doubledown

Most ColecoVision cartridge game boxes weren't shrink-wrapped, at least not Coleco published games, but others like AtariSoft and Activision were. ADAM DDP cassette cases came shrink-wrapped/sealed, and I'm about 95% sure that the "arcade box" ADAM releases (Zaxxxon, DK, and DK Jr.), also had the outer packaging shrink-wrapped.

I got PCB #2 installed tonight, by re-wiring my 7800 Commando controller: As Commando was released for both the 2600 & 7800 it just made sense. For this one I used a Black/Green cap for the switch, and printed a new green Fuji logo to match the aesthetics better. Informally at this point, if I were to make these 2600/7800 2-button PCBs available, what would your preference be to any would-be buyer: Fully assembled, with resistors, diodes, and switch PCB with some or all, loose components, as a solder yourself kit Bare PCB, you supply your own components & switch

Well if they're not sealed, the numbers would be significantly lower than 200/300/300. I just sold a Zaxxon that was: opened arcade box in good/very good shape, manual was near mint w/ standard factory crease, and the DDP was still factory shrink-wrapped, and it sold on ebay for $76.00.

Depends on if they're sealed or opened, and if opened... tested/working or not tested. Zaxxon $75-$200, Donkey Kong & Donkey Kong Junior $150-$300...assuming all complete, and depending on condition. Again, ebay will get you the highest selling price.

If you want to sell it for the maximum moneys...list it on ebay and see what it sells for.

You've posted this in 3 threads now...new AtariAge member. Congratulations on the find, and if you wish to sell it here, 1 post in the Marketplace would be fine, or for maximum exposure, I would suggest that you list it on ebay.

Any particular console/controller model?

It was already posted in the ColecoVision section about an hour before these 2 posts.

I can't believe this topic is still alive!

Pretty sure there's a list here somewhere.

Probably $75-$150 if you can confirm that it is still working/playable. Ebay bidders will let you know what it's worth.

It's a possibility, I honestly never considered it. When I was originally testing the concept, everything was neatly wired into my breadboard. Then when I re-wired my CX2600 controller with this feature initially, I simply hand-wired in all of the components...which makes the internal wiring, a bit rats-nesty. Not to mention the extra time soldering all of the wires to all of the component leads, and heat-shrinking all of the connections is just so..well, time consuming. It was simple enough to design and draw up the PCB, and since the 6PDT push-button switch I use also has PCB pins, it serves as a mounting fixation for the board, as well as, all of the components. Once the panel-mount switch w/ PCB is then installed into the enclosure, wiring is a breeze, and you don't have to worry about the PCB flopping around on the inside, or having to figure out some sort of way to affix it inside somewhere. With the new board(s) in hand, I re-wired my controller again to clean it up internally. I got (3) of these PCBs with my "prototype" order from OSH Park, which I already have plans for, all (3) of them. It would be a matter of figuring out what sort of demand there is, to see how many would be getting ordered, to get some better idea of a quantity pricing if applicable. For the (3) I got, they ended up being $6.83 each (with shipping costs figured in) for just the boards, plus then obviously the costs for the components and the switch (plus their associated sales taxes and shipping costs) in the instance of how I am using them. If there is enough interest for this, this is definitely something I can look into. There's also the consideration of compatibility to think of. I understand that people play 2600/7800 games in lots of different ways these days...original consoles, console clones, emulation consoles, emulation on a PC, with O.E. carts, with flash carts...so on, and so forth. I personally use original hardware consoles, and original carts and/or modern flash/SD carts, and I have successfully tested this circuit with the following devices & cartridges: ColecoVision Expansion Module #1 (VCS module) as a 2600 (my other 2600 consoles are boxed up right now): - with a Space Rocks physical cart - with a Harmony Cart with multiple game files including: --- Space Rocks --- H.E.R.O (2-button hack) --- Princess Rescue --- and others Atari 7800 in 7800 mode: - with a Xevious physical cart - with a Choplifter physical cart Atari 7800 in 2600 mode: - with a Space Rocks physical cart - with a Harmony Cart with multiple game files including: --- Space Rocks --- H.E.R.O (2-button hack) --- Princess Rescue --- and others What I don't know, is, will this work with something like one of the clone or FlashBack type consoles, or, with a DE-9 to USB adapter for PC use; as I don't have, nor do I use, any of these. I only bring it up, because a Tutankham controller I made for the ColecoVision (which uses a similar concept for the left/right side buttons that are wired separately to a 2-way joystick for firing, plus combined with diodes to a single pole "Flash Bomb" button)...which works perfectly fine on a ColecoVision and/or ADAM, did not work on the CollectorVision Phoenix (which is an FPGA ColecoVision) for some unknown reason. Something to consider for those who would be interested, but don't use actual hardware.

