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doubledown

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Everything posted by doubledown

  1. Does anybody who has ever owned this ColeoVision prototype, or anybody who has seen it in videos or in person...know what the controls were. Did the game have a Player/Skill selection screen like most ColecoVision games have, if so what were the available options (the INTV version was a 1 player game, with 4 skill levels)? The Intellivision manual shows one button for "Fire Canon / Raise Shield" (Fire Canon during Wind Raider flying Phase 1, & Raise Shield for He-Man running Phase 2), and the 2nd button for "Bomb Release / Raise Shield" (Bomb Release during Wind Raider flying Phase 1, & Raise Shield for He-Man running Phase 2). Is this the same concept for the ColecoVision version, and if so which Hand Controller button (Left/Right), is which function?
  2. A special thanks to @Machine for my new Commando patch, which pairs very nicely with my Commando controller: And just to show off a little bit, here's my newest/second warfare themed controller: This Ikari Warriors controller, I built for the NES. I had originally planned to build it for the 7800, but as I hadn't built myself a custom NES controller yet, Ikari Warriors I, II, and III all have ports on the NES (as does SNK's Guerrilla War), and I found a Scramble arcade joystick to use for a 2nd 7800 controller build for myself...I decided to build it for the NES. And yes, the joystick is, a legitimate, arcade original, SNK/Seimitsu LS-30 rotary joystick. If I ever get around to finalizing the details for, and building my Front Line controller for the ColecoVision...I'll have the trifecta! And in other news, for those that like Mini controllers, I built this one up this the other night: At 6.5" wide by 5.5" deep, it's the smallest sloped top, aluminum enclosure I can build a controller into...yet its still large enough, that it can accommodate full-sized, and legitimate arcade control hardware...barely.
  3. Where'd you get that Halloween picture of me!?!
  4. I don't know if I want a controller that I have to manipulate with my mouth!
  5. ..I don't know...Dolph was looking pretty sexy back in 1987, after Rocky handed him his ass only 2 years previously!!!
  6. I wonder what image/style of He-Man I should use for my He-Man controller...let's take a poll: A: or B: Tough call! 😉
  7. I too grew up with a 2600, and it's CX-40s and a WICO Command Control (bat handle), and I...to this day, hold/manipulate joystick controllers thusly (I am right handed by definition): If its a hand held joystick/controller...CX-40, ColecoVision Hand Controller, or the likes, I hold the controller in my left hand, using my left hand thumb and/or finger(s) for the buttons, and manipulate the joystick with my right hand. If it's a lap-top, or table-top controller...like any type of "arcade stick" controller, I use my left hand for the joystick, and my right hand for the buttons (I can play as the inverse, but I'm not as good with that orientation, unless it's simply a joystick only, game like Pac-Man or similar). The arcade game I grew up playing the most, was a Galaga cocktail cabinet at a Pizza Hut near me, and that game only has Left Joystick / Right Button controls...so that's what I also grew up with too. If it had a button on both sides of the joystick, I probably would have done it opposite, as I do with hand-held controllers. All that being said, there would't be any issue building any of these, ColecoVision or Atari editions, (with the exception of the DX+) as a Right Hand joystick / Left Hand buttons layout...if someone preferred. Note, that the keypad on a Right joystick / Left buttons DX Edition, would still be in the same position, and layout/orientation as those pictured above.
