doubledown
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Posts posted by doubledown
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Confirmed!
So I took a PS/2 cable I had laying around, cut off one end, and wired/crimped the 5V and Ground pins/wires (via the ADAM power pinout) into a 9-pin controller connecter. Which I then plugged into an ADAM - "Accessory" power adapter, which I then plugged the Roller Controller's power cable into, and voila...it works...perfectly; and this eliminated all 3 of the "issues" I had noticed with previous testing, when using an external power supply, to power the Roller Controller.
@Bmack36 - thanks for the technical info!
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14 minutes ago, Bmack36 said:The power and ground can be pulled from the PS/2 as well.
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4 minutes ago, Bmack36 said:Yes, that is what I meant, and yes it is possible
Very interesting...any idea what the maximum safe current draw is for the 5V source at the expansion port?
What about "power" at the front keyboard PS/2 port, as an alternative?
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11 hours ago, Bmack36 said:The warping is specific to the Roller Controller and is caused by the power supply to it. Since the controller ports don't have any true power or grounds going through it, there can be a differential between the grounds in the roller controller and the Phoenix. On a Colecovision this can't happen because the roller controller plugs into both the power supply and the CV. If the Phoenix is powered by the expansion port of the phoenix or the ground is connected between the roller controller power and the ground on the Phoenix, then the roller controller will work properly.
Turbo has some software "drift" built into the game and isn't related to the actual steering wheel input.
I'm guessing you meant to type "if the Roller Controller is powered by the expansion port of the Phoenix"...and if that's the case...is this possible? Does the Expansion port provide +5V, plus ground, capable of the minimal amperage required to power the Roller Controller, and if so, can you tell us which pins these are? And alternately, is the keyboard port on the front of the Phoenix, wired as the de-facto PS/2 keyboard standard, wherein Pin 4 is +5V (@275mA) and Pin 3 is the ground...which would also be more than enough to power the Roller Controller (or Driving Module)?
8 hours ago, Swami said:Will this fix the pin 9 interference with games using joysticks with a line to pin 9 as well? If not, here is a lazy man's solution that is not much more than a male and female DB9 breakout and can be switched in place.
https://www.amazon.com/Breakout-Board-Switches-Connectors-Rubber/dp/B07DGJDWYB
The info provided by Bmack36 is regarding "spinning controllers" that require power...and not applicable to joystick type controllers that happen to have pin 9 wired/connected within their cable.
That adapter you linked, would work to disconnect Pin 9, and as long as the little bit of length of Pin/wire 9 that is still there, (from the connector to the dip switch that can "break" it's line), doesn't pick up any interference, it could possibly work to alleviate the glitch.
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I just got this unit HERE, specifically to use my Nintendo Switch on a 20" curved CRT (for playing some of the "vintage" Arcade Archive games available in the eShop), but I've also tested it with my CollectorVision Phoneix, and the Hyperkin RetroN 77 (via their HDMI outputs)...so far the results look great, with no noticeable lag. It will accept digital HDMI in, and it can output analog Composite video, S-Video, and/or Component video (among others), plus 2 channel analog audio. I've tried the 3 main outputs (haven't yet tried VGA or DVI-A), and the component video looks the best, obviously.
This is a cell phone picture of, Nintendo Switch, Arcade Archives - Donkey Kong, on my 14" flat-tube Advent CRT, w/ Component Video, before I received my newer 20":
Bask in the pixelated goodness!
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I would assume it was due to hardware limitations, but I can't say for certain. The SMS port was the much better version of the 2, until the Genesis version was released, and blew both the NES and SMS versions out of the water...albeit 5 years after the original arcade release.
