doubledown

If you're playing with an Edladdin controller that was made/wired before the Pin 9 issue with the Phoenix was discovered, then that is most probably the problem. A wire connected to position 9 in the controller cable, which is thusly connected to Pin 9 at the Phoenix's controller port, but is not connected to anything internal in the controller, can cause "freezing" issues. As Swami said, there are a couple of ways to remedy this, and it has been discussed in great length in the CollectorVision Release thread, I would suggest reading through that thread for more details if you're interested. You can test/verify the problem, by trying to use a controller that doesn't have Pin 9 connected...most standard Hand Controllers, only have 7 pins (not #7 & #9) and should work fine. You could verify that you don't see a "shiny" metal socket inside the male plug end of a Hand Controller at positions 7 & 9, then if they're not there, try the game with that controller. If it doesn't "freeze", then that would mean that you Edladdin controller has these wires, and is what's causing your issue.

Do you have the latest Phoenix firmware installed? What sort of controller are you trying to use to play the game with?

...somebody's attempt to try to improve on perfection...apparently!?! Unless it was created for something other than the VCS/2600, as possibly evident by the round cable end connector, that I can see in the 2nd & 3rd pics...assuming that's part of this joystick.

I received these recently: If somebody wants to do us all a favor and program Phoenix for the ColecoVision...I'm happy to make good use of them. Don't make me build these for the 2600 port! 😁

Unless somebody's Facebook account has been disabled...and apparently can never get re-enabled...as there is apparently no way to contact Facebook, except to send Facebook a message through Facebook, to which you would need to have an active account on Facebook into which to log into...to send said message....to Facebook, on Facebook. It's a circular logic nightmare.

Pins #7 & #9 are only used for the encoders on "spinning" or "rotary" type controllers, Speed Roller on SAC, Steering Wheel on EM2, and Track-Ball on Roller Controller. Tying them together inside a controller, that doesn't have any of these, is supposed to be fine (no loss of features, and no issues on Phoenix or original CV/ADAM)...and I believe is what others have done. I make my own custom cables, so I simply no longer connect these wires at the cable connector end. I believe others have purchased a DE9 breakout type module/PCB, wherein they can disconnect the wiring right at the console where they plug it into. For a few who have bought controllers from me, before we knew of the issue, I have made short "extension" cables that have these wires disconnected.

That probably has to do with controller cable having sockets/wires connected at the plug end at positions #7 & #9, and not connected internally inside the controller; which is currently known to act as an antenna of sorts, picking up a transient interference. If this is the case, you can open up the controller, connect wires #7 & #9 to each other (and nothing else), and it should remedy the issue. There's more info about this in the CollectorVision Phoenix release thread. Additionally they are working on a fix/solution for this I believe. Yeah, I haven't had to use a "stock" Hand Controller in a long time....a long time. Plus I figure if you're going to make a custom controller for a game console (that isn't game specific), it should be a full-featured controller that has all of the features/buttons/options that the originals had; so that you don't need to use a secondary controller, or some other sort of adapter...or be limited to only being able to play some games, and not others. There are too many games in the CV library that need a lot more than keypad buttons #1 or #2...but I suppose it all depends on the games ones interested in playing, and at what skill levels. It seems like most of the folks who got any of my ball-knob modified Hand Controllers really seemed to like them. That is for those who aren't afraid to use them, and possibly diminish their collectible value. The small shaft extension is really the key, in addition to the comfort of the more conventional ball knob of course. Some others simply screwed a ball knob on top of the existing shaft as/is, but I found the extra little bit of height really makes a lot of difference.

I found those chairs sexually disturbing.

On most games you can. Frogger is 1 game I know of for sure (and if memory serves there are a few others), where only the controller plugged into port 1 can be used to select the number of players (keypad 1 or 2), gameplay speed (keypad 3 or 4), gameplay music (keypad 5 or 6), and to start the game (keypad *).

I would sincerely and completely disagree with this. Most Coleco published games have 4 skill levels per player option (1/2/3/4 & 5/6/7/8)...and those that are arcade ports, usually mention in the manual that options 3/7 are their approximate "arcade" difficulty skill selections, which then of course means that 1/5 are for very small children, 2/6 are for the small children after they've played the game for 5 minutes and have gotten bored with it, and 4/8 are for advanced players. With only having buttons mapped to 1/2/5 (if I understand the mapping correctly), you can't select skill levels 3 or 4 (7 or 8 for 2 players), which makes most games very boring...in my opinion.