  8. Thank you, thank you. The new keypad layout PCB was a stroke of luck (or genius maybe). I happened to have one of my CV controller PCBs laying on my bench, when I sat this housing down next to it and realized that 2 rows of my keypad buttons would fit into the height of the front face. Then a quick measurement lead me to the fact that I could fit 6 columns of buttons on the same face (with just enough room for the necessary diodes on the same PCB), so I just designed a new board for that layout. Its actually a win/win, because now I can also use this new 6x2 keypad layout on other large controllers, like arcade type recreations, where I don't want a large/standard layout keypad detracting from the overall arcade aesthetics. I can simply install one of these up near the top edge, where I normally install ancillary rotary and/or toggle switches, to allow P1 & P2 start buttons to behave as different keypad buttons, for different skill selections. I've already got an idea for one I plan to build this way. I'll see if I can get a chance to look into pricing for these this weekend, for those interested. And to answer a few questions I've received, here in one public place for all, this is the line-up of the different controller editions (ColecoVision versions), with their detailed features/differences, in a little more compact form, than my post above (ordered from lowest featured/priced to highest featured/priced): ColecoVision Basic Edition - VVG Mini Controller 1 Joystick 2 Buttons 1 8' Cable (male plug) **User is responsible for keypad input solution. You could provide your own wye cable, that you plug this controller and a Hand Controller into, into Port 1. You could plug this controller into Port 1 for game-play, and plug a ColecoVision Hand Controller (or similar) into Port 2 for keypad inputs (for games that allow this). You could plug this controller into Port 1 of your Phoenix, and use a SFC NTT Data Control Pad, plugged into the SNES port on your Phoenix. Or some other similar solution. ColecoVision Edition (Standard) - VVG Mini Controller 1 Joystick 2 Buttons 1 8' Cable (male plug) 1 3' Cable (female receptacle) **User to provide a secondary controller, such as a standard ColecoVision Hand Controller (or similar), to plug into the 2nd cable (w/ female receptacle) wired into this controller, for keypad inputs. Then only the 1 cable, with the male plug from this controller, has to be plugged into Port 1 of your console. ColecoVision DX Edition - VVG Mini Controller 1 Joystick 2 Buttons 1 10' Cable (male plug) Cord cleats mounted onto the rear of the enclosure, for cable management 12 Button keypad, installed into the front of the enclosure **This edition is a full-featured ColecoVision Hand Controller replacement, no secondary controller, or any other bits are necessary, to play any game that can be played with a standard ColecoVision Hand Controller ColecoVision DX+ Edition - VVG Mini Controller 1 Joystick 2 Buttons 1 10' Cable (male plug) Cord cleats mounted onto the rear of the enclosure, for cable management 12 Button keypad, installed into the front of the enclosure 1 Carry/storage handle **This edition is a full-featured ColecoVision Hand Controller replacement, no secondary controller, or any other bits are necessary, to play any game that can be played with a standard ColecoVision Hand Controller. **The + edition, simply adds the right side mounted carry/storage handle (because why not!) The Grey Special - VVG Mini Controller My personal ColecoVision DX+ Edition - VVG Mini Controller, built to my preferences, and not available for sale So like I said, I'll try to work out the pricing this weekend, and post it here when I get it figured out.
  9. So it would seem that there are those, who fancy an “arcade-ish” type joystick controller for their game play enjoyment; but who would prefer said controller be small, and/or cute…rather than full-sized, and/or ergonomic and comfortable. Perhaps their reasoning is that they have very little storage room for their video game hobby. Perhaps they would like to frequently travel with said controller. Perhaps they just like complain about things on the internet. Or perhaps they simply want a very small controller, for the very small hands and laps, of their very small children…that they’re trying to get interested in vintage gaming. Whatever the reason…it makes no difference; everybody of course, has their own needs and wants, and is entitled to their own opinions. Now, I can tell you, that I personally, don’t really fancy a small “arcade-ish” controller for my game play enjoyment, but, I did come up with an idea for one. Let me preface this reveal/announcement with my opinion, that most of the small “arcade-ish” type joystick controllers I’ve seen, as built by others, by my opinion, seem to fall a little bit short in the fit and finish department, their layout and ergonomics (the little bit that applies with “arcade-ish” controllers this small), and also usually the overall robustness of the controller (again, my personal opinion, your mileage may vary). Most of these small controllers are usually built into small plastic molded or 3D printed enclosures, wood cigar or craft boxes, or even cardboard boxes…or some type of plastic storage container. Again, I’m not saying that there is anything wrong with any of these, but it got me to thinking…what if a person of discerning taste, and disposable income, was interested in a high-quality small “arcade-ish” controller for themselves…where do they turn? Well, wonder no more, as I’ve taken it upon myself to create a controller for those who are looking for this very