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When talking about "joystick-type" controllers, specifically meaning controllers that don't have spinning components (like the steering module, or the roller controller), if Pin 9 at the controller's cable end is connected to a wire inside it's cable, lock-up issues have been noticed. In my case I've only noticed it with modern homebrew games...never with original BITD games. If you have one of my controllers, and it has the AMP brand 9-pin connector, it can be opened up, and you can simply cut Pin 9's wire at the end of the cable jacket, and pull the socket out of the connector and discard it. Alternatively, I've heard that if you connect/short Pins 7 & 9 internally inside the controller, this can solve the issue too, although I've not tried it. Also alternatively, a short "extension cable," 9-pin M-to-F, that does not have Pin/wire 9 installed, can be plugged into the Phoenix, then the controller plugged into it, and this will also "disconnect" Pin 9. If your modified ball-knob hand controllers had say a Sega Genesis controller cable installed, to achieve a straight cord versus the coily cord of the originals...those cables will also have Pin 9 connected...which can cause problems. Have you ever noticed the problems when using an SNES controller?
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I have some Sega Master System game for sale. All of the games are working, and most are complete. Please see the list below for pictures, individual game prices (USD), the details of the condition of each game, as well as what is included with each game. The games will be shipped boxed and carefully protected, and individual game shipping costs are $7 per game (within the U.S.), or I'll work with you on combined shipping if multiple games are purchased. Payments can be sent via PP F&F, or standard PP payment + applicable PP fees. Those outside the U.S. can contact me for a shipping quote for anything you're interested in.
After Burner (a) - $10 (high scores have been written in the manual)
After Burner (b) - $7 (no manual)
Choplifter - $10 (damage to cover art/case, no manual)
Double Dragon - $10 (no manual)
G-LOC: Air Battle - $15
Golvellius: Valley of Doom - $60
Great Football - $10
King's Quest: Quest for the Crown - $90
Miracle Warriors: Seal of The Dark Lord - $35 (map included)
Montezuma's Revenge - $100
Pro Wrestling - $10
Rambo: First Blood - Part II - $20
Rocky - $15
Sonic the Hedgehog 2 - $45
Sports Pad Football - $35
The Ninja - $20
Vigilante - $20
Zaxxon 3-D - $15
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Much to my surprise, even though they were shipped via the USPS...my new ball knobs arrived a couple days earlier than expected...so without further ado:
Coleco Black 4B (BALL) - VVG Enhanced Controller:
** iL Threaded EuroJoystick Shaft (extended) = same height as my modified iL factory Bat knob/handles
** GGG Hand Candy 1-7/16" ball knob, Midnight Slate
Super Action (BALL) - VVG Enhanced Controller:
** iL Threaded EuroJoystick Shaft (extended) = same height as my modified iL factory Bat knob/handles
** GGG Hand Candy 1-7/16" ball knob, Arcade Red
Coleco Black 4B (BALL-Short) - VVG Enhanced Controller:
** iL Threaded EuroJoystick Shaft (standard) = "short" height...more along the lines of the shorter Japanese sticks from Seimitsu and Sanwa
** GGG Hand Candy 1-7/16" ball knob, Midnight Slate
Super Action (BALL-Short) - VVG Enhanced Controller:
** iL Threaded EuroJoystick Shaft (standard) = "short" height...more along the lines of the shorter Japanese sticks from Seimitsu and Sanwa
** GGG Hand Candy 1-7/16" ball knob, Arcade Red
These controllers are the same specs of the controller variants from post #436, with the exception of the joystick shaft & ball knob changes.
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1 minute ago, NIAD said:Considering the size of the controller enclosure, I personally would have it set on my desk in front on the TV or on a coffee table in front of another TV. Definitely wouldn’t have it resting on my lap as I tried that with the CollectorVision Arcade Controller and it was not comfortable.
The CollectorVision arcade controller was a "LOT" taller than the sloped top enclosures I use (almost 4+")...thus a little hard to use in your lap comfortably. As always, personal preference applies...blah, blah, blah. The enclosures pictured above in post #436, are the small Hammond enclosures, at approximately 14" wide, x 8.25" front-to-back, and only 1.5" tall in the front, with a 10 degree slope up to the rear/back. My personal preference is the next size up (medium-sized) at 17" wide, x 11.25" front-to-back, and the same 1.5" tall in the front, with the same 10 degree slope up to the rear back. Again personal preference...blah, blah, blah!
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10 hours ago, NIAD said:Have you ever considering installing a CV system in one of these cases? Actually a Phoenix system would probably be easier due to it's size and the fact that it has built-in SGM and F18a support.
