doubledown

Please don't misunderstand...as I have already/previously built, Robotron: 2084 controllers...for the 7800/8-bit: and the ColecoVision: ...which also work for the 2600...I didn't need to build a "new" controller for RobotWar: 2684. 😉

Finally a reason for me to build a twin stick controller for a 2600 game: Well done @johnnywc and team. Excited for the full release.

My current fav!

A fellow AA member contacted me about building him a 2-button, 2600 version (Joy2B+ / Genesis compatible), ERGO² controller, so here's that: We opted for an orange iL shaft cover / dust washer, and an orange Sanwa LB-35 ball knob...along with Sanwa OBSF-24 black pushbutton bodies, with orange A.S. Classic Concave Caps...which I feel looks pretty snazzy. iL also makes these shaft covers / dust washers in a few other colors too: In addition to black, red, orange, green, and blue...they are also made in yellow and purple. But at the time of my order, the manufacturer (iL) didn't have them in stock, so I would have had to order their minimum order quantities, of either 50 or 100 of each, versus the (10) of each, that I did order, of the colors that they had in stock. I really want the yellow ones (favorite color of mine, and would looks great for a Pac-man theme), so maybe I'll bite the bullet and get them at some point, who knows. Speaking of colors, here are all of the colors that the Sanwa OBSF-24 pushbuttons and A.S. Classic Concave Caps are available in: The transparent/clear colors are at the top half, and the solid colors are bottom half...all can be mixed and matched, and matching ball knobs are available for all of the solid colors, and sometimes available for the transparent/clear colors.

I wouldn't consider/worry about a 3d printed enclosure, as there are plenty of manufacturer molded ABS enclosures, large enough for a joystick and 3 buttons, in the $10 - $20 range. Depending on the filament used to 3d print something (type/brand/quality), you could be in the same price range to have one printed (vs. purchased)...and then, well it's going to look like it was "3d printed"...and no where near as pretty as a molded enclosure. But beauty is in the eye of the beholder. To my knowledge, there were no contemporary ports of Defender that allowed for an "arcade-accurate" control scheme...obviously, due to most controllers not having enough buttons. But even when enough buttons were present (ColecoVision for example), the ship movement control is still different from the arcade version. On the arcade cabinets, the joystick was a 2-way vertical joystick...controlling your ship's movement Up & Down...only. There was then a "Thrust" button which would propel you forward (in the direction you were facing), and a "Reverse" button, which would flip the direction that you were facing, so that you could fly the other direction. Every contemporary port simply used an 8-way joystick to combine the control of your vertical and horizontal movements. It wasn't until I think the N64 / PS1 era of arcade compilation games, that a home port finally allowed for a proper control scheme...albeit with whatever N64 or PS1 controller you were using. Years ago I built a Defender - Experience Controller for the ColecoVision: ...but since even the ColecoVision didn't use "Trust" and "Reverse" buttons, I installed 2 buttons as "Thrust Left" and "Thrust Right," and a 2-way vertical joystick, as a compromise to accommodate for how the game was programmed...which I have no way to modify. If a controller was built to play @PacManPlus's version of Defender, with a joystick, and 3 buttons, such that: Plugged into the left Joystick Port 8-way Joystick (wired as Joystick) 1 Button - ("Fire" for firing) & Plugged into the right Joystick Port 1 Button ("Fire" for Smart Bomb) 1 Button (Joystick Down for HyperSpace) ...would yield a controller, that in addition to working for this version Defender, it would also work for every 2600 joystick game as well...as it would have a joystick and the necessary 1 button to play almost all of them...plus 2 additional buttons that just wouldn't be used for "normal" 2600 games. All of which could be built into an enclosure as small as 6.75" x 5", like this: ...or as large as 20" x 11.25" (like my Defender - Experience Controller above)...or anything in between. There are plenty of different sizes of manufactured enclosures available: I believe, there is a 3-button Defender hack for the Atari 8-bits, using the full 3-button Joy2b+ wiring spec, which allows for exactly all of this with 1 controller cable plugged into only 1 controller port. But obviously that version would require a controller wired for Joy2b+, where in a 2 controller version, as is being discussed here, can be played with 2 "standard" unmodified joysticks...although you would probably need 2 people playing cooperatively to enjoy it, (or a special controller). But yes anything is possible, and it would be very easy.

