doubledown

AtariMax

The available Coleco Black Edition - VVG Standard Controller, unveiled/listed in post #396...has been sold.

So I decided to see what I could come up with, for a modestly-price (but not “cheap”) joystick controller for the ColecoVision…versus some of the over-the-top controllers I’ve been making as of late. Also, I had a few new hardware items I wanted to work on/with, which I incorporated here…so here it is, unveiling my: Coleco Black Edition – VVG Standard Controller: Here’s the “short & sweet” list of details: ** Hammond Mfg. 14” x 8” aluminum enclosure – unmodified (no additional bracing or fasteners, simply CNC machined for the installation of the controls) ** iL EuroJoystick 2, 8-way, black, bat-knob joystick, w/ Cherry micro-switches – modified (molded shaft shoulder cut 0.281” shorter, which lowers the overall height of the shaft/knob for better ergonomics when installed in a thin metal panel) ** iL PSL-L, concave push-buttons (2), dark gray, w/ Cherry micro-switches (75g) ** Custom-made 12-button keypad, w/ C&K key-switch buttons, (10) grey, (2) black, surrounded by a Coleco Hand Controller inspired CPO w/ button legends ** ColecoVision console inspired front face-plate artwork ** Custom-made 6’ cable Alternately, the standard joystick shaft w/ molded bat knob can be replaced with an iL threaded shaft (long) and ball knob, maintaining the same height…should you prefer: -or- the standard joystick shaft w/ molded bat knob can be replaced with an iL threaded shaft (short) and ball knob, lowering the height, similar to the Japanese joysticks…should you prefer: So that’s the “short & sweet” version of what I’ve made here (full details, in the “long version” below), and this one is currently available for sale: $155.00 (plus shipping) with the iL factory standard black bat knob -or- $165.00 (plus shipping) with an iL threaded shaft (long or short) and a 35mm black ball knob. So like I said, this one is for sale…just send me a PM if you’re interested, and this one is sold on a first come first serve basis. I ordered some fasteners today to finish the PCB mounting; the ones I had were a little too long. I should receive them in a couple days, meaning that this controller should/can be ready to ship by the end of this week. Now, for those interested in a little more detail, below is the “Long Version”: Enclosure: I selected Hammond Mfg.’s, 14” x 8”, aluminum sloped-topped enclosure, but in a cost saving effort I left the enclosure’s assembly / structure…as factory standard. So rather than increasing the size & quantity of the assembly fasteners, drilling & tapping new and existing holes, cutting / painting / and installing steel bracing (as I normally do with these enclosures), the enclosure is simply assembled how it was designed by the Hammond Mfg. engineers…with four (4) screws. When I first started using these enclosures I found a need to “beef” them up by adding a bit of strength, rigidity, and weight to their design; and while I will continue to “beef-up” these enclosures for my other models & editions, the purpose of this build, was to lower the overall cost. Joystick: Unless you opt for a no-name, knock-off joystick (sourced from ebay or Amazon) there really isn’t much cost to be saved in this department. The most common brand-name joystick models (i.e. from HAPP, iL, Sanwa, Seimitsu) are all mass-produced in such great quantities that they’re all reasonably priced in the $15 - $25 range. Granted, knock-off models can be had at closer to the $8 - $10 range, I was intent on building a “low-priced” controller…not a “cheap” controller. So I opted for the iL EuroJoystick 2 (w/ Cherry micro-switches) for this project, for a couple of reasons. One, it’s actually one of the least expensive brand-name joysticks on the market, at around $15; two, it’s probably the strongest and most robust joystick on the market; and three, in all honesty I really prefer it’s firmer spring-tension and feel over its Japanese counterparts. Now the one downfall of the iL, is the bat-topped handle…the only way it is sold, and with a height better suited when installed into a thick, wooden control panel. When installed into a thin metal panel, like in this enclosure, it’s a bit taller than it should be, ergonomically speaking. Normally I would simply install spacers between the underside of the panel and the joystick base to “drop-mount” it the depth that I wanted, but this enclosure doesn’t have enough depth to do this. So I realized that I could put the joystick handle in my lathe and cut a new higher shoulder on the molded shaft section, which allows me to lower the overall height of the handle for better ergonomics in these metal enclosures. Additionally, iL does sell threaded replacement shafts, at 2 different lengths, so if you prefer a ball knob (versus a bat knob), that is still an option; and it only adds about $10 to the cost (depending on the selected ball knob). Push-Buttons: The currently available push-buttons basically work out like the joysticks do. Brand-name versions are greatly massed-produced and reasonably inexpensive at around $3 a piece; and there are of course knock-offs available, which can be had for even a little bit cheaper. But again, as I was going for “low-priced”, and not “cheap”, so I selected iL PSL-L concave push-buttons, as I really prefer their vintage styled concave plungers (vs. the Japanese style convex plungers). I also opted for the upgraded Cherry micro-switches (75g), simply because they’re a better switch, and only about $1 more each, when purchasing them with the buttons. I had considered installing (4) push-buttons, versus the standard (2), but again looking to save costs I decided on the simple (2) button version. Plus when you look at the (7) games that require, or can make use of, the S.A. buttons…there’s not really much need for the (2) extra buttons. *Super Action Baseball, Football, and Soccer…all additionally require the “Speed Roller” for game-play. So even with the (2) extra buttons, they’re still not playable. *Spy Hunter and Star Trek: S.O.S…both offer play styles with (2) buttons plus keypad buttons, or (4) S.A. buttons…so the extra (2) buttons aren’t “required.” *Front Line…the left to right installation of the (4) S.A. buttons for right hand button manipulation, Y/O/P/B, causes a mismatch with the O/P buttons, where the left button...rotates right, and the right button...rotates left, causing a bit of confusion. Plus there are two homebrew ports which allow for game-play with only (2) buttons. *Rocky: Super Action Boxing…which leaves this as the (1) and only game, out of (7), which requires all (4) S.A. buttons, but doesn’t require the Speed Roller. As I’m not a great fan of this game, and I assume most aren’t either…I decided not to concern myself with it. Keypad: I tried something new here with the keypad. I’ve never been a huge fan of membrane switches. Granted, they are, completely functional; I simply prefer the actuation and feel, of a mechanical type push-button. Previously I’ve used a couple of different panel mount push-button switches to create my own keypads, but due to their sizes, prices, and/or color availability, I looked for something new for this project. I found these C&K thru-hole, key-switch buttons when researching a new option. As a thru-hole, PCB mount switch, they don’t simply install individually into holes in the control panel. They all have to be mounted to a PCB to create a “keypad assembly,” that is then mounted to the underside of the control panel, whereas the button caps slightly protrude through the panel’s surface. As a point of reference, they are basically the same concept as (and have a very similar feel to) the Reset button on the ColecoVision console itself. They have a short, snappy-ish, tactile feel, but not super-short, and not super-snappy feeling…again very satisfying, and similar to the CV’s Reset button. Then when I found out I could get them in grey and black to match the colors/look of the Hand Controller’s keypad…it seemed like a no-brainer. To finish off the keypad’s look, and to provide legends for the individual buttons, I created a Hand Controller inspired CPO to surround and identify them. So that's it, simple, efficient, and cost-effective.