9 hours ago, Pixelboy said:So you'd have a long wire going from your lap to the TV, and another long wire going to the wall socket? I guess that would be workable, especially with a wall socket close to the couch.
Anything's possible. Are you thinking it's the console in the enclosure, plus the joystick...or simply a console transplant? If its a combo unit (console/controller) in one package, then as Luc mentions you'd have an A/V cable to the TV and a power connection coming out of the enclosure. Which if at a desk right in front of the monitor, cables could be short/manageable, but if across a living room...they could get pretty long. Plus if a combo unit, a larger enclosure would be required...assuming you'd want to keep a cartridge slot.
4 hours ago, youki said:Wouldn't be better to have the buttons and stick neared the front border?
I suppose you designed like that in order to put your hand on the front. But if you look at arcade cabinets from the 80's it is not like that.
I personally find more comfortable to have buttons and joystick to a distance from the border like below.
It all comes down to personal preference with regards to ergonomics...and in my case no. When standing at an arcade cabinet (assuming you're a full sized adult human), your upper arms and forearms are both very "downward" (gravity is doing the work here), and when you manipulate the controls, you don't really need to, nor can you really rest your palms on the control panel; partially due to the fact that your wrists can't bend backwards comfortably more than about 45-55 degrees...so the controls were very frontward on the panels. But when you're playing with a joystick controller on a table, or your lap in front of you, your upper arms are still downward, but now your forearms are more horizontal, and usually, slightly upward a bit from horizontal. Because of this...most people find it exhausting/tiring to hold their forearms and hands unsupported in the air for long periods of time, when the controls are very forward, providing no support for your palms. If someone preferred, the controls can be moved more towards the player...but the physical depth of the controls, with reference to the depth of the enclosure has to be considered in such matters. I have a HORI Real Arcade Pro V Hyabusa for my Nintendo Switch...and I never use it, due to the controls being too forward, towards the player...providing no palm/wrist support. It's fine, if I set it on my workbench and stand at it (like an arcade cabinet) in the basement...but in my lap, up in the video game room, when sitting...I find it annoyingly uncomfortable for any duration of time. So is just a preference thing...like ball-knob or bat-knob...leaf-switches or micro-switches...and all the other options.
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After a bit of pondering about what controller(s) I would make first, using my new custom designed/manufactured ColecoVision controller PCBs...I figured I'd just start simple, with 2 universal/staple designs. So unveiling my:
Coleco Black 4B (BAT) - VVG Enhanced Controller:
** Hammond Mfg. 14” x 8” aluminum enclosure – braced, stiffened, and weighted
** iL EuroJoystick 2, 8-way, black, bat-knob joystick, w/ Cherry micro-switches – modified (molded shaft shoulder cut 0.281” shorter, which lowers the overall height of the shaft/knob for superior ergonomics when installed in a thin metal panel)
** iL PSL-L, concave push-buttons (2), dark gray, & (2), black, w/ Cherry micro-switches (premium 40g)
** VVG ColecoVision Controller PCB w/ 12-button keypad, w/ C&K key-switch buttons w/ square caps, (10) grey, (2) black, w/ button legends
** ColecoVision console-inspired front face-plate artwork
** Custom-made 10’ cable, w/ rear-mounted cord cleats
...and of course, my:
Super Action (BAT) - VVG Enhanced Controller:
** Hammond Mfg. 14” x 8” aluminum enclosure – braced, stiffened, and weighted
** iL EuroJoystick 2, 8-way, red, bat-knob joystick, w/ Cherry micro-switches – modified (molded shaft shoulder cut 0.281” shorter, which lowers the overall height of the shaft/knob for superior ergonomics when installed in a thin metal panel)
** iL PSL-L, concave push-buttons (1 ea.), yellow, red, purple, & blue, w/ Cherry micro-switches (premium 40g)
** VVG ColecoVision Controller PCB w/ 12-button keypad, w/ C&K key-switch buttons w/ square caps, (12) black, w/ button legends
** ColecoVision console-inspired front face-plate artwork
** Custom-made 10’ cable, w/ rear-mounted cord cleats
Of course these same models can and will be made/offered with iL's replacement threaded shafts, w/ ball-knobs (versus bat knobs), which is actually my personal preference for early 80's video games; but I'm currently waiting on the shipment of the premium ball knobs that I ordered for them, and I'll post pictures of those as assembled, once they have arrived...hopefully sometime this next week.