You would also need to power a track-ball for use on the Intellivision...as there is no power at the controller ports (those with them), like the Ataris had. I think one of the WICO track-balls...for the Odyssey² or TI-99/4A...or something, had a battery compartment, as the console it was made for, didn't provide power at the controller ports either.

Enjoy it...and I see what you did there with the "baby"...well played sir!

There was the Nyko Classic TrackBall for the PS1...don't know if it would work with Intelilvision Lives! on the PS2 or not.

Doesn't the original 7800 port of Galaga allow for two players?

As I had previously said, 1-button 7800 games, such as Donkey Kong, and Donkey Kong Jr., on the 7800, play just fine with the CX-40 natively.

So just tested...here are the results: Plugging CX-40 directly into 7800 controller port The utility cart test program, sees the CX-40's "Fire" button, as the 7800 Left Fire button...obviously no right fire button possible, as the CX-40 only has one button...but this makes multi-cart menu navigation possible But, when trying to play any 7800 2-button game (I tested Commando and One-On-One) the console sees no button at all...neither the Left or the Right...only joystick movements When Plugging CX-40 into Mega 7800 Controller Adapter, and it in turn into 7800 controller port The utility cart test program, sees the CX-40's "Fire" button, as the 7800 Left Fire button...obviously no right fire button possible, as the CX-40 only has one button (same as without) But now, when trying to play any 7800 2-button game (I tested Command and One-On-One) the console sees the CX-40's "Fire" button, as the 7800 Left Fire button...obviously no right fire button possible, as the CX-40 only has one button So One-On-One can be played with a CX-40 with this setup, you just can't call a time-out. Commando can also kind of be played...you just can't throw grenades. You learn something new every day!

Could be possible. I may have only ever tried a CX40 on 1-button 7800 games (in which case, normally either 7800 button can perform the "1 button's action), and Xevious, which auto detects a 1 button joystick, and shoots and drops bombs simultaneously with the 1 button. I'd have to try it out tonight to see if a CX40's button acts as the 7800's Left button, or the Right button.

Well a CX40 would only have 1 button, which can be used natively on a 7800, to play 1-button 7800 games (not 2 button games, as it doesn't have a 2nd button)...I don't think you would need an adapter for it at all...unless I'm misunderstanding something.

I find Kaboom to be one of the best tests for lag. You don't even need to truly play, just spin the paddle control between rounds and watch the response of your buckets. If you spin the knob one way quickly then stop before they would hit the side of the screen, your buckets should also stop as soon as you stop turning the paddle knob. If they continue to move on screen for a bit a after you've stopped physically turning the knob, then there is some lag.

It is very cool to see new things being developed...or at least prototyped at this phase. I personally have never had any issues with original (assuming functional) CX-40s, I've been using them for more than 40+ years now, and still use one to this day occasionally. I haven't yet had a chance to try out the CX40+...still new in the box...I'm sure I'll open it at some point. I am certain a microswitch variant would be greatly appreciated by those who adore their "clicky" joysticks. So long as the microswitches require a reasonably low operating force, I'm sure it would be a hit, and a big seller.

Nothing new at this point. I still want to modify my PCB design to make the wiring for a 2nd joystick for Total Carnage...easier to wire. And I've got a rapid fire circuit to wire up to one of my PCBs to test at some point...when I get the time. I've got the stuff sitting on the workbench...just have to get the motivation to test it, whilst working around everything else I've got going on.

...except when you leave it somewhere, for too long, and then the battery is dead when you want to play. Then you have a wireless brick, for 2-8 hours while it charges. Then what happens when the battery no longer takes a charge...is the battery available as a replaceable spare part...or is it then just a permanent wireless brick. It's a double-edged sword with wireless...there are pros and cons. If I have to plug a cable into it to charge...then hard pass. If it has a "drop on" dock...then maybe.

Well as you asked for a modern (assuming that meant new, available, manufactured product) controller option, no there isn't. A modern converter/adapter (again, assuming new, available, manufactured product) for a ~30 year old Jag controller, or the rare-ish Famicom/Super Famicom control pads with keypads...also no. Can something be done for any of these scenarios...of course, but nothing you can just find and buy...that I know of. Years and years ago...I made 9 Jaguar to CV controllers, 1 Jaguar Pro to CV SAC controller, and 1 Famicom Network Controller to CV controller, as conversions. But they were all internally hand-wired to work only with the ColecoVision (and compatibles). Like @evg2000 says...some sort of adapter could be built, by someone who has the knowhow, and is willing to make them. But I'm not aware of one available right now anywhere.

