doubledown

So I don't have any idea of how the "magic" of the encoders work in either the Steering Module, or the Roller Controller (and/or how their software reads them)...I just know that they work for the software selections that they were made to work with, and that were programmed to work with them. I'm sure that there are things/ways that "this adapter" plugged into "this adapter", which is then plugged into this Arduino...can be made to possibly work similarly...but it's nothing I'm looking into. If somebody can, or wants to develop, the perfectly functioning electronic equivalent, to replace the original electronics (with 100% perfect compatibility, and reasonable reliability)...I'm sure I could make use of it...but anything that I currently have plans for at this moment (single axis spinner for an arcade controller for Victory, and an arcade accurate Turbo controller), would be built with original Coleco electronics. If somebody has gotten a mouse working on the ColecoVision...and point-and-click type games are made available for it...hey, great, but I don't want to play Operation Wolf with a mouse, as I've played it in it's original form in the arcades...and I'm satisfied living with those memories. I know I've read where people talk about playing Missile Command on system "x" with a mouse that they got working...and it's so much easier than playing with a Trak-Ball...and to that I say...yes it is easier...and yes it's cheating...and yes it's wrong...and I don't want anything to do with it...and I could care less. I'm not attempting to diminish the efforts of those attempting to get PS/2 or USB mice (or whatever) working on a ColecoVision...I'm just saying it's nothing I'm interested in, again, unless "appropriate" games are programmed for it, or that mouse interface would allow me to use a legit arcade track-ball (USB or PS/2) on the ColecoVision....and it worked just like the Roller Controller does in "Roller" mode, for those couple of games that it can work with. For the paddle controller that was made, as there aren't any "paddle" games made for the ColecoVision (as there were for the ATARIs, wherein the engineering/software specifications were defined by ATARI and then adhered to by the programmers)...it wasn't that useful of a controller...from what I remember reading. So if somebody wants to define the specifications for a paddle controller for the ColecoVision, and programmers are on board to program games with that controller in mind...great, and I can't wait. **Please note the above ramblings are those of one cranky old man, and do not reflect the views of the parent website! 😃

I can measure it when I get home tonight...but its probably around 25mm or 28mm. If you're looking at arcade parts suppliers, you're probably not going to find anything smaller than 30mm. The original Nintendo arcade sticks used 30mm, 28mm, and 25mm ball knobs...depending on the game, and cabinet type, and MikesArcade.com sells reproductions of all 3 sizes (do a search for "knob" in their search box, top/left corner)...I don't remember what thread they are though. You can also check McMaster.com (do a search for "ball knob") for different sizes/colors. FYI, phenolic plastic knobs will be glossy and smooth, polypropylene knobs will be matte, and very slightly textured. Then you'd have to know what thread size/pitch you'd need. FYI, 1/4" and M6 are incredibly close to each other...so if you want to install a M6 threaded ball knob onto a 1/4-20 shaft, you can easily "re-tap" the M6 ball threads with a 1/4-20 tap...if they don't have what you're looking for in M6x1mm thread (and vise versa).

Or create a single axis spinner using original Roller Controller hardware/electronics, set it to "Roller" mode for Victory (arcade accurate), or set it to "Joystick" mode for any other games that you'd want a spinner for (Omega Race and Star Trek would be arcade accurate with a Spinner). If I'm not mistaken, the Roller Controller uses both joystick ports because each port can only read one axis of the two-axis track-ball, so this would only need to be connected to 1 joystick port as well...if I'm correct.