Personally...I say "veto"...just my opinion. I think that the way the encoder based steering in Turbo works, is perfect, and it looks like it would work perfectly with the game-play in the above video. The only problem I have, lies in the light-weight home controller we got, known as the EM#2. I'm not saying it couldn't be done this proposed way, but it would be a bunch of trial and error probably, to determine how many encoder pulses, per pixels of on screen movement, would feel right...and then there is obviously no "spring-return-to center" in the EM#2 so you'd have to find center yourself. Again possibly do-able, but it wouldn't be my preference...just my 2 cents.

I agree, what they turned into in the end was a travesty (literally a cell phone, accessory, and power adapter store)...and what the name represents today, with a small pegboard section at stores like Hobby Town and their online presence, it was definitely sad for me to see them go. The biggest problem I have with them gone is little component availability time and shipping costs. I buy almost all of my electronic components from Mouser or Digi-Key, and can get them in 2 days, but with a shipping cost of $8. Not "ridiculous" in the grand scheme of things mind you, but if I need (5) $0.10 resistors, its hard to pay $8.00 for shipping...so I usually add stuff to my cart, and order when I've got enough stuff to justify the shipping.

Let us know when it's available to purchase and compatible with the ColecoVision! 😄

One of my favorite things about "the Shack", (as we use in the biz to call it), were the catalogs...specifically the old ones. Each store would obviously get cases of the new yearly catalogs that were at the store to give away or sold for a few bucks...and a couple of copies were always kept as "store copies" under the counter. Inherently, the new ones came in, and usually the last 1 or 2 years' catalogs were also still kept under the counter for customer reference when needed...trying to remember something that was previously sold or the likes. But every store would always have some old catalogs left over that somehow never got thrown away for some reason or another...so any given store may have 8-10 different years worth of catalogs in the back office just for fun (some 15-20 years old at this point in '94-'96). When helping out at another store when they were shorthanded, once you got in and got the store's layout figured out, (login password, POS cash drawer access, and the likes)...it was always, "ok, where's your stash of back catalogs" to see if they had any yearly editions you hadn't seen yet. It was a great time filler in between customer service, and stocking. I remember my store had 1 old catalog (don't remember the year, probably 1982, or 1983) that had the original Motorola DynaTAC (brick / Zack Morris style) "portable" cellular telephone when it first came out...and I remember that phone was like $4000...back then. I also remember in one of the catalogs at another store, probably from late 70's or early 80's, there was an 8-track adapter that would let you play your new-fangled cassette tapes on your car radio. Just like the ones from the early 90s that was a cassette tape you slid into your tape deck that had a wire that would connect to the headphone jack of your portable CD player, they made one way back for 8-track players to use with your portable cassette players. Plus there was always the early to late 80s catalogs with all of the Radio Shack / Tandy computers...and the ridiculous prices they were, for what they were, in comparison to what was new/available at that time. When I was working there, Tandy wasn't making/selling their own computers any more, we were selling the IBM Aptivas at the time. I remember the 2 models we stocked/sold, I want to say a 75Mhz and the better 100Mhz versions...both with Windows 95, and CD-Rom drives with full-motion "games", that only actually displayed in a small square in the middle of the 14" or 15" monitors. Good times!

I apologize if my post caused any offense...I was just simply stating my view of the ever changing state of the world and its technology, and the old adage of "out with the old, and in with the new." There are a lot of things, skills, and hobbies, that once were very prevalent, being discarded or forgotten...and to restate my point...it makes me sad. As a hardware aficionado, I appreciate actual consoles, actual media, and actual controllers that I can hold and/or manipulate with my hands...but that's what I grew up with. I am also a long time model builder...static plastic models when I was young, then into R/C cars when I got old enough...and I still build/race R/C cars to this day. Even in that hobby, the available products have shifted so much to "RTR" (ready-to-run) models, versus kits that you actually have to build. Heaven forbid you actually have to read the instructions and learn how to put something together yourself. Granted, I realize that you also need space, the time, and some tools to build model kits, and growing up with an active model building father (who himself also grew up building models), I had a bit of an unfair advantage in the arena. But it still makes me laugh when I happen to go to the local hobby store for parts, and I hear a customer who bought an expensive RTR car/boat/plane talking with a salesperson...and the conversation describes the instance that he took it out of the box, ran it one time, something failed or it crashed...and now he has no idea what to do with it because he didn't build it himself, and has absolutely no understanding of how it works. Radio Shack was also a big part of my life as a kid through into being a young man. Our first computer was a Tandy 1000EX, and 1 of the many local Radio Shack stores was about a 5 minute bike ride from my house, so I was in there all the time. Then once getting into electronics, again Radio Shack was there with any/all of the parts I ever needed. I even worked for Radio Shack back in '94-'96...when it was still a reasonably viable electronics store....with entire walls/gondolas of electronic components, replacement record player needles, CB radios, and all other kinds of neat stuff...although at that time period granted, most people coming in were buying batteries, cell phones, and satellite dishes...the old school products were still there, and a few old timers were regulars coming in once every week or two to shoot the breeze and pick up some parts. So again, if my post offended anybody, I apologize...but now, I see a car driving too fast down my street and I have to go yell at them!