Alternately of course, other brands of joysticks and push-buttons, like those made by Seimitsu and Sanwa (and others) can be substituted for the iL components if that is someone's preference...I simply prefer the iL components myself.
Pictured above are 2 of my new PCBs, with several of the colors of square caps (below), that are available for the C&K key-switch push-buttons, that I'm using for the keypad...which can be used for other designs/themes. The manufacturer also lists yellow and green caps as available on their cut sheet for the buttons, but I couldn't find any vendors that had them in stock...so I'll have to look into those a little bit more. Enjoy!
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Expensive is a relative term and will vary by the user...but at $55-$65 for the SFC NTT Data controllers last time I checked, I don't consider them "radically expensive." I will stipulate however, that several million fewer were made, versus the standard SNES control pad variety, thus they can be a bit trickier to track down...but they always seem to be available on ebay. I just think it would be a nice option for those who would prefer the convenience of an actual dedicated keypad...versus using the "hold this button, and now this button equals this button" concept...again if it is possible. I'm probably in the minority here with this thinking/mind-set...as most folks only seem interested in the lowest cost option possible, regardless of quality, ergonomics, and/or convenience. Again, just thinking as it's simply an alternate SNES/SFC controller, no major hardware/design changes would be necessary, unless additional components would be required on the PCB. But if it can be made the same, as 1 unit that works with standard SNES/SFC control pads with modifiers, or a Data controller with its keypad...then the adapter is still the same cost for the builder and/or buyer...and its up to the end user to decide if they are happy with their $5 Chinese knock-off controller, a little more for a legit Nintendo controller, or the "ridiculous" $55-$65 for a Data controller. My two cents.
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You can also play Robotron: 2084 on an SNES with an SNES controller, via the Williams Arcade's Greatest Hits cartridge. 😀
Any consideration to program something like this for the Super Famicom NTT Data controller, as it's an SNES controller with a built in keypad...versus using modifier keys?
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I've been using this particular HAPP arcade power supply for my ADAMs and ColecoVisions, for over 10 years now...same single unit. Granted I had to make up the cables to connect it to the consoles, and I added a power switch on the incoming AC line, mounted in the front face...but I've been super happy with it.
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2 hours ago, socrates63 said:Thanks. I reached out to pixelboy and will register with him to buy the controller.
Sounds good.
Just now, slx said:Lacking space for a separate desktop controller for every system, I have always dreamt of a "multi-system" desktop controller with switching options for various systems (a bit like the Quickshot 128), preferably for Atari standard/7800/Jaguar/Genesis and maybe Vectrex.
Multi-system controllers are obviously possible, it just depends on how "robust and mechanical" vs. "electronic and witchcraft-y" you want it...and for how many systems you're trying to get it working for. I previously made these:
...which are compatible as:
Sega Genesis - 3 button controller (with Start button), which covers the Genesis, plus Atari 2600 0/1/2 button games and those that follow this standard as well as SMS, Commodore...plus others
as well as
Coleco ColecoVision - 2 button controller (no keypad)...only because a keypad is not required for the ColecoVision port of Gauntlet
This is done quite simply with a 10P10T indicating push-button switch (upper right corner of the control panel), a bunch of diodes, and a bit of extra wiring. This type of wiring concept can be repurposed for a more "general" controller (not Gauntlet themed as above), and I'm sure 7800 compatibility could be added too...probably would need a 2nd switch. Anything else/additional (Jaguar, etc.) is always possible...just adds even more to the price, and if the connector end is different than the standard 9-pin, multiple cables are required. Alternatively I'm sure this could all be done with some sort of micro controller or Arduino or the likes...but I like to keep it simple when possible, and steer clear of the electronic magic.
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On 9/12/2020 at 3:01 AM, socrates63 said:Enhanced Controller / Asteroids / qty 1
2 hours ago, Mr. John ColecoVision said:If we were on a previous list with TeamPixelBoy for the Asteroids controller and game, should we again list that interest here?
