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doubledown

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Posts posted by doubledown

  1. Posted

    On 5/18/2021 at 7:38 PM, somebooks said:

    these are beautiful! wow!

    Thanks.

    On 5/19/2021 at 12:46 PM, Cynicaster said:

    I love shit like this.  That's some great engineering on that first one; lots of thought clearly went into it.  One of the touted benefits of emulation is the ability to quickly and conveniently remap controls, so it's very cool how you've found an "analog" way of doing the same thing right on a real console. 

     

    I find myself thinking it would be even cooler if it incorporated a pot-based dial for paddle games, but I also acknowledge that "too much complexity" is sometimes a thing.  

     

    Great work!

    The only emulator I ever use is MAME, for arcade games, and even that's a fairly rare instance these days.  I like, and appreciate, real and actual hardware; so a controller like this Switch-O-Matic (or something game specific/dedicated) is the only way I can very easily re-map the inputs.  I will say that the more I play with it, the more games I come up with to change.  Last night I was playing Grand Prix, and I disabled the Joystick's left switch, and re-mapped this input to the 2nd button for push-button brakes...as I was inadvertently hitting them occasionally when using Up & Down to steer.  Then playing Pitfall, I mapped the 2nd button as a redundant Joystick down input.  I kept the Joystick's actual down switch enabled for descending ladders, but I definitely liked just slapping a push-button to let go of the swinging vines.  It's truly a "game-changer"...pun intended.  

     

    Adding the potentiometer for paddle games is easy enough, "wiring-wise"...that just wasn't what I was looking for with this particular controller, as I wanted it joystick only.  I've already got a plan for a little bit larger controller that will include a joystick, a paddle, a driving controller, their necessary buttons, and a few other bits for game configuration, but now I'm also thinking about more of a mid-sized plain-Jane version, with just a joystick and it's button, and a paddle and it's button...I just need to see if I can lay it out comfortably in a 14" x 8.5" enclosure or not.  

  2. Posted

    On 5/15/2021 at 10:59 PM, Prizrak said:

    One of these days I'll spend the money and get an appropriate Arcade stick for the 2600.

     

    It will change your life!  Ok, maybe not, but it can make playing games a bit more enjoyable, and more "arcade accurate" for those arcade ports.  Personally I don't hate the CX-40 at all...I grew up with it.  But with the ability to build my own...it's almost like model building to me...creating new controllers.  

      

    On 5/16/2021 at 8:42 AM, Tinman said:

    Impressive!  I love it.

     

    Thanks.  

    • Like 1

  3. Posted

    For my most recent, and most pain in the butt (with regards to wiring) controller, my new ATARI 2600 Edition - VVG Switch-O-Matic Controller:

     

    1sKr2O.png

     

    vwc6y5.png

     

    Full details/specs for it can be found HERE, but "simplistically," it purpose is to allow me to assign any of the ATARI 2600's inputs (Joystick UP / DOWN / LEFT / RIGHT or Button 1 / 2) to any of the 4 arcade push-buttons, so that I can play games how I want to, not how the programmers decided I should.  In the pic above, it's configured for how I like to play H.E.R.O. on the 2600, (and controller port 2 on the ColecoVision...seriously, read the manual), with the joystick only being used for left and right movements, button 1 for firing the Microlaser, button 2 for hovering (joystick up), and button 3 for setting dynamite (joystick down).  For those who would like to play SMURF with a push-button assigned as Joystick UP / JUMP (instead of pressing up on the joystick)...this type of featured controller allows for it.  

     

    I've actually had the idea for a controller like this, for the ColecoVision, for quite a while now, but just haven't gotten around to it.  For a ColecoVision version, should I decide to make one, any of the arcade push-buttons (either 5 or 6 in total, I haven't decided yet), would be able to be assigned to any of the 20 possible ColecoVision inputs (4 joystick inputs, 12 keypad inputs, 4 S.A. buttons).  The biggest problem with a ColecoVision version, will be the 5 or 6 (depending on the number of arcade push-buttons) 2-pole / 20-position rotary switches required, to allow for maximum configuration possibilities.  And the problem isn't that they don't exist...because they do; the problem is their price.  The cheapest I can find them for is about $75 a piece...times the 5 or 6 that are needed...plus all of the other hardware costs...and then it has to be wired!  So that's why I started with the "cheap & easy" ATARI 2600 version first, only 6 inputs and 1 single common...which made it a lot less expensive, and the wiring only took a couple of hours, versus a couple of days. 

