doubledown

I really like how this one came out too. The green Samducksa 16mm buttons I used for the keypad were a great find for this particular controller. The joystick & keypad button "greens" don't match perfectly (2 different companies), but I think they're close enough. To use this 14" enclosure I had to find keypad buttons smaller than the 24mm ones I've used previously, and I ran across these when I was placing the order for the blue iL push-buttons. They have a nice feel, and unlike most buttons this size, have a very low-profile black plunger flange. You probably can't tell from the picture, but the black square surrounding the keypad buttons (semi-simulating the keypad area of the ColecoVision hand controllers), does have legends identifying each button (it's a fairly small font, with green text), in case you've never used a telephone and don't know what the button layout is. I think that the "vibrant" Frogger logo looks great too...and who wouldn't love that tire tread!

Well not Spy Hunter...yet...but unveiling my - Frogger Edition - VVG Enhanced Controller: So I came across this green MCA Australia joystick a little while back and thought man...that would be perfect for a Frogger controller...even though it's not technically arcade accurate (the arcade cabinets used a red ball-knob, skinny shaft Wico joystick). But I liked it, and I got it for a "decent" price, so I started looking into the other components for this controller, and tried to determine exactly what I was going to do with it. I decided to build this into a Frogger "themed" Enhanced controller with universal ColecoVision compatibility, versus a Frogger "only" Experience controller, which obviously wouldn't have a keypad, or buttons. The details are as follows: *Hammond Mfg, 14.00" x 8.25" aluminum enclosure (reinforced and weighted) *MCA Australia green ball-knob, Cherry micro-switch joystick, w/ 8/4/2-way restrictor (currently set up as a 4-way...for obvious reasons) *iL PSL-L concave blue push-buttons (2) (blue, matching the P1 & P2 start buttons from the original arcade cabinet), with Cherry micro-switches (wired as Left & Right ColecoVision buttons...not necessary for Frogger, but again for mass game compatibility) *Samducksa/Crown 16mm green push-buttons (12) (wired as the ColecoVision keypad buttons) *Custom CPO artwork copied from the original arcade cabinet I really like the green joystick...those Australians knew what they were doing! Enjoy, and let me know what you think.

And isn't the ROM openly available...or at least available via the club membership...for use on the Phoenix, or the AtariMax carts?

...and as @sramirez2008 indicated...a great candidate for a twin-stick controller...like this: 😁 (not thread-jacking or antagonizing...just having some fun) ...but with different artwork obviously Of course however its programmed, a twin stick controller can be always made (and probably will be...wink, wink). But it would definitely be easier and less expensive to build a twin-stick, if as Eduardo mentions, it uses the extra buttons from only 1 controller. I could imagine though, how others may simply want to use 2 CV Hand Controllers they already own, strapped down to a plank of wood, for a "budget friendly" twin-stick controller, but Eduardo...you have my absolute blessing to use the extra buttons from 1 controller for this! 😉 Again, note...this is all in fun. But seriously, if Crazy Climber becomes available...there will be a Twin-Stick controller for it...mark my words. 😄 While you're at it...lets see Robotron: 2084, Space Dungeon, and Black Widow for the ColecoVision! Let the good times roll!

Goes for any arcade machine really, my Turbo machine has 2 speakers plus a woofer. Arcade games were meant to be loud and create an experience. Then place that 1 game in a room with 50+ other games and see how loud and awesome it is. The clicky "annoyance", that trouble's most people with regards to micro-switches, is only audible when they don't play with the game volume turned up loud enough.

Could you imagine how loud it would be playing Robotron: 2084 with 2 micro-switch joysticks!?! Fortunately Eugene Jarvis, and the good people at Williams Electronics, realized that this would be a disaster, and installed WICOs. 😉

Wow...hard to believe 2+ people can't agree on one simple thing like leaf-switches vs. micro-switches!!! 🤣 Who knew that this was such a controversial topic!?! Personally I can deal with either, and when applicable (especially when building an Experience Controller), I try to use whatever the "original" specified controller was, chosen by the developer and/or publisher, who knew the proper way to play their game! Its not my place to tell others how wrong they are, or how ridiculous their opinions are whey they differ from mine! 😁 And in all seriousness, I really can use either switch style, but when regarding micro-switch joysticks...I definitely prefer some of the vintage sticks from HAPP, Coin Controls, and/or MCA, or modern iL EuroJoystick 2s...a lot more than the Japanese Sanwa, and/or Seimitsu sticks. Don't get me wrong, these sticks are fine too. I've used them previously, but for older style games, I like the stiffer feel of the "American/Western" micro-switch joysticks, vs. the looser Japanese Candy Cabinet variants.