I see, I didn't have any knowledge that it had to do with the encoder pulses read per frame, creating the difference between the faster/slower speeds. As I don't do any software programming...I have no knowledge of any of that type of sorcery. 😃 What!?! Me!?! No!!! Wait, actually the artwork for Centipede is already done (low res. sample): This would just give me the kick in the pants I need to move forward with the project, as I have nearly zero love for Slither. 😉

So this is how I thought a "true" proportional Track-Ball works...please feel free to educate me if my understanding is wrong: Say you rotated the track-ball 1 degree, and that 1 degree of ball rotation rotated the encoder disc enough to output 1 pulse, and that 1 pulse was programmed to move your on-screen character 1 pixel in that direction...for every 1 degree of ball rotation your on-screen character would move 1 pixel. (I'm not saying that this degree - to encoder pulse - to pixel movement ratio is correct...just for the sake of easy numbers). Then if you moved the ball 30 degrees of rotation, your on-screen character would move 30 pixels...the difference being, that if you rotated the ball slowly, your character would move slowly...and if you moved the ball quickly, your character would move quickly...but still the same amount of on-screen movement (30 pixels) for the same amount of ball rotation. Is this correct or incorrect? Is the ball rotation, to encoder pulse, to pixel movement ratio changing based on the speed at which the ball is rotated? With Slither being one of the original games that actually can use "Roller" mode on a Roller Controller...how was it done for that game? Please note, that these are not snarky or condescending questions/comments at all...I am genuinely curious.

Are there to be any graphical or audio improvements/enhancements made to the game, or is it just the addition of Roller Controller "Roller" mode compatibility?

Or anybody could simply make their own.

Looks like I built this just in time: There can never be too many versions, bootlegs, variants, sequels and/or clones of PAC-MAN!

You are correct, in that Toru Iwatani did not create the name PAC-MAN...what he did create was the character that we have all known for 40+ years as PAC-MAN, and the PAC-MAN game/gameplay itself. The original Japanese name PUCK-MAN, was changed to PAC-MAN due to potential vandalism concerns here in the West...but when Namco released their first official sequel to PUCK-MAN...they adopted the PAC-MAN moniker...and they released SUPER PAC-MAN.