thing; a small “arcade-ish” controller populated with quality brand-name components, that looks and feels like a commercially available finished product, and one that has been built to take the foreseeable and inevitable abuse, that every game controller is eventually subject to…and to endure that punishment! So a controller this small will obviously have to sacrifice some of the comfort and ergonomics found in its larger siblings, and due to its extremely small physical size, there is also the question as to what features & options can physically be installed into it. To start out, I selected the smallest enclosure that Hammond Mfg. offers, in their family of black powder-coated aluminum, 10 degree sloped-topped housings (and the only size that I haven’t made use of thus far). The enclosure itself measures 6.5” wide, by 5.5” deep (front to back), and with its sloped/angled control panel top, is approximately 1.5” tall in the front, which increases to 2.5” tall at the rear. To some this may sound like a big enclosure, but to me…it’s not…it’s quite the opposite. For comparison, the other 3 sizes from this lineup that I regularly use are, 20” wide x 11.25 deep, 17” wide x 11.25” deep, and 14” wide by 8.25” deep…so this new one is definitely a Mini enclosure. Due to its small size, there is no way to employ, a built-in, standard 12 button keypad…whilst simultaneously installing full-sized, and true, arcade controls…so this is my original idea/concept: ColecoVision Edition – VVG Mini Controller Built into the “littlest housing that could” from Hammond Mfg., this controller features: **Seimitsu LS-32 Joystick, w/ 35mm black ball knob (smaller/larger ball knobs, and even bat knobs are also available) – configurable with an 8-way square, 8-way round, 8-way octagon, 4-way clover, 2-way vertical, or 2-way horizontal restrictor gate ****Note: For cosmetics, comfort, and proper function, the joystick was drop mounted 1/16” so that its dust washer could be installed below the control panel. **Seimitsu PS-15 30mm push-buttons (2), Light Ash **Cable #1, 8’ w/ male plug - for connection to console **Cable #2, 3’ w/ female receptacle - for connection from Hand Controller (or similar) for keypad functionality **ColecoVision inspired artwork One would think that with an enclosure this small, the normal bracing, stiffening, and strengthening modifications that I perform on these types of enclosures, surely wouldn’t be necessary…but in my opinion…they still absolutely are. So the very few, factory,#6 assembly fasteners are disposed of, and increased to #8-32, proper machine screws; and two steel angle braces are installed to solidify the enclosure into an incredibly strong, and robust little housing…whilst adding almost half a pound of much needed weight…especially necessary on a controller this small…for table-top game play stability. With no room for a standard keypad, I decided, that to account for the necessary keypad functions, I would install a short 2nd cable, that will allow the user to plug in a standard Hand Controller (or similar) to have easy access to the keypad buttons when necessary. I understand that this is not an ideal situation for keypad-intensive games, but as this is intended to be a small controller alternative for those who are interested in a small, but high-quality “arcade-ish” type of controller, sacrifices had to be made. Originally I considered simply installing a panel-mount DE-9 receptacle onto the rear of the housing, but with the extremely short length of the coiled cords of the original Hand Controllers, I figured that the 3’ external cable, would allow you to set the secondary controller off to the side of your person a bit, or perhaps even on a table next to you…or some such similar. In essence, consider this a small ColecoVision 2 button arcade joystick controller, with a built in wye cable, wherein the secondary controller is actually near you…the user (and easy accessible), not near the console…and across the room. Then I figured, that there may also be those who want a controller such as this, but have already accounted for their keypad functionality needs, by using a controller plugged into Port 2 of the console (for games that allow for this), or perhaps by using a Super Famicom NTT DATA control pad with their Phoenix, or the likes…so I’ll also offer this: ColecoVision Basic Edition – VVG Mini Controller This Basic edition, has all of the same features, elements, and options of the standard edition from above, with the exception of the 2nd cable. Basically this is offered as a lower cost option, for those budget-minded enthusiasts, who again, already have a solution they’re comfortable with, for keypad functionality. So there we have it, just over 1000 words to describe my latest, smallest, and most adorable custom arcade type ColecoVision controller to date…but wait…there’s more. And surely, if you’ve read this far, maybe you’re willing to read a little further. The Standard Edition of this controller (the model with the 2 separate cables, as detailed/pictured 1st above) was my original idea for this project; again, as I was pretty sure that there was no way I was going to be able to install a standard 12 button keypad into this housing. But before I got too far into the project’s layout and design, I had ordered, and waited to receive the enclosure that I would be using. Even though I had a dimensional drawing of the enclosure from the manufacturer’s website…I really like to get these types of things physically into my hands, so that I can really get a feel for them…in real life. I find that it’s too easy to zoom in on something on your