On the Ms Pac-Man, can pink and blue buttons with pink stick or knob be used?
With regards to the Asteroids controllers. The Asteroids controllers are to be released with, and when, Asteroids for the ColecoVision is released. Pixelboy and I worked out the details...and the "advertised/mentioned" price of $150 for this controller is with that group order...which greatly benefits from large quantity discounting, and shared shipping costs. With that said, I am not in control of when this software release will happen, so if anybody wants to get an Asteroids controller prior to this large group order/build for them, they can be made available, but would be at a price closer to $200-$225.
1 hour ago, Mr. John ColecoVision said:1- Pac-Man (Blue knob like Mousetrap w/yellow and blue buttons if possible)
1- Ms.Pac-Man (Pink knob / pink and blue buttons if possible)
1- Vanguard VVG Experience
Obviously any color of buttons and/or ball knobs are possible (as long as they're available), but they kind of take away from the game specific theme I've crafted for any of these themed controllers. If this is something you would really want, it can be done, but note that the manual included with the controllers will still feature a picture of the controller as I originally designed it.
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Last bump to gauge the current interest, for anybody looking to purchase any of my available custom controllers. See "interest check" topic:
...and post a reply in that topic...if interested in getting anything in the next month or 2.
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I've never seen (or heard of) such a thing. While I'm sure in the realm of the universe, and all of its endless possibilities, some active electronics pass-thru device could be created to do what you're talking about...but up until now, I've only ever seen myself and others, simply rewire Jaguar controllers, for use as ColecoVision controllers (which means they're no longer Jaugar controllers).
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I've posted an "interest check" topic in the Marketplace forums:
...for anybody interested in buying any of my custom controllers. Please read through that topic, and post any interest or questions there, regarding any of the controllers that I've built...and am currently offering.
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I am looking to gauge the current community interest, that anybody may have, in any of my "available" custom controllers...to see if there is warrant for a pre-order thread...for a large batch controller build phase. Say what...I know, right! Basically I'm saying, that I don't build customer requested, 1 off controllers, 1 at a time...and/or on demand; unless its a new design being commissioned that I'm interested in, or some other extraneous circumstance. I just don't have time for all that nonsense, plus all of the multiple shipping costs really add up when all applied to only 1 controller. So I prefer to build multiple controllers at once...in "large" batches. So, as there have been multiple people over the last few months, informally mentioning that they may have interest...I'm here, looking to do a more "formal" interest check.
With all that said...I'm not going to litter this topic with 50 pictures, of every controller I've ever made, with full detailed descriptions...the easiest thing to do, is to take a look at my website here:
...where, you can see my entire portfolio of work...and read the detailed specifications for each controller.
With that said, I am not refurbishing/modding any ColecoVision consoles, I am not building any themed Coleco ColecoVision Hand Controllers, and there are a few specific controller editions that were limited editions...and thus not available.
So currently no Coleco Hand Controllers will be offered...which include all of the following editions (of Hand Controllers):
Coleco Black, Coleco Silver, Carnival, Defender, Donkey Kong, Donkey Kong - Radar Scope Conversion, Donkey Kong Jr., Mouse Trap, Ms. Pac-Man, Ms. Pac-Man (b), Pac-Man, Pac-Man (b), Pac-Man Plus, Popeye, Venture, #2495 Display
Additionally, due to their limited edition status, there will be no more of the following controllers:
#2495 Display Edition - VVG Joystick Controller, #2495 Display Edition - VVG Enhanced Controller, Gauntlet Edition - VVG Experience Controller
So what does that leave as available...follow the link to my website listed above (or in my signature below) and find out. Realistically it means that everything else (which was not mentioned above, as "not available"), is, and can be available.
So for those that need a little more spoon feeding, most of the:
Joystick Controllers - HERE
Grip Controllers - HERE
Enhanced Controllers - HERE
Signature Controller - HERE
Experience Controllers - HERE
...can be available. Along with other controllers I've made for Atari, Nintendo and Sega consoles...which can also be available.
