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manterola

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Posts posted by manterola


  1.  

    Sounds cool, but unfamiliar with that you said there. Can you expound just a little bit more?

    I was pointing out that the colors are still not right. In the first post of this thread you asked about color. I am still getting colors close to the Altirra windows running on Wine you posted in the first post. The picture is a Dell 2007fp all color controls in the middle, using svideo from a NTSC 600XL with UAV. I got very similar greeninsh and blueish colors (for moon terrain and close montains) from my 65XE NTSC via SVideo. In general, I am getting colors very similar to Altirra ones.


  2.  

    Nothing but the 830, but it looks clean and nothing rattles around. Smaller in person than I thought it would be. No PS.

     

    I just want to get an 810 and then stick my 800 with an 810, 850 and 830 and a nice old Bell Phone on a spare desk and then look at them every once in a while.

    I can't even use it as I have VOIP and got rid of my copper phone lines many years ago.

     

    Maybe find that 40 col thermal printer too someday.

    Hi, Just in case you dont have a PS for the 830 yet. I have found a cheap alternative. It is a match for voltage and capacity 24VAC and 4.8VA, not sure about the connector, but it can be changed: search ebay for SPN4027A.

    example:

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-Adapter-Class-2-Transformer-SPN-4027A-Model-no-ICC-2-500-0050-15/152602263559?hash=item2387cdc007:g:FQwAAOSwRXRZT8X6

    • Like 4

  3. I must say I do like the buggy with tank treads shown in that slicked-up YouTube video. It takes a weakness of Ataris PM graphics and turns it into a strength by rendering the double-wide pixels as tank treads. Its my vote for the final sprite look.

    I agree. However, I still think the buggy front is weird. it looks like there are a missing part in the front.

    The colors are not right in my opinion. I already posted the screenshot from a real NTSC 600xl with UAV. If I "unadjust" the color pot I got a very close original colors. But If I do the calibration with the super salt colorbars, I get very similar colors to the ones from Altirra NTSC in which the lunar soil is greenish and the mountains like fluorescent .

    I must say that all this work is amazing. Just yesterday I was checking these common comparison videos for moon patrol in youtube, and the atari 8bit implementation was already great when compared with other computers. Now is even better.


  4.  

    Can't check anything if the flash fails taking the chip with it. Now it won't even erase or reprogram. Just gives me constantly flashing red and blue lights when in the UART mode.

    I had that problem when I received my esp-01. Then I discovered those flashings is a really error messages sent at a weird baud rate:74800 baud. something like:

    ets Jan 8 2013,rst cause:1, boot mode:(3,6)

    load 0x40100000, len 1396, room 16

    tail 4 chksum 0x89 load 0x3ffe8000, len 776, room 4

    tail 4 chksum 0xe8 load 0x3ffe8308, len 540, room 4

     

    If you set the switches in your programming board to programming mode you can see in the terminal (windows terminal program set at 74880 baud) you will see that the module will say that the module esp-01 is in programming mode.

    So, in conclusion, I don't believe the esp-01 is a lost case. Try setting the terminal at 74880, see what the module is telling you. Then try re-writing the module with the originalp firmware, then again with the zimodem, or several times with the zimodem, until you make it back to life.

    I can always try to help if you send me the module. I can try to reproduce what I did with mine by checking the linux machine command line history.


  5. It looks fairly simple to build. I've seen some to coonect to LPT (printer) port for PCs. The Atari ones are connected directly to the D0-D7 lines. This one connected to the joystick looks easier to build. Is the covox player software available compatible with the joystick version? (like the on in the picture from the last post). What are the advantages of the data lines one? (sample rate maybe?).

    I am about to embark in putting together this circuit in a breadboard and connect it to the joysticks... will it work?

    post-49742-0-71870200-1538499105.png

    post-49742-0-00722600-1538499116_thumb.png


  6. Maybe with one pair of quotes only? like: ATW "SSID,PASSWORD"

    Your problems with the menu could be due to translation settings in your terminal program? like parity, or ascii, atascii, ibmpc, vt100 , etc.

    I would use plain ascii, but try changing that to see if the menu accept your selections.


  7. and just w [Return]? I wish I had my Atari around to check,

    Edit: I checked the source code in github and you need to use the first letter, look:

    if(c=='a') // add to phonebook
    {
    currState=ZCFGMENU_NUM;
    showMenu=true;
    }
    else
    if(c=='w') // wifi
    {
    currState=ZCFGMENU_WIMENU;
    showMenu=true;
    }
    else
    if(c=='h') // host
    {
    currState=ZCFGMENU_NEWHOST;
    showMenu=true;
    }
    else
    if(c=='f..... and so on.

  8. Great! so you got it! The zimodem firmware worked for you. I mean at least is booting up.

    Sorry but the new firmware is totally different: different commands, etc. And it also overwrite every previous settings. So, first connect to 2400 baud and then you can start using the menu (at+config) as you did. You can set the wifi and when exit the menu, save the config.

    WRT the baud rate use atb1200 or atb9600. if it work at&w will save it.

    I have never used the atw way of setting the wifi. I just did it with the menu, I know I dont remember the menu that good, since I just use it to add entries to the address book.