Looking at the game-play video (and reading the game-play description), can anybody explain to me why the word "QUIZ" is in the title?

I can't express how much I want this comment to be a "just kidding" post! Do people (adults) seriously, and with regularity play games on their phones (or any other touch-screen device)? I'm sure kids do (fortunately I have no first hand knowledge of this), and when smart-phones first became a "thing" all those years ago, I remember getting a few games on my first smart phone...realized how bad they sucked (new made for smart-phone games, angry birds, tower defense games and the likes), and realized how unplayable vintage games are without a controller...swipe the screen to move...no thank you. This truly saddens me...and really makes me wonder what will happen to all of the "hardware" in the probably not-too-distant future. Obviously people can do whatever they like, play games however they like, I just find it really depressing to think of people playing games like Pac-Man or other vintage classics on a smart-device with a touch-screen. This now concludes the daily ranting of a crazy old man...now back to your regularly scheduled programming.

The Bump 'n' Jump controller came out exceptionally well, and it plays as good as it looks...it provides a very unique game-play feel. Additionally, building this one did provide some inspiration for a controller I've wanted to build for a while now. It will be "slightly different" form it's arcade counter-part due to the programming not being able to handle the proper controller, but it should simulate it very well. I'll have to order some parts and do some prototyping, but I think it will work out.

