doubledown

You lost me on most this unfortunately...but I'm an old man (43) who doesn't work with, or deal with, any of the Pi/Arduino products, and about the only thing I know about either of them is their names, and of their existence. I have seen where there has been some work done for the 5200 using some sort of mapping concept...where when you press and hold "this button" on say a Genesis controller, then these buttons represent these 5200 buttons, but when you press and hold "this other button", then those buttons now represent these other 5200 buttons...and so on, and so on, for functionality purposes to get "all of the buttons" with a controller that has significantly less physical buttons. While this "concept/theory" can work, I guess...its nothing I would settle for (personal opinion). If the controller needs to have a joystick, 2 buttons, and 12 keypad buttons...then it better have them...on that controller. Not mapped as alternates, and certainly not on a separate box/dongle plugged in, in series or tandem, on an adapter separately wired 5' away from me. Again, just my opinion...but I'm sure there are plenty of others who don't share this opinion...this is obviously the case with the 5200 fan base, where the idea of using an $8 3rd-party, Chinese-made, Genesis pad clone, with a $15 exposed PCB adapter, and requiring a "S/P/R & keypad functioning CX-52," all used in concert is the greatest thing since sliced bread, for maximum 5200 game-play enjoyment. There are, and will always be, those looking for lower cost alternatives/solutions (no matter of the aesthetics, or "function" caveats), those that want the best of the best, and those in the middle. If it's something that can be made...and that can "work" (definition of "work" to be supplied by those who accept the final result) then there will be a market for it. Again, all 1 opinion of an old man!

There are seemingly less soldered controllers out there, than there are crimped/edge connector controllers (with regards to the cable connection), but I come across them every now and then. I've never bothered to look at the board Rev. to be able to tell you if they were early, middle, or late variants.

No eating or drinking near the controllers, and wash all of the boogers, peanut butter & jelly, and pizza grease off your hands before you touch them! True story, I remember as a kid, a pair of sisters/babysitters that we had for a while, had a computer or gaming system of some kind (I was too young to know what it was) in their basement rec room, and their parents' rule was no food or drink near the machine...for obvious reasons. So sure enough, one them, at some point, going against the rules...spilled pop all over the machine or keyboard or some such. I remember when we got our Tandy 1000EX we had the no food/drink rule for a while...but obviously we all know how that goes. I can say that I never spilled anything onto or into mine...or rest assured, I would still be feeling that spanking to this day, I'm sure.

That's correct...some controllers have the crimped-on connectors that slide on to the board edge connectors of the PCB, and some controllers have bare wires that are installed through holes in the PCB, soldered, and "supported" with hot glue. Then there is the concern of the keypad. A single sided, 90 degree, edge connector is soldered to the PCB, and the very flexible plastic membrane of the keypad (with conductive traces) is slid into it. This membrane can be pulled out of this edge connector very easily, but without the proper tools, can be difficult to slide back in...due to its flexibility.

So to understand you correctly...this board would allow the use of "modern" Bluetooth, and/or USB controllers to be used with the ColecoVision? Is there an existing Bluetooth/USB controller that has a 12 button keypad (in addition to the 8-way directional control, plus 2 independent fire buttons) that are required for full functionality with the ColecoVision? Where would this board get its power from?

I developed my love for, and honed my skills at Galaga at a Pizza Hut! Back when restaurants had "Smoking" and "Non-Smoking" sections right next to each other with no physical barriers/dividers of any kind. Good times...god times!

Clicky, short throw, tactile buttons, "feeling" like those found on "old-school" flip phones? My opinion is that I wouldn't care for them, especially for the Right & Left fire buttons.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but use of a MasterPlay with the 5200, makes use of a "master" 5200 controller (for S/P/R and keypad functions, plus possibly analog centering values), and a "slave" 9-pin digital controller for game-play directional control and at minimum 1 fire button. So with that in mind, do you see these as the 5200 "master" controller or the "slave" digital controller?