I believe the only option for a modern (non-vintage, OEM or 3rd party) ColecoVision controller, is going to be one built by somebody...nothing mass produced by some company...especially if you want full "ColecoVision" compatibility (Joystick, 2 to 4 buttons, & a 12 button keypad). I make several variations, mostly "arcade joystick" types, and there are a few others that make them too...BDRetroMods, RetroGameBoyz...some of theirs as joysticks, some as NES knock-off control pads...some have full keypads, some only offer 1 or 2 keypad buttons. Keypad necessity of course depends on what games you're playing, and if you're playing "infant" level 1 games, or level 3 or 4 games...which are the variations that are more considered to be "arcade" difficulty...for adults. The OEM ADAM controllers are pretty much exactly the same as the ColecoVision hand controllers. With the exception of any ADAM controller found in the wild, may have been used less, previously, than it's ColecoVision counterpart.

That Lock 'N Chase is beautiful...I love its marquee. One of my favorite arcade games that I've never actually played in an arcade...I just have to enjoy it at home: ...c'est la vie! I also saw a Bubbles machine in your pics...that's a wickedly hard game.

Well that's cool if that's true. Knowing that some modern homebrew games are substantially larger than the original 7800 games (144KB max I think, for originals), I wasn't sure if the 2600+ could load/run anything larger than those or not.

I completely understand your thoughts/concerns. I personally, play most of my vintage games on analog, 4:3 CRTs, that don't have HDMI inputs...thus I prefer original/vintage consoles, with analog outputs (also better for game/hardware compatibility too). Meaning something like a 2600+ (with an HDMI output) is of little to no use to me. I'd have to "frankenstein it" to convert it's HDMI output to component video, or similar, for use with my CRTs. But then, I also prefer joysticks to control pads (for Atari/ColecoVision/Intellivision era games), and I could care less about controllers being wireless. We're all unique snowflakes! 😉 Regarding BB as a physical release, and it working on the 2600+, I suppose it may depend on the overall size of the game, as to if the 2600+ could even load it. I'm not sure if it has a maximum file size that it can load into it's memory to play off of...I don't know much about it.

The 7800 Edition - ERGO²...ideally would be wired for 7800 2-button compatibility (as its artwork is complimentary to the 7800 console)...but it could alternately be wired for 2600 2-button compatibility (Joy2b+ / Genesis control pad). Alternately, slightly different artwork could be used for a 2600 Edition - ERGO², 2-button variant (more akin to the 2600 Edition - Ergo¹ artwork, or with the CX-40 joystick surrounding detailing, or woodgrain perhaps)...versus the "simulated silver" of the 7800 edition...but the artwork doesn't make any functional difference obviously. I also made myself a custom themed H.E.R.O. Edition - ERGO² for the 2600, wherein the 2nd button is an additional "Joystick Down" input...for setting dynamite in H.E.R.O. and HERO 2 (and releasing vines in Pitfall, and quickly ducking in Keystone Kapers...and for others)...I just haven't photographed/posted it yet. If you're interested in one, just me a PM and we can discuss further.

I believe his point is that the 7800GD won't work on a 2600+...but I could be wrong. I would personally suggest an original 7800 console...but that's just me.

A few other new/recent 7800 controller builds: Mario Edition - VVG Joystick Controller Luigi Edition - VVG Joystick Controller Details of the builds: ** PacTec (KEU-10LP Black), three-piece, sloped-top (~7°) molded ABS enclosure (approximately 10" wide x 8" deep) ** (1) VVG / iL PSM-30, 8-way microswitch joystick, w/ 30mm Sanwa ball knob (black) ** (2) Ultimarc GoldLeaf pushbuttons (Mario - 1 orange, 1 blue) (Luigi - 1 orange, 1 green) ** MARIO BROS. arcade upright inspired CPO artwork ** 10' Super flexible, custom crimped cable Or for those who fancy something "smaller": 7800 Edition - VVG Ergo² Controller Details of the builds: ** PolyCase (AG-85 Black), three-piece, curved/ergonomic-top molded ABS enclosure (approximately 7.5" wide x 5" deep) ** (1) VVG / iL PSM-30, 8-way microswitch joystick, w/ 1-3/8" textured/matte ball knob (black) ** (2) Sanwa OBSF-24 pushbuttons, w/ A.S. Classic Concave Caps, (orange) ** "Original", albeit 7800-ish inspired, CPO artwork ** 10' Super flexible, custom crimped cable Enjoy!