogoplug device. There is still devices of this defunct service on sale, like 2 for $15 if someone is interested. You basically can load arch Linux or debian if I remember correctly and attach any USB drive.

What about scrolling the current selection? That way you will have no problem with extra long filenames.

I agree, Syscheck is not only a diagnostic tool, but also an external (PBI/ECI based) memory expansion (I guess 512KB ) which does not need any modification to the Atari computer. I've used it for running Stunt Car Racing in a stock 800XL. Still you won't be able to run Atari blast! or Space Harrier which need 1MB (unless you get a cartridge emulation solution like ultimate cart or AVG).

Thanks! that worked. I expanded the spiffs partition (new offset: 0x250000 new size: 0x1B0000) by shrinking the app0 previous partition (size from 0x340000 to 0x240000) Now I was able to print to emulated Epson printer.

Once I recorded the "noise" of the drive and the with audacity I measured difference in time b/w two peaks (1/freq) and then I also used the spectrum to see that. At that time I was trying to make a floppy mech to run at 300rpm instead of 360rpm. So I am not sure about the precision is enough for adjusting, let's say, the 1050 to 288rpm.

I did what you suggested and now it fits in the SPIFFS. Thanks! I have a question, though: I think it is possible to make the SPIFFS "partition" larger, and still fit the "firmware" in the WROOM memory. Or am I wrong?

Ultimate 1MB I did it in a 600XL. Tight fit, but doable. For 64KB it is super easy and super cheap (2 TMS 4464 (or equivalent) and 3 pieces of wire) AFAIK this expansion to 64kb is needed prior to Ultimate 1MB Regarding Jurgen (http://www.van-radecke.de) 600XL expansion I think it is great, I have not use it yet, but it also replaces a bunch of logic chips (74LSxyz) and the delay line. so it is super easy and convenient if you want something simple to install and/or when the delay line of the 600XL is dead.

If you get the READY prompt is because you got to BASIC. You need to power up pressing Option key to disable BASIC. If you do that you will get to the DOS menu. there you can load any XEX (Atari executable (but not bootable)) with the option L. Another option, it to copy a whole disk image (ATR) as you describe: mount game ATR in the atarimaxp program and put a blank disk in the real disk drive and select Duplicate Disk. That should work, maybe you can try with another ATR (once you got it right we can help you to figure out why pitfall atr is not working).

Same here with NEC FD3238T Slim Floppy and Samsung SFD-321. Both HD drives, but working correctly @ 720KB

Let me add my experience here. The HyperXF firmware actually work slower for me when use an OS with High Speed (HS) modification. My impression is that the computer (with HS OS) ask for change of speed, then the floppy drive answered and they agree to HS change, and then after 1 or 2 sectors at HS transfer rate the floppy drive (maybe the mech is at fault) cannot keep up with the bit rate. Then it switch back to normal speed, and then again goes to HS for 1 sector or more or to request HS again, etc. In RespeQt log you can see a lot of requests for HS capabilities and some errors as well. Let me try this: It sounds something like pi pi piiiiii piiiiii burp pi pi pi pi piiii burp pi pi pi pi burp pi pi pi piiiiii piiiii burp... So basically it is a mess, nothing regular. I need to do more experiments to figure out what the problem is, like for example, changing the mech for a modern one (slim) and see if can go better, or maybe it is something related with the skew, which is not appropriate for HS, IDK. But for now , my 5.25" drive works much faster (in seconds) when loading a program in HS.

I have done the trim for the mylar twice and it works. however, once I trimmed it too much and was a big mistake.. I needed to get a new mylar.. even worst: the mylar was actually ok, it was the keyboard edge connector that had problem.. So the lesson is: check the keyboard connector is doing right by using your tester in continuity mode and check in every step if everything is right... it has to be a point in which you find the problem: for example: mylar to edge connector of the mylar, then connect the mylar and check continuity with the pins of the keyboard connector, then if everything is right test with the pins of the cd4051 chip, then move to the shoulders of the cd4051 chips themselves, etc. I believe that is the only way to really know what is going on.