    • Like 1

  5. Posted

    A while back I was persuaded to sell the ATARI 2600 arcade joystick controller that I had built for myself...so I needed to make something new to replace it.  As usual, I tried to think bigger and better, in an attempt to build something truly special and unique...and I came up with this; my ATARI 2600 Edition - VVG Switch-O-Matic Controller:

     

    1sKr2O.png

     

    The controller was built into a reinforced and weighted 14" x 8.5" aluminum sloped-top enclosure, and for the basic game-play controls, includes an 8-way iL EuroJoystick 2 (w/ medium bat handle, modified spring, and Cherry micro-switches) and (4) Groovy Game Gear Classx push-buttons (w/ Cherry D41X micro-switches).  At first glance, some may feel that the 4 push-buttons are a bit of an overkill for a 2600 controller, but I assure you're there is a good reason for them (at least in my mind).  

     

    The ancillary controls, center mounted between the joystick and the arcade push-buttons, are the inspiration for the Switch-O-Matic moniker.  

     

    vwc6y5.png

     

    Each of the (4) arcade push-buttons (labeled "button 1" thru "button 4"), has a mating 6-position rotary switch (w/ solid aluminum knob w/ black indicating line), and an on/off push-button switch (with mechanical indicating cap - black/orange).  The rotary switches select which function their mating arcade push-buttons will be wired as (Joystick UP / DOWN / LEFT / RIGHT, or Button 1 / 2), and the on/off push-button switches easily enable or disable each of their mating arcade push-buttons, without changing their previous setting.  So for example, if the game you're playing has you use the joystick for left & right directional control, up for thrust, and down for shields, plus the fire button for firing...you could keep the left & right directional controls on the joystick, and assign the button "firing" to button 1, joystick up "thrust" to button 2, joystick down "shields" to button 3, and have button 4 disabled...or any other possible combination.  

     

    The (4) on/off push-button switches in a diamond shape, directly to the right of the joystick, are used to easily enable/disable each of the (4) joystick directions.  So for example, in a game where you've assigned joystick down to one of the arcade push-buttons, you can disable the joystick's physical down switch, so that you can't accidentally trigger it (via the joystick) during gameplay.  

     

    The top left, "skill" on/off push-button switch, selects which mode the controller is in; either "b" (beginner), or "a" (advanced).  When in Advanced mode, the controller is completely configurable as described above...but when in Beginner mode, all of the lower ancillary controls are bypassed, and the joystick is a standard 8-way joystick, and the orange arcade push-button (button 1), is the fire button...regardless of the state of any of the lower switches.  This way, if you have the controller set very specifically for one game that you're playing in Advanced mode, you can easily switch back to Beginner mode, to play all other games normally...without having to switch everything back and re-configure it.   

     

    The top right, "fire button(s)" on/off push-button switch, selects whether the controller is wired for 1 or 2 ATARI 2600 fire buttons.  When on (enabled), fire button 2 (used in some hacks and homebrews), is available to be assigned to any of the (4) arcade push-buttons in Advanced mode, and is defaulted/wired to button 2 in Beginner mode.  When disabled, it is un-wired, due to incompatibility issues with the 2nd fire button in some emulators and and on some "retro" ATARI-esque consoles.

     

    Then to complete the controller, cosmetically, the CPO artwork was created to compliment the ATARI 2600 woody consoles (and the era they come from), as well as to detail the functions of all of the ancillary controls.  The controller is wired with a custom 10' cable that I made, and two cord cleats are mounted onto the rear of the enclosure, for cable management.  

     

    In addition to the VVG Switch-O-Matic Controller above, I also built this one recently for the 2600:

     

    UCfGyY.png

     

    ...its my Phoenix Edition - VVG Experience Controller.  Using the actual/vintage hardware & controls, and silk-screened aluminum CPO from a Phoenix cocktail arcade cabinet, I built a dedicated arcade experience controller for the 2600 version of Phoenix...because why not.  In addition to the arcade 2-way joystick, and Barrier & Fire buttons, I added a joystick up/down paddle switch for multi-cart menu navigation, and a rocker switch to flip-flop the order of the buttons from Barrier (joystick down) as the left button and Fire (fire button) as the right button...to Fire (fire button) as the left button, and Barrier (joystick down) as the right button.  It also works great for similar games like Galaga, Galaxian, Space Invaders...and others.  

     

    Then lastly, a while back I was creating a Mini ColecoVision controller for my portfolio (because again, why not), so I decided to simultaneously make a 2600 variant as well.  So here's my Atari VCS Edition - VVG Mini Controller

     

    85GVMg.png

     

    ...for all of those who think most arcade sticks are too big.  Enjoy!

