manterola

Thanks! I did not realized the latest updated schematics where valid only for WROVER version of ESP32. I am sorry for the confusion.

Are changes to the assigned io pins to sio (DIn , DOut, etc.)permanent? I would like to know, because I will need to modify my homemade interface... I think the changes are not yet in the firmware since I can still run the latest version. right?

The pins used are din dout cmd and gnd. Pins1 and 6 shorted Edit : my bad, the pins used are din dout cmd and mtrctrl. Mathy, as usual, you are right. Me better 🤐

The famous diode would probably be needed for that, it can be placed in the junction with sio cable, for example. However, in most cases (not all) you will disconnect the whole sio daisy chain to make use of the avgcart sio connector, unless you got a long cable to connect it to the back of your disk drive or something.

My cart has red pcb but not connector, so I need the cable plus the connector to solder in the pcb. OK it actually has a connector, but it close to the buttons, so I guess that one is for other purposes. So basically I can solder the connector in any direction or side.

Is it the plato.atr image there? I tried the plato inside comm.atr which I assume is the r: version (with altirra r: handler) I was able to connect at 9600bps. I typed atdtirata.online:8005 to get connected. It was great, super fast. The plato.atr in atari-apps server got me to the first black screen with white characters but I couldn't pass that... I was assuming that th platoterm in atari-apps sets everything up for the n: device to connect to irata.online plato server. Anyway, don't worry about it since I was just curious about the current state of FujiNet. Regards!

I received mine on Wednesday. Washington, DC.

My son showed me this song, and I inmediately thought Pokey song! So I was about to suggest it.

Hi All, I tried the comm.atr image in FujiNet.online. The problem was that I need no space between the atdt command and the address. Now it is working. Thanks

BTW, yesterday I tried the latest version and for the first time I connected it to a computer with Hias modified OSROM for high speed, and it was amazing. I guess I got divisor 0 speed. Then I tried that "COMM" disk image and tried icet and plato , but i could not connect to anything.. Is there something I need to do previously to get connected (using the modem emulation).. I did atdt telnetserver:port I got the "connecting" but then it timeout. Thank you for the great device!

For some weird reason I have Molex cables that are very hard to extract but not that hard to insert, and others Molex that are OK (both directions). Then in one extreme I got a Chelco branded one which it is hard to deal with just like the Hard Molex, and on top of that they used a very thick multiconductor cable. The other extreme are the ones we all love: the JAE ones (that BE sells at $15) which use a great flexible multiconductor and the connector itself is easy to insert and extract. My XC11 and XM301 modem came with those connector, and I tried to use those connector only when dealing with the XF551.

Yep... a lot of us... others have used esp-modem. They all work. Even the default firmware that comes with the ESP8266. But that's kind of old news, since Thom is working in something very nice and special for Atari. Fujinet. AtariGeezer is also working in another project which is more centered in the Modem part, like a 850 compatible solution, AFAIK.

Hi Nezgar, This is really cool, I am really interested, an planning to get more eproms to try all those OSs. Only problem I saw when I tried to implement an OS switcher was that I got overwhelmed by the number of options regarding rotary switches (with encoding, numbers of poles, right angle, etc). It could be any switch, but I think rotary switches are more elegant , like os 1 ,2 ,3 or 4 instead of dealing with all the combinations. So the question is really to anyone: which rotary switch is good to connect directly to those 4 points (or maybe 3 points since gnd is repeated), and just work? Hopefully something small that can be glued and maybe reuse the rca modulator hole, of some vent hole, or maybe be accessed easily with a screwdriver after opening the cartridge doors, or any other idea that does NOT require a big mod to the Atari computer case.

Also check the connection in pin 17 of GTIA.. There should a large voltage there... that voltage is created by the circuit starting in pin 3 if Sally(6502). Once I had problems with colors because of that circuit. Check the schematics (p48): http://www.atarimania.com/documents/Atari 800XL Service manual.pdf

Check this out BTW, sorry to tell you but there is a box currently crossing the pond with hardware marvels from tf_hh. You might need to wait until the next omnibus-order from Germany or get in contact with someone locally that can help you discovering the problem.

Lotharek used to sell a memory upgrade based on simm which incorporated a long shaped pcb to hold the simm. It was very interesting way of getting the mess of cables for the data and address lines out of the way.

I am so excited about this release that I really think that all options work. None has the metallic sound of the original, but it really doesn't matter. Thanks again for this amazing game.

Two questions: Why irata.online fails to load, it times out. My local tnfs server also fails, but different it kind of overflows... But fujinet.online works... Second, how I can change the wifi used? I remember it was a hot key of something while booting.. I want to see if the wifi used have some effect on this problem. Maybe is just my crappy access point. I've been having these problems for weeks, even before updating the firmware with platformio, from the times of anduino ide Check this out:

This one is mine, no led or anything fancy. Din dout and cmd only, for now

We all may agree at this point that a good and concise guide on how to get your Atari/monitor combination adjusted is necessary (for both NTSC and PAL). I have read hundreds of posts and I am still not sure what I am doing (the part with the colorbars in SALT is easy and clear) but the rest is not clear. I have downloaded and run all those little tool for producing colors and have tried to get a good result, and I am fine, I guess with the results, but also a bit "neurotic". For example, while measing with the HUE i can get the blue in the star raiders , but then I discovered that the blue is not correct when dealing with PAL system... or the red in the sound self test (and Joust) is more like pink in PAL, and I guess that's OK... but what about the flags program? it should be OK in PAL? Is it correct to have the B row that green or the C row with ot without pink... etc.

_ ( (( \ =\ __\_ `-\ (____))( \---- (____)) _ (____)) (____))____/----

Type II keyboard? show us the control and O keys... IF it is I must say that is my favorite keyboard. The problem is that kind of keyboard are great and functioning most of time. Instead the more common Stackpole (Type iv), is not great and sometimes need a new mylar. It would be great to have a solution for those. I mean, I don't mind messing with a type iv (destroying it) to get a switches based keyboard. However, destroying a type ii is another thing

What about scrolling? like demos with scrolling text, or montezuma revenge in which the character moves fast. In many upscalers we can notice a not so fluid scrolling and problems dealing with the interlacing (or lack of it).. For example, the character of Montezuma looks ok for a lot of frames but every 1 second or so you notice a little hipcup which makes the movement weird and the character itself with horizontal lines... Maybe you can upload a video I am also in a search for a good budget upscaler.

I did not read that post you mentioned that. The only thing i can think of, is to keep checking the other sockets. Another one, is if you have acces to a logic probe, use that to go thru the pins of all major chips. Finally, and this is ideal case, is to get an syscheck. I've been in your position before, in which a working system stop working after some unrelated modification. I wasted weeks, testing, getting new chips, changing eproms, , to find out that sockets were the problem, or in other cases it was memory or the delay line. I wish I would have a syscheck at that time, but I considered too expensive for dealing with a single problem. Now, I am going to get one as soon as I have the opportunity, since I plan to keep playing and messing around with Atari circuits and modifications. Not sure if that is your case. Anyway, I am sure you will eventually find the problem even if you are going "blind", with the help of the forum and by going thru the testing and schematics very thoroughly.

yes, that is a good idea. At the same time, since you might have removed the chips, inspect the sockets very carefully, check if one of the contacts looks a bit misaligned or something. Or if any foot of the atari chips are bent.