So continuing on with the details of the PAC-MAN build, let's move onto the joystick. Chapter 2 - "Catching lightning in a bottle, a 2nd time" With the exclusive publishing rights to PAC-MAN in North America, Midway had to decide what joystick they would install into their cabinets...and this is what they built: Simply referred to as the Midway 4-way, or the PAC-MAN joystick, this first iteration/variant of what would become Midway's staple controller for a number of years, is instantly recognizable, and a welcomed sight to any true PAC-MAN aficionado. Let's take a look at the physical properties of this iconic piece of video game history/hardware: * Ball Knob - Red - Semi-gloss finish - Textured - Diameter, ~1.375" - Height of the great circle of the knob when installed, ~1.341" * Lever Shaft - Black stop sleeve, ~0.562" diameter * Dust Washer - Black, under panel installation * Centering method - Steel/rubber grommet * Switch Type - Leaf-switches * Restriction Shape - 4-way diamond, with true break-before-make actuation * Activation Force - Lateral force applied at the great circle of the knob required to activate any switch, ~7.0 oz. Now there are 2 problems that kept me from simply installing an original Midway joystick into this controller: 1) They haven't been produced in over 30 years. There are plenty of these joysticks available on the used market, but they will all most likely need some rebuild/repair (unless NOS), and not all of the necessary repair parts are available. Additionally, as they're out of production, availability and price cannot always be guaranteed. 2) They are simply too large/deep to install into the Hammond Mfg. sloped top enclosures. There are currently 3 joysticks being sold, as "PAC-MAN replacement joysticks", but none of them, even remotely accurately, replicate the look or feel of the original. So my main goal with this project was to custom build a joystick, that would look, feel, and handle, just like the originals (as much as possible)...that could be built with new, available, and sustainable parts. So naturally, the best place to start would have to be one of the 3 joysticks that are marketed as a "PAC-MAN replacement joystick", and simply fix up a few things they fudged...right? Wrong. I opted to start with one of my absolute favorite modern joysticks, the iL EuroJoystick 2: As you can see, it's a far cry from an original PAC-MAN joystick. Tall, molded bat handle lever, spring centering, round 8-way restriction, and micro-switches. How in the world could this ever get passed off as a Midway joystick...with a whole lot of design and engineering on my part...that's how. Let's start with the knob and the lever. Fortunately, this was one of the easiest parts; Arcadeshop.com is currently selling reproduction Midway handles and stop sleeves: On the left, is the "stock" reproduction handle and black stop sleeve, and on the right are my modified versions. For the handle, I had to cut/shorten it's overall length, and then cut a new e-clip groove for the now shorter shaft. With the stop spacer, I had to also cut it shorter, to achieve the proper knob height when installed into the iL EuroJoystick 2 base. Then I had to design and machine the custom tool steel shaft sleeve (steel tube bored and counter-bored, pictured on the far right), that slips over the lowest/skinny portion, and up partially onto the fatter portion, of the Midway shaft...so that the Midway shaft would fit and manipulate properly, with the pivot and actuator parts of the iL EuroJoystick 2...at the arcade accurate height. Seems simple enough! Now that I'd figured out how to install an original or reproduction Midway PAC-MAN ball knob lever into my joystick...I had to tackle the centering spring. Take a look at this picture for reference: In the back row, on the far left, is a red iL EuroJoystick 2 "Long" bat handle lever...the factory shaft for my donor joystick base. The red ball knob on the right side marked PAC-MAN, is a reproduction Midway ball knob shaft. Note the height difference...the iL Bat "Long" is 2.674" tall at the fattest part of the bat knob, versus the 1.341" height of the PAC-MAN knob (at it's giant circle). The lateral force required to manipulate the factory iL EuroJoystick 2, with it's factory "Long" bat handle, is ~8.9 oz...which is already 1.9 oz. more than an original PAC-MAN joystick. When you change out the tall bat knob lever, with the much shorter PAC-MAN ball knob lever, that required force increases to ~14.5 oz...way to firm to be playable. The reason being, is that you're shortening the lever, but not decreasing the amount of work that has to be done...so the solution...have a custom spring made: On the left is the factory iL EuroJoystick 2 spring, and on the right is the one that I had made. Unfortunately I have no way to make my own custom springs, but luckily there is a company in town that does, and I already deal with them occasionally for work. So I went over one day, had a talk with the owner, and had him make me up a few samples. This one was the winner...as it provides for a Midway joystick matching ~7.0 oz. of lateral force required for actuation...just like the original. Now for all intents and purposes...this is the one major difference from my joystick and the originals...the centering device. Mine uses a centering spring, and the Midway joysticks used a steel/rubber centering grommet. I will grant that it does mean that my stick's feel is ever so slightly different from the originals, but as they require the same amount of force (and the knob and lever are the same), the difference is marginal, and probably only discernible to those with lots of play experience on an original. On to the switches. A true PAC-MAN joystick, makes use of silent leaf-switches...no micro-switches...no ifs, ands or buts! So I chose Rollie leaf-switches for my build, as they already come with a molded nylon mounting base, that would make my use/installation of them a bit easier: On the left are (4) "stock" Rollie leaf-switches, that were created as a leaf-switch solution to be used with modern micro-switch push-buttons from HAPP and iL, and on the right are the (4) I modified for my new joystick. I slightly increased the size of the 2 mounting holes on each holder, and machined/removed some material from the mounting ends, due to interferences when installed onto the joystick base, and I changed out the thread-forming screws to machine screws with nylon-insert locknuts...which provides for much more repeatable actuation points. After these simple modifications to the leaf-switches, a bit of modification was required to the iL EuroJoystick 2's switch base for their installation, which was done with with 4 aluminum unthread spacers, and 4 new SST screws. Ok, so I've got the ball knob, stop sleeve, lever height, leaf-switches, and force actuation copied...but it's still a round restricted 8-way joystick, not a diamond restricted 4-way; so I would need a new restrictor plate, and a new actuator: On the left is my 4-way diamond restrictor plate, which mounts to the top of the joystick base, and still allows for the dust washer to be properly installed underneath the control panel. The center diamond cutout features the same 8.6 degrees of chamfer, to match the angle of the joystick shaft when fully actuated in any direction, and provides for full engagement/nesting of the the joystick shaft's stop sleeve perfectly, into each of the 4 cardinal direction points. The smaller/round actuator on the right, fits onto the bottom of the joystick shaft, and was designed to be the proper diameter, to ensure that this is a true 4-way joystick...in that no 2 contacts can be made simultaneously, period. Some modern joysticks that have a repositionable square 8-way / diamond "4-way" gate, can still allow for 2 switches to be made simultaneously, at a small section of their diamond sides...making them not true 4-way joysticks. But my design truly offers a break-before-make switching scenario, from any one direction, to any other...so there can be no issue with any software where a make-before-break scenario can be destructive. Then as I was looking for a way to beef-up the installation of my leaf-switches, and provide a guide for their indexing orientation, I created a spider that pins into the 2nd mounting hole on each of the leaf-switch holders, to index them at the installation angle I wanted, and provide a bit more stiffness in their mounting. Then I simply put it all together, and I get this...my VVG iLeaf Midway 4-way joystick: And that's it...the closest facsimile copy of an original Midway 4-way PAC-MAN joystick the world has ever seen. This will also be my go-to joystick of choice, if/when I decide to build custom arcade controllers themed for the Midway published games Burger Time, Rally-X, Root Beer Tapper, and/or Wizard of Wor, or any of the other PAC-MAN sequels. Stay tuned, and I'll soon detail the machining and assembly, and the meticulous attention to detail observed when designing this masterpiece, to provide the maximum arcade accuracy I could present!