    • Like 9

  6. Posted

    2 minutes ago, opcode said:


    Actually it is a ColecoVision with SGM


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Amazing stuff.  It looks so much different (even graphically, in addition to the scrolling) from the previous version.  I honestly would have guessed it was for a more powerful system.  Well done.

  8. Posted

    44 minutes ago, rietveld said:

    thats a nice looking controller

    If you're gonna do it, do it right!

     

    I still have the Jaguar Pro to SAC conversion controller, as it was the only 1 of those I ever built...mostly because the Jaguar Pro controllers have always been a bit pricey (even back then).  I think I made something like 7 or 9 of the standard 2 button versions, which I sold either here or on ebay.  They're not super hard to wire, just time consuming. 

  9. Posted

    For the ones I made years ago, I kept the original Jaguar controller PCBs, then stuffed into the controller housing a ColecoVision PCB (for the diode array and contact points), then cut Jaguar PCB traces & hand wired/soldered point to point as necessary.  

     

    You can keep it "simple" and convert a standard Jaguar controller for 2 button compatibility:

     

    jagcolecoconversionas3.jpg

     

    ...or you can go fancy and use a Jaguar Pro controller, and then you can use the shoulder buttons for Front Line "arm rotation"...thusly:

     

    cvsuperactioncontrolpadha6.jpg

     

     

    • Like 1

  10. Posted

    Correction on my post above. ATARI pins 5 and 9 are the paddle pots, their buttons make use of unused digital direction contacts.  But modern hacks and homebrews for the 2600 and 8-bits make use of the pin 5 and 9 paddle lines to allow for a 2nd and 3rd button...via some witchcraft and trickery.  Sorry for the confusion.

  11. Posted

    I thought I remember reading in an Atari 2600 service manual, that the +5VDC at pin 7 was good for approximately 50mA..safely.  I've used it to power optical joysticks that draw around 35mA with no problems, on both 2600 and 7800 consoles (including the EM#1).  It's mainly used for the Paddle controllers on the 2600, and 3rd party joystick controllers that had an "auto-fire" circuit, made use of this power as well.  

     

    Keep in mind too, that while in most Coleco Hand Controllers, the controller cables may only have 7 wires (Pins 1/2/3/4/5/6/8), Pins 7 & 9 are connected at the console's controller port, and are used for quadrature inputs from "spinning/rotational" controls like the EM#2, the Roller Controller, and the Speed Roller on the Super Action Controllers.  

     

    Additionally, I believe the Atari 2600 controller port pinout you posted, is incorrect...as Pin #5 is for Paddle B's button, and Pin #9 is for Paddle A's button.  A standard CX-40 joystick controller cable, has only 6 wires (Pins 1/2/3/4/6/8), but at the console port, all of the pins are connected/used.  

  12. Posted

    1 hour ago, digress said:

    what's up with the pins instead of a pcb sticking out?

    I'd guess that those are from the cartridge slot that is supposed to be soldered to the ColeccoVision PCB.

    • Like 1

  13. Posted

    While not “technically” a ColecoVision controller (as a port / homebrew of the arcade game does not yet exist for the ColecoVision), I’d like to unveil my newest controller for the Atari 2600 / Coleco Expansion Module #1 (also compatible with some ColecoVision games):

     

    Phoenix Cocktail Edition – VVG Experience Controller

     

    UCfGyY.png

     

    All of the upright cabinets of Phoenix I have ever seen (from different publishers, in different regions) always feature a 4 push-button control panel, but the cocktail variants always employ a 2-way joystick and 2 push-buttons, like this little beauty right here.  I was able to source a pair of original control panels, from an Amstar Electronics Corp. licensed, Bally Group distributed, cocktail cabinet from ebay a few months ago.  And now with work slowing down a bit, I finally got a chance to build this one.  In this instance I was also able to do something unique that I’ve never been able to do before…which is, re-use the actual / original artwork CPO.  These are silk-screened aluminum panels, and the player 2’s CPO was still in good enough shape that I decided to re-use it, rather than re-draw, and print new artwork…adding to its arcade provenance.  The CPO is not 100% perfect, there is a little wear, and a few small defects in the art, but it is more than 40 years old, and I think it adds to the vintage authenticity of the overall build. 