Bump ‘n’ Jump (or Burnin’ Rubber if you prefer) is an overhead-view racing game, created by Data East in 1982. The arcades of the day saw releases from both Data East and Bally/Midway, each noticeably different from each other regarding their respective cabinets’ artwork, but they did share the same hardware controls…(1) 8-way joystick, and (1) “Jump” button. Pushing the joystick up (away from you) will cause your car to accelerate, and pulling the joystick down (toward you) slows you down. To steer your car, simply manipulate the joystick left or right to avoid traffic, and/or dangerous obstacles. The reason for the use of an 8-way joystick (vs. that of a 4-way), is so that you can accelerate or brake whilst steering (and vice-versa). The “Jump” button allows your car to jump over (or onto) other cars, and over obstacles and water hazards…so long as you’re traveling at a speed greater than 100. A simple enough concept, an adorable graphical styling, and a super catchy background tune…all add up to make Bump ‘n’ Jump one fun arcade game. Fast forward 2 years, to 1984, and we got a wonderful port of Bump ‘n’ Jump for our beloved ColecoVisions and Coleco ADAMS. Obviously the stock Coleco Hand Controllers (as well as the Super Action Controllers) provide all of the necessary “controls” to play properly Bump ‘n’ Jump, but this port also allowed for the use of Coleco’s Expansion Module #2…presumably so that they could advertise an ever expanding library of compatible games to help boost it’s hardware sales. While I feel that the EM#2 could have been an OK control alternative, in practice I don’t like it. The insensitivity of the steering requires entirely too much effort, there is no speed coasting due to the EM#2’s gas pedal being a simple on/off switch, and attempting to manipulate the short nubby joystick up or down to act as your “Jump” button, I find just plain awkward. Fast forward 36 more years, to now…2020. The ColecoVision fan-base is strong, I apparently have a flair for the dramatic (and long-winded posts), and I obviously have an unwavering amount of talent & vision which allows me to create the greatest custom game controllers ever built…in my humble opinion of course. So while Bump ‘n’ Jump, is in fact, arcade-accurately playable with a simple 8-way joystick and a “Jump” button…I don’t love having my throttle and steering controls manipulated with a single input device, I would prefer them to be separate. But I also don’t like how the EM#2 controls work/react either…what to do, what to do!?! So I got to thinking, considering all of the different types of arcade hardware/controls ever made, and working within the limitations of the ColecoVision hardware, and considering the existing programming of the ColecoVision port of Bump ‘n’ Jump…how could I make it better? Let’s assume for a minute, that I was working for Data East or Bally/Midway back in ‘81/’82…what would I have proposed as a control-scheme & layout for this game? So unveiling my vision…my: Bump ‘n’ Jump – VVG Enhanced Controller: Let’s start with the artwork I guess. I chose Data East’s marquee artwork, simply because I liked it better than the Bally/Midway version, and the Data East Bump ‘n’ Jump title font is the same as what was used on the ColecoVision game packaging; Bally/Midway used a different font for their title art. Additionally as the DECO cabinets were conversion cabinets, their marquees often included the game info and points card on them, which all fits very nicely onto the front of this enclosure. For the Control Panel Overlay artwork however, I styled mine after the Bally/Midway CPO, the reason being, again, personal preference. As the DECO cabinets were conversion cabinets, their CPO artwork was usually generic, but since the Bally/Midway units were dedicated cabinets, they had specific artwork for the game. Now, as my control scheme and layout is radically different than its arcade counterpart, this means I couldn’t simply duplicate the existing artwork, but I did mimic it how and where I could. The colors, striping, and fields around the controls are all inspired by the original, and I’ve even included the titular racer, “Jumpin’ John” for good measure. Now…onto the parts that really matter… the controls. For the steering, I wanted to replace the mechanics of simply slapping a joystick left or right, but I didn’t want to use the encoder based steering of the EM#2 either (which would also cause the loss of speed coasting, and require a foot pedal). I decided I wanted something rotational, without getting too out of hand with custom parts, and