    But it was something like press 1 or the number for wifi, then connect to wifi or something like that, then the module will scan for wifi networks, then you select the one you want and then enter the password. something like that. Then the last option is to exit to main menu, then I choose address book, then you put broadway1.lorexddns.net:23 then assign a number ex: 777. And so on, and at the end you exit the main menu and it will ask if you want to save config.

    That's it.

    So you are very close to make it. I am glad that we have confirmation it is (kind of) working for someone else. Sorry that I forget to say that the default baud rate is 2400 after writing the new firmware.

    Edit: I re read you post, maybe I am wrong and there is no numbers for each option, maybe it is just the first letter, like w [Return] for WIFI. Tell me if that works. I don't have access right now to my SIO2Wifi Thing to check.


  9. Okay, did you use Zimodem or WiFi SixFour like what Stefan posted here? http://atariage.com/forums/topic/262518-sio-wifi-modem-with-esp8266/page-4?do=findComment&comment=4057398

    Stefan used espmodem aka wifi sixfour. I have never tried that firmware. I used zimodem. The original zimodem failed to save my settings, wifi and address book, so I have to do the conf after every boot up. That is a documented problem in some esp-01 models. Therefore, I manually made changes in the esp8266 supporting files and sources to fix that (spiffs problems). I also overwrote the petscii translation tables to atascii ones and compiled again. That is the .ino I posted weeks ago. And that is the version I regularly use in my own and only esp-01 module.

    • Like 1

  10. DON'T USE THIS ON THE ESP-01 with the ZiModem, that's what messed mine up...

     

    Edit: The ESP-01 needs the BOOT code stored at 0x00000, I don't think the ZiModem bin has that stored there.

    It did work for me. But it could be that my memories are not correct. I can upload the sources of the Zimodem modified version I used so you all can compile and upload that version directly from Arduino ide.

  11. Manterola,

     

    Can you go into more detail on how you flashed the Zimodem firmware? I've finally got the USB programmer in and I'm trying to figure out how to program the ESP-01 module I have. I have the bin file and I think you said you used a CMD line program?

     

    This is the programmer I am using.

     

     

    I see that the programmer you have has a convenient switch to put it in prog mode. That is cool. I used something called esptool.py it is a python tool I used in ubuntu linux. I don't know how to do it in Windows, but I found this website very useful, it explain how to write the image to the esp-01 without arduino ide.

    http://subethasoftware.com/2018/02/25/how-to-load-zimodem-firmware-to-an-esp8266-without-arduino-ide/

    If you have arduino ide, you might also try with it, configuring the COM port, and I don't know what else to make it work with you new programmer.

    In linux, I used "pip install esptool" (I already had python) and then I put the esp-01 in progr mode, power it up and I used

    sudo esptool.py --baud 115200 --port /dev/ttyUSB0 --before no_reset --after no_reset write_flash --flash_mode qio 0x00000 zimodem.ino.generic.bin

    to write to it.

    you can try other baud rates if 115200 is too fast, this is just the speed in the writing process, not the rate in normal use.

    I am sorry I cannot be of more help. I barely know something about the arduino IDE to say how to configure it and use it.


  12. According to the data sheet for the ESP-01, there are two GPIO pins exposed from the 8266, GPIO0 and GPIO2...those could be wired to a joystick connector.

     

    -Thom

    Yep, I am using gpio2 to turn the led on/off of the atari 1030. The only thing is to be careful since there are also used to put esp-01 in run mode and in programming mode, so gpio2 for example need to be pulled up during booting to make the esp-01 start, after that can be used as input or output.

    Another simpler option is to get a esp12 or adafuit or similar with all the gpios exposed.

    A third, poor man option, is to solder very thin wires to the esp-01 main chip to get additional gpios that are not currently used. There are particularly 2 of them which are located at corners of the IC that are easier to wire. I've seen videos on YouTube of people doing that an adding those gpios to additional header pins.


  13. Well,

     

    US-Sector-Copier 9 is a hack of US-Sector-Copier 4 by E. Reuss (Compyshop). The Black Disk disk/sector editor may look similar to Happy Master, but afaik it was done by Karsten Schmidt (known as Chip Special Service back then, programmer of The Brundles)...

     

    The Nano-DOS Converter by S.Baucke was/is a well-known gamedos here in Germany. Every pirate had it back then and allthough it was programmed 1984 and already widely available in the A8 scene, german Happy Computer magazine released it as a type-in listing in 1986. Alas, the original version is limited to 90k and 130k, loads only *.COM files and does not switch off Basic automatically. There were patch-programs available, so that Basic was always switched off (no need to hold down the Option key, alas, I did not keep them) and also several third-party versions that did 180k (named NDOS-DD or similar, but they were for 180k only and did not work with 90k or 130k anymore, so you had to keep two or more NDOS versions for 90k/130k/180k). Still I prefered this gamedos over Speed-Start-Init. and several others for quite a long time - until MyPicoDOS 4.x became available, which I use more nowadays.

    Sorry still not sure which atr contains all this utils you are talking about.. It looks pretty handy.

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