     

    So built into a reinforced, Hammond Mfg. 14” x 8.5” aluminum housing, and featuring the original arcade cocktail cabinet controls (plus a few new ones of my own):

     

    ** (1)  2-Way (horizontal) micro-switch joystick (arcade original), (disassembled, cleaned, re-lubed) – Wired as Joystick Left / Right (ship movement)

     

    ** (2)  White-body, red-plunger micro-switch push-buttons (arcade original), (disassembled and cleaned) – Wired as Joystick Down (barrier), Fire Button (Fire)

     

    ** Then for multi-cart / in-game menu navigation (when necessary), I installed an NKK (ON)-OFF-(ON) rocker switch, - Wired to Joystick Up / Down, (built with a red paddle lever & black bezel to color coordinate with the joystick)

     

    **And to swap the orientation of the buttons from Barrier / Fire to Fire / Barrier (as was the layout on the Phoenix cocktail cabinets released in Australia…seriously), I installed an NKK ON-NONE-ON rocker switch, – Wired to flip / flop the wiring and controls of the 2 push-buttons, (built with a red rocker cap, and white bezel to color coordinate with the push-buttons)

     

    ** Then to finish it off, I created a small complimentary supplemental CPO for my new ancillary switches detailing their functions, and wired up a custom 10’ cable, and installed two cord cleats mounted to the rear of the housing for cable management. 

     

    The only change I made to the original hardware, was with regards to the micro-switches used on the original arcade push-buttons.  Most of the late 70’s – early 80’s Japanese games, used very long-life, and very industrial micro-switch based controls.  And in the instance of “slow-shooting” games like Phoenix and Galaxian (and others), the high forces required to press / actuate these push-buttons wasn’t that big of a problem, as you were pressing the button(s) so infrequently.  But when Galaga came out, with its fancy new “rapid-firing” shooting, they started changing their hardware, and started installing lighter force micro-switches.  So, as this controller can be used for lots of other games besides Phoenix (that only require a 2-way joystick, plus 1 “down” button (if needed), and 1 “fire” button), I decided to installer lower force micro-switches on these push-buttons for my controller.  Modern Western micro-switch based push-buttons use switches with a maximum operating force of approximately 75 – 150 grams…and there are even premium, lighter force switches…that only require an operating force of 20 – 45 grams.  The factory micro-switches originally installed on these arcade push-buttons, required a Herculean 400 grams of force to actuate…that’s just less than 1 lb!  Which again, if only playing slow paced shooting games like Phoenix, or Carnival…it can be fine, albeit tiring after a short while.  But to make this controller a bit more enjoyable to play with, I installed Cherry D44X series micro-switches that are rated at 75 grams of actuation force.  I did also test with Cherry D41X series switches that only require 45 grams of force, but as these push-buttons don’t have a plunger spring, those just felt too light. 

     

    Hopefully this controller can provide the necessary inspiration to some talented programmer(s) so that we will eventually see a homebrew release of Phoenix for the ColecoVision, or perhaps for the Atari 7800.  But for now, I’ll have to settle for playing the 2600 version...but at least I will be playing with real arcade hardware!

    • Like 1

  14. Posted

    7 minutes ago, DaViD_Boulet said:

    doubledown, thanks for your thorough and thoughtful responses to all of these (no doubt well trod) topics. It's probably exhausting when newbies like me start asking "all of the same questions all over again" that have already been laid to rest. But all new to me :) so thanks!

     

    I had remembered for the 2600 how I had to rotate the controller 45 degrees for qbert... but had *forgotten* it worked that way on colecovision too. No wonder I was having so much trouble last night ;)

     

    Do you still make custom controllers for order or recommend a particular source? like for someone like me who might want an 8 and 4 way with right-mount stick (which seems to break with the norm)? 

    Well it would be nice if newbies would read through threads...but a lot of the detailed ones (like this one) get pretty long, and some stuff changes over time, new hardware get's released, and the likes, so re-asking isn't always a bad thing.  

     

    I think the 5200 version of Q*bert has you manipulate the joystick in the actual diagonal directions...I think whilst also pressing/holding one of the fire buttons (versus rotating the controller in your hand), and I know the PS1 version (updated 3D garbage Q*bert...but also includes the awesome arcade original), allows for multiple styles of controls, including diagonals, rotating controller in hand, and both d-pad and thumb-stick I believe.  All of the others that I have played...always had you rotate the controller.  I've seen where a lot of people were "shocked" to discover this...because nobody reads manuals...even though tons of them are available to read for free online!  😊

     

    I do actively build controllers, I'm working on a few new ones right now, now that my real job has slowed a bit.  If you've got something in mind you're interested in (follow the link in my signature to easily view my "portfolio" on my website), let me know and I can get you a ballpark price.  It'll probably be a couple months before I'd be able to get to anything new though.  