while using components that still had some vintage arcade provenance. So how did I do it you ask? Well remember a couple months back, I got a hold of a few Bally/Midway Space Invaders & Galaxian cocktail cabinet control panels…both of which featured a 2-way “rotational” lever control. Using this vintage, Bally/Midway control hardware, I removed the 1.75” straight control lever, and found/bought/modified a 3-5/32” diameter, 3-spoked, black nylon (w/steel hub), industrial equipment hand-wheel, to use as my “steering wheel.” It seems a little small…and…how does it work…you may be thinking/wondering. So this 2-way controller allows for approximately 10 degrees of rotation each way off of center, before it hits its hard stops. It has approximately 3-5 degrees of dead-band before the contacts make, then, the remaining 5-7 degrees is contact & over-travel. My concept is that you manipulate the wheel as you would, say, a paddle controller. Your fingertips, friction grip the wheel around its outer edge, and you can easily twist it the few degrees necessary/allowable back and forth to control your steering… and due to its limited rotation, it allows for very quick directional changes. This hand-wheel I chose is available in a few different sizes, with this one being the smallest, and the one I found the most comfortable for how I wanted to handle/manipulate it. Alternatively, if you went with something really large, like the 8” version that is available, I’d be worried about the extra torque that could be generated, which maybe could/would damage the hardware underneath. So with the steering explained, how about acceleration and braking (the throttle controls) you ask. I knew I didn’t want a foot pedal (or pedals) for this one, so something like a 2-way vertical joystick could have been used. But then if I just used a simple 2-way joystick, how would you access the necessary “Jump” button at a moment’s notice? Enter the HAPP/iL - Up/Down, Turbo Handle Shifter, w/ thumb switch. This controller is currently made in about 5 or 6 variations…analog or digital, 1 switch or 2 (digital only), and latching (up or down) or spring-to-center. Because the game’s programming allows for speed coasting, you don’t need to constantly hold the throttle to maintain speed. Obviously the people at Data East were big fans of Newton’s first law of motion, which states that “an object in motion stays in motion with the same speed and in the same direction unless acted upon by an unbalanced force” (that high school physics class is finally starting to pay off). So once you reach any given speed you can let go of the throttle control, and your car will maintain that speed unless you bump into another car, or jump (as this causes a loss of speed). So because of this concept, I selected the spring-to-center version…which basically acts just like any other 2-way joystick...but it does so, with a super snazzy T-handle grip, and a thumb button. In this case, I’ve obviously wired the thumb button as the jump button, so that all of the game’s necessary controls are right in your hands. And I have to admit, throwing this throttle lever back and forth during game-play is incredibly satisfying! Additional controls include (2) HAPP micro-switch pushbuttons (white) as the P1/P2 start buttons, which are wired to keypad buttons 1/2/3/4 & 5/6/7/8 respectively, through a 4-position, 2-pole rotary switch, which allows for Player/Difficulty game menu selections. Also (2) Switchcraft pushbuttons (black) are installed as a “Start” button (wired to keypad button 1, which selects the Standard Hand Controller option at the initial menu), and the other, as a “Menu” button (wired to the keypad button #) to return you to the Player/Difficulty selection menu after your game is over. So there you have it, my vision of what the Bump ‘n’ Jump control scheme “could have been.” Also, as this controller does in fact feature Up/Down/Left/Right & Left Fire button controls, plus keypad buttons 1/2/3/4/5/6/7/8/#, it can be used for many games other than just Bump ‘n’ Jump. It also works great for Up ‘n Down and Road Fighter, plus it’s technically compatible with a substantial number of games from the ColecoVision library. I was just playing Pitfall and Donkey Kong with it a little earlier. And granted, while probably not my “go-to” controller for either Pitfall or Donkey Kong, after a few quick deaths, the controls were second nature and definitely playable. Feel free to dream about this fabulous controller the next time you’re playing Bump ‘n’ Jump with a Hand Controller, or even worse, the EM#2!