I've started a new topic/post/thread, to fully detail the above pictured PAC-MAN controller build (pictured in post #482 above)...for those interested...follow this link: Details Here

And I think I can speak for more than just myself when I say...we all appreciate your fine programming! It is in fact, the 7800 versions of BABY PAC-MAN, and SUPER PAC-MAN, that flat out, are the reasons for many of the extra features and functions included into this particular controller build. And I'll give some credit (albeit begrudgingly 😉 ) to my friend @AtariBrian, who got me back into the 7800 scene, and quickly got me up to speed on all of the great homebrew games that have been released for it...since last I was even remotely playing/collecting for it...many, many, many moons ago. I have, in the past, made a few limited edition controllers...but PAC-MAN (and it's many sequels and clones) is too great, and too important of a game, to limit this build to a single, solitary, one-off example. As always, I'll freely state, that in the realm of our universe, and the infinite number of others...anything, and everything, can be, and/or is possible. Give me a chance to finish chronicling this build here, over the next few days (hopefully I'll be finished by the end of this weekend), so that you (and everybody else) can get a true understanding of what's inside this particular controller, so that all of the detailed info is in one public place. At that point, discussions can be had as to which features and options, can/could be added or subtracted, for anybody's particular needs or wants. Who knows...maybe someone wants one like this, built for the NES versions of PAC-MAN & Ms. PAC-MAN! With regards to price...I honestly don't know yet...I never do until after the controller is built and I sit down and calculate it (if somebody requests it)...unless the controller was commissioned by a buyer prior to the build...whereas, a price would have been previously calculated. Generally all of the controllers that I build (that aren't commissioned), are built by me, for me, as "passion projects" in my never ending pursuit for extreme-quality, and arcade-accuracy, for in-home enjoyment...and I generally don't take the controller's cost into consideration very much at all, as it would just lessen the final product. 😉 There are several features, options, and component selections on a controller like this, that can greatly affect it's overall price...but again this can all be discussed once I finish detailing the build. And for those who may already be thinking that they also may be interested in something like this...variants could be made and themed for: Ms. PAC-MAN BABY PAC-MAN SUPER PAC-MAN Jr. PAC-MAN ...in addition to PAC-MAN. As PAC-MAN PLUS was never sold in a dedicated cabinet (only as a conversion kit for existing PAC-MAN / Ms. PAC-MAN cabinets)...there is no unique artwork/theme for it (with the exception of the marquee, which I'm not making use of).