Couldn't you take a 1/8" stereo cable out of the Lynx headphone jack to the 1/8" audio input jack usually near the VGA port of modern TVs with this feature/option to get sound through the TV?

...clearly, and in some instances (see post #1) an LED and a 3rd resistor! 😁

Thanks. It feels and plays really well. It's new owner was over last night and we were play testing it for a while. Side note...I did score a deal for an original Commando arcade joystick last night, so I'll just need to order a housing and (1) green button and (1) white button and I'll be able to make "my" Commando Edition 7800 joystick controller. I started on the artwork last night, it should be pretty easy to finish up. The one huge benefit of 7800 controllers is their simplicity...no keypads, no analog/digital controls...a simple joystick and 2 buttons.

I completely understand your thoughts, and obviously if you were to ask 2 different people for their opinions on anything, you will get at least 3 different answers. 😄 And you will never be able to satisfy 1% of the people, 100% of the time 😄 I can honestly say, that size, with regards to "space-savings", has never been even a consideration, with any of the controllers that I've built. If I'm playing an actual 300+ pound arcade cabinet, most of the time I'm monkey-fisting the joystick, and palm/wrist support isn't that important, nor is there any worry of the cabinet shaking/moving about when I move the joystick. But when a "small" joystick controller is in my lap, or on a tabletop in front of me, I want to be able to fully rest my palms/wrists on the controller surface for support/comfort, plus to act as added weight to hold the controller from moving around when manipulating the joystick. For this to happen with my normal adult sized hands (I cannot palm a basketball, as a size reference), the joystick center needs to be in >/= 4" from the left edge, and up >/= 5" from the bottom edge, the main index finger operated button needs to be in >/= 6" from the right edge, and 0.0" to +1.0" above the center-line of the joystick in the Y axis, with a maximum button separation of 1.40", center-to-center. As always this is all personal preference, but this is my defacto standard that I use. I occasionally cheat these numbers a little bit when necessary, or if I'm using a donor controller housing that can't/won't allow for this. But over the years I've bought or used joystick/arcade controllers that don't conform to anything near this, whereas the joystick is too close to the side or bottom edges, or the button spacing is something crazy like 1.5" or more, and I just don't like them. Don't get me wrong, they're obviously usable/functionable...just not by me. I know lots of people use, or have used, the Radica S.I. PnP sticks for their 7800, but I personally shutter when I look at how small they are. Again, personal preference, entitled to personal opinion...blah, blah, blah...just my 3 cents. I've started the hunt for an original Coin Controls, 8-way, leaf-switch, joystick (the original used in the Commando arcade cabinets) so we'll have to wait and see how that turns out. I don't think I would do a Crossbow themed controller, simply due to the fact that the arcade cabinet used a Light-Crossbow as it's controller, not a joystick. I realize that the 7800 port can use a joystick as an alternative, but it's just not arcade correct. Plus I have very fond childhood memories of playing Commando, and I don't know that I've ever played Crossbow.

Thanks for the feedback. I figured as I was trying to replicate the looks of the console, and the front ports/switches are part of the console...I'd try to add them in if possible. In real life these console parts are black on black plastics, with the silver pins in the controller ports. So drawing them in 2D, with varying shades of black can only be so realistic, but I will say that the details look better in person, versus an on-screen picture. I had momentarily considered installing real physical controller ports and selector switches (non-functional, obviously) for the "authentic" look, but the added parts cost and installation time didn't seem worth it. In all honesty, I think my favorite part is the functioning power LED. The cord cleats are pretty inexpensive, it just takes a little added time for their installation, but it is nice for convenience-sake. This is the first time I've used this small 14.00" x 8.25" enclosure for a "joystick" controller. I've used it a few times before for a pair of, all-button Asteroids controllers, and a few Bally/Midway cocktail: Space Invaders & Galaxian 2-way lever controllers. It's a decent/ergonomic size for a single joystick, and 1 hand worth of buttons, but at this point I think I'm so use to the larger 17.00" x 11.25", and 20.00" x 11.25" enclosures that I have been using, that it will take a little time to get use to. I'm thinking about making an arcade game themed controller for the 7800...just trying to decide on the game...currently I'm thinking Commando.