I finally got around to finishing this one, by replacing the Black/Green indicating cap with a Black/Orange version (along with replacing the legend artwork) so that it better fits with the aesthetics of the controller: And to make my life easier with regards to the wiring, I decided to design a custom PCB for this feature/option, for any future use I may have for it: I'll probably retrofit my 7800 Commando arcade controller with this feature as well, since I've got a couple of PCBs left over from the prototype order.

Plenty to be had on ebay...as low as $25.55.

So I'm considering building myself a new 2600 hybrid, Joystick & Paddle arcade-controller, and I'm looking for some input. My current idea/concept is this: This would be built into a 17" x 11.25" sloped-top aluminum enclosure, and will feature the following: (1) 8-way joystick (2) 2600 "joystick" push-buttons (wired for 2-button 2600 compatibility, maybe additionally, 2-button 7800 compatibility, I haven't decided yet) a push-button switch to alternate the wiring between Joystick / Paddle mode (1) paddle controller with an "Atari" arcade paddle knob (or 2600 paddle knob) (1) 2600 "paddle" push-button all wired to the main "P1" controller cable. Then a 2nd controller cable would be wired as the "P2" cable, to add the (5) Video Touch Pad buttons (1/2/3/4/5) for playing Star Raiders. I'm not a die hard Star Raiders fan by any means, but with the medium-sized controller enclosure, there is enough room between the joystick and "joystick" push-buttons to add them, so I figured why not. I realize that this is not a complete do-it-all controller, that is useable for every single game for the 2600. No Driving Controller, no Trak-Ball controller, no 2nd joystick for Raiders of the Lost Ark...so on, and so forth. But to my knowledge Indy 500 is the only Driving Controller game, most of the other games that make use of, or require, the full 12-button Video Touch Pad / Keyboard Controllers are edutainment titles (which I have little interest in), there's flat out not enough room for a Trak-Ball, and I personally don't care for RotLA. Also I have zero (seriously zero...I mean none) interest in making this controller laid out ambidextrously, as I always manipulate an arcade joystick with my left hand (button(s) right), and an arcade paddle with my right hand (button(s) left) when I have the option. It would also destroy the ergonomics to make this playable for both right hand/left hand for all controls, and again I'm making this for me. So with all that being said, have I glaringly missed anything that would add a great deal of benefit/feature to this controller, that I haven't thought of? I ask, as I am not an expert regarding the 2600 games library, especially with modern hacks and homebrews that may use a controller/scheme that I'm not aware of. Thanks in advance for your thoughts, opinions, and input.

I recently got my Cyclone III, and while unfortunately it won't work on my PS2 as I had hoped, I decided to still build the controller as I intended to, only now for PC/MAME use: Nothing too flashy...simply the necessary controls required for Tempest, and enough real estate for the artwork, and comfortable long-term play ergonomics. Built into a Hammond 14" x 8.25" aluminum enclosure (reinforced & weighted), with the Cyclone III, (2) Sanwa OBSF-30 silent (black) push-buttons, and the control panel artwork is a scaled-down copy of the Tempest cabaret cabinet's CPO. I even added a cord cleat to the rear of the housing to wrap up the USB cable when not in use. I still suck at Tempest...but it's a lot more enjoyable to play now!

Also consider too, that unless the electrical/electronic items that you're "cleaning" with alcohol (of any dilution/strength) are placed into an air-tight or vacuum-sealed container with a moisture absorbing desiccant immediately after you "clean" them, they will be constantly exposed to dangerous water, due to humidity in the atmosphere. Especially more-so, if stored in an unconditioned space like an attic, outdoor garage or shed...or in a damp basement.

Is it an arcade port, console game port, or entirely "new" game?

I had this exact thought when thinking about SMURF last night, that it would be easier for kids to not have to manipulate the buttons. I have no children (thank all that is good and holy), but I have friends and relatives who do (suckers); and I'm often befuddled when watching their small children attempt to manipulate some sort of game controller, or R/C car controller. As their hands are so small, they can't reach and manipulate all the controls with their tiny/worthless little digits without re-gripping the controller...like real full sized humans can. Its both sad and hilarious at the same time!