Yes, the compatible games list that this controller can play, is much much larger than simply: Baby Pac-Man Burger Time Jr. Pac-Man Ms. Pac-Man Pac-Man Pac-Man Plus Rally-X Root Beer Tapper Super Pac-Man Wizard of Wor ...these are just the games that were published in North America by Bally/Midway (and that have ports/homebrews for consoles like the ColecoVision and 2600/7800, and others), wherein this particular controller is truly appropriate for; with regards to its custom built joystick's physical look, function, and feel...when considering arcade accuracy. Frogger was published by Sega/Gremlin, and had a 4-way WICO ("standard", skinny shaft) joystick as standard. Donkey Kong, and it's sequels were shipped with Nintendo's clover restricted, 4-way, micro-switch joysticks. Again, all of these games (and many many more) are all playable with this controller, but the true goal of this project, was to build a PAC-MAN arcade controller, with a joystick that looks and feels like, the original Bally/Midway 4-way arcade joystick. Any game that requires either a 2-way (vertical or horizontal) or 4-way joystick...and 0 or 1 button can be easily played with this controller, across a great many game consoles and personal computers. This controller is my small hardware contribution, to be added to the ever-expanding list of software contributions, from so many programmers, who all share the same single unifying goal...bringing the PAC-MAN arcade experience to our homes. I'd like to personally dedicate this controller to the creator of PAC-MAN...Toru Iwatani, and also to all of the talented programmers (Tod Frye, @PacManPlus, @opcode, and so very many others) who have, and who continue to...program newer, better, and ever-increasing arcade accurate ports, hacks, and homebrews...and of course, also to all of the PAC-MAN sequels and clones, made for so very many consoles and computers, created over these last 40 years. Long live PAC-MAN!