Well a couple of weeks ago, a friend (and fellow AA member) was over one night, and we were hanging out and playing some games. Then we got into talking about controllers in general, and then more specifically, controllers for the 7800. Thus far I’ve made a 2600 themed controller, into which I installed 2 buttons wired for the 7800 (for the additional 7800 compatibility), and then I built my 8-bit / 7800 compatible Robotron: 2084 controller, but I hadn’t yet made a “basic” or “themed” controller dedicated for the 7800. So we started talking about some ideas, and I grabbed some hardware I had around for a few other projects to see what we liked the feel of, and what would fit into the enclosure we were going to use. Then I pulled out one of my 7800 consoles, and bam…like a bolt of lightning, the idea was right in front of our faces. So after a bit of artwork design, the ordering and inevitable waiting for parts, a bit of machining, and then assembly & wiring…I’d like to unveil my: 7800 WICO Edition – VVG Enhanced Controller: Once I pulled out the 7800 console and realized just how similar its shape, size, color, and texture were to that of the joystick’s soon-to-be enclosure, it seemed like a no-brainer to attempt to replicate the console’s look. So “cosmetically”, I reproduced the look of the 7800 console by drawing & applying CPOs of the “Atari/Fuji logo & rainbow” plate, the glossy black 4 button & power LED bar, as well as the front controller port & selector switch face. I intentionally left the majority of the control surface uncovered, as the enclosure’s factory, textured black finish, is a near perfect match to that of the original 7800 console. Oh yeah…and the “simulated” power LED on the controller is in fact a real LED that lights up when the console is turned on: Now let’s talk hardware. We chose a Hammond Mfg, 14.00” x 8.25” aluminum, sloped-top enclosure. Which, as always, I reinforced with additional/internal steel angle bracing to provide the rigidity (and a nice little bit of extra weight) that the factory-designed enclosure is severely lacking in. Additionally, as per my usual, the factory assembly hardware and adhesive feet were disposed of immediately, and I installed larger and additional fasteners, again, for the benefit of the enclosure’s rigidity. Then I installed mechanically fastened, soft rubber feet, so that there’s no worry of adhesive failure or softening over time, which could result in the loss of the feet off of the bottom. I custom crimp my own 9-pin controller cables so that I can make them any length I want (within the limit of the 500’ spool). Plus the cable itself, and the connector parts that I use, are of a lot higher quality than what’s used on modern 9-pin extension cables available at your local ebay. In this instance, I wired a 10’ controller cable, and I installed 2 cord cleats on the rear of the enclosure, so that the cord can be neatly wrapped up for storage. Now lastly, and probably most importantly…on to the controls. There are lots of options for joysticks and push-buttons on the market today. Ranging from your cheap-o knock-offs available on Amazon and ebay (which can work for the budget-minded), Japanese & Korean controls which are great for modern SHMUPS and fighting games (and when mounting depth is a concern), America-style controls from manufacturers like HAPP and iL, and then there’s the option of vintage controls. Back in the original era of the 7800, and especially a few years before from whence several of its arcade ports were actually spawned, the WICO leaf-switch joysticks were extremely popular, and were used by loads of arcade game manufacturers. Fortunately, due to their desirability, the WICO sticks are currently being reproduced by Arcade Shop for people who want that original arcade/WICO feel. So for this project we chose a 3.5”, 8-way, black ball-knob, WICO leaf-switch joystick, which due to it’s mounting depth, just fits into this housing. We selected the black ball-knob, versus WICO’s signature red ball-knob, to better match the knob found on the Atari ProLine joystick…as this is a 7800 themed controller after all. Then for arcade/era correctness we went with (2) orange, concave plunger, 4-piece, leaf-switch push-buttons, also available from Arcade Shop…as using micro-switch or key-switch style push-buttons, with a leaf-switch joystick, would just be flat-out wrong. There are 2 basic styles currently available for leaf-switch arcade push-buttons. A few places offer a “leaf-switch” option/modification for use with their standard long plunger, micro-switch push-buttons. I’ve used them, they’re fine, there is nothing wrong with them, but due to the heavier plunger spring used in these push-buttons, they don’t feel quite like the old-style 4-piece push-buttons do, and they can't be adjusted for length of travel, or for trip-wire sensitivity like the old-style 4-piece buttons can. So the other option is to buy the original 4-piece style, which is what we went with for this project. They cost about $8 more per button, but with only 2 buttons on this controller, it seemed like the right way to go. So there you have it, my take on an arcade-quality, era-correct, Atari 7800 joystick controller. Alternatively, if you are one who prefers the tactile and auditory experience of micro-switch based controls, the WICO joystick and leaf-switch push-buttons could probably be substituted with an iL EuroJoystick 2 (with bat-top or ball-knob), and iL PSL-L concave plunger push-buttons, all with Cherry micro-switches…but I would need to verify the mounting depth of the iL joystick first. Enjoy!