    • Thanks 1

  16. Posted

    1 hour ago, DaViD_Boulet said:

    great info! And yea, I said "ambidextrous" only because I figured it would be easier to find controller setups made that way (versus hard-right), but as you mention that could add to the size of the base making it more difficult to hold in your lap etc. (realistically how I would play). So a configuration with stick on right and buttons on left would work fine for me. :)

     

    Also, I see a few vintage controllers that allows them to be changed from 4 to 8 direction by a simple twist of a dial. I'm curious why many of these larger "fully featured" custom controllers don't do that... maybe the parts available today wouldn't permit a simple user-selectable change like that? (I understand that many of these custom controllers could be disassembled and the directional guides easily changed... but that's not the sort of thing you'd want to have to do "just to switch games". 

     

    Also having said that... yes... the isometric games like QBert... does anyone make a controller or guide that would work that way... basically a 4-way guide that can rotate 45 degrees so that the "diagonals" now become the 4-way positions? Yeah... that would be sweet... ;)

    The biggest problem with 8-way / 4-way switchable sticks...is there usually is a bit of a compromise.  Modern joysticks can allow for this switch-o/change-o, via a couple of different methods.  One, is the removal/re-orientation of a shaft actuator, or restrictor gate...usually on the bottom of the joystick itself...within the housing.  So yes, the enclosure has to be opened to do this, which is obviously a huge pain.  There are a few other non-mechanical options, like the Mag-Stik Plus from Ultimarc (IL) (of which I've never read 1 great review of, thus have never tried it myself), or the ServoStik from Ultimarc, which is based on a Sanwa joystick, and has a motor/gearbox to rotate the restrictor internally (but it requires power to change it).  I've used these before:

     

    fidKQx.png

     

    ...and they're good, if you're ok with the feel of modern Japanese joysticks, and you can live with the contacts being make-before-break...versus a true 4-way's break-before-make (the game will determine if this is destructive or not).  I've also built a custom controller with both a true 8-way joystick and a true 4-way joystick, in one controller:

     

    9NqgDQ.png

     

    ...which while being a bit bigger of a controller housing (17" x 11.25"), is still completely lap compatible, and other than it's larger size, requires zero compromises for your normal 8-way / 4-way needs.  

     

    For Q*bert, on most consoles, including the ColecoVision...the game accepts the cardinal directional inputs of Up/Down/Left/Right, when the joystick is in your hand rotated 45 degrees clock-wise.  So no sort of gate or restrictor added to a joystick can account for this, the joystick mount, would physically need to allow the joystick itself to rotate and lock at top dead center, then loosen and allow for rotation and locking at a 45 degree rotated position.  It's possible, but would require either some sort of tool (screw driver/allen wrench) to loosen and re-tighten the fasteners, or they would have to be something like knurled thumb-screws...which then stick up and would be uncomfortable on your hands when playing.  The best way to play Q*bert, Q*bert's Qubes, and Congo Bongo, will always be with a dedicated controller for it, with a rotated joystick...like this (or similar):

     

    IaO32M.png

     

    So to re-iterate...no one controller, can be, or can have, everything that would be perfect for every situation (unless it's an absolute monster in size, or small and squished together, and thus an ergonomic nightmare).  You just have to decide if you can live with one 8-way controller, for all of your gaming needs, or if you have the space and budget to allow for multiple controllers, best suited to their range of games.  I'm personally fine with very game specific controllers, that can only be used for a few, or even only 1 game:

     

    1CK3vA.jpg

     

     

  17. Posted

    On 4/23/2021 at 3:04 AM, GeorgieBoysAXE said:

    Following this threats after seeing some chatter in the Colecovision Lunatics group about these beauties—definitely in the market for this particular stick.

    1B3040DC-221C-4376-9BFB-4A64AB376A2A.jpeg

     

    Regarding, the Coleco Black Edition - VVG Joystick Controller, more of these can be made in the future when I have time, but it would probably be a couple months or so.  Assuming the HORI HSS-09 donors can still be had for approximately $50 w/shipping (what I paid for them previously), the price for these was approximately $225.00

     

    1 hour ago, DaViD_Boulet said:

    I'd buy one in a heartbeat if there was a configuration with a centered joystick and duplicate buttons on the left (so I could use my right hand on the joystick and left hand for fire buttons). Any chance? And if not, any recommendation of a joystick that's "ideal" for playing games like pacman, dk, and qbert on the colecovision? (qbert needing 8 way directional)? or do many of you find having a separate 4 and 8 directional controller is best to pair up optimally by game?