computer screen, and make it appear much larger and/or roomier than it actually is. With the new housing in hand, I started really playing around with the hardware and the layout. Determining which components would work, which would not, and the likes. I had set the enclosure down on my workbench to do a bit of computer work, when at some point thereafter, I noticed one of my VVG ColecoVision Controller PCBs w/ Keypad laying next to it that I had built up and just had laying there…for some reason or another. So I got to comparing the enclosure and the PCB, and looking at a few different things/options, when I had a brainstorm. I had already decided that there simply wasn’t enough room for a standard 12 button keypad…but it looked like, I could create and install a 12 button keypad, with a different, albeit still familiar (to true ColecoVision fans) layout. So after some measurements, some digital layout work, and a couple hours to design a new custom PCB, I present you with this: ColecoVision DX Edition – VVG Mini Controller By reconfiguring the standard 3 (columns) x 4 (rows) 12-button keypad layout, to a 6 (columns) x 2 (rows) layout (Dina 2 in one / TELEGAMES Personal Arcade format), I can fit a full 12 button keypad into the front face of this Mini controller enclosure…thus making it a full-featured, Mini ColecoVision arcade controller, the likes of which the world has never seen. And, as this is the DX (deluxe) Edition, it of course features cord cleats on the rear of the enclosure, for cable management: A surprising amount of work went into creating this new, tiny little controller. In addition to the actual design work for the controller itself, I had to design a new PCB for the 6x2 keypad layout, and I had to modify my existing machining fixture that I built for my CNC mill, which I use for machining these enclosures…due to this enclosure’s incredibly small size. Additionally, I also had to build a new “booster seat attachment” for said fixture, so that I can machine the front and rear faces of the housing, for the installation of the PCB w/ keypad buttons, and the cord cleats on the DX edition. Now, I will never tell you that this is my most-est favorite-est controller of all time, (although it is growing on me), but I really do like the way it came out, and I can unequivocally say, that it feels like a solid little tank…with a joystick inside. I’m not kidding, you could seriously bludgeon somebody to within an inch of their life with this controller…if that was your thing. Feel free to throw this little baby across the room in a fit of rage whenever the game you’re playing is cheating…I’m pretty sure it’ll survive! You just may want to pass out some helmets to your family and friends though, first, before you do so. And just so that the ATARI fanboys don’t feel left out: ATARI VCS Edition – VVG Mini Controller ATARI 7800 Edition – VVG Mini Controller For the ATARI versions, I switched to Ultimarc GoldLeaf push-buttons (Orange), as I prefer concave plunger buttons myself, and they offer a more vintage look and feel. I would have used them for the ColecoVision versions too…but sadly they’re not available in grey. The selection for grey arcade pushbuttons is pretty limited, even more so when you consider the shallow mounting depth this enclosure offers. But wait, there’s even more. For those who’d like a small controller like this to be truly travel-friendly, or for those with limited space, and/or storage concerns, I’ve come up with yet, even one more feature: ColecoVision DX+ Edition - VVG Mini Controller Installed onto the right side of the controller, is a color matched, black thermoplastic with grey rubber insert carry handle, which allows for easy and convenient transport, and provides the ability for this controller to be hung from a hook…for easy storage. And as a bonus, the side handle, also provides a little more pseudo control panel surface, to help support your right hand while manipulating the push-buttons. And there we have it…or so it would seem. Now again, a controller this small will never be my controller of choice (due to its small size, and general lack of overall ergonomics/comfort/support), but as I had to physically create one for photographic purposes, I figured I might as well make a special one just for me: The Grey Special – VVG Mini Controller The Grey Special, is my personal, ColecoVision DX+ Edition - VVG Mini Controller, customized to my liking, and built with my control/hardware preferences (as possible). For the joystick, I removed the factory standard micro-switches, and installed new Cherry D43Y (86g) micro-switches, which firms up joystick feel quite a bit, as well as it knocks down the audible clicking noise, by about 50%...making it bit more pleasant to the human ear when it’s being manipulated. Additionally, I removed the joystick’s factory main-gate and sub-gate, and installed the 8-way round gate option parts, as this is my preference for most vintage 8-way games, and for general, universal game-play. Then lastly, as I very much prefer concave plunger push-buttons, especially those of the true and original, vintage arcade variety, I was able to source a NOS pair of light-grey arcade leaf-switch push-buttons, to be installed into this, my personal Mini Controller. Note, The Grey Special is a 001/001 L.E., and will not be offered for sale, unlike the others. Now that these Minis are finished, I can get back to BIGGER and better things! So thanks for looking (and reading), and I await your kudos, your compliments, and of course your obligatory complaints (I have already been foretold of 7 of them, so bring 'em on)! 😆