I have a couple of Panasonic 360KB mechs that I'd love to use to build xf-551 clones. I tested them with my existing original xf-551 board and they work great. The problem is finding a suitable and not that expensive 5.25" case...but someday I hope I'll do this project.

Since there are all keys failing I'd bet both 4051s are not working. Those are easy and cheap to replace.

Yep, it happened to me. It still works but there no space to store wifi password, tnfs server addresses, etc. I guess by eliminating some non essential files from the spiffs system image it should work again.

Another option (only if like playing with soldering iron) is to build a xf551 clone. The minimum you need is a 360KB floppy drive you can get for less than $40 if you wait enough, the Dropcheck Xf551 board (or sf551 board) and all the components to build the board (and a power supply and one SIO cable). It is a very interesting project. Even to make it more fun and save some money on shipping you can order almost everything times two, and build both a 5.25" clone and a 3.5" clone. In general, the more complicated (for me) part is to get a proper case for the board and mechanisms (you can use a 1050 case as some members of this forum have done before). I am not sure you will save some money, but it is certainly a nice project if you consider this a hobby. Just my $0.02

That would be great

BTW, what is the current of state regarding mailing AvgCarts to the world? I would like to know if it can be sent to USA and how much$$$? I already have one and I am thinking in another one for a friend which isn't convinced (yet) to get back to this hobby.

In my case the problem was fixed by changing the stepper motor. I used the stepper motor of a broken mitsumi d503 drive, and everything started to work.

I am in a search for a cheap but decent solution to the problem of connecting an 800XL to a modern TV. I tried the same (at least from outside) converter that mytek is using and the delay is about half second or more. I tried to play space invaders and it feels like the base has inertia. So then I tried another similar design and it was different from outside, the same blue screen, "no signal" characters and delay than the other one. Now I want to try the ones in the $35 range. Have you experience delay with the Orei or udigital recommended in this thread? Thanks Mauricio

The love Chileans show for Montezuma is something beyond measure. Somehow, it just triggers joy memories (me included). Probably the most popular game for Atari there. If ask someone of our generation, do you remember the 800XL? he/she would respond, "yes, do you remember Montezuma? I used to play it, for hours". Actually when you announced the modified version of Montezuma I thought you would get a lackluster reception, you know like doing doodles on a Picasso, I was wrong. Great job TIX.

I got one 8bitdo, it arrived this evening. I opened and did the mod to supply power to pin 5, it works great. I paired with Wii controller and then with one Nintendo switch joycon. It worked with Moon Patrol redux with the Two button mod. So it really works well.

ah.. OK you were talking from that point of view. you are totally right, it has to be used connected to the computer itself or to another device after the SIO splitter

It depends on how much juice to put into the SIO splitter... I don't think the consumption by the SIO splitter is relatively important. I don't see why fujinet wouldn't work with SIO Splitter. The only "issue" I see is that it will keep powered when you power off your computer.

The problem is that epson protocol esc/p is practically unsupported. There some code already written to convert esc/p protocol in a big image by interpreting the protocol and drawing dot by dot or sometimes using a predetermined font. For starters, Fujinet code is available, I haven't checked, but I guess is similar to code I've seen in which is a giant switch/case statement and some status variables in which you have to cover every single option and case of the protocol. I start writting my own code, I wanted to add it to respeqt, but I got discoraged after seeing how great programmers here in the group, implemented the same in a limited hardware as esp32. So maybe that code can be used as a starting point to make it happen in respeqt. Like 2 year ago or so, in a PC I was able to capture the printer information send by Atari thru the SIO to a file. Then I found some DOS and linux tools that interpret the esc/p protocol and transform it to an image or pdf. Check it out Better than nothing... atariout2.PDF

It also happened to me, but i followed the alternative upgrade procedure from flashjazzcat video and i worked perfectly.