I recently purchased a digital to analog converter (HDMI/SDI to Composite video & S-Video & Component video & DVI & VGA...plus audio output)...specifically, so that I could play this: ...on a CRT rotated to its vertical orientation...as Mr. Miyamoto intended me to. Old school games just look better on a CRT, and "simulated" scan-lines can't/don't provide an authentic look. Obviously to each is own, and everybody (no matter how ignorant), is entitled to their opinions (no matter how wrong they are). 😄

Why not...they're dirt cheap, and pretty plentiful.

Wow...really shooting for the moon with those listings...good luck.

It's already a cake walk for anybody selecting skill 1, wherein there are no enemies to evade...but nobody other than a very small child would select this skill level...right!?!

When you duck (by pulling back/down on the joystick), SMURF does stop walking...if using a 4 way joystick, or if/when using an 8-way joystick, you completely relieve the actuator from one of the side (right or left) switches. So if you're holding right to walk right, then pull the joystick down to the lower right corner to Duck...you will continue to walk to the right. You have to move the joystick to the down/center position (if an 8-way) to actually duck. The joystick being pressed up to jump is similar. You have to completely come off of either side switch when walking, to actually jump. So if buttons were wired to work as jump and duck, you would have to know/remember to let go of the joystick so that you would actually jump or duck when you pressed either of these buttons, or wire each button with a 2nd switch to break the Right & Left joystick switch commons, so that the Jump and Duck buttons would win out in the instant of a tie. Additionally as the super jump is actually program based (not solely input based), in that it sees a jump input, then something along the lines of seeing this same jump input again after the first short jump is complete, but within a certain amount of time after, is what allows the super jump. Without active electronics, including a smaller timer circuit (or some such similar), I'm not sure that you could have a "dedicated" super jump button. Of course this whole point is moot, if someone could "easily" re-program the game to work with this concept...using buttons, versus on the joystick. Unfortunately, game programming is not my bailiwick.

I think it's been mostly addressed, but here it is as I understand it, and maybe more plainly: The 2600 can only read 1 "button". The 7800 can read 2 "buttons". When using a 7800 controller on a 2600, both buttons do the same thing...the 1 2600 button. Old 2600 games have been hacked (and new homebrew games have been programmed) to allow for the reading of a 2nd button, using the paddle lines, which is radically different from how the 7800 reads 2 buttons. So if you wire a controller for 2600 2-button compatibility, it won't work right on 7800 games that need 2 buttons, and the 7800's 2 buttons, don't work correctlyfor hacks/homebrews that can use the 2600 2-button method. So the option was, wire your controller for 7800 2-button compatibility or 2600 2-button compatibility....my wiring scheme allows for both. I'm sure this is not a complete list, but these are some/most of the 2600 games that can use 2 2600 buttons that I know of: Asteroids Bump 'n' Jump Defender Defender Arcade Dfender Double Dragon Enduro Ghostbusters H.E.R.O. Kangaroo Kung Fu Master Last Starfighter Mission Survive Montezuma's Revenge Moon Patrol Moon Patrol Arcade Mouser Trap Omega Race Plaque Attack Pole Position Princess Rescue Quist for Quintana Roo Radar Lock Sea Hawk Solaris Space Rocks Spy Hunter Star Voyager Starmaster Star Trek Super Cobra Tomarc The Barbarian Yar's Revenge I grew up playing Galaga (cocktail table) at a Pizza Hut in my youth, and it was only playable as joystick left / fire button right...so that's what I played the most, and to this day, it's my preferred setup. Conversely, I also grew up with a 2600 and CX-40 and WICO Command Control joysticks, so I'm also very adapt using my right hand for the joystick, and my left hand to hold the controller base. So for me, if it's a lap or table top controller, I prefer left joystick / right buttons. If it's a controller I hold in my hand (CX-40, WICO), then I always hold it in my left hand, manipulate the button with my left thumb, and operate the stick with my right. But for those who prefer the "wrong orientation", I have made a few right joystick / left button configuration controllers: This Lady Bug controller was specifically made for the hand preference of it's new owner: And this Mouse Trap controller was made to replicate it's arcade counterpart: I'm sure its entirely possible...but I'll let someone else handle that...as I have zero interest in such a thing. I like to play my vintage joystick games with a joystick...not a gamepad...just my personal preference.