I'm just waiting on new software! 😋 With that being said...I've been immensely enjoying mine... ...with other existing softwares!

Well there was a lot of progress with my upcoming Bump 'N Jump controller this weekend. I spent most of Saturday with the engineering, the controls layout, and drawing the artwork...which came out beautifully. Due to my unique control-scheme for this one (when compared to the original arcade cabinet), I couldn't simply duplicate the original arcade CPO. But, I was able to replicate the overall look and re-use some of the original elements (and colors) so that it's look & theme is unmistakably "Bump 'N Jump." I machined the enclosure today, and also got all of the artwork printed/laminated/trimmed, then applied, and cut out for all of the hardware. I had almost everything I needed for this one except for a few push-buttons, and one more special part for the controls. I'll get everything else I'm missing ordered tomorrow...and fingers crossed I'll have this one finished up and unveiled some time this week. I really think it's going to be very surprising & shocking when you see it...I'm very excited for this one. Stay tuned!

If you don't know already...Arcade Shop has reproduced these buttons and cones/bezels...if yours are the non-illuminated versions, and you want the illuminated versions: HERE I used them on my Mouse Trap controller (with the silver cones/bezels):

Also...as Pac-Man was installed with a vertical monitor...will it be sideways unless you physically rotate your screen? And don't forget...there is only 1 acceptable joystick to play Pac-Man with:

The schematic for Kangaroo indicates that the P1/P2 start volcano buttons are the non-illuminated variety. So you would need to #1, swap those out with the illuminated type, and then #2 figure out how you wanted them to illuminate (and how to power & control them). Either on, all the time (easiest), or on, only when "credits" are present...I remember some other Atari games (Super Breakout I believe...and others) did this. On all the time would be the easiest, obviously, as they only need constant 5VDC to power them. To illuminate them only when "credits" are present, that may be significantly more difficult. The Atari games that did this, would have had programmed logic to control this, as well as dedicated outputs at the PCB to wire them to. If none of this exists on the Kangaroo boards, you'd have to get a bit creative.

Well I found, and worked out a deal for the "unique" arcade control I'll need for this Bump 'N Jump controller. Amazingly it is local too, so hopefully I'll be able to pick it up here in the next day or two so I can start looking at sizing/installation and the likes. And a guy over at the KLOV forums was able to get me large, "pretty clean" pictures of the CPO artwork for its use. If I can use them, it'll save me the $40+ of purchasing a reproduction CPO and scanning it myself. Out of curiosity, does anybody have a Road Fighter manual they could send me images of? Obviously I'm not looking for this to make copies or any such nonsense. I'm just looking for verification of any controls/buttons/keypad keys necessary for this game to verify or discount it's compatibility with this possible controller.

There should be plenty available on ebay, it was an off the shelf part. That's always where I got them from when I needed them, along with 9918s as well. I probably still have tubes of each, plus all of the other ColecoVision ICs laying around in a box somewhere. Even if's it's soldered in place, cut and/or de-solder the old one, install a socket and then your new chip.

It definitely won't be as "over the top" as Spy Hunter...but it doesn't need to be...but I think it will be pretty cool never the less. It should also work well for Up 'n Down, and possibly Road Fighter, although I would need to examine the necessary controls for Road Fighter to verify this.

So a few days ago in the "ColecoVision Prototype Consoles" post/thread...there was mention/proof that the Expansion Module #2 was additionally planned to be sold/packaged with Bump 'N Jump, as an alternate to the Turbo pack-in. This lead to some discussion regarding the controls of the game, namely how the ColecoVision port can make use of the EM#2 (or Hand Controller or SAC), whereas the arcade cabinets (DECO & Bally/Midway) officially used an 8-way joystick plus a "Jump" button. So for the sake of trying it, I tried Bump 'N Jump with the EM#2...and really don't care for it. The steering's insensitivity/unresponsiveness is not to my liking at all for this game. Technically, and with 100% arcade accuracy...my Gaplus controller (in post #358 above), if it were wired for the ColecoVision...and had different artwork and button colors...would be an arcade accurate, Bump 'N Jump - VVG Experience Controller...as that controller uses the exact same Bally/Midway, 8-way leaf-switch joystick, that was common to those 2 games, along with a couple of others, including Bosconian and Gorf (Cocktail). But regardless, the discussion got me thinking, and I had an idea for a pretty radical Bump 'N Jump - VVG Enhanced Controller...using an arcade controller type that I haven't used yet. So while it won't be arcade accurate (again that would be my Gaplus controller with different artwork), it will be, I think, a cool, and very unique hardware control scheme alternative for Bump 'N Jump (and possibly a few other games). I've still got a few things to work on / figure out for this one, but hopefully I'll have something to show you all soon.