I think it came out pretty snazzy: I actually sold this one a little while back to finance a few other controllers I wanted to build...and I'll make myself a replacement here at some point, along with a dual-wired, twin-stick, pro-controller with rapid fire that I'm planning.

Yeah, my thought was 10 people would be the absolute minimum...and obviously with more people...it's even less per person. The simple raffle idea isn't anything set in stone...it was just a "get the ball rolling" idea/possibility. I remember we did a contest years back, where it was a Rock-Paper-Scissors bracketed-tournament, for how we chose/determined the winner. I wouldn't want to do any sort of contest like high-score, or guess the number closest type concept. The video drawing (if a simple raffle) is a good idea though, and I completely understand the reasoning, although admittedly I probably wouldn't have thought of it. But I also never shoot video of anything...no YouTube, Snapchat, Tik-Tok, FaceTime, or any of the millions of other apps out that people who need attention use for this old man. We'll just have to wait and see if there is enough interest, or any other better ideas.

Agreed...too bad most will probably convert the RGB to HDMI (or similar) and display it on a modern LCD/LED screen...which while "fine"...doesn't look anywhere near as good or authentic as a CRT does, especially with vintage pixel based games. Watch the price of RGB broadcast monitors skyrocket now too...even more than they already have in recent years.

I definitely don't remember playing it that way...but I know you're right, and that's also how the 2600 & 8-bits were programmed too. I also made a Spy Hunter controller for those:

I don't have any problem playing Spy Hunter: Seriously though...most of my BITD Spy Hunter playing was done on an C-64...that only has a 1 button joystick. If I'm not mistaken, the <space bar> was used for secondary weapons. Obviously Spy Hunter is 100% playable with the standard hand controllers, but as mentioned, fumbling to find a "keypad button" when you want it, can be a little clunky. Obviously the SACs were much better suited for Spy Hunter due to the 4 necessary buttons being right at your fingertips. In all honesty, I don't know if I've ever tried to play Spy Hunter with a standard hand controller. Before I built the controller pictured above, I would just use my Jaguar ProPad to CV/SA controller, and before I built that, I would just use a SAC.