I don't have prices on my website, as A) its not a web-store, and B) many of my controllers are subject to "market-pricing" due to donor hardware. But to provide a little bit of guidance, here are a few pricing examples (assuming donor hardware hasn't radically changed):
2-Button VVG Joystick Controllers (not painted), like the Coleco Black or CollectorVision Phoenix editions are around $225.00
4-button VVG Joystick Controllers (not painted), like the Super Action (Orange), or Super Action (Red), are around $240.00
1-button or 2-button VVG Joystick Controllers, that are painted, like Donkey Kong, Donkey Kong Jr., Pac-Man or Ms. Pac-Man, are around $275.00
Coleco Edition - VVG Signature Controller is $500.00
So what I'm asking for here, is for anybody who is interested in getting any of my custom controllers in the upcoming and near future, to post a reply in this topic with what you're interested in (Editions/Models/Quantities), to see if there are enough people interested, to warrant a formal "pre-order" thread, and then a build phase to follow. If there is enough demand, then I will post a formal pre-order thread which will remain open for 2 weeks, after which, deposits of 50% or 100% (buyers choice) of the controller's price will be collected, then parts will be ordered, then controllers will be assembled, then buyers will be contacted to pay their shipping costs (and if applicable, the remainder of their controller balances), then the controllers would be shipped. Assume approximately 4-6 weeks from the start of a pre-order thread (with it's 2 week period included) to me starting to ship out completed controllers. As I have many different models, and they have varying sizes and weights...I can't give specific shipping costs, but if memory serves, smaller controllers, like the VVG Joystick Controllers are about $25-$35 shipped within the U.S., and around $50-$75 outside of the U.S...so you have some idea. Larger controllers, such as some of the Experience controllers are bigger and heavier, and would obviously cost more to ship.
So if you're interested in any of my custom controllers post a reply. If you're interested in the price of a specific controller that I haven't mentioned a price for above, post a question, and I'll provide a price. Or if you have any other questions...let me know.
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2 hours ago, ColecoKing said:No my bad, it was one of the controllers that still looked similar to a regular CV controller but had the red arcade knob.
Like these:
Yes...these are Coleco "Hand Controllers." These specific Pac-Man & Ms. Pac-Man editions were made years ago...as a 1 time build with only 14 pairs (and 1 single Pac-Man controller) made at that time...and no more will be produced. As as I previously mentioned, I won't be building any "Hand Controllers"...in this upcoming build period...or possibly ever.
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2 hours ago, ColecoKing said:I think it was the Pacman one but I'll double check.
This is my Pac-Man Edition - VVG Joystick Controller:
If it's the one you were thinking of, then you threw me off with your comment of it being red...granted it has a red ball knob, but with the overall housing yellow...I would have never thought you were talking about this one. But again, if so...it can be made available...at approximately $275 plus shipping. Again more details will be in my upcoming interest thread in the marketplace by this weekend.
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1 hour ago, ColecoKing said:Oh, I was more interested in those red joystick models I saw on earlier pages.
You would have to be a little more specific. I've made so many different ones at this point...they all kind of blur together. Normally when I post a new model, I name it as something like my Donkey Kong Edition - VVG Joystick Controller, or Coleco Edition - VVG Signature Controller, or some such similar. As long as it's not one of the #2495 Display Edition - Joystick Controllers or Enhanced Controllers, or Gauntlet Edition - VVG Experience Controller (all 3 of which, were limited editions), it should be available to offer...but again I would need to know which one you're talking about.
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CollectorVision Phoenix Release Thread
in CollectorVision
Posted · Edited by doubledown
Alternately, a similar purposed cable could be made as a direct "PS/2 to Coleco/Roller Controller 4-pin adapter" (requiring no ADAM accessory adapter), but this is just what I had lying around in parts so that I could build it up and test it right now. Simply cut the cord from a non-working ColecoVision or TI-99 power supply for the 4-pin end, and add a Mini-Din-6 connector to the other end. It addition to the "issue fixes", it also has the added benefit of negating the requirement for a Coleco power supply to power the Roller Controller...as it can power the Roller Controller directly from the front of Phoenix.