I love in the Atari response commercial, when showing off the 5200, they compare the awesome 5200 Pac-Man, to the pathetic "ColecoVision" Pac-Man...which is in fact the their own Atari 2600 Pac-Man played through the Atari Expansion Module...though they don't mention this!

I'll send you a PM...we can discuss further.

I agree and completely understand. It could also be "reasonably" priced (all relative obviously) too if there wasn't anything crazy added to it, and no overly expensive components were selected for it's build. It could either be squeezed into a 14" x 8" enclosure (maybe/possibly), or more appropriately installed into a 17" x 11" or 20" x 11" housing (larger enclosure would allow for larger, easier to slap buttons). The joystick component would be in the $20-ish range...assuming some modern available 8-way joystick (ball-top or bat-top), then 11-ish buttons of size(s)/color(s) TBD, which are normally only a few dollars each...wired to a Hand Controller PCB, plus a custom cable...and of course artwork and time. Luc...I assume you're calling "dibs" on this one!?! 😁

I did a little "pricing research" for a potential WarGames controller today...and that could/would be one seriously expensive controller if made as a full-fledged Experience Controller with large square illuminated push-buttons. So much so, that I'm not sure at this point that I would create/make that one...unless it was commissioned, and basically pre-sold before I made it. To order the (7) large square illuminated push-buttons, (3) rectangular illuminated push-buttons, and the LED bulbs to replace the standard incandescent bulbs, would be in the neighborhood of $150.00...my cost. Then another $40 for the battery pack/tray, and an NKK switch as the power toggling switch, to power the LEDs. None of which includes the housing (or housing(s) if done really fancy), the joystick, any other buttons and/or switches necessary, artwork, wiring...and the inevitable machining and assembly time. I could probably find my way to make/create what I would consider to be an Enhanced Controller version...using the Sanwa 24mm square (non-illuminated) push-buttons I used in my Star Cursor controller versus the large HAPP buttons, which also eliminates the need for any power. I'll have to think about it a little more.

Yeah I'm not sure how much luck you're going to have finding something like that.

Correct, direct PDF link HERE Manual page 5-3 (PDF page 28/83) (for upright) Item 5, second line - 0017-00003-0259, 6" x 9" SPEAKER - 8OHM, 7W. Manual page 5-7 (PDF page 32/83) (for cocktail) Item 9, second line - 0017-00003-0187, 6" x 9" SPEAKER - 8OHM, 9W.

I had a read-through of the Dam Busters manual this morning...what an incredibly complicated game! I found out there is an instance when both Left and Right fire buttons are required. When on the 1st Engineering screen, if you wish to adjust all 4 Throttles, or all 4 Boosters simultaneously, you need to select a specific one (first Throttle, or last Booster), then press both side buttons and manipulate the joystick to adjust. So I could definitely envision having these 2 buttons on the right side of the controller for this purpose.

I played a few minutes earlier, and when at the Gunner positions you need to manipulate the joystick to aim, and press the Left fire button to shoot. So it would either need to be a pistol grip (with trigger), or top fire style joystick...or the fire / action button should probably be on the right side for use with your right hand. Then if moved, your left wrist wouldn't be resting on top of them while manipulating the joystick. Again...I would really need to sit down and read the manual to figure out how to play this game.