The Tutankham controller can be available for purchase, but first I need to sit down and figure out it's cost/price. The only potential "issue" with making more of them is the availability of the 2-way WICO joystick...I was able to purchase this one as NOS. Everything else in the assembly is available as new, but the 2-way joysticks are not currently available/reproduced, so it's a matter of tracking down another/more of these originals. But I'm sure they can be had on the used market, it would create a small fluctuation in the controllers overall cost due to the "market price" of this part.

Everythings for sale, but be forewarned, this is the 2nd or 3rd most expensive controller I've built thus far. Send me a PM if you're interested. Someones got to do it! 😁 And thanks.

WarGames is a solid game. I haven't played it a ton, partly I believe due to the heavy use of keypad buttons, vs a proper controller...which is obvously what sparked my idea for making a Experience Controller for this one. It's in the queue...believe me. Thanks for the reminder. I had to run to Menards today to pick up some steel angle (I use for internal enclosure bracing), and I saw your post before I went, which reminded me to pick up the threaded rod that I need to built a support stand to be able to paint this enclosure. So I picked that up, and after work, I'll figure out how to make a frame for this, and hopefully I'll get this painted and finished here in this upcoming week.

To help out any of those who want to make their own Tutankham ColecoVision controller...here's the wiring schematic I designed/used for the 2nd "Firing" joystick, and "Flash Bomb" button: This allows for the use of (1) 2-way joystick, and 1 push-button, with no mechanical or electrical modifications required regarding their switches/contacts. And as wired above, in the "event of a tie" meaning that you are still manipulating the Joystick (shooting) when you press the Flash Bomb button, the Flash Bomb button wins out, and will detonate a Flash Bomb. I also had a brainstorm last night regarding my next twin-stick arcade controller. It will be for the PS1/PS2 (as I don't have a twin stick for the PlayStation yet), and it will be themed for an Atari arcade game from 1982.

I also did just realize that I now have (4) twin stick controllers: I'll have to think about what my next one could be!

It really is, thanks. Agreed. The artwork took some time with all the tiny little details around the joysticks...but obviously it was worth it. No artwork...that's half of the appeal/draw! You'd have to let me know the sizing and layout of you setup to see if we could work something out. Thank you sir. Normally I would have installed the "marquee" artwork and ancillary controls at the top (as I've done with others), but doing so would have moved the joysticks too far down on the 11.25" panel, sacrificing ergonomics, so I did it this way. Also, the reason that the ancillary controls are in the middle with 2 marquee images on opposite sides (vs. centered marquee, and side offset controls), is so that they won't interfere with your palms/wrists when playing.