So this is one that I've been working on for quite a while, mostly due to the joystick. But it worked out for the best, as the extra time it took me to design/engineer/build the joystick, allowed me to think of and add, a few more features & options that I wasn't originally planning on, and those extra features/options make this controller compatible with more games than I had originally planned for. So if you haven't yet seen the pictures in my main controller thread, here they are: Pac-Man Edition DX - VVG Experience Controller Due to the amount of research, engineering and work that went into this build, I've decided to chronicle this one a bit more than I usually do, but I'll split the details into 3 parts to break up the info a bit. So we'll start here with Chapter 1, the overall controller, it's features and its console & game compatibility. Chapter 1 - "SIX-PAC" This controller was built into a Hammond Mfg., 17" x 11.25" aluminum sloped-top enclosure, that was braced, stiffened, and weighted...and it features the following hardware: ** (1) VVG "iLeaf Midway," 4-way joystick (custom designed, engineered, and built...and will be detailed in a later chapter) ** (2) 4-Piece, arcade original, leaf-switch push-buttons, (Black), (installed into the control surface, on both sides of the joystick) ** (2) 4-Piece, arcade original, leaf-switch push-buttons, (Yellow), (installed into both sides of the enclosure) ** (1) Suzo-Happ, miniature round push-button, (Yellow), (installed into the right side of the enclosure) ** (1) C&K 2PDT push-button switch, w/ mechanical indicating button cap (Yellow), (installed to the left of the keypad) ** (1) VVG ColecoVision Controller PCB (Rev. 2, 6x2), w/ (12) C&K D6 key-switch push-buttons, (Yellow, round) ** (12') Custom controller cord, w/ custom-crimped AMP DE-9 connector, with rear-mount cord cleats for cable management ** Arcade cabinet (upright & cabaret) inspired CPO artwork, and arcade cabinet (upright) inspired side panels (Yellow) I've built previously, PAC-MAN "themed" Hand Controllers (PAC-MAN, Ms. PAC-MAN, & PAC-MAN PLUS), and PAC-MAN "themed" VVG Joystick Controllers (PAC-MAN & Ms. PAC-MAN). Now all of those controllers were built as improved / alternate / upgraded controllers for the ColecoVision, with aesthetic and cosmetic queues taken from their arcade counterparts. The purpose of this controller however, was not simply to replicate the styling of a PAC-MAN arcade cabinet, but to also replicate the controls...specifically the Bally/Midway joystick used in the North American published arcade cabinets. But again, the specifics regarding the joystick will be detailed in a later chapter, I just wanted to point out the purpose of this extreme build. So let's start in the middle...a proper 4-way, diamond restricted joystick, installed for directional control (Up / Down / Left / Right), and wired for native compatibility with a plethora of 8-bit systems and computers, including (but not limited to) the Coleco ColecoVision / ADAM, the ATARI 2600 / 8-Bits / 7800, the Commodore VIC-20 / C-64, the CollectorVision Phoenix, and others...and with a joystick / wiring adapter, also compatible with systems such as the TI-99, Apple IIe, Magnavox Odyssey, and others. Now personally, I don't care one little bit about ambidextrous controls (I don't think anybody else does either, no one ever posts about it), but as PAC-MAN is one of the very few games that I can (and often do) play either handed, and because a center mounted joystick is "arcade accurate", I installed my joystick in the center of the control panel...for authenticity and accuracy. There you have it, a beautiful 4-way joystick controller for PAC-MAN...because that's all PAC-MAN needs...so why all of the other buttons then you may be asking!?! Well, let's move onto the keypad next. Installed centered-ish below the joystick, and ergonomically clear of your wrists/palms when manipulating the joystick, is a 6 column, by 2 row, 12-button keypad; wired as a fully functional 12-button ColecoVision keypad, useful for in-game menu selections...for those games that require them. Such as the AtariSoft's PAC-MAN prototype, and @opcode's PAC-MAN Collection, and their upcoming PAC-MAN DX...as well as other games that this controller was built for. To the left and to the right of the joystick, are black leaf-switch push-buttons. Now at this point, anybody who has ever played PAC-MAN well knows, that you don't use any buttons to play PAC-MAN. But what if you want to load PAC-MAN from your ColecoVision AtariMax multi-cart, your 7800 Concerto multi-cart, or from the SD card menu on your CollectorVision Phoenix...you'll need some method to select PAC-MAN from your list of games...and these buttons make that possible. And as the joystick is centered, allowing for ambidextrous control, there is one button on the left, for right-hand joystick manipulators...and also one button on the right, for left-hand joystick manipulators. There are a couple of more reasons that I selected to add these buttons, and one of those reasons is pretty super! The arcade game SUPER PAC-MAN, with it's radically different game-play, added a new and very exciting gameplay element...Super Pellets. When PAC-MAN eats a