Controller hacked software...I'm obviously intrigued. This better be good! 😄

I got a chance to take some resistance reading on my 5200 Space Dungeon digital controller today, which may help others. As mentioned previously, I use 6 potentiometers plus 4 resistors per joystick, which allows for maximum adjustability/compatibility with games and consoles. The resistors are installed, so that for instance, the horizontal center's potentiometer value, cannot be set lower than the left's potentiometer value (as the left value has to be lower than the center, as does the center's value have to be lower than the right's value, then the same applies to up/center/down). So plugged in, and using Pete's Test Cart, I go to, and use the numeric display screen, which is normally used for the Pokey adjustment I believe. When un-manipulated (centered), I adjust the center pots, so that the Hor/Ver readings are 112, then I hold the joystick left, and adjust the left pot until I get the value to bounce just above 1, then I hold the joystick right, and adjust the right pot until I get the value to bounce just under infinity. Then I repeat this for the vertical pots. Once these are set, they are set, and seem perfectly fine for all games...unless something is starting to adjust/break-down inside the console obviously. Then I disconnected the joystick cables, and took resistance value readings at the cable ends, where they plug into the console (which takes cable/wiring resistance into account), and these are the values that currently work perfectly on my console: Joystick 1 - P1 Port Left - 0.976k Hor Center - 270.7k Right - 554.5k Up - 0.108k Ver Center - 281.62k Down - 560.3k Joystick 2 - P2 Port Left - 1.000k Hor Center - 286.3k Right - 579.2k Up - 1.540K Vertical Center - 267.54k Down - 540.6k So as you can see, on my console at least, a 10k resistor isn't low enough to reach the full range of readability of the console, nor is 470k (nor even 500k) high enough to read the full range on the other end. I'm not saying that you absolutely have to go this low/high, but I think when people have issues with "some certain few games don't work with my digital controller", I believe the reason is that their fixed resistance values aren't perfect for their console (and presumably not low/high enough for full range). Additionally I never use Missile Command and it's on-screen cursor for "centering" my controller. When I set it to center at 112s on the Pokey Adjust screen on Pete's Test Cart, the on-screen cursors are usually a little high/left of center...but it works for every game that doesn't employ absolute analog joystick control. And I know that with my setup/wiring scheme, I don't have to re-tune the pots for each individual game. Once I set them for the console, I may have to start a game, then manipulate the joystick left/right & up/down a couple of times for the game to "calibrate" to it, but that's it. So I hope this info can help somebody/anybody with their own digital 5200 controller build.

If games like Qix and Vanguard don't work with the RetroGameBoyz joystick controller (as shown/mentioned in the video), then there is obviously an issue/deficiency with the internal circuitry/wiring (or could be a problem with the console).

I believe there were at least 3 different cartridge changers for the 2600. Two that sat next to the console, one that kind of mounted over the top back switch panel. Somehow as a kid who grew up with a 2600, I had never heard of or saw any of these when I was a kid.

Out of curiosity, what do you use for a keypad with this Genesis controller?

I would be curious, regarding those who have & will inevitably reply with "original Hand Controller" as their answer...how original, is the original Hand Controller that you're using? Remember that an original Hand Controller has a very short joystick shaft, a mushroom/disc knob, and an 18" (when retracted) coiled cord. Any deviation from this (joystick shaft extension, ball knob mod, straight wire cable mod, extension cable)...and it's not an original Hand Controller. Just sayin'...so who's really using an "original Hand Controller?"

Not originally, somebody converted the 5200 (and only ever official) version at some point. And seeing as that I had already built a Robotron: 2084 themed controller for the 8-bit / 7800, I wanted to make something different and appropriate/unique for the 5200.

Or just build yourself a proper controller for the 5200...and then enjoy the 5200: 🙂

Depending on how the video mods were done...it is possible that the Atari Expansion Module won't function with them. Did the Module work with these video mods once, now it no longer works, or did it work with your console before the video mods, and now with the mods installed it doesn't work? Does your console still have the original RF output...check the Module with that output, if it does.

2010: The Graphic Action Game is also a good puzzle/race against the clock game...but seriously, read the manual if you attempt to play it.

This should be in the main ColecoVision/Adam section, not the CollectorVision section. You may get more help there.

It would have to for Paddles to work with it.

I'm not sure what "post" you're talking about, but the OP never mentioned "verticalness" of the CX-52. He mentions their reliability, but not anything regarding "verticalness". If by "well published", you mean that YOU have posted it probably 100 times, with no one inquiring about it or reacting to it...then yes I'd agree that it's "well published." I stand by my reply. No...a Paddle controller is perfect for games like Warlords, Super Breakout and Kaboom!...I'm not familiar with Kabion...so I can't speak to that game. An analog joystick may "work" for games that were programmed for Paddle controllers...but they are a far cry from perfect. There is no Atari collection for the 5200...there are individual games for the 5200...which are original games, meant to be played with the controllers they were intended to be played with. This comment has no bearing on this topic...once again.

@tripletopper, completely off topic, and all about your Sinister Stick, that nobody but you cares about...for the bazilliointh time here on AA. I'm not sure if you read the first post in this thread, but the OP's question was about people's thoughts and/or opinions, of the 5200's controllers, the CX-52. No where in your long-keyed post, do you provide your review or opinion or insight regarding the CX-52...but you do, for the bazillionth time here on AA, talk about ambidexterity in controllers...that again, nobody but you cares about. Please give it a rest, and if you're going to post a reply in someone's thread, try to keep it on topic.

Like most have said, the ColecoVision is a great system, and has a bunch of great games...all of which look/play better than their 2600/Intellivision counterparts, when applicable. Like any piece of electronics that is pushing 38 years old, there can be issues with the original hardware, including the controllers. There are persons that can refurbish/upgrade your hardware if needed (I used to, years ago, others do currently), and then there are also those who can straight up sell you a complete refurbished/upgraded unit. As said by most, the AtariMax cart is pretty much the way to go for games, which can/will save you both money and clutter in the long run...assuming you're not into the "collecting" aspect of it...and are only interested in playing the games. But note, that some modern homebrews will require the Super Game Module (SGM) from OpcodeGames. Many people have issues with the original Hand Controllers and the Super Action Controllers. Most issues stem from them being old, and simply not working 100% properly...which are of course normally repairable. Others flat out find them non-ergonomic and/or uncomfortable. Several options are available with regards to controllers, from Atari 2600 controllers that will work with most games (that only require 1 button, and then the keypad is used from a controller plugged into Port 2, or plugged into Port 1 via a wye cable), to inexpensive gamepads made for the ColecoVision (but still lack a keypad, thus are not fully functional) that can be had on ebay, to full-function and true arcade controllers. Assume it's like any other hobby, you can get into it for a few dollars, or you can cash in your birthday bonds and go hog wild. The choice is yours.