This one seems a little special as it represents a couple of world firsts (I'm assuming), so I figured I'd give this one it's own thread. It's probably the first ever, arcade-accurate, Tutankham controller...that wasn't in an arcade cabinet. It's also probably the first ever, ColecoVision twin-stick controller. So unveiling my Tutankham Edition - VVG Experience Controller: Built into a structurally enhanced and weighted, Hammond Mfg. 20" x 11.25" sloped top aluminum enclosure...and featuring: *WICO 4-way, red ball knob, leaf-switch joystick ("Left" joystick for movement--wired to ColecoVision joystick) *WICO 2-way, red ball knob, leaf-switch joystick ("Right" joystick for firing--wired to ColecoVision left / right fire buttons) *Arcade 4-piece, red leaf-switch, push-button (Flash Bomb button--wired to simultaneous left & right fire buttons) *Arcade 4-piece, white leaf-switch, push-buttons (P1 & P2 start buttons, wired through a 3 position, dual-pole rotary switch to the keypad buttons 1,2,3 & 4,5,6 respectively, for game selection/start) *NKK momentary push-button w/ clear flip-cover (wired to access the game selection/start menu after your game is over) *The controls are arcade accurate, including their spacing & arrangement, and the artwork is copied/redrawn from the original arcade cabinet art. So now finally, some 38 years after it's original release...I present the proper way, to play the best home port of Tutankham ever commercially released! Enjoy.

You could also upload this to KLOV for its preservation: LINK

So can this be used as a standalone joystick connected to "any" computer running say MAME, via USB, or is it only for use with this streaming hardware component? What brand are the joysticks/buttons...any idea? Is there a 1 player lap-top version, or only this larger 2 player table-top version?

Is that the aluminum VersaBall Shaft? I'm familiar with them, but they don't list them on their website that I can find currently, so I'm not sure if they stopped offering them, or they're waiting for new stock or what? Bat-knobs definitely came about real late 80s, or early 90s. Pretty much all fighting games had them, as did a lot of other Midway games like NBA JAM and the likes. I can work with either, but when I've used bat-knobs joysticks as of late, I've replaced the molded bat-knob shafts with threaded shafts, and used a Crown/Samducksa screw-on bat knobs. They're a bit thinner diameter than the standard molded ones, and polished smooth, like ball knobs are, not molded/textured as the factory iL or HAPP ones are.

The HAPP Competition and iL Eurojoystick have a round restrictor built into the base, but use a square actuator to hit the switch contacts. So while not a 100% true "circular" motion, imagine a square with "really" rounded corners. If you run the stick around the perimeter very slowly and deliberately you can tell that its flat on the sides, but you won't get caught in the corners like the Japanese sticks with their factory installed square 8-way gates. Again, the HAPP Competition is the stick that was in 1941, 1942, 1943, 1943 Kai and I'm sure loads of others SHMUPS in the 1990s. With a Japanese stick, depending on brand and model, gates can be available as 8-way square, 8-way round, 8-way octagon, 4-way clover, 4-way diamond, and 2-way horizontal or vertical. I believe the HAPP Super is a pure circular 8-way...but the general consensus regarding this stick, is that it's pretty unremarkable. I haven't used one in a long time, so I don't recall personally. Always remember too, if you end up with 1 stick and don't love it, you can always change it later, while re-using the rest of the project. Worst case scenario, you would need to drill 4 new holes if the new stick has a different mounting pattern. And unless you're getting something radical like a WICO reproduction, an analog stick, a 49-way stick, or something vintage...most joysticks new cost between $15 - $25...so it's not really breaking the bank going from one to another...obviously depending on your budget. But that kind of leads back to my previous comment, that no matter what you build, some point after the fact you'll want to change something, fix something, or build a new one using what you learned from the first one. At some point you have to start somewhere, and only after building one and using it, will you decide if you like it or not. Then just to throw this into the mix, there's also an absolute myriad of vintage sticks available in the used market, if you can't find what you like with modern solutions. Here's a few that I've used in previous projects, and/or are using for a few upcoming projects...just to give you a very small sample of what's been made over the yerars: From left to right: 1) Namco (Japanese) - Galaxian, 2-way 2 & 3) Bally/Midway - Galaga/Tapper/Timber, 2-way 4) Data East - DECO Burgertime, 4-way From left to right: 1) Taito (Japanese) - Space Invaders Pt. II (Cocktail), 2-way 2) WICO - Universal replacement joystick - Top fire bat handle (leaf-switch), 8-way 3) ATARI - Ball logo joystick - lots of mid to late 80s ATARI arcade games including Gauntlet/Galaga '88/Indiana Jones/and others, available as 4 or 8 way, with micro-switches or leaf-switches 4) Bally/Midway - Gorf (Cocktail)/Gaplus/Bump 'n Jump/Journey, 8-way 5) Bally/Midway - Pac-Man series (and lots of early 80s Bally/Midway games), 4-way 6) Seimitsu LS-32 2/4/8-Way (modern Japanese Candy Cabinet joystick) 1) Sega Zaxxon/Super Zaxxon/Future Spy, 8-way flight stick w/trigger The possibilities are almost endless. But again, and unavoidably, it all still comes down to personal preference, and budget. Obviously for simplicity and cost, start with a new modern stick (Western or Japanese), and upgrade later if you choose. I buy vintage joysticks when I'm building any of my Experience Controllers, as I'm attempting to replicate the "arcade experience" as closely as possible. And as all joysticks feel and react very different, that's a major part of the experience.