Super Pellet, he temporarily becomes super-sized, is invincible from ghosts, can blast through locked gates...and at the press & hold of a button, can travel at Super Speed. Now the ColecoVision version of SUPER PAC-MAN, doesn't make use of this button, once you eat a Super Pellet, you are automatically travelling at Super Speed...but @PacManPlus's version of SUPER PAC-MAN for the 7800 does make use of the Super Speed button, just like its arcade counterpart. So these ambidextrous buttons are required for the 7800 game SUPER PAC-MAN, and as leaf-switch buttons, once again, are arcade accurate. Now Bally/Midway, used their amazing 4-way leaf-switch joystick, on several arcade games that they published...many of which have been ported to our favorite 8-bit systems. Including (but not limited to) Burger Time, Rally-X, Root Beer Tapper, Wizard of Wor and others...and each of these games requires a 4-way joystick, and one button for game-play...all of which can be properly played with this controller due to the inclusion of the control panel surface buttons. And as a proper PAC-MAN controller, this purpose-built wonder is also perfect for playing other games in the PAC franchise, besides just PAC-MAN and SUPER PAC-MAN...and those games include Ms. PAC-MAN, PAC-MAN PLUS, and Jr. PAC-MAN. So by now, if you've been keeping track, you've surely counted that I've listed 5 PAC-MAN games that this controller is perfect for...so why did I title this chapter "SIX-PAC?" Well because there was one other PAC-MAN game released by Bally...BABY PAC-MAN...the hybrid, video / pinball entry in the PAC franchise...that also happens to have a homebrew port for the 7800. Like other PAC-MAN games, the video game portion has you manipulating a Bally/Midway 4-way joystick for maneuvering your way through the maze portion, but when down in the pinball playfield area...you of course need both left and right flipper buttons. The official arcade flyer lists that the flipper buttons on the BABY PAC-MAN cabinets were available as "Top" (control panel surface on either side of the joystick) buttons, and/or "Side" (standard pinball machine placement) buttons. The one pictured on the flyer in fact, shows them only installed on "Top", but every one I've ever seen personally, or in non-promotional pictures, shows them with both the "Top" and "Side" buttons installed. So for arcade accuracy/inclusion, I've installed a set of leaf-switch push-buttons on the side of the enclosure, for that authentic pinball feel...if that's you're pleasure. But now you may be thinking...what if you wanted to control your flippers with the "Top" mounted control buttons, on either sides of the joystick...well press the ONE Button / TWO Button push-button switch below the joystick and to the left of the keypad...and the two buttons on the control panel surface go from being wired as the same "ONE" button (providing ambidextrous control), to being wired as "TWO" different buttons...so that you can play BABY PAC-MAN...using the joystick, and the two "Top" buttons...as was an option in the arcades. If memory serves, and from what I've seen and read, original BABY PAC-MAN arcade/pinball machines (while a legitimate pinball game), did not employ a standard pinball plunger for launching the ball when down in the pinball playfield area. Instead (again from what I remember, and what I've read), you would press the right flipper button to launch the ball (or after a time of approximately 3-5 seconds it would automatically launch). The 7800 homebrew, instead, has you pull the joystick down to launch the ball. But as I didn't want to have to manipulate the joystick to launch the ball, and then very quickly move a hand to get it over to the side flipper buttons, I installed a small "Launch" button on the right side, above the right flipper button. This way I can get my hands placed and set for manipulation of the side flipper buttons, press the "Launch" button on the right side (more like what the original would have been) (wired as Joystick down), then be already ready, to manipulate the flipper buttons after the ball has launched. Now for those wondering...here's the reason for the color choices I selected, for the aforementioned buttons. As this controller is PAC-MAN themed...and PAC-MAN has no game-play buttons, I chose colors that would allow these buttons to blend in with their surrounding artwork...Black for the control panel buttons, and Yellow for the side flipper and launch buttons. Originally I had planned on using black square keypad caps for the keypad buttons, but then I remembered that those same key-switches are available in yellow, in their round variants...and as PAC-MAN is yellow...and round...it seemed like a no brainer. So technically detailed, there it is...the perfect home arcade controller for: Baby Pac-Man Burger Time Jr. Pac-Man Ms. Pac-Man Pac-Man Pac-Man Plus Rally-X Root Beer Tapper Super Pac-Man Wizard of Wor ...as well as being compatible with a very large number of other games, and compatible with a very large number of consoles and computers. In the upcoming 2 chapters, I will detail the custom built joystick itself...and the unique assembly and build of this arcade accurate controller, so stay tuned!