Isn't the AimTrak a "Wii-mote"-esque gun (aiming device w/ tracking bar), type concept? Could be interesting...maybe we can finally get a CV port of Atari's excellent Barnyard Blaster!!! 😄

That's a funny looking UZI...it's supposed to look like this:

For those interested...with regards to my recently created "Coleco Edition - VVG Signature Controller": I have had a couple of people contact me about this controller regarding it's availability (will it be sold, will it be limited edition), and it's price. To answer these here...yes; it will be sold/offered...no; it will not be a "limited edition"...and the price is; $500.00 (plus shipping). Obviously, it is expensive (but that's kind of what I do), and believe me it was expensive to build. The joystick (with it's required control board, and shipping from the U.K.) alone, costs me $85, and it takes more than 10 or hours to machine, assemble, wire and test. With all that said, and before anybody asks, no it cannot be customized...this is my "Signature" controller...built how I wanted it, decked out with the features and options I wanted it to have, and representing my brand. If you want a different color or shape of joystick knob, fine replace it yourself after you buy one. If you want different color buttons, fine replace them yourself after you buy one. Regarding this particular controller, I've adopted Henry Ford's 1909 statement that "Any customer can have a car painted any colour that he wants so long as it is black." I do plan to add an additional artwork "face-plate" to the front of it it (to the left of the battery tray), with it's model name, my logo, and the likes...I just haven't had time recently to finish it up. And as I've done with my other "large" controllers, each controller will be individually serialized, and paired with a matching serialized instruction manual. With all that said, no I'm not currently taking pre-orders, but I did have an idea...if there is enough interest. So I am keeping the **PROTOTYPE** serial numbered controller as mine, and I've already built the 001 serial numbered controller; I'm just waiting for the D41X micro-switches for the push-buttons so that I can finish up the last bit of wiring. So my idea...was for something along the lines of a raffle for this one (the 001)...again if there is enough interest. My thought was, the controller is $500, divide that by the number of "tickets" sold, and that is the price per ticket. So if 10 people were interested, each "ticket" would be $50, and you would have a 1-in-10 chance of winning. If 50 people were interested, each "ticket" would be $10, and you would have a 1-in-50 chance of winning. After some period of offer/interest time, say 1 or 2 weeks, the "ticket" price would be determined (based on the number of people), payments requested/received, and then the winner's name would be drawn and announced. I honestly thought of this, as a way that someone who maybe couldn't normally afford a controller like this, would have an opportunity to win one. And again...I'm not interested in selling an unlimited number tickets at a fixed price where I make an exponential amount of money for this one controller, it would still be "sold" at it's $500 price, just funded by a group of people, and won by one lucky person. Perhaps if it's popular enough, it could be done again. So nothing official regarding this yet (I would create a separate post if moving forward with this "raffle" idea), I just wanted to gauge the interest in this idea/concept, and/or consider any other alternative thoughts or ideas that anybody else had regarding something like this. Let me know.

Blasphemy! If they were really "ColecoVision fans" they would own at minimum, 2 hand controllers, 2 Super Action Controllers, 1 Roller Controller, and 1 Expansion Module #2. 😁 People make me sad.

I find it crazy to believe, that literally, the 1 arcade port in the ColecoVision library that makes proper use of the Roller Controller, and is "arcade accurate" when using a Roller Controller (track-ball), was reprogrammed for use with a Hand Controller. Granted I honestly don't care much for this particular game, but still, I have to respect it because of the hardware choice.

My guess is "The Wizard of ID's - Wiz Math 2: The Quadratic Equation"

I can also confirm these 3 working on mine too.

That's a time-out mister! Wait 'till your father gets home! You're gonna get it then! 😄