     

    There isn't enough room on a VVG Joystick Controller (like pictured above here, in a HORI HSS-09 donor) (physically or ergonomically) to install a center joystick, multiple sets of buttons, and a keypad.  If you want to use your right hand on the joystick, and your left hand for the buttons...do you need a centered joystick / ambidextrous buttons controller, or would you simply be okay with a right joystick / left buttons controller...like this, or similar:

     

    5c5Zj0.png

     

    To do a centered joystick, ambidextrous buttons controller, it has to be built into a larger Hammond 17" or 20" housing (so it isn't an ergonomic bleep-show) like this:

     

    qnvf0Q.png

     

    ...but obviously, it is possible.  

     

    In a perfect world, you would want no less than 3 separate joystick controllers for the ColecoVision:

     

    1) 8-way joystick controller, for 8-way games like Zaxxon, Venture, Gorf and the likes

     

    1) 4-way joystick controller, for Donkey Kong, Donkey Kong Junior, Pac-Man and the likes

     

    1) 4-way (rotated 45 degrees clock-wise) joystick controller...for Q*bert, Q*Bert's Qubes, and Congo Bongo

     

    You can technically play "all" joystick games with an 8-way joystick, but you may experience some frustrations whilst playing 4-way games with it, and rotating a larger controller housing like these 45 degrees to play Q*bert can be awkward.  I just assume have 1 specific controller for each and every game!  😉

  18. Posted

    7 minutes ago, Tron Unit said:

    Or maybe they got it and it didn’t work on their TV too so they decided to offload it. 😜

    I thought of that...but if they were just "off-loading" it (versus scalping)...he/she could have have simply listed it with a BIN to re-coup their costs and selling fees.  😉

  21. Posted

    For my own personal curiosity...why would someone choose one of these 192-in-1 dip-switch multi-carts...versus the Atarimax ColecoVision Ultimate SD cart?  Is it simply the price difference, or are they not aware of the Atarimax cart's existence?  I realize that the Atarimax is a bit more expensive (but it's retro gaming...it's not exactly a cheap hobby to begin with)...but with being able to add new games to it, (including a lot of the great, and ever-increasing number of modern homebrews)...and it's on-screen game selection menu (vs. dip-switches)...it surprises me that the dip-switch style of carts are still even around.  Again, just my curiosity.  

  22. Posted

    I remember the Dina I had, had a horrible RF output, so I just added the composite A/V jacks.  Not sure how different the different versions/systems are, or which version I had, but mine had a TMS9918 VDP, which outputs composite video natively.  No circuitry required, just install the jacks, and wire the video, sound, and ground.  

  23. Posted

    Anybody who makes custom controllers should have no problem offering righty or lefty...its just a matter of flip-flopping the holes. I've made a couple of right hand joystick controllers for those who wanted them, or because they were arcade accurate.  Its not a big deal.

    • Like 1

  24. Posted

    I agree that using the heart button for Popeye's "punch" button isn't a perfect concept...it's just the first game I thought of with hearts so prominent in the game.  It could simply be used as a start game button on a Popeye controller, wired through a rotary keypad selector switch, in lieu of a keypad.  

     

    Right now the absolute best idea I can come up with for either of these would be for an NES, Mike Tyson's Punch-Out!! controller.  Use the Heart for the "Select" button, and use the Star for the "Start" button...and hear me out as to why.  Between rounds, pressing the "Select" button can increase Mac's Stamina...not exactly the same as his hearts in-round...but it does help his "health", so similar in concept.  Then during a round, pressing the "Start" button will throw an Uppercut/Kock Out Blow...if Mac has "stars" in reserve.  

  25. Posted

    So I found out today that these buttons exist (made by Sanwa):

     

    q3pDpQ.jpg

     

    XcjwjB.jpg

     

    The "star" shaped version is available with a few different plunger colors.  Yellow, pictured above, as well as red, blue, and white...all of the different colored plungers share the same yellow body/bezel.  The "heart" button is only available in the pink apparently.  I don't know what I'd use them for...but I'm pretty sure I need to at least use 1 of them for something, so somebody help me out and think of a good game tie-in where it would make sense to use 1 or more of these.  Popeye comes to mind for the "heart" button...but I'm drawing a blank for the "star" button.  

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