Switch is for One Button / Two Button. I'll post the build & features details here in the next couple of days.

I forgot to mention (and to further the discussion), for those who may appreciate the silence of a leaf-switch joystick, but are leary of the potential scary amount of maintenance, there is a new optical joystick available from Buttercade. The technology isn't new, the original Gorf and Berzerk arcade joysticks were optical, as were aftermarket options from WICO and HAPP back in the day. What Buttercade did, was develop a new optical lower PCB that replaces the micro-switches on an iL EuroJoystick 2 that he calls the OpticIL. I just got my pre-ordered model in the other day, and with the little testing I've done with it so far I like it. As an optical stick, it does require power...I read the current draw at only 32mA when connected to my 7800, which powers it, no problem. Of note, as an iL EuroJoystick 2, it is only available with a molded bat knob lever, but Focus Attack sells the "standard" and "extended" length 6mm threaded iL replacement shafts, which allow for use with a ball knob...as is my preference. No, I'm not affiliated with either vendor mentioned...just a customer who wants to try every quality joystick I can get my hands on. As mentioned by others, the 7800 is a pretty easy console to wire a controller for, if you're so inclined. And while not my size preference... ...little arcade-ish controllers can be made pretty cheaply, to mildly expensive...depending on your parts selection.

If people wanted a legit cabinet thats been refurbished and reliable, they could get one...at a lot higher price than one available at Wal-Mart.

I've use a few different joysticks: plus others...and as I've said, everybody is entitled to their own opinion, whether they're wrong or not. 😄

No, Pac-Man cabinets in North America used the Bally/Midway 4-way leaf switch joysticks...and they absolutely play better than every micro-switch joystick.

And that is exactly what I am saying, there is a very large market for "inexpensive". Whether thats Arcade1UP cabinets, or small little controllers for home consoles. To those in the market for these products, price and size are the most important factors.

As always it will always be a matter of preference, but if you had a WICO heavy duty stick that felt weaker than a Sanwa, you had a severely worn out or damaged grommet, or you have a beefed up spring in your Sanwa. And I don't know what 2 arcade games you have, but if you like the Sanwas for those games, then you like the Sanwas for thise games...period...you're given right. When compared to $50 WICOs, or original vintage joysticks that can and do range in market price from $100 - $400 or more...yes a $25 - $30 joystick is cheaper...I'm not saying cheap...I'm stating inexpensive. "Cheap" would be the $10 - $15 Chinese knock offs on Ebay and Amazon. The discussion here is in regards to controllers for the hobby of home video game consoles, not arcade cabinets. And in this area, I see a hell of a lot more threads and demand for $15 - $25 adapters that let you use a Genesis control pad for this console or that console, and $50 - $65 "arcade-ish" controllers, then I do for high quality, and/or arcade authentic controllers in the $250 - $600 range. There are those of course who can afford, and are willing to pay for the best of the best...but the other 95%, want or are budgeted for small and cheap, and those points are more important to them than ergonomics, quality, robustness, or ease of use. Which again...is there right...not everybody can afford a Ferrari. Just look at the flooded nostalgia market of Arcade1UP, AtGames Legends, and other products. I've seen some of those units on sale or clearance for $150 or less...how well built can those things be. So well built obviously, that there are an endless number of posts on Reddit and the likes, wherein people are "loving their new gaming unit, but the controls suck", and they're looking for advice on how to replace them, and with what. Those are not people spending $1500 - $4000 for an original 1 game arcade cabinet, those are people spending $150 - $350 on crap, that will end up on Craigslist in less than a year.

And Sanwa's spring and switches will wear, and its grease will stiffen and/or collect dust/dirt, and get sticky/gritty. It all depends on its use, abuse, and environment. I've not yet had to adjust any leafs (joysticks or buttons) since I started installing them in custom controllers about a year and a half ago. More often than not, I use them when they're game/era appropriate, versus just simply using the Sanwas that everybody clamors about in the fighting game forums. I've never built a controller for the latest edition of Tekken where it would actually be game appropriate to use a Sanwa. The only time I use any of the modern Japanese sticks, is when I don't have enough mounting depth in the enclosure that I'm using for a Western stick, and in that instance I'd use a Seimitsu LS-32 every day of the week over a Sanwa...and I'd replace the micro-switches with higher actuation force Cherry switches so it didn't feel like a toy. I think people mostly use the Sanwas, again, as they're all they find people talking about on the internet (for modern fighting games), they have a very small "under-panel" profile, and they're inexpensive...even cheaper when buying a Chinese knock-off. A single WICO will cost you about $50 with shipping for 1, and about $90 with shipping for 2...and most people simply can't afford them, and the tiny little enclosures they want to use can't accommodate them. In the end its all a matter of personal preference, and what you can afford depending on your budget. There is no right or wrong...except in the case of Robotron: 2084, where its wrong to use anything other than a pair of WICO heavy duty leaf-switch joysticks...just ask Eugene Jarvis. 😉

Not compared to WICO leaf-switch joysticks.

Unfortunately the noise of 2 clicky Sanwa's, whilst playing Robotron: 2084, sounds like: ...two accountants engaged in a stapler fight! 🤣

PAC-fection!!! Dreams really can come true.