Stingray

Mindfield your Photoshop work had me laughing out loud. Good for you for not scratching it. You really should put it in a card protector. -S

FWIW, I took that statement as humor. -S

While you've got it apart you can polish up the switches with a little toothpaste on a cloth. I know it sounds silly, but give it a try. It's a very mild abrasive and it will really bring back the shine. Plus your Atari will truly be minty fresh. -S

Too slow. -S

Once you start playing Atari with a real arcade joystick you'll wonder how you ever did without it. I can't belive no one has snapped this up. -S

If you can't find the exact brick that you need those universal switchable ones work fine. Just set it for 9v tip positive. -S

The Ben H mod works great with my composite mod, but not all with my LCD. -S

I prefer 'Square' from Adventure. He rules. -S

I'm working on something along the same lines at the moment, but mine will have a built in LCD and a few custom built controllers. I've run into a bit of a snag though. I can't seem to work out a video mod that works with my Pyramid LCD.

Well I do have this game, but I don't particularly like it. I guess we'll see how well I do after work today. -S

Been playing for hours this morning. 398,400. So close to 400k, yet so far. -S

I did this once and it ripped a hole in the fabric of time. I ended up becoming my own grandfather, but that's another story. -S

At 300k they're going fast non-stop. You have to pretty much stay in the middle of the second row down and be pretty twitchy on the jump button to avoid them. And indeed I saw Todd Rogers and pretty much came to the conclusion that second is the best I can hope for from here on out. -S

I've been looking over the info pertaining to that mod online. I'm just about to head out to Radio Shack to see what kind of damage I can do. -S

Thanks! -S

I haven't had any luck with the mod sited in the AA faq. I may be looking at a different mod than the the one you're talking about though. Do you have a direct link? The CVSp mod is working fine for me on a composite CRT monitor, but not on this LCD. -S

Well I'll never be able to compete in Todd's league, but I did manage to crack 300k. 310,600 -S

I don't know if there's a pre-built board or not. I'd really rather make my own. Building stuff and tinkering is as much fun as playing the games IMO. I'll let you know what I turn up. -S

There are indeed nine wires. My camera isn't up to the job of taking up close shots of small objects. I used my scanner instead, but I didn't manage to get all of the wires in the shot. -S

Objective: Uninfluenced by emotions or personal prejudices. I'm not sure "objective" is the correct word for your article. Everyone is entitled to their own opinion of course. This article is yours. Some of us actually do like to play Pong now and again, and belive it or not, we aren't pretending. -S

Thanks for that. I'll have a crack at it and see if it helps. -S

The case of extension cords arrived last night. Rather than hogging up space here in the marketplace, I've created a new thread in the Hardware forum for those who are interested. http://www.atariage.com/forums/viewtopic.p...855f84a50678100 -S

Rather than hogging up space in the Marketplace forum I decided to continue this discussion here. Relevent posts: Okay, first of all here is what the wire looks like. This is at about 3x magnification: What it seems to be is some kind of nylon thread with copper braided around the outside. I pulled a few of the strands apart to show what it looks like inside. As BJK said if you hit it with a lighter it flames up and the nylon burns out quickly leaving pretty much nothing to work with. Thinking that there would be no way you could solder to this stuff I went ahead and tried it just to illustrate the point. I was very pleasantly suprised to find that soldering to it is very easy if you carefully strip away the insulation being sure not to damage the copper braid around the outside of the nylon - I used a sharp exacto knife instead of a wire stripper. I found that this wire heats up instantly when you touch the soldering iron to it and it sucks up the solder like a sponge. I tinned one wire with no problem (you can see the tinned wire sticking out from the back just to the right of the black wire). I then tinned the green and yellow wires, twisted them together and was able to solder them together just by touching the soldering iron to them. And no you cannot twist this wire together unless you tin it first. The blue crimp connector is really too big for this type of wire, but it was all I had handy so I gave it a shot. I don't think you could crimp directly to this stuff since it comes apart very easily once you remove the insulation. So, once again I tinned the wire. I then folded it over in half to increase crimping area. I crimped to the tinned wire and the connection is solid. I haven't had a chance to try the phone connectors as suggested by Tsukasa, but that also seems like a good way to deal with this type of wire. So all in all this stuff does take more care than regular wire, but it's not too tough to work with if you're careful not to break the copper when you strip off the insulation. For those who are interested here is how the wire colors correspond to the pins, assuming all Sega branded extension cords use the same wire colors: -S

CIB with unscratched card, no way would I ever scratch it off. -S

This is the only LCD I've got. I'll be really dissapointed if I can't make this work, since I bought it specifically for this project. I'm not really keen on buying another one until I can work out what the problem is. -S