Well 1942, TMNT, and The Simpsons used WICO 8-way leaf joysticks (different colored knobs, game dependent)...available as reproductions HERE (this is the 4" shaft version for thicker control panels, there is also a shorter 3.5" version for thinner metal panels), and most of these probably used mating leaf-switch buttons as well. Street Fighter, Mortal Kombat, and all of the NEO-GEO MVS games (pretty much), used HAPP's competition micro-switch joysticks, and matching buttons. From my understanding, the Spanish company iL (Industrias Lorenzo, S.A.) use to make HAPP's parts back in the day, but then after their merger with SUZO, manufacturing went to China, but iL still continues to make their products in Spain, and sell under their own name. So basically you can buy HAPP's Chinese made Competition joysticks/buttons, or iL's Spanish made EuroJoystick, and PSL-L buttons. People say HAPP's quality went down when they switched to Chinese manufacturing...I don't have a frame of reference for this, but when I want these kind of parts I simply get the iL components, they're sold at lots of the online shops. One thing to consider with either of these sticks...they only come with a molded bat knob...in lots of different colors. So if you want a ball knob...you're out of luck...or are you!?! iL does make replacement shafts for their EuroJoystick with a 6mm threading on the top so that you can install any color ball or bat knob you want (that you can purchase with this thread size/pitch). I've used these on several occasions, mostly for 1 reason, I don't care for the overall height of, or the diameter of the fattest part of the molded bat knob for a stick in my lap. Both of these sticks are made for 3/4" thick control panels, but my aluminum enclosures are only like 0.090" thick. The enclosures don't afford enough room below the joysticks to drop mount the stick's bases that far, so by getting the replacement shafts (available in 2 different lengths/heights), I get what suits my needs...normally the "standard length" when I use a taller bat knob, or the "extended length" when I use a ball knob. Worth noting, if you do want to, with any regularity play any sort of fighters...get a micro-switch stick. The leaf-switch sticks can be very sensitive (which is great when you want them), but difficult to not hit diagonals, when you don't want to...kind of hard to explain maybe. So as an example of my recommendation to you would be like this: JOYSTICKS Buttons - CONCAVE Plungers (90s era appropriate) or Convex Plungers I prefer Concave plungers, as they were the standard shape from the 1970s leaf-switch pushbuttons - thru the 1990s micro-switch buttons. The Japanese controls companies started the convex plunger trend for some reason. Again all of this is personal preference. Fortunately though as the iL products are mass produced in an enormous amounts of quantity...they are readily available...and pretty affordable. On the opposite side of this would be either of the Japanese companies' (Sanwa/Seimitsu) joysticks. As stock, they only work with thin metal panels, but shaft extensions are available. The biggest "feeling" difference in these compared to the HAPP or iL, is the spring tension of the stick. The Japanese ones, are very freely moved (light-weight spring), and the Western Happ/iL, are stiffer. Basically any pre-made modern day HORI, or whoever's, arcade stick made for say the PS3/PS4, XBOX ONE, will be these Japanese styles of sticks. So if you have experience with and like the feel of modern home-use arcade sticks you may want to look into the Japanese products, if you want a firmer, more robust feel (80's/90's arcade), then go with the Western controls.