  10. I should probably start working on a custom He-Man themed controller for this forthcoming CV release!
  11. If that were the case, I'd sell it through whichever site charges less fees, and then cancel the other sale due to "unavailability". 😊
  12. I figured I’d take a stab at building myself an arcade joystick controller for the NES…as I haven’t yet done so, and I personally find the NES Advantage to be, a little bit lacking; especially now as an adult, with adult sized hands. I really like to create arcade game themed controllers (versus system/console generic), as their original cabinets, controls, and artwork, offer a lot of inspiration to draw from when building custom controllers like these. So unveiling my: Ikari Warriors Edition – VVG Enhanced Controller I am by no means, a die-hard Ikari Warriors fan (I’ve personally played more Commando and Front Line), but I do have memories of playing the original arcade game at a Pizza Hut near me in my youth, and it’s hardware controls are truly iconic. So when I was able to source an arcade original, SNK/Seimitsu LS-30 joystick, I knew that I had to build an Ikari Warriors themed controller; the only question was do I build it for the 7800, or the NES. As the NES has ports of all three Ikari Warriors games (I, II, & III), as well as a port of SNK’s Guerrilla War, I figured I would build this one for the NES. So built into a beefed-up, and weighted, Hammond Mfg. powdered-coated aluminum sloped-top 14" x 8.25" enclosure, it features: ** Seimitsu LS-30 joystick (arcade original) ** Ultimarc GoldLeaf push-buttons (yellow) ** Nintendo control pad PCB w/ Cable, and rear mounted cord cleats for cable management ** Ikari Warriors arcade cabinet inspired CPO I think it came out pretty good, and its a nice change to wire an easy one like this one, versus some of the others I've made here in the past. Enjoy!
  13. That of course does not factor in at all, the costs associated with producing/selling a physical cartridge, assuming that were the option (versus selling the digital ROM). I don't know what cartridge casings, PCBs, chips, labels, boxes and manuals...if applicable, cost to procure and/or have manufactured, but I'm pretty sure they're not $0.00. Then of course there is the ordering, receiving, assembly, testing, and shipping times to account for, unless one considers their time "worthless" (I know I don't). As a guess (as I have no actual idea), if a $50 cart costs $30 to produce, then a profit of $20 per cart, would require a quantity of 250 copies to be sold to recoup a $5000 investment, not 100. If the cost is closer to $40 per cart, producing a profit of $10 per cart, that scenario would require a quantity of 500 copies be sold, to recoup a $5000 investment. Just remember "in business, it all has to make dollars and sense."
  14. The same game...or a game that someone might want to play...just stirrin' the pot. 😀
  15. And does that also fix the problem with Qix and Vanguard, or has that issue been ignored?
  16. Did you verify that your original Hand Controller only has 7 wires populated at the cable/connector? There are/were some with all 9. And was this using only the original 18" coiled cord...with no extension cable?
  17. Didn't the seller mention here that in addition to the proto-PCB, the buyer was also getting a flash-drive with the dumped ROMS...well now that it's sold..."leak" the ROMS that were on the flash drive.
  18. ...lord, that bad! But let's not bad mouth all Xonox titles, It's Only Rock 'N Roll is awesome...I love that game, although I never do very good at it.
  19. They're pretty simple to make, just a few wires to connect to the rear screw terminals with an arcade power supply: Far left (left of the drives), is the one I made a dozen or so year ago...still works, I use it to this day. I added the "fancy" ADAM label and On/Off switch on the front, but obviously if it was simply plugged into a power strip with a power switch, it could be powered on/off that way too. I think these cost about $30-$40 or so, then you just need an extension cord/cable for the incoming power cable, and the cable to the DE-9 connector on the side of the ADAM (which could be salvaged from an ADAM printer if you had one spare). There's no reason to pay crazy $200 for these 750+ watt PC power supply conversions, I see listed around.
  20. I was just joking that the direct PayPal down-payment link, was sent to my PayPal account, and I was stealing the money.
  21. Thanks for the free $50...sucker! J/K, couldn't resist.
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